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Project Tractor engine swap

Started by TheBoy, 18 August 2007, 23:20:02

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Bo Bo

A few more pics;

Engine mod  :D



Ready for replacement



Shelter



Tunnie getting wet



Into the night

Where would we be without rhetorical questions?!

TheBoy

The diesel injector pump is from donor.  In fact, pretty much everthing is from donor, except:

A/C compressor and its mounting
PAS pump
Engine management and loom.
Grumpy old man

TheBoy

as i hinted yesterday, starter and alternator are fubar, so off with all the intake (fiddly on a tractor).  Replaced starter motor, took about 1.5hrs, due to being fiddly, and kept dropping spanner and having to retrieve from under car.  Started removing alternator. All unbolted, and belt off, but can I work out how to get it out? No room to slide backwards, no room forwards, not enough room upwards, and no room to drop (even with pas removed).  I hope the engine doesn't have to come out to do this  >:(
Grumpy old man

TheBoy

OK, so my toys came out the pram earlier - one or two of you may have noticed.

I reckon a good nights sleep, then reattempt alternator tomorrow night (if it stays dry - fat chance). Then just need to get the engine not so sound like a bag of nails and smoke like a 60-a-day man.

I am reluctant to touch the injector pump, as I know nothing about them, and have heard that you can really mess things up by setting it wrong.  The pump was presumably set right when it was in donor car, so why should it need adjusting now?
Grumpy old man

Baron Von Spongebob

Thats the way The Boy..Another day tomorrow and maybe you will see this problem sorted.. :y
[move]Is the world ready for me..[/move]

cem_devecioglu

#125
for the cars I dunno too much but for coding - in case of a hard problem its good idea to have a break and rest..



Golfbuddy

QuoteOK, so my toys came out the pram earlier - one or two of you may have noticed.

I reckon a good nights sleep, then reattempt alternator tomorrow night (if it stays dry - fat chance). Then just need to get the engine not so sound like a bag of nails and smoke like a 60-a-day man.

I am reluctant to touch the injector pump, as I know nothing about them, and have heard that you can really mess things up by setting it wrong.  The pump was presumably set right when it was in donor car, so why should it need adjusting now?

That's the spirit.  :) As a very wise man said on here the other night, 'It's just a lump of metal'. There is an answer you just have to find it.  :y
[move][size=24][color=#ff0000]        [/color][/size][/move]

JamesV6CDX

Hi Jaime,

I completely agree that a night off (or two), maybe a couple of stella's and doing something completely different is a huge help when things start to look a bit gloomy. You've worked your balls off on this car recently, so have a break from it.

When you return however, I would say that

1) The alternator must have some way of coming out, without engine removal. BMW are stupid, but not that stupid (one would hope!). Does your software give any indications as to the procedure?

2) The injector pump. you're right that, if you don't have experience in this area, you can cause more trouble than it's worth, by adjusting. I've done the job on Peugeots using the book of lies, but I certainly wouldn't take on the task light heartedly of doing this on a TD omega, specially with a BMW lump. I guess in answer to your question, the only way that the problem could be caused, is if the pump on the donor engine is different to the original, and requires a different set of ECU values/instructions to make the engine perform? I may be way off scale, but I know little about the modern TD.

3) I read that Omegatoy filled the diesel filter with diesel, and it started and ran on all six. Does it now run on all six using the fuel from your tank - or is there still an issue with delivery?

4) Is the Tech2 reporting any present engine management codes?

5) Is the air intake/turbo etc all connected securely and happily?

6) (and totally no offence intended here) - How much do you trust the seller that the engine is good?






RonaldMcBurger

Burn the rather thing! That car is the twin of the Elite LPG I had. Fix one thing and..............

familyman

Quoteas i hinted yesterday, starter and alternator are fubar, so off with all the intake (fiddly on a tractor).  Replaced starter motor, took about 1.5hrs, due to being fiddly, and kept dropping spanner and having to retrieve from under car.  Started removing alternator. All unbolted, and belt off, but can I work out how to get it out? No room to slide backwards, no room forwards, not enough room upwards, and no room to drop (even with pas removed).  I hope the engine doesn't have to come out to do this  >:(


Not worked on one of these but would removing engine mount work then jacking the lump over a bit. Like you said a good nights rest and you go back and see the problem staight away :y Usually a few cold tinnys while your working helps mellow the mood ;D
You came in that, your braver than i thought

Taxi_Driver

Quote
6) (and totally no offence intended here) - How much do you trust the seller that the engine is good?


Im sure the engine is sound.....but how come the starter and alternator are knackered if the engine has only stood for a month  :-/ Alternator maybe, if it got a good soaking on Saturday but the starter is buried isnt it?

TheBoy

QuoteBurn the rather thing! That car is the twin of the Elite LPG I had. Fix one thing and..............
I entirely agree.  If only I could find a can of petrol.
Grumpy old man

TheBoy

Got the effing useless alternator out, new one in.  Possible to remove from front if you disconnect all aircon pipes there. Ideally rad out, else you will likely damage the rad.  The guy who wrote the procedure in TIS (out the top) must have been smoking the same happy baccy as the stupid german who designed the engine.  Probably possible if you cut off battery tray, and reweld afterwards.

Refitting the aux belt, the bloody idler snapped, taking most of my knuckles with it  >:( - The rest of my knuckles went when I thumped the garage wall.  So, had to swap that over with my old engine.

Oil filter and air filter changed, fuel filter filled with diesel magic (filter was full, so fuel delivery OK when running).


Turn the key, same bloody problem - starter not disengaging once it fires. Wonder if thats what killed the alternator?  2 starters with same problem?  I am 99% certain I have wired the same as old one, but it doesn't match the book of lies...


So, jobs to do:
1) work out this starter issue
2) work out why it sounds like a bag of nails and smokes so bad.

Or:
1) buy 5 gallons of petrol and a match


May go off to Machine Mart at the weekend and treat myself to a new Sammy.

>:(
Grumpy old man

TheBoy

Anyone with a tractor check the connections to starter?  I have main feed straight from battery going to large middle bolt, the small wire going to the 8mm bolt, and 2 wires, medium thickness, to the 10mm bolt...
Grumpy old man

familyman

QuoteAnyone with a tractor check the connections to starter?  I have main feed straight from battery going to large middle bolt, the small wire going to the 8mm bolt, and 2 wires, medium thickness, to the 10mm bolt...

Could you not test wires to starter using 12v test lamp, one of the small wires sounds like a perm ign on feed..  When you key on ignition swtich to ign lamps on does the starter solenoid try to engage i.e clicking from solenoid if keyed on and off. If so remove wires one at a time till this stops then fit that that wire to the other post. Or! you have a sticking starter relay not disengaging starter once engine fired. Without wiring diagram hard to tell which one it is, but if you have tis send me pm a copy of wiring daigram of starter system and i'll check for you. also early and late pump wiring diags. Hope you don't mind if it sounds like i'm telling you to suck eggs but sometimes another pair of eyes and all that :)
You came in that, your braver than i thought