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[Sehen]

I have learned the hard and expensive way with the Omega
If you don't wont to go all the way when lowering your Omega, don't!
Mine is lowered 40mm, and when going for 30 or 40mm lowering, the firs thing to pay your attention to is the camber in the back. There is a camberkit on the marked, from Austalia.
It's for the Holden, but it has the same chassi as the Omega.
They reccomend a camber setting for 1.55 and the combined toe for 0.20 in the rear.
The next thing is the donuts, this is what's holding the rear suspension in place, but they will flex a lot when phussing the car in turns.
So change them with polys from the same company. BIG change in drivability!!!
Then the shock's and springs. I'l rather go for sports shocks and standard sports springs then standard shocks with lowering springs. It's essential that when you lower the Omega more then 20mm, that you go for shocks that are rated for that, like the bilstein B6 or B8 and the yellow KOni.
Anyway, this is the setup for my car, and there is no unewen tyrewear 
Poly camberkit in the rear, poly donuts, Cobra 40mm lowering springs and Yellow Koni's, adjusted to one turn in the front and 0 in the rear.
Camber 1,26 in the front. Toe combined 0.10
Camber 1.56 in the back. toe combined 0.20

The car is neutral in corners, before the rear end is starting to drift out, and it's very stable in hig speeds. A benefit from this setup is that the car is hardly roling in the turns, and it feels like you removed 300kg from the car
And the comfort, well, it's better then a corsa or Astra

This is a setup for the driver, for the looker, just chop the springs

[2woody]

just remember if you use the camber-correction kit from Pedders or Whiteline, you MUST discard the camber-correction bar and fit a Carlton / Omega A inner rear wishbone bush.

if you don't your semi-trailing arm will be wanting to pivot in an entirely different way to the camber-control rod wants it to. The result is a suspension bind-up.

[2woody]

Chris - the essence of the rear set-up is this.

it's a semi-trailing arm with a twist....

semi-trailing arm rear suspension is great for packaging because you the manufacturer can get it all under the rear seat. That's why Omega has the minibloc spring, a neat design which keeps the same rate over it's whole range, yet folds up inside itself.

it's also good for comfort.

what it's not too hot on is maintaining a constant roll height over its operating range and maintaining consistent camber over the range.

THEREFORE.....

they like to be kept to the same inclination angle as they're designed ( rear same ride-height ).

and in the case of Omega B (and some Omega A), they have a camber-correction bar in them, which coupled with an especially floppy inner bush, allows the camber to be kept more steady over the full operating movement.

The bar sort of forces the semi-trailing arm into an illogical path in the name of better and more predictable handling, especially on lift-off. kind of like a rudimentary multi-link system.

[feeutfo]

That all makes sense as we have discussed previously on other threads.

But to confirm, the rear track rod merely forces the trailing arm over within the natural play of the bushes.... Trailing arm only? (I don't think I'll fully sus the geometry of those pivot points until I take it to bits and look.) ... Seems a bit Micky though.   

Donuts and rear dif blocks purely for comfort ? (sure I can feel it slop over in corners)

[feeutfo]

This is a setup for the driver, for the looker, just chop the springs

Pmsl 

Of course we would never recommend such silly behaviour. Funny though. 

[Martin_1962]

My thinking being weather the  driver actually needs the set up for the benefit of performance, rather than purely appearance.

Are you implying something there Mr G?

You know the roads around my way - I do cover a lot of motorway/dual carriageway.

After a disappointing, albeit extreme fun, 7000 miles from a set of Sport Maxx TT's, I need a more durable compromise I think  . And no, Michelin do not make anything useful to anyone.

In the late 80s early 90s Michelin bike radials were the best available

[feeutfo]

That all makes sense as we have discussed previously on other threads.

But to confirm, the rear track rod merely forces the trailing arm over within the natural play of the bushes.... Trailing arm only? (I don't think I'll fully sus the geometry of those pivot points until I take it to bits and look.) ... Seems a bit Micky though.   

Donuts and rear dif blocks purely for comfort ? (sure I can feel it slop over in corners)

... And to achieve better set up to match the front would an adjustable eccsentric inner lower trailing arm pivot help? Provided it doesn't bind? Think I'm getting it?

