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[JamesV6CDX]

Having followed Mark's "test" in another thread, I am convinced my clutch plate is sticking.

I just went out to the car, and started it in neautral. Pressed the clutch pedal, and it didn't want to engage first. So I turned the engine off, and then selected third gear (to lock the input shaft) and re-started the engine.

After that, I could select any gear I wanted as smooth as silk. Do you all concur that the clutch is dragging?

If so, I need to know what's involved in changing the clutch, on the V6 Omega. If I'm going to do it, I may as well do it now, because I won't want to be crawling under there when the horrible winter gets here!

Points I am a bit confused about:

1) Linkage - I can't see any. I presume there is no linkage as such, and that the gearstick basically goes straight from the box, up into the car? How do I detach this, to pull the box away?

2) Hydraulics - I've only ever changed cable clutches, where there is a cable to remove from the gearbox, that pulls the fork to push the release bearing against the pressure plate. How does the hydraulic setup work? What do I have to remove/reattach? Also, how best to bleed it, given that I'll probably be doing the job on my own?

3) Clutch alignment. Previously, I have always used a draper alignment tool, to secure the friction plate to the pressure plate, and then bolt it to the flywheel. I presume this is still the same procedure for the Omega clutch?

4) Apart from obvious contamination/damage, what do I need to check the flywheel for? should I clean it, and what's best to use?

I've done loads of Meega autoboxes, but never a manual.

I would really appreciate some detailed answers, for some silly reason I don't feel entirely confident....

[The Barge Captain]

I have assisted JasonH in changing his clutch.  There is a linkage on the top of the box I think, bit fiddly though.  Hydraulics - use easibleed kit.  I've usually just gived the flywheel - asssuming that it doesn't need skimming a wipe over with meths.
HTH mate.

[JasonH]

I'm not sure I removed the linkage the correct way. It was very tidy but also fiddly. There is a pin with a clip that attaches the gear stick mechanism to the selector shaft on the box. Remove the clip and push the pin up through the hole and out.

I've seen a lot of manual boxes dropped out with the gear stick attached. Probably the easiest but you have extra height and a gear knob etc. to be careful of.

Clutch alignment - pretty easy to do by eye. You can just look through and check it's centred.

Hydraulics - there's a connection behind the brake fluid reservoir clipped to the bulkhead (green clip on mine). Pull out the wire spring clip and it separates. Some brake fluid will leak out. (The plastic clip to the bulkhead will probably break.)

When finished you need to do a reverse pressure bleed with an Eazibleed - fairly straightforward.

Flywheel - see how much movement inner to outer you get when you try to rotate it (make sure you turn it the right way). Should be a bit but not be sloppy. Couple of cm on the outer edge will probably be OK.

I've got a spare (used) gearbox, clutch and flywheel you can take a look at if you're in Bristol.

[JasonH]

Been out and taken some pictures:

The hydraulic hose to the gearbox. Get a small screwdriver under the clip pointed to by the arrow and pop it out. The joint then just pulls apart. Note that the hose is hanging loose in this picture the joint is actually quite high up behind the engine.



The point where I detached my gearbox from the gearstick gubbins. Bit fiddly to get the pin back in though.

[JamesV6CDX]

Jason, you're a star, that's a lot clearer.

One more question, what about the release bearing?

[Kevin Wood]

So, your gearbox removal fettish hasn't been cured?  

Had the car been standing for a while before you bought it?

Just wondering if it's worth giving it a little longer before pulling it apart? If it's had a period of standing there may be a little corrosion on the flywheel / pressure plate which may well wear off.

Do you get any juddering when pulling away?
Do you know how many miles the current clutch has done?

If the release bearing is shot you may get additional noise when pressing the pedal. TBH I'd see how the bearing feels when you've got access to it. It should turn smoothly and freely. If it's graunchy or spins as if there's no grease left in it, get a new one.

Brake cleaner or meths is probably best for cleaning up the flywheel and clutch pressure plate. Apply the same criteria as brake disks. The surface should be reasonably smooth and free of scoring.

While you're there check the splines on the gearbox input shaft are in good condition and that the clutch plate slides freely on them. A little copper grease may be good here but don't use any more than necessary in case it contaminates the clutch.

Check the spigot on the end of the gearbox shaft is free from scoring and, if it were me, I'd change the spigot bearing in the end of the crank as these can contribute to a dragging clutch and only cost a few quid. They can be a pain to remove, though.

