Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Kevin Wood]

I'm not sure what access there is on a 4 cylinder. I remember Taxi Driver had / has the same issue on a 4 pot. Not sure if it's been tackled yet.

I guess the first step would be to remove the manifold (these are prone to cracking, by the way, so give it a once-over) and see how much stud there is protruding. Then regularly drown it in plus gas for a few days before tying to remove it, if there's enough protruding. Maybe there'll be enough length to weld a nut on the end and get it out that way?

Failing that, try a reverse drill bit style extractor? If that didn't work I think I'd be off to an expert with the head to drill it, bearing in mind the alloy head is a lot softer than the stud.

Kevin

[JamesV6CDX]

I always opt to pop the head off - I'm not confident space wise to tap in situ - especially on V6.

[Abiton]

Taylorc, yep, 4-pot.

I'm going to have a try at sorting this in-situ with assistance from a workmate with a workshop and lots of experience.  Thinking about making up a drill guide that fits into the hole in the manifold, if I can get a better photo that suggests the stud is actually central w.r.t. that hole.  Prodding a toothpick in there suggests that it's broken close to flush with the head... .  Some sort of right-angle drill gadget looks to be needed tbh, no room for even the smallest of pistol-drills as far as I can see.

Just had the heatshield off to have a look at some of the other studs/nuts, and to look for cracks, studs nuts on topside don't look too badly corroded, one possible tiny crack, need to clean it up a bit and look in daylight.

So James, you make this "popping the head off" sound like a breeze, care to PM me your phone number?

[Abiton]

Well I finally got there...

Got the manifold off without significant dramas, the stud had broken about 2mm sub-flush at an angle of about 20°.  Tried drilling and 'easy-out' type thing, without any luck, really didn't want to give it heaps as I didn't want a snapped off easy-out in there.

Ended up making a drill guide out of a thick steel plate that fitted over the nearest two good (new) studs and had a 6.8mm hole through a hardened bush in the position required to drill.  Worked unbelievably well  .  Bit of careful work with a tap and I had  a new stud in the original thread.
Couldn't have done it without a very diddy mains drill loaned by Stan, our lovely old neighbour.
New studs and gaskets all round, obviously. Total for parts and one or two tools bought <£50, I'm very chuffed, as is my girlfriend  .

Changed my theory about the cause of the stud failure, though still coolant related. Rather than the top-hose connection leaking/squirting, I'm fairly sure it was actually the thermostat housing-to-head where the leak was, new seal in there now.

Merry Christmas one and all, and thanks for the advice.  

[alanfp]

Well done!!!  Before reading all the threads, I thought you were heading up a blind alley and were going to have to get the head off to do the job.

Mine had done the same, which has now been sorted properly.  Previously, though, someone had re-drilled in situ, but not straight!!! AND had drilled too far so that the hole was visible on the face of the head (when it was removed due to head gasket failure).  

This is obviously a weak point on these engines (along with a few othe weak points??).

Just as a point of intreset, my head just been welded to repair corroded waterways and skimmed at a local workshop.  They did a great job, included reseating the valves, and replacing valve rubbers and replacing two broken studs. All for £220 inc. VAT.

[Markjay]

I believe Taxi Driver here had similar problem....

[Abiton]

Of course the drilling jig will be made available to any members with a problem with the same stud.  It may well fit in other positions too, as I think there are some symmetries in the layout of the studs.