[feeutfo]

My thinking being weather the  driver actually needs the set up for the benefit of performance, rather than purely appearance.

Are you implying something there Mr G?

You know the roads around my way - I do cover a lot of motorway/dual carriageway.

After a disappointing, albeit extreme fun, 7000 miles from a set of Sport Maxx TT's, I need a more durable compromise I think  . And no, Michelin do not make anything useful to anyone.

In the late 80s early 90s Michelin bike radials were the best available

Yes they do! If you call mega mileage and hence no grip useful. Some people do you know. If you where a fleet manager or used your vehicle for business. 

[TheBoy]

Last set of PS2 on the Elite lasted less than 15k before the canvas poked out.

So, zero grip, and poor life. To quote wankwordbingo, that isn't a blue sky scenario.

[feeutfo]

Last set of PS2 on the Elite lasted less than 15k before the canvas poked out.

So, zero grip, and poor life. To quote wankwordbingo, that isn't a blue sky scenario.

J pull the other one. Your not ment to drive it with weds night bangers and hoodies in the local village hall car park. Drive it sedately and you'll get 30k from primacy.... You'll also be late alot, but you'll get 30k. 

[TheBoy]

Last set of PS2 on the Elite lasted less than 15k before the canvas poked out.

So, zero grip, and poor life. To quote wankwordbingo, that isn't a blue sky scenario.

J pull the other one. Your not ment to drive it with weds night bangers and hoodies in the local village hall car park. Drive it sedately and you'll get 30k from primacy.... You'll also be late alot, but you'll get 30k. 

Trouble with Primacy and Pilot Sport is that you start to get a slippery 'sheen' on the surface, that if you don't scrubb off, gives similar grip to Linglongs in the wet on an M40 roundabout.

[feeutfo]

Last set of PS2 on the Elite lasted less than 15k before the canvas poked out.

So, zero grip, and poor life. To quote wankwordbingo, that isn't a blue sky scenario.

J pull the other one. Your not ment to drive it with weds night bangers and hoodies in the local village hall car park. Drive it sedately and you'll get 30k from primacy.... You'll also be late alot, but you'll get 30k. 

Trouble with Primacy and Pilot Sport is that you start to get a slippery 'sheen' on the surface, that if you don't scrubb off, gives similar grip to Linglongs in the wet on an M40 roundabout.

Your not wrong there. Some people do drive slower than my Mrs.  :-/

[Mrs Cakey]

Last set of PS2 on the Elite lasted less than 15k before the canvas poked out.

So, zero grip, and poor life. To quote wankwordbingo, that isn't a blue sky scenario.

J pull the other one. Your not ment to drive it with weds night bangers and hoodies in the local village hall car park. Drive it sedately and you'll get 30k from primacy.... You'll also be late alot, but you'll get 30k. 

Trouble with Primacy and Pilot Sport is that you start to get a slippery 'sheen' on the surface, that if you don't scrubb off, gives similar grip to Linglongs in the wet on an M40 roundabout.

Your not wrong there. Some Most people do drive slower than my Mrs.  :-/

Fixed that for you

As an aside, those Neutons I've stuck on the back seem pretty good (for a budget tyre) so far... Really need to get them onto the front to see about braking traction but are a definite possibility for me while still messing about with setup

[Sehen]

just remember if you use the camber-correction kit from Pedders or Whiteline, you MUST discard the camber-correction bar and fit a Carlton / Omega A inner rear wishbone bush.

if you don't your semi-trailing arm will be wanting to pivot in an entirely different way to the camber-control rod wants it to. The result is a suspension bind-up.

I dont remember tha name of the manufacturer, but my kit contain's both inner and outher adjustible bushings.
When adjustet corectly, tha trailing/toe rod must be set to zero when car is set to ground.
I have checked the travel witout the spring, and there is no binding i the suspension.
The rod's function is mostly correcting the toe. Just look at the inner bushing, it can only move slightly in a front-back movement.
So the camber cant be adjusted as normal in the back, just the toe.
That's my experience on my 4 last Omegas, all modifyed, bringing me to the point where I'm at to day

[2woody]

the bar moves both toe and camber when the semi-trailing arm moves.