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[twiglet]

Could do with some advice on this one please guys...

I'm got a MFL estate here and it's got a problem with the deadlock system.  I can open the drivers door with the key, and also the tailgate, but the other 3 doors are deadlocked.

I've had the drivers door panel off, and checked all the connections there which all seem fine.  I've dropped the door lock mechanism off the back of the handle to exercise the deadlock micro switches manually.  Also unplugged the lock connector and shorted both circuits to earth.  I can hear a relay type click when I short the lock circuit, but bugger all when I short the unlock circuit.  Also checked the central locking fuse (20 IIRC) and that's ok.

I'm not necessarily looking for a permanent fix here, but I do need to get all the doors open, so any ideas or tricks to pop the locks would be ideal.

TIA 

[freecall666]

i used a tec2 a few weeks ago with same problem, fixed it. needed the car pass though.

[Andy B]

i used a tec2 a few weeks ago with same problem, fixed it. needed the car pass though.

  Another Rusty tale?

[hotel21]

i used a tec2 a few weeks ago with same problem, fixed it. needed the car pass though.

Talk us through it then please.....   

[freecall666]

no you want to be like that not saying anything....

[twiglet]

Sorry to be a pain, but does any of this have any relevance to my original post? 

[Andy B]

Sorry to be a pain, but does any of this have any relevance to my original post? 

Sorry Twiglet, it has nothing at all to do with your post ............... like Rusty's freecall's suggestion 

[albitz]

No idea what your problem is,but might as well jump in and post something irellevant,as everyone else is.

[fiend61]

used a tec2 a few weeks ago with same problem, fixed it. needed the car pass though

i didnt do this    but on a serious note twiglet is this a car that you have just aquired ?? what i mean is has it done this since you have had it or has it just started to happen??
its just that many years ago (to long to think about) i had a carlton with the same problem    it turned out that the previous owner had a problem with the central locking and had changed the motor etc,  nothing wrong with that i hear people say    but it had been swapped with a rear motor     which caused the exact problem you are having 
now i might have typed all this for nothing when you say that you have had the car for ages and it has only just happened         

[twiglet]

You are 100% spot on mate! 

I bought the car a few months back, but only just got round to getting it back home today.  I knew it had this problem when I bought it, but it had no battery on it so I assumed it was related to that, and that all would be good once I juiced it up! Alas not. 

However... The previous owner did tell me that he had had issues with the drivers door motor and had fitted a replacement bought from Vxl for 60 quid!!!    Now, I wonder if they sold him a rear one...

I'll have a look tomorrow, and fingers crossed!! Thanks very much for that matey!! 

[fiend61]

yikes maybe got something right 

if not that twiglet use your car pass and get it tech2'd     

[Entwood]

i used a tec2 a few weeks ago with same problem, fixed it. needed the car pass though.

Strange that there's another official Tech2 on the forum that is not well advertised ...... and someone who knows how to use it better than our resident experts of long standing .......

(he said .. with his lingua firmly in his buccae)

[albitz]

Theres also another in Cambridgeshire,owned by a forum member who knows how to use it.

[twiglet]

Theres also another in Cambridgeshire,owned by a forum member who knows how to use it.

There certainly is, and he certainly does!  Top bloke actually!!  Just a shame about that fetish of his!! 

[dbug]

Theres also another in Cambridgeshire,owned by a forum member who knows how to use it.

There certainly is, and he certainly does!  Top bloke actually!!  Just a shame about that fetish of his!! 

So Rusty's in Cambridgeshire - didn't know that 

Probably better to try Serek - he's at Huntingdon 

Hope you get your problem sorted twiglet 

[sticka_v8_init]

Could do with some advice on this one please guys...

I'm got a MFL estate here and it's got a problem with the deadlock system.  I can open the drivers door with the key, and also the tailgate, but the other 3 doors are deadlocked.

I've had the drivers door panel off, and checked all the connections there which all seem fine.  I've dropped the door lock mechanism off the back of the handle to exercise the deadlock micro switches manually.  Also unplugged the lock connector and shorted both circuits to earth.  I can hear a relay type click when I short the lock circuit, but bugger all when I short the unlock circuit.  Also checked the central locking fuse (20 IIRC) and that's ok.

I'm not necessarily looking for a permanent fix here, but I do need to get all the doors open, so any ideas or tricks to pop the locks would be ideal.

TIA 

Wondering if you get the same relay response as above when you use the key in the drivers lock. If not, would it be worth holding the relevent microswitch in manually while pulling on the osr door pin with a bit of force 

[zirk]

Are we talking about the Diesel Estate here James?

[twiglet]

Are we talking about the Diesel Estate here James?

No Chris, the central locking seems to be working fine on the tractor mate. 

