Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[wastedperfection]

Hi,

Is the 3.2 a much better engine than the 3.0 or is it just an overbored 3.0?

Also , is it possible to do a manual conversion? , if so is it just a case of replacing the pedal box with a manual one, different clocks and the obvious gearstick where the auto stick is?

Or is there alot of wiring that would need to be sorted?


Matt

[Matchless]

If you can acquire a manual 3.0 as the donor it is do-able.
Need R28 box, pedal box, hydraulic pipes, flywheel, new crank spigot bearing, propshaft and diff plus the bit of fake wood that sits behind the manual gear stick.

[sounds2k]

I believe the ECU needs a wire cut or joined somewhere to signify it's manual too - might also need reprogramming with tech2?

[Andy B]

Hi,

Is the 3.2 a much better engine than the 3.0 or is it just an overbored 3.0?

Also , is it possible to do a manual conversion? , if so is it just a case of replacing the pedal box with a manual one, different clocks and the obvious gearstick where the auto stick is?

Or is there alot of wiring that would need to be sorted?


Matt

I've no idea what would be involved in the conversion (manuals have too many pedals for me   ) but you might find the bits you're after here although the listing is a little short on detail.

[TheBoy]

Some of the ECU's would want to know, and hence be recoded via Tech2. Depending on cars age, you may get away with grounding a wire, but the later ones use CAN protocols to chat amongst themselves (though no Omegas have CAN diagnostics)

[Marks DTM Calib]

It would appear that you wont need the diff on a 3.0 auto to manual conversion....

[Paul M]

I know someone who has done this conversion on a 3.0, I'd imagine it's much the same on a 3.2. If you are going to go ahead with it I can ask him what's involved and if there are any pitfalls etc. He seemed to imply it was reasonably straightforward when I asked about it.

[wastedperfection]

Hi Paul,

That would be great as i do want to buy a 3.2 and put the manual conversion.

Can i just ask , is the 3.2 engine just the same as the 3.0 but with the added displacement or is it a new engine

Regards

Matt

[Marks DTM Calib]

Its pretty much the same.....

Engine - X30XE
No Of Cylinders - 6
Configuration - V6
Displacement - 2960
Bore (mm) - 86
Stroke (mm) - 85
Power KW/RPM - 155/6000
Torque Nm/rpm - 270/3400
Compression ratio - 10.8:1
Engine management - Mot M2.8.1 then M2.8.3 in 2000 approx
Idle speed - 450-1030
Max rpm - 6600
Firing order - 1-2-3-4-5-6

Engine - Y32SE
No Of Cylinders - 6
Configuration - V6
Displacement - 3175
Bore (mm) - 87.5
Stroke (mm) - 88
Power KW/RPM - 160/6000
Torque Nm/rpm - 290/3400
Compression ratio - 10:1
Engine management - Mot M3.1.1
Idle speed - 450-1030
Max rpm - 6600
Firing order - 1-2-3-4-5-6

As you can see from above, the bore and stroke were slightly increased and the compression ratio lowered.

The block is the same casting as are the heads.......the crank is a billet steel affair on the 3.2 so stronger than the 3.0.

The 3.2 had a later EFI system so uses coil per plug and multi lambda controls to help the emissions plus drive by wire.....

There was a slight change to the cambelt layout on the later 3.2/2.6 engines to.

[Paul M]

Hi Paul,

That would be great as i do want to buy a 3.2 and put the manual conversion.

Cool I should see him tomorrow so will ask then.

[Paul M]

OK he said it's basically straightforward, everything is more or less plug and play if you have a donor car to take the pedal box and clutch hydraulics from, and obviously the gearbox and clutch itself. The only issue they had afterwards is the dashboard displays "automatic gearbox" to indicate a fault, whereas the automatic gearbox has actually found it's rightful home in the skip . That can very easily be fixed with a tech2 though, they just haven't got round to it yet (you can press the button on the stalk to cancel the warning, just like a bulb warning).

Good luck you should end up with a cracking car in the end

[Marks DTM Calib]

OK he said it's basically straightforward, everything is more or less plug and play if you have a donor car to take the pedal box and clutch hydraulics from, and obviously the gearbox and clutch itself. The only issue they had afterwards is the dashboard displays "automatic gearbox" to indicate a fault, whereas the automatic gearbox has actually found it's rightful home in the skip . That can very easily be fixed with a tech2 though, they just haven't got round to it yet (you can press the button on the stalk to cancel the warning, just like a bulb warning).

Good luck you should end up with a cracking car in the end

That can be got round by shorting out a pin on the MID.

[wastedperfection]

Cheers for the replies

Is it a different set of clocks for the automatic?

If so couldnt i just put a set of manual clocks in?


Matt

[Marks DTM Calib]

No, clocks etc are the same.

The MID is programmed slightly differently but, easily sorted.

There is also a wire to ground on the engine loom to tell it that its a manual...

Nothing difficult.

[TheBoy]

There is also a wire to ground on the engine loom to tell it that its a manual...

Nothing difficult.

Does that include the Motronic 3.1.1 ECUs, which normally use CAN to talk to gearbox?