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[Kneepad]

As already mentioned, the sunroof problem is totally unrelated and is a known problem.
The official word goes like this:

Complaint : Sunroof opens by self-operation, especially at high air humidity and cold ambient temperatures.
Cause: Electronic fault caused by humidity in the drive unit.
Remedy : Replace drive unit.

Members here have had some success by cleaning the magnetic disc inside the unit, this will explain:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1247486519

[Shackeng]

As already mentioned, the sunroof problem is totally unrelated and is a known problem.
The official word goes like this:

Complaint : Sunroof opens by self-operation, especially at high air humidity and cold ambient temperatures.
Cause: Electronic fault caused by humidity in the drive unit.
Remedy : Replace drive unit.

Members here have had some success by cleaning the magnetic disc inside the unit, this will explain:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1247486519

Mine also does it ocsnly, it resets OK as above, but to be honest, with climate control I really don't need it, so run with the fuse out.

[sassanach]

check the resistance of your solenoids,17.5 to 18.5 ohms.+ or - dump em.

[Oh]

You mean the solenoid on the tranny?. I don't really have the tools to crack the tranny open so i'm kinda assed out.

[Oh]

BTW thanks for the link Kneepad. I'll try to crack it open in the next day or 2 to see if it solves it. BTW living in southern california you gotta have a sunroof/convertible top. It's always sunny. I love cruising around with the roof open day and night, except when it rains of course. And oddly enough this year we've had more rain than the last 3 or 4 years put together already.

[Kneepad]

Solenoids are accessible once the transmission fluid sump pan is removed.   

[Oh]

Gotcha. I might have to see if I can crack it open. my biggest concern is being unable to put the fluid back in.

Just to verify. Is this pan the one you're speaking of?

[Kneepad]

The converter solenoid can be got at in the small sump as you have arrowed.
The 1-2/3-4 and 2-3 solenoids can be accessed after removing the main sump.

Well worth checking them all while you're in there.


Here is a guide that will help with getting the fluid back in:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1289757627

[Oh]

So i'm curious. I know the write up said to drain the fluid through the drain plug on the large sump/pan. Could I leave the large sump sealed up and drain the fluid through the small sump in front?

I wouldn't want to half ass the job but It would make life a lot easier if I could get away with draining the least amount of fluid necessary. I would "assume" it's possible although i'm sure it would make a big mess as it would end up dripping all around the sump. If it is possible to just crack open the small sump about how much fluid do you think I would get?

[Kneepad]

Never done as you suggest. I know where you're coming from, but it's going to messy.

Automatic transmission (approximate):
From dry . . . . 8.4 litres
After removing main sump . .  4.4 litres

There won't be that much in the small sump.
Maybe someone else can give some input on this.

[Shackeng]

So i'm curious. I know the write up said to drain the fluid through the drain plug on the large sump/pan. Could I leave the large sump sealed up and drain the fluid through the small sump in front?

I wouldn't want to half ass the job but It would make life a lot easier if I could get away with draining the least amount of fluid necessary. I would "assume" it's possible although i'm sure it would make a big mess as it would end up dripping all around the sump. If it is possible to just crack open the small sump about how much fluid do you think I would get?

A slight misread here, it says

4.   Position oil tray/old washing up bowl under level plug. This is situated half way up the drivers side of the rear (biggest) sump. You'll know it when you see it, it's not a drain plug hence not at the lowest point. Slacken level plug (13mm IIRC), don't fully remove, let ATF flow out into your container (not a great deal at this point). Be very careful as you are working near the cat. converters which will be quite hot even after your short drive. Hand tight level plug - to avoid spillage when sump comes off.

This is the level plug, there is no drain plug, so once the excess has drained through the level plug, you have to remove the sump(s) to drain the rest of the ATF. To be frank, if you are dropping one sump, you would be advised to do both, replace or clean the filter, and refill with fresh ATF in accordance with the guide. HTH

[Oh]

I was just wondering since I replaced the fluid and gaskets less than 500 miles ago. Trying to avoid buying new gaskets and finding a container big enough to hold all the oil. I guess there's no good way around it though.

[Shackeng]

Having done it recently, it will be difficult to (a) Save all the fluid and (b) keep it clean for reuse. The filter will be OK.

[Oh]

So I decided to drop by the Cadillac specialist, just a "Caddy Shop" mind you not the stealership. I tried asking the guy for a quote and he didn't want to give me a #. So I explained to him the issue and told him I've read the codes and did my research. He responded by saying how he had to hook up a computer and drive around to find the issue, and the cost for a diagnosis would be from $50-100. He said I couldn't just bring the car in when the issue comes up and tranny and check engine light came on. I told him I'd prefer not to waste his time or my fuel.

He was polite enough to check on his computer for the possible issues for the code I told him. I went ahead and explained to him that I had an offer for a boneyard tranny install parts + labor at $700 to which he immediately replied that he didn't think he could beat that and I should go for it. He wanted to charge me $400 for a sensor that is $200. And he said that for cracking the tranny open it would cost at least $1400 and up.

 

I told him I'd rather buy myself a nice toolbox, tools and do the job myself for that price.

[Andy H]

Solenoids are accessible once the transmission fluid sump pan is removed.   

This might be a silly question.....

Why do you need to get to the solenoids to measure their resistance? isn't there a multiplug beteen the tranny and the ECU where you can measure the resistances?