oh crap

[tunnie]

on my project 2.0, the cam cover seemed very loose without this bolt, BUT.. felt OK with the tray clipped in, I'd have happily driven it.

I think I may have one of those bolts on my Donor car if you need one... free to a good home such as yours Tunnie

Sweet, cheers for that James.

Just out of interest James, did you project 2.0 have a gap were the nut was supposed to be? I.E a whole were crud could get in?

Like you i think the top clips will hold the cover nice and firm, its just that back plate. Tempted to WD40 it today, and try tomorrow for the best. IF it comes out then off to the scrappy to see if that facelift 2.0 wreck is still there...

Also just realised supposed to be meeting old friends on saturday.

If i can get it out tomorrow then great, i'll replace it. However if its going to be a git, i think i will leave it re-assemble, and then take it for a good hard run on Friday. I mean a really hard run, make sure that plate won't become loose, also make sure the new coolant does its job  

Then friday afternoon pop the cover off again, and check the plate and condition behind there.

[JamesV6CDX]

Just be confident that it's all secure before driving it....

I don't want to be posting you my spare 4-pot head because you've bent all your valves

[tunnie]

Just be confident that it's all secure before driving it....

I don't want to be posting you my spare 4-pot head because you've bent all your valves

Thats what i was worred about, however it all seams solid, tried to move it and its rock soild. Following the plate to the edges it seams to be secure all around.

Trouble is 2.2's are so noisey when cold it will be hard to tell if its loose! So will let it go to normal idle before going off, then a local run to make sure its all ok.

[TheBoy]

the cam sensor forks around this bolt - will it be secure enough without it??

[tunnie]

the cam sensor forks around this bolt - will it be secure enough without it??

With the small torx screw up the top holding it, it should be secure.

Like you i'd like to get it out, but i don't do well with drills...

[TheBoy]

the cam sensor forks around this bolt - will it be secure enough without it??

With the small torx screw up the top holding it, it should be secure.

Like you i'd like to get it out, but i don't do well with drills...

apart from single securing bolt, what else stops it rotating?

[tunnie]

the cam sensor forks around this bolt - will it be secure enough without it??

With the small torx screw up the top holding it, it should be secure.

Like you i'd like to get it out, but i don't do well with drills...

apart from single securing bolt, what else stops it rotating?

Got a point there  

Not sure, think thats the only one. There is nothing else apart from when its loose without the torx screw it does not rotate very far. The slot for sensor restricts it.

[Taxi_Driver]

the cam sensor forks around this bolt - will it be secure enough without it??

With the small torx screw up the top holding it, it should be secure.

Like you i'd like to get it out, but i don't do well with drills...

apart from single securing bolt, what else stops it rotating?

just the single bolt and the way its slotted in......was on mine  

[tunnie]

yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...

It shouldn't move with that torx in.

[TheBoy]

yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...

It shouldn't move with that torx in.

FFS do not overtighten torx to compensate. You really will be Donald Ducked then....

[tunnie]

yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...

It shouldn't move with that torx in.

FFS do not overtighten torx to compensate. You really will be Donald Ducked then....

Point taken  

I'll just do it firmly, however I will have a go at getting that old one out!

[TheBoy]

yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...

It shouldn't move with that torx in.

FFS do not overtighten torx to compensate. You really will be Donald Ducked then....

Point taken  

I'll just do it firmly, however I will have a go at getting that old one out!

try and get some penetrating oil in there tonight (wd40). dont get it on belt or tensioners etc...

[tunnie]

yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...

It shouldn't move with that torx in.

FFS do not overtighten torx to compensate. You really will be Donald Ducked then....

Point taken  

I'll just do it firmly, however I will have a go at getting that old one out!

try and get some penetrating oil in there tonight (wd40). dont get it on belt or tensioners etc...

Will do..

I am only going to try it with the plyers, no hitting or anything. I figure if its going to come out, it will with WD40 and those plyers.

[Taxi_Driver]

yeah TB means the fat bolt underneath where the odd V at the bottom of the sensor goes over the bolt...

It shouldn't move with that torx in.

FFS do not overtighten torx to compensate. You really will be Donald Ducked then....

Point taken  

I'll just do it firmly, however I will have a go at getting that old one out!

If your got the new cam sensor in Tunnie....just tighten up the bolt holding it in and give it a slight tighten(tweak) when it goes tight....it aint going nowhere.....so be gently with it  

[Chopsdad]

Both of the things I was gonna suggest have been offered up by Omegatoy.  Dremmel to cut slot would be far easier than a chisel and would cause less damage when it flies off the bolt/screw thing.

Mole grips would be a better option than pliers if you can lock them on but doesn't sound like there's enough to grab on too.

What about a local garage/engineering firm welding on another bolt that you can use your new tools to extract when cool.

Good luck with leaving it alone and cover the hole to prevent any crap getting in