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Please play nicely.  No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....

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 1 
 on: Today at 01:53:00 
Started by xt600 - Last post by Doctor Gollum
Did you replace the valve stem seals whilst the engine was on bits :-\

 2 
 on: Yesterday at 18:03:46 
Started by Varche - Last post by Migv6 le Frog Fan
Change jobs.  :y ;D

 3 
 on: Yesterday at 16:56:43 
Started by Varche - Last post by TheBoy
Our company now provides zero parking and favours city centre locations, so driving not an option

 4 
 on: Yesterday at 16:53:36 
Started by aaronjb - Last post by TheBoy
The glues help create a barrier between print and bed so can aid removal

For most materials, 3dlac is an infrequent spray, my last can lasted 2 years. 

 5 
 on: Yesterday at 14:18:54 
Started by xt600 - Last post by xt600
Update: So, after I took the damaged piston to an engine specialist I was told it was fine, clean it up and stick it back in! I did this, honed all the cylinders and a new set of rings in each. Compression readings all looked good. The engine has been running fine since, and I was hoping that the continued oil burning was just the new rings bedding in. However, 8000 miles later and it's still smoking and burning oil!!!

 6 
 on: Yesterday at 12:47:12 
Started by Varche - Last post by Migv6 le Frog Fan
If like me you use trains approx. once a decade, then they are a novelty rather than a cause of annoyance.
As for buses - Im entitled to travel on them free now, but I still avoid them like the plague.
Used one in Romford nearly a year ago and was reminded why I hadnt been on one in over 40 years.
If the good Lord had intended us to use Buses, he wouldnt have invented Driving Licences.  :)

 7 
 on: Yesterday at 12:42:49 
Started by mantaray - Last post by Migv6 le Frog Fan
The link to the stainless pipe is very useful as they are difficult to source these days.  :y

 8 
 on: Yesterday at 12:38:39 
Started by mantaray - Last post by Andy B
You can find stainless steel pipes here https://acsparts.biz/en/cooling-pipe-90411629-opel-ss/
Never used this ACS part but I'm sure it's the same quality level as their oil cooler :y

4 things to know, as it happened when I changed mine this summer :
- The new thermostat housing can have higher cast's dimensions where you put the bolts. I grinded the aluminum of the housing to reuse original bolts.
- The original pipe was very very difficult to remove, even if it was free from any bolt, still impossible to extract. I used a heatgun to locally heat the pipe where it's inside the thermostat housing, in order to dissolve the crap around the o-rings, and it finally worked, without breaking anything.
- Can be useful to remove the 3 electrical plugs aside the ECU box, to clear the space and access.
- New o-rings ordered separately felt very thin and I was not confident with them. I put some Loctite 5923 inside the housing (because if you put directly on the pipe you need too much dexterity to avoid choping the loctite when passing through the tunnel).

I don't know if I'm clear because I feel that I can use more precise vocabulary, which, as a French baguette, I don't have  :D

Very clear!  :y  :y

 9 
 on: Yesterday at 11:36:50 
Started by Varche - Last post by STEMO
Public transport
I know. I was thinking of getting the train over to Liverpool on Thursday, which might have been ok :-\
But the thought of getting around once I was there put me right off the idea.

 10 
 on: Yesterday at 10:48:44 
Started by aaronjb - Last post by Viral_Jim
The standard hyper is card spool usually, not an issue, just make sure you don’t damage the edges.

This is similar to what id seen online. I may end up printing some spool rings to sit round them - and to use up the w@nk filament we have left over.

Oh, and to protectb bed sheet coating, use so print spray. My preferred is3dlac but glue sticks, hairspray, whatever. Suspect you use something on ender anyway


Honestly I never have. Rightly or wrongly I'd always seen warping / poor bed adhesion to be a sign I needed to dial in my settings better (gluesticks being a common crutch in this scenario from what I've seen) and my ender came with a magnetic flexi bed sheet which I'd considered to be a semi-consumable that I would replace as and when, given they are <£10. Never needed to though - it looks a bit tired now, but still fully functional after 2 yrs.

That said, the K2 is going to print an order of magnitude faster than the ender, so additional stick would probably come in handy. Looking at the 3DLAC - do you need to spray the bed every time, or is it a bit like rainex where a coating is formed that you topup periodically? Also, can you spray it on and leave it? With cloud access I can see me printing from remote locations (think the office when I should be working, but I'm not), so having the printer ready to go would be a plus.

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