Obviously any leaks from the crank rear oil seal or gearbox input shaft will contaminate the clutch so they need to be rectified if evident.

Kevin

[JamesV6CDX]

So, your gearbox removal fettish hasn't been cured?  

Had the car been standing for a while before you bought it?

Just wondering if it's worth giving it a little longer before pulling it apart? If it's had a period of standing there may be a little corrosion on the flywheel / pressure plate which may well wear off.

Do you get any juddering when pulling away?
Do you know how many miles the current clutch has done?

If the release bearing is shot you may get additional noise when pressing the pedal. TBH I'd see how the bearing feels when you've got access to it. It should turn smoothly and freely. If it's graunchy or spins as if there's no grease left in it, get a new one.

Brake cleaner or meths is probably best for cleaning up the flywheel and clutch pressure plate. Apply the same criteria as brake disks. The surface should be reasonably smooth and free of scoring.

While you're there check the splines on the gearbox input shaft are in good condition and that the clutch plate slides freely on them. A little copper grease may be good here but don't use any more than necessary in case it contaminates the clutch.

Check the spigot on the end of the gearbox shaft is free from scoring and, if it were me, I'd change the spigot bearing in the end of the crank as these can contribute to a dragging clutch and only cost a few quid. They can be a pain to remove, though.

Obviously any leaks from the crank rear oil seal or gearbox input shaft will contaminate the clutch so they need to be rectified if evident.

Kevin

It's not been stood at all, it's been in regular use.

Steve is very honest and told me at the time I bought her that this issue has been there for a long time, but has never got any worse.

I don't think it's got any worse in my ownership either, but you know me, I'm a perfectionist! Especially considering I've never owned a car this nice in my life, I want to keep it tip-top, even if it involves a few quid and some scratched knuckles

The only real issue is that the clutch drags a tad when cold... when warm (or when it's been used for a while) it's absolutely fine.

I'm not in a big rush to change it.. my only logic was, if I'm going to do it, it may be wise to act sooner rather than later, so I don't end up doing it in the snow  

[Marks DTM Calib]

Do NOT use copper slip on the splines unless you want trouble.....the splines need to be clean and dry or the dust from the clutch sticks to them and then you realy do get a sticking clutch.

So, front pipes off and prop disconnected and cable tied out the way.

Drain the clutch fluid out by simply opening the bleed nipple until it stops running.

For the shifter mechanism, you remove two bolts where the linkage plate attaches to the rear of the box and then pop the pin out shown in the above pics. This way the linkage etc stays put and you dont have to re-align anything when re-fitting.

Disconnect the reverse switch wiring and the quick release hydraulic coupling (again as shown above).

Support the box on a jack, the centre of gravity is towards the rear and undo the main mounting bolts (the same as for an auto), slide it rearwards and it should come out.

Check the clutch assembly etc, clean the flywheel and plate if re-fitting and re-assemble ensuring the plate is central (you can do this by eye on this setup because with the gearbox out there is loads of room)

Remember to pressure fill the clutch hydraulic system by forcing fluid in through the bleed nipple with an easibleed.

Might have missed a few bits but, thats pretty much it.....

[JasonH]

The release bearing is a like a doughnut around the input shaft. Just slides off.

I's strongly recommend stripping it down before ordering any parts. I bought a new clutch kit and release bearing from buypartsby (genuine LUK part) in advance but frankly even after 115k miles most of the clutch had tonnes of life left in it. I just needed to replace the pressure plate because it had failed.

[JamesV6CDX]

Speaking to my local motor factors, he can supply the clutch friction plate and pressure plate (2 part kit) for £100 inc... but then wants another £100 for the release bearing  :-/

Anyone know if the BuyPartsBuy kit for £100+vat incs a bearing?

[sassanach]

isnt the release brg part of the slave cylinder?

[JamesV6CDX]

isnt the release brg part of the slave cylinder?

That's what the guy in the shop said, hence the cost...

[JamesV6CDX]

Also, Will - If you fancy lending a hand with that whizzy ramp of yours.. (so much easier!) I'll happily line your pockets with a few beer tokens

[sassanach]

who told you about the..............RAMP!!!!

[JamesV6CDX]

who told you about the..............RAMP!!!!

Er... I recall reading posts on the forum about a certain gearbox you changed.. I think the "R" word may have been mentioned in one of those threads

Anyhow, the offer stands good, pending your approval and availablilty