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[jonny2112]

I'm trying to fit cruise control and so far have done what I imagined would be the hard bits (WRONG!) - the actuator and stalk. I've located the clutch switch wiring and indeed the brake switch, but can I get the bu**er out? Not on your life. Between trying to hold the pedal down, and keep the sleeve out from the latch end, I can't even 'feel' where the catches are to release them.
Any advice on what I thought would be a simple task, and perhaps is when you know how  , would be greatly appreciated.

[Chopsdad]

Why do you want to remove the brake switch?  Stalk, actuator, brake and clutch switch are all you need.

If it's broken, there should be two lugs on the end opposite to the plunger that you would need to depress with a screwdriver to release, but you'd see them on the new one :-/

The plunger should not be pressed into the body of the switch as it works on a ratchet system, set by the pedal travel.  So if you have both switches in place, try pulling both plungers out as far as they will go to reset the unit.

If I've got the wrong end of the stick just let me know

[jonny2112]

The existing brake switch has only the two pins, whereas the 'new' one for cruise has four, albeit it seems a slightly different shape. My wrists are cut to shreds by the heater duct in that area. I'm tempted just to reconnect the brake switch cable, add the clutch switch and take it for a drive to see if the cruise is actually working. I'm just worried that if I dont use the new brake switch then braking will not disengage the cruise and who knows what could happen then??

On the plus side, whilst contemplating this bu**er I changed the steering idler. Good times. Got to take it for another 4 wheel alignment now though. Bad times.  :-/

[JasonH]

I think I can help.

First I guess you're removing the 2 pin brake switch in order to fit the 4 pin version. If you already have the 4 pin version leave it alone.

Anyway as Chopsdad said the plunger works on a ratchet system, but you need to pull it out. That means pulling quite hard on the inner mushroom. It will give and pull out perhaps 1cm to its stop. You can then pull the sleeve up to the top. From there you can push in the tabs at the side and remove the switch.

If you don't get the plunger fully extended the rest all stays locked in place.

[JasonH]

Without the extra 2 wires on the brake switch the cruise won't engage - well it shouldn't.....

[jonny2112]

Thanks guys - sorted!
I knew about the sleeve thing round the plunger, but what I didn't know was that the plunger was not already fully extended! I 'forced' it out a bit more, adjusted the sleeve and hey presto!
Unfortunately, after all that, the 'new' switch doesn't fit  

[JasonH]

The brake pedal switch for cruise (I think post 98) certainly facelifts is:

9149766

What have you got?

[JasonH]

I may be wrong: had a bit of a look and it appears that models with cruise had a 2 wire brake switch before 98 (except for the 3.0 models).

So my theory is that early cruise modules may be able to work with the 2 wire brake switch. Which explains why cruise modules have inputs from the brake lamp circuit as well as the brake switch.

Or, of course, you may have the wrong part!

That 9149766 should be the part you need (it was used pre-98 on the 3.0 models as well as all models after 98 with cruise).

Good luck.

[jonathanh]

when I fitted cruise, as a temporary bodge I bridged out the two cruise terminals on the brake multiplug.  The brake switch is a press to make switch on the brake lights and a press to break switch for the cruise feed.  Therefore if you do not have the terminals bridged cruise will not engage.

The cruise module takes a feed from BOTH the brake circuit and the seperate cruise 'disengage' brake curcuit.

My guess is that if you bridge these terminals then it will still work AND disengage on brake.  Only way is to give it a try....

[Marks DTM Calib]

And you don't need the alignment done after changing the idler....it has a VERY minimal effect on the geometry

[jonny2112]

And you don't need the alignment done after changing the idler....it has a VERY minimal effect on the geometry

Sorry Mark, should have said that the wishbones were done on Tuesday as well, and that's why the alignment will need done, not just for the idler.
With regard to the new switch I got it from a breaker via the net, along with the actuator, but I've a feeling the switch is actually from a Vectra, as the way it fits into the aperture is completely different from the switch I removed. it looks like it may be a twist fit type, rather than a straight forward push fit.