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[Spearmint]

Next week I will be having a bash at this seeing as I have a spare pair of hands with lifting the damn thing off and on.

So I'm looking for any tips, tricks and hard won knowledge WRT the above.

As I understand it:

1) Inlet Manifold off - Will I need a new gasket or is the old one pretty robust?

2) Starter Motor off

3) Prop Shaft off

4) Drain ATF and unbolt the box then remove.

5) Swap over the AR25 Bellhousing and Torque Converter to the AR35 Box - Where is the Torque Converter on the box? How do I get to it? Is everything likely to fall apart thus rendering the job to be finished off by a pro?

6) Refit in reverse.

Anything missed?

[osealy]

There is a good ronaldmcburger how to in FAQ.
I would be interested to hear how long it takes as I have an AR35 but have done nothing yet as the AR25 is being good even tho it once would't select 3rd.
Also I have a gravel driveway.

[Spearmint]

Yeah, I'll be doing it with one side of the car on the kerb the other on jacks. Probably have one of the front wheels ready to come off as well to get the box out from under the car.

I'll go and have a mooch through the FAQ's. 

[TheBoy]

despite what ronniemcb or anyone says, it is ESSENTIAL that tc is firmly engaged to gearbox, rather than flywheel.


td is easier than v6, as exhaust does need to come off.


possible to do without removing intake, but more access if you do.

[Spearmint]

TC?

[Tonka.]

TC?

Torque Converter 

[sassanach]

no need to remove inlet manifold,serves no purpose.don't recall having to remove starter,but im getting old so who knows?.just undo the front coupling on the prop and let it hang.no need to drain fluid.you must remove tc with the box or you will f@@k it up.lastly keep box vertical when changing bell housing or you will have a lot of spare parts

[Spearmint]

Excellent, cheers guys. 

[Spearmint]

Found the guide and tidied it up slightly.

First you have to remove the old box:

1) Jack up the car VERY HIGH and put good quality axle stands under the chassis rails, about 4 " from the front of them. Disconnect both gearbox oil cooler rubber pipes, bending each one back around into a loop and back onto the return pipes. In other words, you will end up with a loop on the gearbox pipes, and another loop on the car pipes.

2) Next, from the engine bay, remove the EGR connection to the inlet manifold, and remove the 12 nuts holding the inlet manifold on. Remove the manifold. You can now access the starter motor. Remove the two torx bolts/nuts that hold the starter in place and secure it with wire up out the way.

3) You can now remove the first 19mm bolt that is the main bell-housing securing bolt. It is located just above the starter motor ones, nearer the centre of the car.

4) Now under the car. Undo the prop-shaft coupling and remove the front prop-shaft section. You may need to raise a rear wheel to do this.

5) Support the gearbox with TWO good quality jacks. One just behind the bell-housing, one just in front of the output shaft. Remove the second 19mm bolt. This one is up at the top drivers side of the bell-housing. A good selection of extension bars will be needed.

6) Now remove the 5 small torx securing bolts, then lastly the two larger torx bolts. The bell-housing is now split.

7) Remove the gearbox to exhaust mounting bolt, then undo the two gearbox mounting bolts. Lower the back of the gearbox an inch, then release the gear selector lever. Now lower rear of box another few inches to access all the connectors, undoing all 4. Re-raise the box and slide it back about 4 inches. Then lower clear of the car.

Remove the old box CAREFULLY and do not damage the torque convertor as this MUST be used again. DO NOT use the 3.0 torque convertor, it will not work. Having removed the box It is a good idea to drain the gearbox at this point, standing on end will drain most of it out.

9) Next, you need to swap the bell-housing over. Standing the OLD box on the output shaft (prop-shaft) end, undo all the bolts on the outer ring and inner ring as you look into the bell-housing. Carefully tap the bell-housing with a rubber mallet as you gently lift it clear of the input shaft and clutches. DO NOT disturb the clutch alignments - they are like a Rubik's Cube to put back in!

10) Place this bell-housing on a CLEAN surface as the mating surface must be kept absolutely clean. Now remove the unwanted 3.0 bell-housing in the same way and discard. Make sure the rubber sealing ring is seated properly, using grease to hold it in place if necessary. Then carefully lower the correct TD bell-housing into place and reinsert the bolts (long ones are the outer ring). Tighten up properly and that job is done.

11) Lastly, swap the gearbox mountings over. The rubber part is the same, it is the arm for the exhaust mounting that is different, so use the best rubber mounting, ideally just changing the whole bracket over.

12) Refit the gearbox to the car, inserting the correct torque convertor (TD one) onto the output shaft first. Remember to feed the vent pipe up the passenger side of the engine compartment. AS the front of the bell housing mates up with the engine, refit the 4 electrical plugs. Connect the two rubber gearbox oil cooler pipes.

13) Raise the back of the box up to fit the mounting to the exhaust first, then bolt the gearbox mounting to the car.

14) Reconnect the gear linkage and clip.

15) Refit all the bell-housing bolts and re connect the torque convertor to the drive-plate. Refit start motor. Refit inlet manifold.

16) Using a garden pressure spray bottle, fill the gearbox with DEX III fluid until it overflows. Temporarily fit the sump plug and start the car. Remove the sump plug and continue filling until fluid freely flows from the plug. Refit plug and that job is done.

Enjoy the car again.

Now, this TC bit I wouldn't mind clarifying a bit.

As the old box is pulled off, the original TC will be bolted to what? The gearbox or the flywheel? So will it come off altogether with the box or will I need to withdraw the box and then unbolt the TC from the flywheel taking care not to let the TC slip off the gearbox shaft?

Same with fitting it.

[unlucky alf]

just to add that when changing bellhousing its advisable to have the box b/housing pointing uppermost, this is to make sure the oil pump/clutch thingy doesnt come out when its all unbolted, i propped mine up on a couple of wheels with the g/box tail on the floor.

[Spearmint]

Ok cheers, can anybody clarify the Torque Converter bit for me? 

[unlucky alf]

you unbolt the t/c so it comes off with the g/box via the inspection hole, when you put it on the new box make sure it sits as far back as possible but dont force it or hit it with anything, once g/box is bolted up fully then go about bolting t/c to the ring gear [flywheel to some ], you will have to turn the engine manually to line up the bolt holes & do them up just loosly until they are all in, then go about the full tightening of them & thats it

[TheBoy]

Undo the 3 bolts securing TC to driveplate ('flywheel') via the inspection hole, before doing anything else. That will disconnect the TC from engine, allowing it to come off cleanly

On refit, FULLY engage TC in gearbox, then bolt gearbox in place, then fit the 3 driveplate to TC bolts last.

[tunnie]

as i recall the back of the TC should actually rub against the front of the box when when fitting, (thats when you can tell its fully engaged) when its bolted to the engine, the TC bolts pull it slightly forward so its no longer rubbing.

[unlucky alf]

Undo the 3 bolts securing TC to driveplate ('flywheel') via the inspection hole, before doing anything else. That will disconnect the TC from engine, allowing it to come off cleanly

On refit, FULLY engage TC in gearbox, then bolt gearbox in place, then fit the 3 driveplate to TC bolts last.

i wish id said that ^^^^