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[PaulW]

Yup

Appears to be the same connector and much the same wiring (made some notes at home jsut after the lakes meet).

The ultrasonic interface is different and the wiring to the boot lock solenoid is pretty much the same.

One extra wire for the switch and a few feed changes to.

So hopefully not too much of a problem then!

Any gen on the differences for the ultrasonics??  Reckon I'm best also retro-fitting the sonics from the facelift into the car aswell, or could they just be modified to go into it?

[markey mark]

i have the sonics and the looms down to the floor paul !!

[PaulW]

i have the sonics and the looms down to the floor paul !!

I may get them off you aswell then if I can't get the current ones adapted when the stuff arrives  

[markey mark]

i have the sonics and the looms down to the floor paul !!

I may get them off you aswell then if I can't get the current ones adapted when the stuff arrives  

picked up the car pass from vx today paul had to buy a new one   me dad managed to bloody lose it ! so all boxed up and will be posted monday after work at 2 pm !

[PaulW]

Got the stuff today Mark, cheers  

Right... onto the item in question...

Plumbed it all into the car, the connectors are the same (but as for the pinouts and such, not a clue as I don't have a snippet of loom to check connections...)

The fob wouldn't activate the locks or anything, so that will need Tech 2-ing...

The car will lock and unlock from the key in the lock, BUT the boot still opens when you unlock the car, so there is 1 wiring alteration to make lol

Open the car door after unlocking, the alarm goes off (yay)...
**key in ignition, alarm still goes off
**key in, car started and engine running, alarm still goes off
had to unplug the control box to stop it going off  

So, I'd guess the imob code also needs setting to the old chip in question??  Tech2 again??

As for wiring, I could do with a pinout listing for both pre-facelift (98) and Facelift on the ecu too if at all possible??  The amplifier section is the same (same ID number in the socket), so its just the other bit which needs changing about I reckon...

I think Newent may end up being the 'permanent tech2 connection to my car' camping trip  

[Marks DTM Calib]

Got the stuff today Mark, cheers  

Right... onto the item in question...

Plumbed it all into the car, the connectors are the same (but as for the pinouts and such, not a clue as I don't have a snippet of loom to check connections...)

The fob wouldn't activate the locks or anything, so that will need Tech 2-ing...

The car will lock and unlock from the key in the lock, BUT the boot still opens when you unlock the car, so there is 1 wiring alteration to make lol

Open the car door after unlocking, the alarm goes off (yay)...
**key in ignition, alarm still goes off
**key in, car started and engine running, alarm still goes off
had to unplug the control box to stop it going off  

So, I'd guess the imob code also needs setting to the old chip in question??  Tech2 again??

As for wiring, I could do with a pinout listing for both pre-facelift (98) and Facelift on the ecu too if at all possible??  The amplifier section is the same (same ID number in the socket), so its just the other bit which needs changing about I reckon...

I think Newent may end up being the 'permanent tech2 connection to my car' camping trip  

No tech 2 work required and the immobiliser is seperate to teh ECU.

There are as already mentioned, some supply changes to make which I noted on some printouts at home, I will post them this evening if I get time  

[PaulW]

Cheers Mark

If its any help, its a Delphi control module (Blue LT), 24 443 645 GM

 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Cheers Mark

If its any help, its a Delphi control module (Blue LT), 24 443 645 GM

 

All the facelift alarm ones are  

[PaulW]

All the facelift alarm ones are  

Same with pre-facelift too??

[Marks DTM Calib]

All the facelift alarm ones are  

Same with pre-facelift too??

No but, the wiring harness is the same!

[PaulW]

Cool beans

Reason I asked about the facelift one was due to the picture in Hillpers boot mod, the blue streak says ES whereas the one I have says LT!

[Marks DTM Calib]

Right, the boot release switch connects to pin 3 of the 26 way connector

The boot release solenoid connects to pin 10 of the 12 way connector, this may require one extra wire running to the boot lid where you would cut the existing black/red wire which feeds the boot solenoid and repalce it with the new connection (I suspect the boot opens everytime you unlock the car!)

The connection to pin 1 of the 12 way connector needs to be moved to pin 5 of the 26 way connector.

That just then leaves the ultrasonics....and to get that sorted needs the wires scoping up (I will see if I get chance to do this in the enxt few days)

[PaulW]

Right, the boot release switch connects to pin 3 of the 26 way connector

The boot release solenoid connects to pin 10 of the 12 way connector, this may require one extra wire running to the boot lid where you would cut the existing black/red wire which feeds the boot solenoid and repalce it with the new connection (I suspect the boot opens everytime you unlock the car!)

The connection to pin 1 of the 12 way connector needs to be moved to pin 5 of the 26 way connector.

That just then leaves the ultrasonics....and to get that sorted needs the wires scoping up (I will see if I get chance to do this in the enxt few days)

Yes the boot does open everytime I unlock the car, its a tad, annoying you could say!

So going from those pinouts, it should work (except for solenoids as you mentioned) so the switch to turn off the internal sensors remains untouched too??

Also, would this explain now as to why the alarm never turned off when the key was in the ignition?  I did notice 1 of the relays sounds like its 'rattling' as if you shake the control module, you can hear it... I hope this isn't whats probably causing the alarm to stay on...

Still, I'll get to the scrappers tomorrow, get a piece of loom, and start splicing to see if I can get it to work... but I still think they fob will need tech2'ing up to the ecu still (unless thats related to the rattly relay too) even though key in door operates the central locking fine......

