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[holey head]

hi again.
cam and crank sensor problems are known to be related. i.e one playing up sending wrong signals to ecu makes other behave stupidly. yo've been messing about with oscilloscopes and measuring the resitance when i believe that crank sensor comes with a wiring loom and plug and modded cam sensor comes with a wiring loom as well. now surely for the sake of the say £80 i will cost you for both sensors you might aswell go bythem and fit them. there is obviously a fault with one of them. have you actually changed either? from what i can remember of this thread you've changed cam sensor i believe if not change it then change crank sensor. it's ok thinking that its ok but thinking and knowing are two different things. it may look ok and you might get decent resitance but, that when there is no current. cables behave differently when they have a current flowing through them to when they are idle and nothing flowing through them. Change sensors then if still a problem at least you know the sensors are ok and the aren't going to need replacing for quite a while. DON'T FORGET FIT GENUINE MODDED CAM SENSOR, CHEAPO ECRAP ONES DONT TEND TO WORK AS I FOUND OUT!!!

[magnul]

I have replaced cam sensor twice (first cheapo one from ebay, then genuine modded) and crank sensor once. There's obviously still a chance that I've gotten faulty sensors, but that will still be the chance if I change the once more.
I haven't tested with oscilloscope yet. I will probably take me a few hours to learn its use, and I'm not quite sure what to look for.

I'm still curious about what:
1) Cranking at WOT then start normally
2) Leaving ignition on for 30secs prior to cranking
would tell me.
Leaving ignition on prior to starting improves cold starting. Did that before EML appeared also.

[Grumpy]

I'm still curious about what:
1) Cranking at WOT then start normally

Cranking on a Wide Open Throttle
would close off the injectors and clear any flooding from your
engine due to leaky injectors prior to starting normally.

2) Leaving ignition on for 30secs prior to cranking

This would give the fuel pump time to pressurise the fuel rail, prior to starting,
to test for a leaky pressure relief valve.

These 2 tests are more for diagnosing starting faults than your Crank/Cam
sensor faults.

[magnul]

This was my interpretation of the tests as well, that's why I didn't understand why it was sensor related.
As the car is running on ethanol, it is very sensitive to cold starts (needs heavy enrichment). I'm in the process of increasing the gasoline percentage to check if starting problems persist, but it will take some time as I only drive a few km a day.
When cold starting the car fires briefly and appears to run on less than 4 cylinders. After a couple attempts it starts just fine.

Edit: Is it normal that the fuel rail pressure drops after a few hours with engine off? I've noticed when depressurising the system (for fuel filter change) that there's hardly no pressure when engine has been off for a few hours, whereas the pressure is more than sufficient to squirt in my eyes when engine was running a few minutes earlier..