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[Jim]

As Heading??
On a 3.2 v6

[cem_devecioglu]

first, auto is too heavy for one person..

you will need  someone to help you or a transmission lift ..

after every required part is ready (took some days for us)
on a 2.5 it took whole day for mechanical part (including some compulsory breaks) ..and a half for electronics.. job is done by mechanics..(2 persons)

[Mr Gav]

I converted my Senator in a day and a half on my own, but the electrical side was easy as the fuel injection loom is independent so it was just a case of swapping the aut loom for the manual.
The pedal box was a pig of a job, laid on your back with your head in the footwell and no room to move.
It`s all worthwhile though and don`t let AndyB tell you otherwise 

[serek]

need to say one day with 2 people with lots of tea

[2woody]

I have done one in a single day on my own, but it was hard work.

not actually done a 3.2 yet....., but I'd expect it to be no harder apart from any Tech2 malarky.

and it would depend on having all ( and I mean all ) of the bits to hand.

[2woody]

actually, it's not that far from me to you - want to rent me for the day ?

fnar 

[Bionic]

Being really the devils advocate it all depends on the problems that you may face that are not immediately apparent. Then also on the skills and equipment of the ones doing the job.
I would allow at least two full days even if i had everything to hand to be well on the safe side if the car is the main transport you have.
Like I said, it is better to be safe than be surprised and disappointed if it all does not go to plan. Make sure the parts you are fitting are not faulty and all work too. Have a backup plan just in case....
All the luck in the world though, give us a post when it is done and maybe some advice for others who might want to do the same. 

[cem_devecioglu]

I forgat to mention, also clutch bleeding required two persons..

[serek]

I have done one in a single day on my own, but it was hard work.

not actually done a 3.2 yet....., but I'd expect it to be no harder apart from any Tech2 malarky.

and it would depend on having all ( and I mean all ) of the bits to hand.

same job like any other V6

[Jim]

actually, it's not that far from me to you - want to rent me for the day ?
fnar 

I might take you up on that

[scimmy_man]

actually, it's not that far from me to you - want to rent me for the day ?
fnar 

I might take you up on that

man love?

[Matchless]

Jim, your 3.2 is fly-by-wire so the bits in the guide covering cruise wiring, clutch pedal switch and possibly the brake pedal switch will not apply.
If you post-up the differences for the dbw cars I will amend the guide.

[Psychoca]

I forgat to mention, also clutch bleeding required two persons..

Depends on how it is done, but, I have bled the clutch a couple of times on my own...

1st time by continually topping up the fluid and pumping the pedal by hand, the 2nd time with a syringe on the bleed nipple...

[cem_devecioglu]

I forgat to mention, also clutch bleeding required two persons..

Depends on how it is done, but, I have bled the clutch a couple of times on my own...

1st time by continually topping up the fluid and pumping the pedal by hand, the 2nd time with a syringe on the bleed nipple...

I see 3 persons trying that..  :-?

if its done properly one was topping up, other pumping the pedal and one down bleeding.. so practically we need a big octopussy with long arms

[Jim]

Jim, your 3.2 is fly-by-wire so the bits in the guide covering cruise wiring, clutch pedal switch and possibly the brake pedal switch will not apply.
If you post-up the differences for the dbw cars I will amend the guide.

OK, I didn't know that!! may be I would be converting the 3.2

[Webby the Bear]

hi guys.

forgive my ignorance and/or stupidity but why are you converting A to M?

[cem_devecioglu]

hi guys.

forgive my ignorance and/or stupidity but why are you converting A to M?

performance, economy, control on the car..

and the car is approx 40 kgs lighter..

[serek]

hi guys.

forgive my ignorance and/or stupidity but why are you converting A to M?

performance, economy, control on the car..

and the car is approx 40 kgs lighter..

[2woody]

manual is for people who like to Drive.

auto is for people who have no interest in driving

[2woody]

Jim, your 3.2 is fly-by-wire so the bits in the guide covering cruise wiring, clutch pedal switch and possibly the brake pedal switch will not apply.
If you post-up the differences for the dbw cars I will amend the guide.