[PaulW]

Right...  I've not got both sets of loom to compare!  This is what I have...

Facelift Loom

Amp (12pin)

1 -
2 - Brown / Red Stripe
3 - Red (thin)
4 -
5 -
6 - Brown / White Stripe
7 - Black / Yellow Stripe
8 - Black / Red Stripe
9 - Red (thick)
10 - Black / Red Stripe
11 - Brown
12 -

Main Connector (28pin)
1 - Brown / Red Stripe
2 - Brown / White Stripe
3 - Brown / Blue Stripe
4 - Black
5 - Brown / Red Stripe
6 -
7 - Green / Brown Stripe      }      Interior Alarm Sensor??  Splits to 1 Brown Wire too.
8 - Blue / Brown Stripe            }
9 -
10 - Black / Blue Stripe (thick)
11 - Grey / Black Stripe
12 - Red / Blue Stripe
13 -
14 - Black / White Stripe
15 - Blue
16 - Grey
17 - Brown / Yellow Stripe (splits to 2 of same)
18 - Red
19 - Brown / Red Stripe
20 - Brown / Green Stripe
21 - Brown / White Stripe
22 - Brown / White Stripe
23 - Brown / Red Stripe
24 - Brown / Black Stripe
25 - Brown / Purple Stripe
26 - Black
27 -
28 -

Pre-Facelift Loom

Amp (12pin)

1 - Brown / Red Stripe
2 - Brown / Red Stripe
3 - Red (thin)
4 - Brown / White Stripe
5 -
6 - Brown / White Stripe
7 - Black / Yellow Stripe
8 - Black / Red Stripe
9 - Red (thick)
10 -
11 - Brown
12 -

Main Connector (28pin)
1 - Brown / Red Stripe
2 - Brown / White Stripe
3 -
4 -
5 -
6 - Black / Purple Stripe
7 - Brown
8 - Red / White Stripe
9 - White
10 - Black / Blue Stripe (thick)
11 - Grey / Black Stripe
12 - Red / Blue Stripe
13 - Blue
14 - Black / White Stripe
15 - Grey / White Stripe
16 - Grey
17 - Brown / White Stripe
18 - Red
19 - Brown / Red Stripe
20 - Brown / Green Stripe
21 - Brown / White Stripe
22 - Brown / White Stripe
23 - Brown / Red Stripe
24 - Brown / Black Stripe
25 - Brown / Purple Stripe
26 - Black
27 -
28 -

** Pins 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 9 are linked to 2 sets of interior sensors???, with 1 brown whire split seperately.

So, there are differences from both sides...

Need to connect a switch feed to pin 3 of the 28-pin connector (Brown / Blue Stripe) to a switch on the dash, and ground it?

On the 12pin Amp connector, Run a line from pin 10 (Black / Red Stripe) to the boot, and splice into Black / Red Stripe wire there (disconnecting from previous loom to do)

Move the wire from Pin 1 on 12pin pre-facelift (Brown / Red Stripe) to pin 5 on the 28-pin facelift (Brown / Red Stripe)

As for interior sensors... Can I not just disconnect 1 side, and leave 1 side active?  Or will there be a way of linking both up?

This just leaves the following with no connection...

12-pin
4 - Brown / White Stripe

28-pin
4 - Black
13 - Blue

Amongst other color differences...

[PaulW]

Right, bit more work on this...

Mark, you were saying about 'Scoping' the sensors... I've been looking at the wiring a bit more...

Now, I've looked at the sensors, and come to this conclusion (as each sonic has 2 sensors in it, so 4 wires...)

	Rear	Front
Passenger	1. Red/Blue 2. Brown	3. Red/White 4. Purple/Black
Driver	1. Purple/Black 2. White	3. Blue 4. Brown

(numbers correspond to pin on sensor connection)

However, the grounding (brows split off) which is running an unshielded core through each appears not to be connected to the sensor, so don't know where this goes...

If the facelift is plugged in (going from the wiring) none of these sensors will be connected.  As the feed goes directly to Front sensor for Passenger and Drivers side (Red/White - Brown (pins 7 and 8 on the multiplug)

Facelift, pin 12 is *not* running to the interior sensor (going from the wiring I have), yet pre-facelift it is.  Wire color is Red/Blue.  Where does this wire connect on the facelift??

Pin 6 and 7 are ground by looks of it (6=Purple/Black, 7-Brown).  These are split into both sensors (so connected to matching color points).

Now, going from what I can see here, I can atleast wire 1 sensor up (I think) if I adapt the following...

Run facelift pins 7 and 8 (green/brown, blue/red), to pins 7 and 13 (blue, brown) which will supply drivers front sensor?  But I may be wrong...

Or is there a way of cross-linking all the sensors to run just off pins 7 and 8 off the facelift box?

Or should I just get the facelift sensor, and loom down to the door pod and just plumb that one into the loop and do away with the door sensors?

This still leaves the mystery of the following coming out of the facelift loom which don't have a place on the prefacelift wiring...

Pin 4 (Black) - Fuse 15, Ignition Voltage, 20A
Pin 12 (Red/Blue) - Interior Lamp

And the following color changes in wiring:


                                          

Pin	Facelift Color	Pre-Facelift Color	Facelift Desc
15	Gray/White	Blue	TKS - Door Contact Switch
17	Brown/Yellow	Brown/White	HRL - Trunk Lamp

I guess this is where the pre-facelift wiring diagram comes in handy  

Cheers

Paul