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Oh dear 

Check that the finance company are happy re tow bar before you sign... It isn't yours until it's paid for.

If a borrow money from a bank & I buy a car with it, I consider the car to be mine & I owe the bank £?? ??

There's an assumption...

And actually more stupid than borrowing against the car. Got both T shirts in XXXL

I've never borrowed against a car  but have borrowed to buy them. 

MOT passed today, phew! Thanks to all who have given advice and encouragement.
First MOT failed on emissions, serious crack in exhaust manifold likely cause. With new exhaust manifold fitted it struggled through on emisssions, but failed on handbrake, which mysteriously let me down when during the test the dynamic load caused the RH handbrake mechanism to collapse in some way. I drove it home and stripped the RH handbrake, found nothing obviously wrong and nothing broken, so I reassembled it with some less worn shoes. I had some more trouble with emissions, O2 loop was not always going into closed mode. I swopped MAF sensors twice and it changed things, but did not guarantee good behaviour. I submitted the car again anyway, and tester only retested what had failed before, so it passed.

Omega seats were only matt post 2002

Or put the stands on the rear chassis rails, assuming stands are long enough.


I feel your pain, as the Shag designated jacking and stand points are impossible to use at the same time at the back.

675 is spot on, 665 is not bad considering age/km

That's his own fault for buying 40 gallons of it

It was the first gallon that wrecked a £125 washer when it froze, neat.  Fortunately another 2 gallons in other cars did no lasting damage beyond being crap.

The other 7 gallons was used to clean the local sewers

Deep 8mm 1/4" ratchet and call it done

DO NOT under any circumstances jack the diff as it will kill the rear subframe mounts.

Using trolley jack, jack slightly ahead of centre bolt on front mount

Then position an axle stand at lowest setting in such a way that it is sitting under the plate just before the plate kicks up to the inner rear bolt.

Lower the jack and repeat the other side. Then jack again to raise the stands to a working height. Unless the jack is a foot wide, then it should all fit

Above is bollix... That's to say the long way around...

It's four 8mm hex screws and can be removed by opening the bonnet and without touching the bumper.

As for refitting the crash bar... The four nuts holding it to the brackets are alot easier to deal with than trying to undo the ones one the chassis rails... Easier to line up too not that you need to touch either

Its far easier to remove bumper than trying to get to the pesky screws by touch only.  FL bumper is off in less than 5 mins.

But if you can get to them by feel faster than that, then no need to pull it off

Thanks DG, that sounds almost like I could do that!
I did consider doing what you said, Andy, but I want to clean it thoroughly and see that it is clean because TB will bully me again for using inappropriate screenwash (technically called by him as "shite") and I don't want to have to stand in the naughty corner again - not for that, anyway! 

Ron.

That's his own fault for buying 40 gallons of it

The above method will be fiddly, kind of precision tetris. Un plug and move to one side the pumps and plumbing and it should jiggle out nicely