OK, I didn't know that!! may be I would be converting the 3.2

This should in theory make a 3.2 easier to convert, although I'm suspecting some Tech2 input when we're done.

[Kevin Wood]

This should in theory make a 3.2 easier to convert, although I'm suspecting some Tech2 input when we're done.

Quite likely on both counts. I think that, whilst the non-dbw ECU figures out if it's in an auto or manual car, the DBW ECU needs to be configured. When it can't find the auto gearbox ECU on the CAN bus it gets upset. Can't remember if it just lights the EML or whether it also goes into limp home.

Kevin

[cem_devecioglu]

This should in theory make a 3.2 easier to convert, although I'm suspecting some Tech2 input when we're done.

Quite likely on both counts. I think that, whilst the non-dbw ECU figures out if it's in an auto or manual car, the DBW ECU needs to be configured. When it can't find the auto gearbox ECU on the CAN bus it gets upset. Can't remember if it just lights the EML or whether it also goes into limp home.

Kevin

mine is 97 , mid definitely become upset.. and warns with autobox message.. so re-programmed..

and unfortunately 97 ecu can not be re-programmed  (after many trials we learned that).. but up to now I didnt witness any side effects..

except my hot starting problem despite all efforts

(which was existent also before)

[2woody]

it's only DBW cars that will become upset, so that's after 2001

Earlier cars are "told" if they are manual or auto through the earthed pin, so no trouble there (unless you forget to earth the pin)

[Kevin Wood]

This should in theory make a 3.2 easier to convert, although I'm suspecting some Tech2 input when we're done.

Quite likely on both counts. I think that, whilst the non-dbw ECU figures out if it's in an auto or manual car, the DBW ECU needs to be configured. When it can't find the auto gearbox ECU on the CAN bus it gets upset. Can't remember if it just lights the EML or whether it also goes into limp home.

Kevin

mine is 97 , mid definitely become upset.. and warns with autobox message.. so re-programmed..

and unfortunately 97 ecu can not be re-programmed  (after many trials we learned that).. but up to now I didnt witness any side effects..

except my hot starting problem despite all efforts

(which was existent also before)
 

This will purely be because the diagnostic line from the autobox ECU to the MID is open circuit. It can either be grounded (IIRC) or the MID reprogrammed to expect a manual box, at which point the warning is disabled.

It's not the engine ECU complaining.

[Webby the Bear]

manual is for people who like to Drive.

auto is for people who have no interest in driving

i hate to disagree but i absolutely love driving. and i prefer an auto.

as for the ''increased performance'' seriously what extra are you going to get out of it? 1/2 a sec on a 0-60? hmmmm

[Jimbob]

manual is for people who like to Drive.

auto is for people who have no interest in driving

i hate to disagree but i absolutely love driving. and i prefer an auto.

as for the ''increased performance'' seriously what extra are you going to get out of it? 1/2 a sec on a 0-60? hmmmm

yes, not much on a 0-60 sprint...

but multiplied on a trip on the twistys and its a lot more power and drivability.
have to say, I do like the pure go-kart ease of an auto a lot of the time, esp in traffic.  Yup its lazy!
the economy difference is big as well, manual far better 

[Webby the Bear]

manual is for people who like to Drive.

auto is for people who have no interest in driving

i hate to disagree but i absolutely love driving. and i prefer an auto.

as for the ''increased performance'' seriously what extra are you going to get out of it? 1/2 a sec on a 0-60? hmmmm

yes, not much on a 0-60 sprint...

but multiplied on a trip on the twistys and its a lot more power and drivability.
have to say, I do like the pure go-kart ease of an auto a lot of the time, esp in traffic.  Yup its lazy!
the economy difference is big as well, manual far better 

true. i assume perfect gear changes/timing would be needed though.

i drove a stick whilst on holiday and it felt odd as aint driven one for a while. i kept forgetting to change gear 

[cem_devecioglu]

manual is for people who like to Drive.

auto is for people who have no interest in driving

i hate to disagree but i absolutely love driving. and i prefer an auto.