[Kevin Wood]

For a one-off unlocking of all the doors I would be inclined to remove the central locking ECU and administer a 12V pulse to the motor wiring directly.

Note that the switch behind the key switch is in series with a switch inside the driver's door locking motor, so for it to work the driver's door locking mechanism needs to be in the right state and the motor needs to contain the switch in the first place.

[twiglet]

Thanks Kevin.  Is it possible then that the replacement motor in the drivers door is in fact a passenger motor, and so doesn't contain the deadlock micro switch (seem to remember reading that somewhere on the forum) ?

As I don't have a spare motor to hand, I think the 12v direct to the motors is my best option.  Any idea which pins I need to short out, as there are quite a few going to the ecu?

[Andy B]

Thanks Kevin.  Is it possible then that the replacement motor in the drivers door is in fact a passenger motor, and so doesn't contain the deadlock micro switch (seem to remember reading that somewhere on the forum) ?

As I don't have a spare motor to hand, I think the 12v direct to the motors is my best option.  Any idea which pins I need to short out, as there are quite a few going to the ecu?

Front door motors are both the same, rears are different from the front but both rears are the same as each other. 

[zirk]

Are we talking about the Diesel Estate here James?

No Chris, the central locking seems to be working fine on the tractor mate. 

Ok, cool, dont forget though on that TD if dead locked and the Battery gets flat, the key wont open the dead lock, will need looking at one day.

[twiglet]

Are we talking about the Diesel Estate here James?

No Chris, the central locking seems to be working fine on the tractor mate. 

Ok, cool, dont forget though on that TD if dead locked and the Battery gets flat, the key wont open the dead lock, will need looking at one day.

I'd better let Paul know then, as he collected the TD today.  I mentioned to him to give you a shout for the spare key, rear headrests, etc. 

[twiglet]

Thanks Kevin.  Is it possible then that the replacement motor in the drivers door is in fact a passenger motor, and so doesn't contain the deadlock micro switch (seem to remember reading that somewhere on the forum) ?

As I don't have a spare motor to hand, I think the 12v direct to the motors is my best option.  Any idea which pins I need to short out, as there are quite a few going to the ecu?

Front door motors are both the same, rears are different from the front but both rears are the same as each other. 

Must have dreamt that bit then.    Hopefully someone can help with shorting the wires at the ecu, otherwise it's gonna be time to break out the angle grinder!! 

[Andy B]

Thanks Kevin.  Is it possible then that the replacement motor in the drivers door is in fact a passenger motor, and so doesn't contain the deadlock micro switch (seem to remember reading that somewhere on the forum) ?

As I don't have a spare motor to hand, I think the 12v direct to the motors is my best option.  Any idea which pins I need to short out, as there are quite a few going to the ecu?

Front door motors are both the same, rears are different from the front but both rears are the same as each other. 

Must have dreamt that bit then.    Hopefully someone can help with shorting the wires at the ecu, otherwise it's gonna be time to break out the angle grinder!! 

Senators had different passenger motors from the drivers, which IIRC were both different from the rears. 

[twiglet]

Just re-read KW's How2 on repairing a central locking motor...

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90642.0

He definately says that only the driver's motor contains the 2nd micro switch...

Trouble is, even if I dismantle this one and prove the micro switch is missing, I don't have a driver's one to put in place of it.  I wonder if anyone has one I could borrow... 

[Andy B]

....

He definately says that only the driver's motor contains the 2nd micro switch...
 .......

I was going off what I was told when I replaced my driver's door locking motor, and IIRC the marks around the securing screws would have suggested it had origianlly been used on the other side of the car. 

[twiglet]

....

He definately says that only the driver's motor contains the 2nd micro switch...
 .......

I was going off what I was told when I replaced my driver's door locking motor, and IIRC the marks around the securing screws would have suggested it had origianlly been used on the other side of the car. 

TBh honest Andy, I've always thought the same as you.  I'm sure when I've removed the from cars in the past, both front motors looked identical and had the same part number on them. 

Hopefully KW will be along soon to clear things up. 

[Andy B]

  .....
Hopefully KW will be along soon to clear things up. 

I bet Rob G will have a photo of all types first though 

[twiglet]

  .....
Hopefully KW will be along soon to clear things up. 

I bet Rob G will have a photo of all types first though 

No doubt mate!! 

[hotel21]

Part numbers for the front are the same, side to side.

Part numbers for the rear are the same, side to side.

Numbers are different front to rear though.

If you follow......   

[twiglet]

Part numbers for the front are the same, side to side.

Part numbers for the rear are the same, side to side.

Numbers are different front to rear though.

If you follow......   

I follow 100% mate.  It would just be nice to know what KW was referring to in his How2 (just under the 4th picture down...) 

[hotel21]

Part numbers for the front are the same, side to side.

