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[Malcolm_D]

Can anyone direct me towards instructions for wiring up a 13 pin socket to my 2002 2.6 Elite saloon? 

[Kevin Wood]

There's some information in this section if you search. I meant to do a guide a while back. There's a half-finished one on my PC somewhere..

Anyway, here's a few pointers:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1190477322/0

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1202657417/5

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1175364013/0

Kevin

[Malcolm_D]

Hell's teeth, this sounds like a nightmare to do! I am not confident at all with car electrics so would prefer to have it done by an expert who knows what they are doing - any recommendations?

[Andy B]

Hell's teeth, this sounds like a nightmare to do! I am not confident at all with car electrics so would prefer to have it done by an expert who knows what they are doing - any recommendations?

Not really!  There's only 13 wires & chances are you'll only be using 12 of them. 

[Entwood]

The "road" wires .. lights, indicators, reverse, etc already exist, in a small block at the back of the boot. To get the additional sources for Fridge, Battery, etc you will need to add "split charge relays" ... these are best fed directly from the battery with a fuse adjacent to the battery. their purpose is to ensure that the supply ONLY goes to the socket whilst the alternator is running, else you end up with a very flat car battery.

You can do the road lights fairly simply, or buy a fancy kit through VX, eitherway you must ensure the wiring is legal as well as safe ... the two not being the same !!

Lots of info on Google ..

this is one ... (BTW ... pin 12 rarely used unless you have a VERY new van with alko stability control ..   )

http://www.a-tconsulting.co.uk/caravan_tech/13_pin_wiring_details.html

[Malcolm_D]

Hell's teeth, this sounds like a nightmare to do! I am not confident at all with car electrics so would prefer to have it done by an expert who knows what they are doing - any recommendations?

Not really!  There's only 13 wires & chances are you'll only be using 12 of them. 

I I have use photobucket correctly these are pictures of the connector in the boot of my omega, the electrical gubbins sent with the towbar and a close up of the relay and audible monitor.

[Malcolm_D]

Obviously the photo bit hasn't worked, will try again! 

[Malcolm_D]

There's some information in this section if you search. I meant to do a guide a while back. There's a half-finished one on my PC somewhere..

Anyway, here's a few pointers:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1190477322/0

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1202657417/5

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1175364013/0
Kevin

For anyone contemplating a tow bar install I'd recommend using the feed to the rear light cluster brake lights and forgetting about the signal in the prewired trailer connector. It makes for a slightly more messy installation in the back end, but saves having to mess about under the dash. It is the black and yellow wires, though. You'll find 2 of them going into the relay socket (along with a brown and a grey and black wire). Bridge the two black and yellow wires using 2 spade connectors with a short length of wire between them and leave the others disconnected.

I have read this explanation and must be having a senior moment - remind me (in simple terms please) why is it necessary to do this? Also are the two spade connectors and the joining wire going into the relay socket, hence are the two yellow/black wires being left disconnected?

I have included a photo of what I think the relay socket is, the problem is that the top wire going into terminal D is black and white not black and yellow! Terminal B has the only black and yellow wire.



This is the passengers side, is it necessary to do the same to the drivers side?

Time to lie down in a dark room! 

[Kevin Wood]

For anyone contemplating a tow bar install I'd recommend using the feed to the rear light cluster brake lights and forgetting about the signal in the prewired trailer connector. It makes for a slightly more messy installation in the back end, but saves having to mess about under the dash. It is the black and yellow wires, though. You'll find 2 of them going into the relay socket (along with a brown and a grey and black wire). Bridge the two black and yellow wires using 2 spade connectors with a short length of wire between them and leave the others disconnected.

I have read this explanation and must be having a senior moment - remind me (in simple terms please) why is it necessary to do this? Also are the two spade connectors and the joining wire going into the relay socket, hence are the two yellow/black wires being left disconnected?

