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[Marks DTM Calib]

Try pins 5 and 6 if 4 and 6 dont work (in theory both pin 4 and 5 are 0V)

[hol666]

  ok, thankyou for your suggestions, I know it should work but it doesn't unfortunately!

tried shorting both 4 & 6 and 5 & 6 and then turning on ignition, first time the ignition lights came on and when out. This I assume is the test as per normal, each time after this, every time I turned on the ignition, nothing happened, no lights and definately no eml flashing. :-/

Incidentely, on mine, pins 1 & 2 are blank pin 3 does have a contact in it?  I'll take a picture later and post it?



taken with mobile so crap quality, top is left, bottom is right.

[hol666]

link for pic of the plug.

http://www.mypicshare.com/mizcivgqpic.html

am sure/certain I used  the correct pins, so guess I'll try the coolant sensor and a general clean-up of pipes etc...

[Marks DTM Calib]

Can you pop the instrument panel out to make sure somebody has not connected the ECU light to any otehr check light....

For info, the pinout is as follows;

[hol666]

thanks for that!  One thing the AA guy said was emissions??  I guess this would put up the eml permanently, so today I've under the bonnet and the breathers whilst not blocked completely, do need cleaning/replacing, so I'll do that.  Plus, the icv and throttle body are, bluntly, filthy!  Very ashamed I've let this happen!  Also, coolant sensor was mentioned, do you think it would be worth replacing it, can't be that expensive?

Mark

as for any other bulb, don't think so, as when I turn the ignition on, it comes on and then off after a couple of seconds.  As for getting the codes, I've triple checked exactly which pins to use and get nothing?

[TheBoy]

as for any other bulb, don't think so, as when I turn the ignition on, it comes on and then off after a couple of seconds.  As for getting the codes, I've triple checked exactly which pins to use and get nothing?

An old trick is to wire in with ABS light etc, so that it doesn't show engine errors, hence why M_DTM asked.  Check the EML is independent of other dash lights

[hol666]

ok, thats fair enough, I'll check tomorrow.  some bloody week off work I'm having!!  

would it be actually wired behind the dash itself? ie;- a couple of fly leads from bulb to bulb?

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yes....seen it to many times before....

[hol666]

ok, I'll certainly check this out in the morning and let you all know the outcome.  TBH I hope this is the case rather than not being able to read any codes fullstop.  I'd rather know than not, mind you I've owned her for 3 years now and this is the first time the light has come on, so kinda a little unsure, but will check anyway!  Many thanks.

[hol666]

whilst stripping down the top parts of the engine this morning, I popped open the wiring panel which runs down the side of the rocker cover and above the inlet manifold and found this

http://www.mypicshare.com/pxsxwunjpic.html

and a close up

http://www.mypicshare.com/ljyvtdfdpic.html

the wire is brown with a green tracer, damned if I can find what it is in the haynes manual, although it does go to the ecu?  

[Kevin Wood]

Ouch! That doesn't look too good. Good job you spotted it!

Are there any fuses blown in the engine bay or cabin fuse boxes? That looks bad enough to blow a fuse(!) and that might point to the circuit at fault. Failing that can you follow the wire down the loom until you find where it terminates?

I'm guessing it's only heading for the front of the engine so it'll probably be something related to EGR, air injection, knock sensors, multiram, etc.

Kevin

[hol666]

pretty certain no fuses gone, but when the engine originally stopped, after I stopped and turned off the ignition.  I popped the bonnet and saw a small whiff of smoke coming from the area.  didn't bother to investigate as the aa guy said it was down to the cat being blocked and was probably some fumes escaping? last time I trust them!

the lead def goes to ecu but will now trace back, I'm thinking odds on to the diagnostic port?

[Kevin Wood]

pretty certain no fuses gone

With hindsight, I'm not surprised. The wire gave way before the fuse by the look of it.

the lead def goes to ecu but will now trace back, I'm thinking odds on to the diagnostic port?

I doubt it would be routed around the engine in that case. It's almost certainly to an ancillary on the front of the engine, IMO. My guess is that something (egr / air injection valve, etc?) failed with a short circuit and burnt the wire out. If it's directly powered by the ECU it's possible it has damaged the ECU itself or other wiring around it, causing the paperclip test to fail.

That's just a theory though. Best to find out the facts, I.E. what was connected to the wire.

If you can't follow the wire all the way round the front of the engine I'd try looking at the wires entering the plugs on the engine ancillaries and see if one of them has a wire that matches the colour code of the burnt wire.

Kevin

[hol666]

looks like the brown/green wire goes to the purple relay in the ancillary fuse box under the bonnet.  I believe this to be something to do with the secondary air pump according to what I can decipher from the haynes wiring diagram  :-/

will I be safe to splice and reattach the busted wires?

[Kevin Wood]

If it's the secondary air pump I probably wouldn't bother reconnecting it. It's purely to speed up cat warmup and I understand they are prone to failing. You do need to disconnect that wire from the relay end and remove as much as possible of it from the length of the loom. It will have got that hot over its' entire length (probably hotter where it's wrapped tightly) and who knows what other damage it's done to the loom. I really would try to inspect the loom over the whole length of that wire because it may well be causing other issues if it's melted the insulation on an adjacent wire.

Failing that, try and get hold of an engine loom from a scrap car and replace the lot for peace of mind, remembering not to reconnect the air pump.

Kevin