Part numbers for the rear are the same, side to side.

Numbers are different front to rear though.

If you follow......   

I follow 100% mate.  It would just be nice to know what KW was referring to in his How2 (just under the 4th picture down...) 

Likewise, not sure what Kev means.  No doubt he will explain when he sees this as, to my mind, the part numbers are the same, front door to front door, so perhaps he is getting confuddled front to rear?  Dunno though, TBH....   

[Andy B]

Part numbers for the front are the same, side to side.

Part numbers for the rear are the same, side to side.

Numbers are different front to rear though.

If you follow......   

I'm sure I've got a feeling of deja vu! 

[hotel21]

Part numbers for the front are the same, side to side.

Part numbers for the rear are the same, side to side.

Numbers are different front to rear though.

If you follow......   

I'm sure I've got a feeling of deja vu! 

Best you leave your tactile manfriend out this thread Andypandy.....      

[Kevin Wood]

Just re-read KW's How2 on repairing a central locking motor...

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90642.0

He definately says that only the driver's motor contains the 2nd micro switch...

I say only the driver's door uses the 2nd microswitch - i.e. don't bother replacing it on a passenger door.

[twiglet]

Just re-read KW's How2 on repairing a central locking motor...

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90642.0

He definately says that only the driver's motor contains the 2nd micro switch...

I say only the driver's door uses the 2nd microswitch - i.e. don't bother replacing it on a passenger door.

Ah ok, that makes sense then.  So can you tell me how to put a +12v pulse direct to the motors please?

[Kevin Wood]

The guide was worded badly, on hindsight. I can see where it might have caused confusion. Apologies. Guide edited.

[Kevin Wood]

Just re-read KW's How2 on repairing a central locking motor...

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90642.0

He definately says that only the driver's motor contains the 2nd micro switch...

I say only the driver's door uses the 2nd microswitch - i.e. don't bother replacing it on a passenger door.

Ah ok, that makes sense then.  So can you tell me how to put a +12v pulse direct to the motors please?

It depends on the car config.

If it's a facelift with anti-theft you can try removing the ATWS ECU and find a Black and Red wire on pin 8, a Black and Yellow on Pin 7 and a Black and Blue wire on pin 10.

You may well find these colours on the non-alarm central locking ECU. Looks like the pin numbers are the same as well, actually.

One side of the motor feed is the black and red. The other side is either of the other two wires, depending on if it's deadlocked or not, and I can't remember which way round they are. The easiest thing to do is to connect the Black and Yellow and the Black and Blue together with a paperclip (say). Can just cut the wires from the connector and twist them together if it's a breaker, I suppose.

Now you need to supply power between these two and the Black and Red wire. I don't know which way round it will need to go to unlock. One way will drive the motors in the lock direction and the other in the unlock direction.

Get a 12V supply or jump start box, battery charger or something that will give you a DC supply and connect it one way round (just tap the wire to make the connection. the motors only need a quick pulse and they'll burn out if you connect them for any amount of time). If the doors unlock so much the better. If not, try the supply the other way round and, again, just give it a tap, just enough to unlock the doors.

[twiglet]

Just re-read KW's How2 on repairing a central locking motor...

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90642.0

He definately says that only the driver's motor contains the 2nd micro switch...

I say only the driver's door uses the 2nd microswitch - i.e. don't bother replacing it on a passenger door.

Ah ok, that makes sense then.  So can you tell me how to put a +12v pulse direct to the motors please?

It depends on the car config.

If it's a facelift with anti-theft you can try removing the ATWS ECU and find a Black and Red wire on pin 8, a Black and Yellow on Pin 7 and a Black and Blue wire on pin 10.

You may well find these colours on the non-alarm central locking ECU. Looks like the pin numbers are the same as well, actually.

One side of the motor feed is the black and red. The other side is either of the other two wires, depending on if it's deadlocked or not, and I can't remember which way round they are. The easiest thing to do is to connect the Black and Yellow and the Black and Blue together with a paperclip (say). Can just cut the wires from the connector and twist them together if it's a breaker, I suppose.

Now you need to supply power between these two and the Black and Red wire. I don't know which way round it will need to go to unlock. One way will drive the motors in the lock direction and the other in the unlock direction.

Get a 12V supply or jump start box, battery charger or something that will give you a DC supply and connect it one way round (just tap the wire to make the connection. the motors only need a quick pulse and they'll burn out if you connect them for any amount of time). If the doors unlock so much the better. If not, try the supply the other way round and, again, just give it a tap, just enough to unlock the doors.

This one's a MFL, but it has the locking motors with the same connectors as the FL's and it has the full anti-theft system, so I would imagine it should be the same as you describe.  I shall have a play and report back in due course.

Much abliged Kevin.