Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[exodus72]

hey all,just in case none of you have read my introduction,i am in the process of buying an omega 3.0l v6 elite on an x plate,i have never owned an omega before so i dont really know what i need to look for in case its a bad un' its done 139000 miles but it still looks pretty clean.
any advice would be greatly appreciated.
cheers.

[duggs]

Check service history.  ESPECIALLY Cam belt and oil changes. A great deal of owners still don't know that the V6 needs new oil every 3000/4000 miles. Cambelt AND tensioners and pulleys need to be changed EVERY 40 k   NOT the original 80 k as released by vauxhalls.

Check carefully for oil leaks around the top of the engines, cam covers basically.

Breathers need to be kept clean at all times, if not the cam gaskets are HIGHLY likely to start leaking.

[zirk]

As above, also check for front end knocking over bumps, wishbones, drop links etc.

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Check service history.  ESPECIALLY Cam belt and oil changes. A great deal of owners still don't know that the V6 needs new oil every 3000/4000 miles. Cambelt AND tensioners and pulleys need to be changed EVERY 40 k   NOT the original 80 k as released by vauxhalls.

Check carefully for oil leaks around the top of the engines, cam covers basically.

Breathers need to be kept clean at all times, if not the cam gaskets are HIGHLY likely to start leaking.

.......or / and 4 years, whichever comes sooner

[Alldi]

Check the service history for regular engine oil changes & autobox oil changes, on the test drive accelerate hard and listen for misfires,
find out when the last cambelt change was, if you can't establish exactly when it was done factor in the cost of having it done and haggle accordingly, check the rear shocks for signs of leaking if it has self levelling rear suspension as replacements are expensive, feel for wet carpets in case the heater matrix is leaking, if it is I'd find another car, and finally check ALL electric equipment thoroughly especially the air con/climate control as this can be extremely expensive and difficult to fix properly. Brakes and suspension stuff is usually quite cheap and easy to fix

[duggs]

APART from the few pointers above buying a good Omega is childs play....NOT !

[24_Valve]

Run the A/C and see if its nice and cold - if not, then you're looking at expensive repair bills i.e. if the refrigerent has leaked the compressor, condensor etc. could be damaged. If it has a sunroof see if it works properly. See if the owner/dealer will let you do a paper clip test to check for hidden faults (fuel & emissions). See if hand brake pulls both rear wheels evenly. If it feels like one side is lifting up, the self adjusters are packed up (common). count number of turns from centre to full lock on each side i.e. must be equal if you for example one side is 2.75 turns & the other 3.25 the car has probably had nasty accident. (figures are examples only. I don't exact number of turns). Also look underneath for split rubber gaiters/boots  if your paying good money it's well worth using the RAC to do a 123point check for you (think its about £120 but can't remember) then you don't need to worry. 

[Broomies Mate]

I'll add to the above points;

As with buying any car, go with your informed, gut instinct.  Does the service history look like it belongs to the car?  Are there significant gaps in the history?  Mileages on MOT certificates.... does it look right? (i.e. 2k one year, 34k another).

Private Sell?:  Does their house look tidy and well looked after, are their other cars (if any) well kept?

Trade Seller?:  What warranty are they providing?  What does it cover, but more importantly, what DOESN'T it cover?

Good luck with it, and hope it turns out to be a good 'un. 

[24_Valve]

Forgot to say - look at front and rear number plates to see if they have the main dealer name/logo etc.. after market number plates on any car are highly suggestive of serious front or rear end impact. First thing I look at on any vehicle  there may be innocent reasons for changing them i.e. stlyle or preference e.g George cross/Football team or whatever.

[Andy B]

... after market number plates on any car are highly suggestive of serious front or rear end impact. ....

 :-? :-? :-? :-? I just wanted new plates with England on! 

[24_Valve]

Lol I've got 'em too (not england tho  ) but keep originals to one side for when the time comes 

[exodus72]

thank you all for your replies,i went to see the car in question yesterday,something didn't feel right about it,it turnes out that the car was seized by the local police,and he couldn't show me any service history or history of any kind,so i walked away.
"THE SEARCH GOES ON"

[Sixstring]

Buying a good car today (whatever make or model) is a minefield when secondhand or "pre-owned" as they prefer to call them these days......
Have personal experience of the "one careful owner , an old lady that only used it to go to church on a sunday" sort of car, bought a mark 5 cortina once that only had 21k on it, and "fsh" that turned out to be an ex-taxi that had gone over the clock by 21k..........(in the days when they could go back to 000000 after 100k!!!)

[Lazydocker]

Buying a good car today (whatever make or model) is a minefield when secondhand or "pre-owned" as they prefer to call them these days......
Have personal experience of the "one careful owner , an old lady that only used it to go to church on a sunday" sort of car, bought a mark 5 cortina once that only had 21k on it, and "fsh" that turned out to be an ex-taxi that had gone over the clock by 21k..........(in the days when they could go back to 000000 after 100k!!!)

I pay very little attention to the mileage reading when looking at a car. I do 25-30k/year anyway so even if I buy a low mileage example it's only going to be low for a couple of years

Likewise, FSH can mean nothing... Look at TB's "secret" purchase... A low mileage example with FSH. It was a shambles

For me the important thing is condition. Interior and exterior condition tell a lot of stories... Are there floor mats fitted? If so, lift them and check wear on the carpets under as well as on the mats. Does the outside look well cared for? Does water bead properly? Obviously, check for rust etc... Stonechips on the front. If it's a low mileage example, why is the front peppered? If it's high mileage, why are there very few? Has it been sprayed? If so, why?

Lift the bonnet (before the engine is even started). Is the oil and coolant level correct... Not just "within the marks" but at (or very near) max. Colour of the oil/coolant. Is the screenwash topped up? Is the engine bay reasonably clean and tidy? Obvious missing bolts or cables routed poorly? To me, an oily rag tucked in the engine bay (safely) can be a good sign that the owner regularly checks the oil

Then think about starting it and do all the usual checks... Especially all the electrical items. Does it warm up correctly? Do the fans cut in?

Once all this has been checked I think about a proper road test, taking in all types of driving if possible

[GaryBC]

Check the service history for regular engine oil changes & autobox oil changes, on the test drive accelerate hard and listen for misfires,
find out when the last cambelt change was, if you can't establish exactly when it was done factor in the cost of having it done and haggle accordingly, check the rear shocks for signs of leaking if it has self levelling rear suspension as replacements are expensive, feel for wet carpets in case the heater matrix is leaking, if it is I'd find another car, and finally check ALL electric equipment thoroughly especially the air con/climate control as this can be extremely expensive and difficult to fix properly. Brakes and suspension stuff is usually quite cheap and easy to fix

Or haggle the price right down and then follow this How-To....http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1262554909!