as for the ''increased performance'' seriously what extra are you going to get out of it? 1/2 a sec on a 0-60? hmmmm

over a second..  you may not believe.. but you better try first

I give up to sell the car

[cem_devecioglu]

manual is for people who like to Drive.

auto is for people who have no interest in driving

i hate to disagree but i absolutely love driving. and i prefer an auto.

as for the ''increased performance'' seriously what extra are you going to get out of it? 1/2 a sec on a 0-60? hmmmm

yes, not much on a 0-60 sprint...

but multiplied on a trip on the twistys and its a lot more power and drivability.
have to say, I do like the pure go-kart ease of an auto a lot of the time, esp in traffic.  Yup its lazy!
the economy difference is big as well, manual far better 

my average still around 7 litre/100 km.. and I give up to drive like miss daisy and still I didnt visit fuel station..

[cem_devecioglu]

Kevin and 2woody thanks for the info

[Martin_1962]

manual is for people who like to Drive.

auto is for people who have no interest in driving

I disagree

Autos can be fun and are better in traffic

[Entwood]

Why is it that some folks think "driving" involves using both feet and only having one hand on the steering wheel half the time ??

Auto .. select 2, and sport mode ... then you can play in the "wiggly bits" at speeds of up to 80 mph with ease .. and if you need more than 80 then I don't class it as "wiggly" ... 

"Driving" is being in the right position on the road (correct lines) with the right amount of traction (accelerator OR brake) not about waving your left hand around attached to a stick.

[cem_devecioglu]

I used my auto like a manual for long years..

and I can say even if you use 1, 2, 3 mode it hesitates for some fraction of second.. and it never pulls like a manual.. until 80.. (too late opponent gone )

using auto is more like 2,3,4,5 where on a manual its like 1,2,3,4,5 ..

compare this auto

1 gear until 90 km/hr where as I use 1 until 50 and second 100 km/hr.. ratios are not even close.. :-/

[serek]

I done 15K since conversion.
olny plroblem is , code p1700 that what keep car with spanner on dash.

I left auto box ecu plug in, just  done 2 bridge on gear selector socket so my criuse control work

[cem_devecioglu]

I done 15K since conversion.
olny plroblem is , code p1700 that what keep car with spanner on dash.

I left auto box ecu plug in, just  done 2 bridge on gear selector socket so my criuse control work

mine works too, but need to buy clutch and brake switches..and do some extra wiring..

the only thing left untouched is ignition timing retard ?

cable colors are different on mine.. and mechanics didint understand why .. whats the advantage of that doing so ?  :-/

[serek]

if you join cable from BCD pins on gear selector socket (then ecu see car on D position then criuse control will work apart clutch pedal,
then you only need do some work under steering wheel.
Edit: will have look when get bak home and let you know about wiring under steering wheel

[cem_devecioglu]

if you join cable from BCD pins on gear selector socket (then ecu see car on D position then criuse control will work apart clutch pedal,
then you only need do some work under steering wheel.
Edit: will have look when get bak home and let you know about wiring under steering wheel

I understand how you did it.. like it originally works on an auto.. we connected both switches and it works ok now.. but on the notes Matchless mentioned about ignition timing retard..  (which made us all retards.. mechanics didint understand .. and me too ) no one understood why.. 

[2woody]

surely the only way to do it is to take out ALL ofthe "auto" wiring from the loom, etc. ?

[Mr Gav]

surely the only way to do it is to take out ALL ofthe "auto" wiring from the loom, etc. ?

Thats the route I took with my Senator, you need the fuel injection loom from the manual though because of the starter inhibitor.

[Andy B]

This must be a trick question .........

why would you ever want more than 2 pedals? 

[cem_devecioglu]

This must be a trick question .........

why would you ever want more than 2 pedals? 

but you dont have to use brake and accelerator at the same time except some special usage..which of course is not suitable for auto..

[Andy B]

This must be a trick question .........

why would you ever want more than 2 pedals? 

but you dont have to use brake and accelerator at the same time except some special usage..which of course is not suitable for auto..

