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[Terbs]

To which hermit do you refer....I'll look him up in a couple of weeks

[Bigron]

IF he is still alive and kicking, he lives in a cave under ballard Down; the skippers of the Old Harry boat trips always wave to him, just to check that he is ok.

Ron.

[Terbs]

Knock me down with a feather. I have been going down there for 30 years, never knew that, or had any commentary on the boats about him. I'll make enquiries in September, and report back.
Once again...sorry Tommmm for off topic

[05omegav6]

And I thought you meant Sir Tigger...

[Jimbob]

Am I the only one thinking of this as the end reslit ?

[EMD]

 


The only snag sometimes is you take every step to make the prep perfect then a bloody
fly comes along and ruins the topcoat 

[LC0112G]

Hi.  I have a 2002 2.2 diesel estate, which I love.  Done 142k but runs like new.  However, I've got rust over the wheel arches on both sides.  I've had two bodyshop quotes - one for £500; one for £700.  Both say they can't offer any guarantees the rust won't come back.  Given market value of the car isn't worth probably much more than £500, does anybody know of any cheaper ways of resolving the problem.  Seems a great shame to have to say goodbye to the car for reasons of rust as in every other respect it's A1.  Many thanks.

It's basic bangernomics.

Option 1). You've got a car which is a known quantity and is worth £500 that requires £1K worth of tarting up. After the tarting up, it'll be worth what? £1K tops?

Option 2) .You buy a new (pre-owned) car for £??? which is an unknown quantity and may require a full service immediately - oils, filters, plugs, hbv, timing belt, water pump etc, plus it'll have rust hiding somewhere as well.

I had that dilemma recently - Failed the MOT on sill rot - ended up spending £2K+ for 4 new doors, 2 complete sills, rear bumper and 2 rear wheel arches. That's 9 panels, so about £200 per panel seems the going rate. If I can get 5 years use out of the car then £400 per year for a large presentable daily driver seems reasonable to me. My tame bodyshop man recons the Omegas are much better rust wise than Carltons & Senators - the inner sills were perfect on my car, as were the inner wheel arches. Most Carltons and Senators are air holes held together by rust in comparison.

So - if you're otherwise happy with your current car - good engine and drive train, its a good colour (like graphite mica  ), then spending the money may be worth it.   

[minifreek]

I didnt read through most of this thread as the spam was getting daft TBH so I shall skip the answers and hand you what I did to mine...

I cut out the rear arches that had rusted away and replaced with new metal cut to shape with a Dremel and heavy duty cutting discs.... replaced with metal cut to shape MIG welded, then blended with filler and repainted both arches.... one turned out OK the other turned out passable... so-far no rust is starting to poke out as yet, but only time will tell if it has been tackled or not...

I did enquire about replaceing both rear arches with repair panels but the cost of them was silly compared to how much the car is worth in real terms....

[jimbo125]

Have to try that on mine rear arches bubbling by rear bumper have done my first car a Opel Manta B series with the galvanised wire and filler. MOT and the examiner said you filled those seals but could not prove it as his magnet stuck to the wire under the filler. Job lasted 2 years until I sold the car. Got a dremel what sort of discs for chopping out the bad metal?

[peter the butcher]

I will have to get mine sorted before winter sets in too
As a side note, mate was looking at the front, around the passenger side, chassis, and noticed it was rusty, from the over flow pipe from the scuttle, 
sor
sory for the hijack

[Webby the Bear]

Replacement wheel arches from http://carz2.co.uk/...........cant remember how much

Cost of fitting both and painting was just under £400 from a local Northampton place.

 

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Classic Omega disease* - most of them get it, including both of mine. It's on the list to get done, once thee mechanical bits are up to scratch...

*a close relative of Dennis disease...

[jimbo125]

What's the best filler to achieve a reasonable job?

[johnnydog]

Not a cure for rusty arches, but if the decision is made to change a rusty car, and a mint low mileage one is found with no rust in the rear arches (not many of those about now, I admit, but...), then the following may be of help. I have done it on all my Omegas since I bought my first one in 2004, and not one of my current ones (I have five at present 😀) including the first one I bought in 2004 have rusty arches... I first did this experimenting with ways to stop the wheelarch rust on Vauxhall Cavaliers many years ago, as they suffered in the same way as the Omega.....
Remove all interior trim from the boot /tailgate area, including fuel cap motor, and the radio electric gubbins in the rear n/s corner on the Elite estate, so that you can gain as much access as possible to the inner arches. Rig up a small light so that it can pass through the upper holes around the wheelarch so you see where you are aiming. Use a thinish rust proofing compound such as Supertrol (very good at penetrating welded seams) or a Bilt Hamber product with a long flexible lance. Use a small hand held garden spray for the Supertrol product initially set on a jet rather than a fan spray (you will need the accuracy and distance of the jet to get right to the front of the wheelarch), but make sure you fully extract each rear seat belt before starting this and secure with a peg, or you will end up with the fluid all over the exposed part of the seat belt! Make sure the lance is correctly in the area around the lower wheelarch, and the start applying. Do it on a warm day, and you should see the fluid eventually start seeping from areas you never imagined, but at least you can see where it's gone and that it's going to protect your wheel arches from the dreaded tinworm. It won't stop rust that's already in there - it may slow it a little, but remember that if you plan on welding any already rusty areas, then the compound will ignite very easily! I would only recommend this for known immaculate arches, or ones that have been repaired properly with new metal.
I have no connection to these products; they are ones I've used and have liked. Waxoyl is ok, but you have to thin it right down with white spirit for it to seep and penetrate, otherwise it bridges seams.
Like I say, I have done it on all mine - they all stand out all year round, and none have got any rust whatsoever in the arches. Well worth half a days work one sunny afternoon, I would argue!

[jimbo125]

Bilt Hamber is that the 50 compound?