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[ttjjww75]

Hello, there have done some searching to find lots of help on failed crank sensor after following the guides I have just replaced mine, I did this following paper clip test & got codes
1-9 incorrect RPM signal pointing to Crank Sensor &
8-6 "Injector valve 6 voltage low)  ( I can not find what this is, is it HT leads?) 

After replacing the crank sensor like for like with new I still get codes 1-9 & 8-6

the symptoms of rough running / judder still persist with engine light on.

Should I go ahead with HT lead replacement? will this cure misfire / judder?

   

[Marks DTM Calib]

I shall split this and move it to a new thread in the help section.

The injector 6 fault tells you that there is an issue with injector 6, I have seen this on two occasions:

1) Following somebody removing the inelt by dissconnecting each injector plug rather than using the multiplug at the rear of the engine, the injector plugs can be hard to get back on correctly and hence sometimes work loose.

2) A brake in the wire near the multiplug at the rear of the engine.

Either way its a plenum off job to check and inspect them both.

[ttjjww75]

Many thanks for your fast response I have found so much help on here over the years

OK, I shall refrain from replacing HT leads as I was barking up the wrong tree,
any further guidance would be appreciated can you remember if this also
had the symptom of 1-9 incorrect rpm as I suspicious I may have just replaced
a duff unit with a non working new Bosch crank sensor. car has done 78K from 1998
so I guess it would not hurt...

[kcl]

Many thanks for your fast response I have found so much help on here over the years

OK, I shall refrain from replacing HT leads as I was barking up the wrong tree,
any further guidance would be appreciated can you remember if this also
had the symptom of 1-9 incorrect rpm as I suspicious I may have just replaced
a duff unit with a non working new Bosch crank sensor. car has done 78K from 1998
so I guess it would not hurt...

You will get code 19 every time when reading codes if the engine is not running and that is normal 

[Jimbob]

Many thanks for your fast response I have found so much help on here over the years

OK, I shall refrain from replacing HT leads as I was barking up the wrong tree,
any further guidance would be appreciated can you remember if this also
had the symptom of 1-9 incorrect rpm as I suspicious I may have just replaced
a duff unit with a non working new Bosch crank sensor. car has done 78K from 1998
so I guess it would not hurt...

You will get code 19 every time when reading codes if the engine is not running and that is normal 

Wrong sorry, 31 you get when the engine isnt running.

19 is ALWAYS indicative of a problem (even if no symptoms currently showing)

[Marks DTM Calib]

Replacing the crank sensor was a good move, code 19 is a sign its getting 'tired' and would let you down in the future.

Sort your injector fault and you should be back on 6 cylinders again

[Lazydocker]

Just to add, I've had a car that the code 19 still showed after a new sensor was fitted. Once cleared it was fine

There were no symptoms and no issues with the new sensor though... It just needed clearing

[ttjjww75]

ok plenum off
crank sensor replaced
injector loom? 7 spades on plug connector they appear ok?
trying to get either yellow connection off or yellow to injector plug off, Any tips?

as you can tell this a live repair, all help appreciated, dont want to break an injector!

almost tempted to get the whole fuel rail off.....! 

[Lazydocker]

Basically you need to check the wiring to No 6 injector. Make sure the plug is all the way home first, then check the big grey plug and the wiring between. Might be an idea to get a continuity tester on it

[ttjjww75]

Rail off, still no obvious cause,
being looking at cylinder 6 injector connections
I take it this is definitely the right area,
don't know how to do a continuity test or what i am looking for
I do have a multi meter where would I begin?
can I test with engine apart? 

[ttjjww75]

ok, Ive done some basic ohms readings

the plug coupler is labelled thus on the fuel rail side
  [ --------- ]
  [  G   F  E   ]     G E are large spade connectors
  [               ]     ABCDF are all small
  [  A B C D   ]
  [---------  ]

testing for ohms between terminals on the injector rail
I get G-F = nothing no reading
G to others 15 ohms to all terminals

I get E-F nothing no reading
E to all others 31 ohms

am I barking up the right tree? is circuit F open?
could it be the injector?


 

[ttjjww75]

 I think I am getting there I have split the loom down to see what corresponds to what
& G is common to all injectors, F is for cylinder 6 not sure what they all are but i' m sure that will be recorded some where, I have found that I get 15 ohm on good injector (opposite 6) but nothing on number 6. I have never done any electrical work other than fitting a stereo...

would I be right in thinking I have a defective, injector, do I replace 1 or all I am sure there will be a thread somewhere on this fantastic site...........

also best place to get one, im sure its a Bosch part!   

 

[Marks DTM Calib]

15 ohm is about right for the injector, are you saying that you get nothing when measuring the injector directly (e.g. directly onto the injector terminals?).

[Entwood]

Next step, check cbetween terminal F and the end of the wire at the injector ... you are looking for 0 ohm  ... this is the continuity check .. if the wire is broken it will show infinite ohms .. open circuit.  If the wire is good .. 0 ohms then it looks like it might be the injector.

I'm reading it that you have checked G - common , to each terminal in the block, not directly to the injector

[ttjjww75]

yes that is what i get nothing on the injector terminals for no 6