 

[cem_devecioglu]

This must be a trick question .........

why would you ever want more than 2 pedals? 

but you dont have to use brake and accelerator at the same time except some special usage..which of course is not suitable for auto..

 

 

and I dont think drifting with expensive rubber is good idea for my bankrupt budget

[Marks DTM Calib]

On the 2.5 and 3.0 there is a mode select wire when when grounded makes the ECU work in manual config.

This same wire when connected to the auto ecu receives an ignition retard signal to back the power off during a auto box shift which in turn smooths the change.

No re-programming required!

[Marks DTM Calib]

This must be a trick question .........

why would you ever want more than 2 pedals? 

2 pedals = town and motorway driving for the infirm

3 pedals = spirited driving along A, B and back roads.

Simples!

[Kevin Wood]

3 pedals = spirited driving along A, B and back roads.

Yep. The above is not a satisfying experience when attempted with 2 pedals IMHO.

[cem_devecioglu]

On the 2.5 and 3.0 there is a mode select wire when when grounded makes the ECU work in manual config.

This same wire when connected to the auto ecu receives an ignition retard signal to back the power off during a auto box shift which in turn smooths the change.

No re-programming required!

thanks Mr DTM

[Shackeng]

I used my auto like a manual for long years..

and I can say even if you use 1, 2, 3 mode it hesitates for some fraction of second.. and it never pulls like a manual.. until 80.. (too late opponent gone )

using auto is more like 2,3,4,5 where on a manual its like 1,2,3,4,5 ..

compare this auto

1 gear until 90 km/hr where as I use 1 until 50 and second 100 km/hr.. ratios are not even close.. :-/

?

[aaronjb]

3 pedals = spirited driving along A, B and back roads.

Yep. The above is not a satisfying experience when attempted with 2 pedals IMHO.

I'd agree with that.. there's a certain narrow, tight, twisty road on the way to work that is a hoot to drive in the MR2 but downright scary in the Omega, and it's not the size & weight but the autobox..

[Kevin Wood]

3 pedals = spirited driving along A, B and back roads.

Yep. The above is not a satisfying experience when attempted with 2 pedals IMHO.

I'd agree with that.. there's a certain narrow, tight, twisty road on the way to work that is a hoot to drive in the MR2 but downright scary in the Omega, and it's not the size & weight but the autobox..

Yep.. Just lift off a little for this bend.. Ah! so I'm not going to get any engine braking today.. just freewheeling? New underwear, please!

[aaronjb]

3 pedals = spirited driving along A, B and back roads.

Yep. The above is not a satisfying experience when attempted with 2 pedals IMHO.

I'd agree with that.. there's a certain narrow, tight, twisty road on the way to work that is a hoot to drive in the MR2 but downright scary in the Omega, and it's not the size & weight but the autobox..

Yep.. Just lift off a little for this bend.. Ah! so I'm not going to get any engine braking today.. just freewheeling? New underwear, please!

Yep, shortly followed by the "Ok, accelerate on the apex to settle the car and .. nothing, wait, no drive, ah, you're selecting a new gear, ok, now we get drive and the car's totally unsettled, thanks!"

[Marks DTM Calib]

Its the 'balance the car on the throttle in the corner, increase the power hard as you straighten the wheels and....kick down!

Or, accelerate hard out in first, knock to second.....wait a bit, second.....

[footloose]

Interested to hear more about this when job done.
Talking of octopussys should have seen me when i stuck my hand around the back of the engine to see if the HBV was leaking. Should have let the engine cool down realy.

[Jim]

Right, Who's up for helping me do the conversion??

I work 10-15 mins from Newent and have access to a Vehicle workshop

[2woody]

I could do two weeks on Friday

[Marks DTM Calib]

Happy to lend a hand at Newent.

There are some things that can be done before e.g fitting the pedal box to help split the job down into smaller chunks.

[cem_devecioglu]

parts must be prepared ..

[2woody]

can you list the parts you have please ?

[Mr Gav]

One thing that`s,  often overlooked is the spigot bearing for the crank, make sure you have one of those, in fact off the top of my head here`s a quick list of things you will need.