The socket is designed for a bulb failure sensor and this is only fitted when the car leaves the factory with a towbar. The brake light feed to the towing connector is passed through this sensor so the feed only works if you either install the sensor or bridge the two (yellow and black) wires at the socket to complete the circuit.

You can leave the other two wires attached to the socket, just not electrically connected to anything.

I have included a photo of what I think the relay socket is, the problem is that the top wire going into terminal D is black and white not black and yellow! Terminal B has the only black and yellow wire.



This is the passengers side, is it necessary to do the same to the drivers side?

Time to lie down in a dark room! 

The picture is too small to see what it is, unfortunately. If there aren't 2 black and yellow wires it's not the right one, though.

To be honest, if you aren't interested in fitting the factory bulb failure sensor there isn't much point in spending time finding the connector. I would just take a feed from one of the rear light cluster brake lights (again, it's the black and yellow wire here).

Kevin

[Malcolm_D]

Thanks for all of the help with this issue, especially to Kevin and AndyB for their expertise and Cliff for the home visit.

Job now done but without the proper VX connector - didn't have the time to wait!

For those who are interested I have connected the majority of the 13 pin wires to the wires going to the VX connector, I have followed Kevin's advice re the brake lights, in addition the supplier of the tow bar (very nice Westfalia detatchable) provided a relay for the fridge etc... I have checked the scotch loks provided and soldered most joints covering them with heat shrink sleeve. Although I have tested all terminals with a multimeter the real test will be when I pick up the van in a couple of weeks.

[Dave DND]

Just as a cautionary word of warning,

My MOT tester said to me the other day that they will soon be bringing in towbar soket testing as part of the MOT for those that have a towbar socket fitted

Another thing for them to fail us all on

 

[Andy B]

Just as a cautionary word of warning,

My MOT tester said to me the other day that they will soon be bringing in towbar soket testing as part of the MOT for those that have a towbar socket fitted

Another thing for them to fail us all on

 

It's only in the last couple of years that the MOT has included the fixing points of the towbar. Interestingly, if I don't include my detachable towball they can't test it & so they have to apparently note that they couldn't test it. But those towballs that have a drop-pin type (to tow industrial compressors/generators/etc) if they have the pin but no securing R clip it'll fail but if the pin isn't there at all then they have to pass it.  :-? :-?

[Dave DND]

Just as a cautionary word of warning,

My MOT tester said to me the other day that they will soon be bringing in towbar soket testing as part of the MOT for those that have a towbar socket fitted

Another thing for them to fail us all on

 

It's only in the last couple of years that the MOT has included the fixing points of the towbar. Interestingly, if I don't include my detachable towball they can't test it & so they have to apparently note that they couldn't test it. But those towballs that have a drop-pin type (to tow industrial compressors/generators/etc) if they have the pin but no securing R clip it'll fail but if the pin isn't there at all then they have to pass it.  :-? :-?

That is my understanding also, they can only test what is physically there - however, towbar or not, how many of us have detachable wiring, and what happens to those of us that have the socket installed to run nothing more than power for accessories when at a show and therefore non standard wiring?  Its going to be an interesting argument I think.

 :-/

[Entwood]

Regarding MOT testing of towbar electrics .... it IS going to happen, and from January 2012 .. but there are problems that VOSA is attempting to sort ....

The legislation is European ( had to be didn't it !!!) and was written to cover trucks ... but by default covers "all" towbars .....(badly written legislation ??)

Trouble is .. there are at least 3 different 13 pin configurations, and the proposal only covers one ...... also, present UK MOT legislation prohibits the garage removing anything in order to check an item ..... so if you have a cover on the socket... what happens .. ?

Item 2 refers ....   http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/repository/Special%20Notice%2001-11.pdf

I also have been told (no proof mind) that although the specifications of the test equipment have been finalised ... the actual test procedures and parameters have not !!!

That erstwhile "support" (?) club .. The Caravan Club ... are still convinced that no such test is planned in the future ..... well, that was their answer to my e-mail that also had the above link in it ..