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Messages - Kevin Wood

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1
's just Darwin at work. :y

2
My Omega is knocking on 230k miles, I use 5w30 in it and it doesn't burn a drop.

There is no point over thinking it and the difference in viscosity between grades in not huge anyway. Just use what the manufacturer recommends. I am not really a fan of semi synthetic when you can get fully synthetic almost as cheap these days but then I CBA to change the oil every 3k either. ;)

With an unknown history a few quick changes with cheap oil might be a decent idea in the light of recent experience.

3
Omega General Help / Re: V6 cambelt kit
« on: Yesterday at 14:35:10 »
Yep, no V6 cam belt kits include the water pump as it's not even driven by the cam belt.

Given the quality of recent factor water pumps (and I think a few gen ones have died early too) I personally wouldn't change a V6 water pump unless it failed.

It's quite unlikely that it'll disturb the cam belt if it does die.

4
General Car Chat / Re: Twin engined cars
« on: Yesterday at 14:03:23 »
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phQfA5-DL1I

Shame Tiffany Dell broke it, mind. ::)

5
Omega General Help / Re: V6 cambelt kit
« on: Yesterday at 14:00:19 »
QH, kit uses skf bearings and gates or Conti belt, swapping the back plates is all you do,...
Yep, every variety of kit I have seen has had exactly the same SKF bearings. It really doesn't matter what make you pick.

6
Omega General Help / Re: V6 cambelt kit
« on: Yesterday at 11:45:10 »
If you want an exact match for your engine you need to match it against the engine number as there were several different variants of the 3.2 kit.

But.. it really isn't an issue to swap the pulleys to your original casting and the kits for the older engines often go for silly cheap prices as I suspect the demand is falling off for these.

7
Omega General Help / Re: V6 cambelt kit
« on: Yesterday at 08:08:46 »
As long as it's for the right engine family you can make any variant of the kit work. You might need to swap the upper 2 pulleys over to the backplate already on the engine and, on the later 2.6/3.2 you might end up with an adjustable lower pulley where the original was fixed but it should fit.

8
General Car Chat / Re: Oil consumption of old cars.
« on: Yesterday at 00:21:24 »
My Ital van, 1.3 A series, used 4l of oil a day (and 2l of coolant). So that was about 1l per 50 miles.

Granted, it was ragged to within an inch of its life every second of the day.

My Ital 1.7  8) didn't burn oil.

It used to drip onto the hot exhaust, creating a smoke screen that prevented tailgaters. ;D

Amazing that they knew how Audi drivers would develop way back in 1981.

9
General Car Chat / Re: secrets of the lost Fords never made
« on: 19 November 2018, 09:33:45 »
You're confusing Cologne and Essex engines! A 2.8i will happily hit the rev limiter in the first four gears(which is about 6k); an Essex is running out of puff at 5, and done by 5.5 if your mechanical sympathy is turned off. If you're daft enough to remove the rev limiter from a 2.8i(it's on the rotor arm) it's easy to blow them up. The Essex can be improved by milling out the centre of the plenum under the carb, with no other mods it will eventually hit 6k, but do it frequently and you'll be resetting the valve clearances. Both use the same 3.02 diff ratio and similar diameter tyres.
Both suffer from timing gear failure, and the oil pump hex drive is truly shit. And they're heavy.

Possibly I am. Both are regarded as rather asthmatic boat anchors in the kit car world, and that Granada test drive told me why. ;)

A Rover V8 is a horribly flawed engine, but even they are lighter, more powerful, make a nicer noise and are more reliable.

10
General Car Chat / Re: secrets of the lost Fords never made
« on: 18 November 2018, 20:14:31 »
....
Back in the mid nineties a woman I know owned a 2.8i with a 5 speed box.

It needed  thrashing to within an inch of it's life to have any meaningful acceleration due to a combination of leggy gearing and a lack of torque at low revs. I know the V6 Essex lump has been described as a 'boat anchor' but at least it had good low speed torque.

Turbo Technics (blast from the past but still trading I believe) did a nice job of resolving that. I was a member of Capri Club International (membership card still comes in handy as an ice scraper) and mentioned the mod to my mate. He had it done by them and it flew.  :y

If the Cologne engine didn't have low speed torque I don't know what it did have. It was all over by about 5,000 RPM too, from what I recall, hence the gearing. ;D

I remember my Dad trying to decide between a 12v Granada and a 24v Senator back in the early 90s. It was hardly a difficult decision. ;D

11
General Discussion Area / Re: annoying drivers
« on: 18 November 2018, 20:09:31 »
I don't like driver aids. It has produced the lazy disinterested drivers we are all complaining about.

Couldn't agree more. Give new drivers a Lotus 7 with a Ford side valve engine and, only when they can drive that without messing up should they get any toys other than an oil pressure light. :y

12
General Car Chat / Re: secrets of the lost Fords never made
« on: 18 November 2018, 20:02:46 »
Talk of Capri's always reminds me of a girl called Amanda that me and my mates all lusted after when we were about 19 or so.  :-*

She was hot, knew it and thought she was too good for the likes of us!  :(   Anyway she got a new boyfriend, who was a bit older, drove a 2.8i Capri and was a bit of a self-abuser to be honest.  ::)

One day walking past his car in the car car park we spotted a set of footprints on the inside of the windscreen!  :)  Oh how we laughed!  ;D

He probably bought them as transfers from Halfords. ;D

13
Actually, now you have the sump off, I would take a peek at one or two of the main / big end bearings. That will tell you everything you need to know about whether it's worth persevering.

If you do, it's vital you mark and keep the bearing caps and bearings  the right way so they go back as they came off  :y

top end cam housings will starve of oil long before the crank though normally

Yes, of course. Everything needs to go back exactly as it was.

.. and whilst the top end might be starved first, the bottom end will be the most prone to damage when the engine's driven under load.

If the top end has suffered, popping a 2nd hand head on would be an easy fix. If the bottom end bearings have suffered, it probably need a complete stripdown and rebuild.

14
Actually, now you have the sump off, I would take a peek at one or two of the main / big end bearings. That will tell you everything you need to know about whether it's worth persevering.

15
General Discussion Area / Re: Hi
« on: 16 November 2018, 23:40:39 »
Good to hear from you. :y

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