Gearbox with slave cylinder
Gearbox crossmember
Front half of propshaft
Spigot bearing
Clutch and flywheel (a good opportunity to fit a lightened flywheel  )
Flywheel bolts
Flywheel locking tool , easy to make yourself.
Pedal box
Copper/nickel brake pipe
brake pipe flaring tool
Gearstick
Rubber gator and adaptor plate for gear stick ( rivets to the transmission tunnel)
Silver or wood surround
Leather surround

If you have cruise fitted then you will want a clutch switch for the cruise loom
If it was me I would also use the fuel,injection loom from a manual car too and remove the auto loom and ECU.
I`d also fit two new propshaft rubber couplings and a new propshaft centre bearing carrier too as these can perish.

[Jim]

One thing that`s,  often overlooked is the spigot bearing for the crank, make sure you have one of those, in fact off the top of my head here`s a quick list of things you will need.

Gearbox with slave cylinder
Gearbox crossmember
Front half of propshaft
Spigot bearing
Clutch and flywheel (a good opportunity to fit a lightened flywheel  )
Flywheel bolts
Flywheel locking tool , easy to make yourself.
Pedal box
Copper/nickel brake pipe
brake pipe flaring tool
Gearstick
Rubber gator and adaptor plate for gear stick ( rivets to the transmission tunnel)
Silver or wood surround
Leather surround

If you have cruise fitted then you will want a clutch switch for the cruise loom
If it was me I would also use the fuel,injection loom from a manual car too and remove the auto loom and ECU.
I`d also fit two new propshaft rubber couplings and a new propshaft centre bearing carrier too as these can perish.

I have all the parts

[2woody]

also.....

gearchange extension ( full - including mounting bracket to transmission tunnel with rubbers )

rubber cover for change extension with clips

exhaust support bracket

connector for reversing lights

downpipe nuts and gaskets

clutch pipes ( not of the make-your-own variety )

[serek]

One thing that`s,  often overlooked is the spigot bearing for the crank, make sure you have one of those, in fact off the top of my head here`s a quick list of things you will need.

Gearbox with slave cylinder
Gearbox crossmember
Front half of propshaft
Spigot bearing
Clutch and flywheel (a good opportunity to fit a lightened flywheel  )
Flywheel bolts
Flywheel locking tool , easy to make yourself.
Pedal box
Copper/nickel brake pipe
brake pipe flaring tool
Gearstick
Rubber gator and adaptor plate for gear stick ( rivets to the transmission tunnel)
Silver or wood surround
Leather surround

If you have cruise fitted then you will want a clutch switch for the cruise loom
If it was me I would also use the fuel,injection loom from a manual car too and remove the auto loom and ECU.
I`d also fit two new propshaft rubber couplings and a new propshaft centre bearing carrier too as these can perish.

why you need flaring tool??

surround panel on FL cars ane same on auto and manual cars

[Mr Gav]

One thing that`s,  often overlooked is the spigot bearing for the crank, make sure you have one of those, in fact off the top of my head here`s a quick list of things you will need.

Gearbox with slave cylinder
Gearbox crossmember
Front half of propshaft
Spigot bearing
Clutch and flywheel (a good opportunity to fit a lightened flywheel  )
Flywheel bolts
Flywheel locking tool , easy to make yourself.
Pedal box
Copper/nickel brake pipe
brake pipe flaring tool
Gearstick
Rubber gator and adaptor plate for gear stick ( rivets to the transmission tunnel)
Silver or wood surround
Leather surround

If you have cruise fitted then you will want a clutch switch for the cruise loom
If it was me I would also use the fuel,injection loom from a manual car too and remove the auto loom and ECU.
I`d also fit two new propshaft rubber couplings and a new propshaft centre bearing carrier too as these can perish.

why you need flaring tool??

surround panel on FL cars ane same on auto and manual cars

The clutch is hydraulic so you will need to make up a pipe from the master cylinder to the gearbox, unless you use one from a donor car.

[Mr Gav]

And then I`ve just read 2woody`s post about clutch pipes  oops

[serek]

I done few conversion , and always use all parts from doner car