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[marrus69]

can i run a base box from the stero thats in my car you now the cid one.had i working in the old omega but was running an aftermarket stero,and dont wont to remove this one.

[Dave DND]

You can tap off a feed from the speakers on the stereo, pass it through one of these

http://www.dndservices.co.uk/pc1-601.html

and then plug it into the amplifier for your Bass box

 

[marrus69]

cool my next job,thanks

[marrus69]

ok got the leads,is thier a inline on off switch i can put in,as it will be running all the time, i sometimes take my mum shoping and im sure she would not like it, or a volume switch,i could put a on off switch on the live from the battery that would work i think.actully that will be better unless my stero has a on off lead i think its blue.

[Martian]

i sometimes take my mum shoping and im sure she would not like it, or a volume switch,

If a sub is set up properly then it won't upset your mum, however I suspect your idea of the perfect setup is to have as much bass as possible regardless of how much it overwhelms the rest of the audio spectrum.
If that is the case, your only option is to have an over-ride switch placed in series with the blue wire that goes to your sub from the head unit so you can control when it is on.

[tango]

if you feed this line convertor of your rear speakers
all you have to do is adjust your fader to the front speakers only this will cut off any sound going to the rear speakers
hence nothing will be heard from the sub

plus in this kind of setup you should always use a switch wich can act as a remote switch to turn the amp on otherwise it will constantly be on
and drain your battery when car is off

[Martian]

plus in this kind of setup you should always use a switch wich can act as a remote switch to turn the amp on otherwise it will constantly be on
and drain your battery when car is off

That's the job of the blue wire that comes from the head unit.
When the head unit is off, the blue (leccy aerial) feed is also off. When the head unit is on, the leccy aerial feed is live and this is used as the "switch on" signal by amplifiers.

[tango]

it is but the original unit or the wiring doesnt have a blue wire
i think its the red wire with the white line iirc
but im sure someone else can confirm

[Dave DND]

DO NOT add any extra switches in line to turn it on and off

This will introduce a "THUMP" as it is turned on at the wrong time and will damage your amp and speakers, unlike the "soft start" from the remote feed from the head unit that comes into play before the audio is initialised.

[Martian]

Wouldn't make any odds whether the OP fits an inline switch or not in this case Dave as his sub obviously has it's own integral amp, and I expect that would be taking care of what gets switched on & when.

[Dave DND]

Wouldn't make any odds whether the OP fits an inline switch or not in this case Dave as his sub obviously has it's own integral amp, and I expect that would be taking care of what gets switched on & when.

No, you are quite wrong.

This is exactly the scenario that would cause a sub and its speaker to thump and burn out. The problem is that the amp will switch on with full audio present rather than powering up "quietly" before the audio signals have a chance.

[Kevin Wood]

Wouldn't make any odds whether the OP fits an inline switch or not in this case Dave as his sub obviously has it's own integral amp, and I expect that would be taking care of what gets switched on & when.

No, you are quite wrong.

This is exactly the scenario that would cause a sub and its speaker to thump and burn out. The problem is that the amp will switch on with full audio present rather than powering up "quietly" before the audio signals have a chance.

Like Marian, I too would have hoped the amp would be designed to mute itself (and, for that matter, not connect the speakers), regardless of audio input, until it had stabilised after power-up without DC offsets on the output. Any decent household audio amp will do this, after all.

[Dave DND]

But a household amp will fire everything up at the same time, you are not trying to switch in and out external sections once the main system is running? Silly comparison?

Car audio is not a household amp !!

Install it correctly (no switches) and there will be no problems.

[Martian]

But a household amp will fire everything up at the same time, you are not trying to switch in and out external sections once the main system is running? Silly comparison?

Car audio is not a household amp !!

Install it correctly (no switches) and there will be no problems.

I haven't seen a household amp for years that doesn't wait for things to settle down before connecting the speakers and enabling the audio output Dave, so not really a silly comparison IMO.
I will admit to having seen several "bass tubes" that just let everything come on with a clonk when powered up, but they are the real cheap chinese crap (as opposed to the standard cheap chinese crap) that sound like shite and aren't worth worrying about when something does give inside them anyway (normally the drive unit because it's being overdriven).

[marrus69]

i got confused forgot about blue power wire from stero.amp is 750watt pye running 2 15inch subs,red wire from batt connects to a power cap then to amp, blue wire from amp to stero blue or (red and white)what i was getting at was i would have no control.over sound to amp from my stereo i can adjust sond level on amp though i had this same set up in my old mig 4 years no dead battery and only drove couple times a week,