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[TheBoy]

Just try to get it out with kitchen roll, unless you have something you can suck it out with...

[Allenm]

OK, got as much oil out as possible, turned it on and got some revs.

took it round the block,  it was really holding back, but at high revs was pulling along,  low revs was a different matter, shuddering alot and stalling if the revs weren't there.  

Got it home and it immediately stalled, back to stalling when revs are applied.

Also one hell of alot of bubbling,  I presume this is normal as I emptied the block?

Hard to know what this means really - any thoughts, suggestions, things to try?

Cheers
Merv

[Marks DTM Calib]

Time for a compression test me thinks.....

[Allenm]

Time for a compression test me thinks.....

How do I do one of them?

Just been out looking at it again, and noticed that when I put the Multi-ram thing back, I had it pushed too far back and the 2 vacuum pipes have been cut through by the alternator pully. Managed to trim one back and make good, just going to tape the other up and see if that makes a difference.

[Allenm]

Just been out and made repairs to the vaccum pipe.  reseated the multi-ram in the correct position and fired her up again.

It is better...... but still no where near right  

Idle is very lumpy, although now alot quieter, if you then push it straight into full throttle, there is a noise like air being sucked in, a pause, then it revs up.   drop the revs, it struggles to not stall.  Low revs still cause the car to shudder like mad.

[cipher]

sounds like a vacuum leak.

Check all hoses for slipts cracks etc, or that they are all connected.

[JasonH]

A little late but here goes:

1. The smoke, looks just like penetrating oil or WD40 burning off the manifold - nothing to worry about.
2. The tappety sound (originally) - lets hope the tappets quieten down on their own.
3. The random thunk. Could be the aircon compressor trying to kick in. Try turning the A/C off.
4. The real rough running, proper tractor sound - the car's struggling to run, HT leads and oil likely to be the cause. Need to clean the plugs and HT leads properly.
5. A very flat battery sometimes doesn't help the idle because the alternator is loading the engine.
6. Need to sort all the vacuum leaks properly or the idle and running will be rubbish.

[Allenm]

Thanks for that.  
I have cleared as much as the oil out as I could with the help of a long transparent tube and suction then kitchen roll.

Have repaired the 2 broken vacuum pipes.

Still runs like crap.  

Given the history.. what is the next step guys?

[JasonH]

Sorry to harp on, but are all the plugs and caps nice and clean.

Old engine oil has tiny amounts of metal in it and the spark would much prefer to travel through a smear of oil than jump the spark plug gap. One plug misfiring could cause the idle you're seeing.

[cipher]

if it still running like crap, tehn I could do a compression test.

I once saw a Cav with a snaped belt (16SV Engine, Non interference)

Timed it back up, started it, ran like crap. Compression tested, was down on Cyl 3.

The piston had just clipped an exhaust valve. Bending it slightly, just enough to kill compression in the cylinder, but to look at, it was fine.

[Allenm]

I have just done the compression test.  It took me bloddy ages to get the sodding plugs out (namely number 6 the little bastard), so the result was that the engine was not at normal running temp.  Not sure if that matters.

The results are ....

Cylinder               Compression
    1                      20 Bar / 290 PSI
    3                      17 Bar / 250 PSI
    5                      16 Bar / 230 PSI
    2                        0 Bar /    0 PSI
    4                        0 Bar /    0 PSI
    6                        0 Bar /    0 PSI

I'm no expert, but I'm guessing that aint good!

What next??

Merv

[cipher]

no mate that aint good, in fact it very very bad.

I would check the timing again, and then look at valve damage.

Head off im afraid, unless you now anyone with a bore-scope

[TheBoy]

bugger.

[GaryB]

sorry about the bad news, but just a wild thought (never having had to play with one of these V6's) - is there any way that having the inlet and exhaust cams for that bank swapped over could cause this (zero compression) fault ?  Could the timing allow that - any other sort of problem and I would have thought that you  would get at least some presuure on the test one one or more cylinders.  I am sure that somebody will know the answer.
HTH

GB

[cipher]

there is not much room on the V6 inside the cylinders for the timing to be out. Two teeth is about the limit before teh pistons invite the valves down to lunch.

It is possible that they could have just clipped the valves, still bent, but only just. I would take the head off, and check.

While your there might as well change the stem seals and re-lap the valves, considering the valves are comig out, then it wouldn't take much longer.

V6man54deg has a great tool for putting the collets back in, gets them every time.