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Please play nicely.  No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....

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Messages - zYx

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16
I found the values, thanks  :y 👍🏿
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90519.0

Engine running creates water moisture this mixing with oil creates mayo, if the engine does not get up to full temp.

If you do a decent commute e.g. like my 25 mile each way, you never have a problem with mayo.
I gathered that, thanks  ::)

17
I can't fin torque settings, but I know they're here somewhere. I promise I won't be touching the head gaskets :P
Please help me find them for Y32SE :P

18
Get a push bike or add another 25 miles to your commute.

The mayo is from stupidly short journeys.

The noise is probably due to the breathers being full of sludge, which coincidentally, is why all the oil seals are leaking.

These engines will easily do 300K, yours will be lucky to see 65K unless you show it some love.

That's what I thought, but some people automatically think it's the head gasket. I know when i go for a long drive the mayo is gone.

Someone also told me it's because of the breathers.

I've been thinking about getting a bike tho ;p

19
Yes, the problem is that my workplace is 1 mile from home :p but I try using it as much as I can. Why are you saying not to bother with heads? 

Thank you for this. Please do tell me how crankshaft seal is replaced? I've never done it.

Also, when I accelerate heavily-ish, I can hear a strange noise coming from the engine, exhaust manifold or whatever. Sounds like an old engine (if it makes sense). What could this be? Manifold gaskets etc? I know it's not the rear half exhaust.

20
Hi all,

It's been a while, and I still drive my lovely Omega :P, it has 60k miles on the clock, but it looks like it needs new gaskets all over.
It leaks oil from somewhere, definitely from rocker covers and possibly from the front crankshaft seal. It's more intense since I used the engine flush recently when I was changing oil. I also get some mayonnaise so the head gaskets could also be replaced.

Do you have any hints and advice for me before I start?

I'll be replacing the bolts, and I'd need to know the correct torque settings for those. I'd appreciate if somebody could tell me what the settings are for all bolts I need to touch.

I'm also not sure about the cranshaft seal. How difficult is it to replace the seal?

Any help will be much appreciated.

21
Bluetooth just for phone? 2nd hand BT kits can be picked up for £15 delivered, for handsfree.
What ones work well with Bose audio system, because I tried the Parrot MKi9200 some time ago, installed by a "professional" and I could hear a clicking noise in all speakers. Any idea why?

As said before, the input isn't really suitable for anything more hi-fi than voice, and its mono
That's all I want to use it for. I have an iPod audio plugged in to a cd-changer audio. I don't really like listening to music via Bluetooth...
The reason why I'm thinking of using arduino is because I'd love to use the 2015 buttons to call/answer/dial and to see the signal and the network on the LCD screen :P

22
So you've built a full blown GSM phone onto your Arduino? Or have I misunderstood?

The (phone) Aux in is lo-fi, and for phone use only really.

Not yet, but I'm planning to replace Nokia box with a BT device not a phone. I thought I ask here first to see if there are any better solutions available. I actually had the Nokia-box out for a while now. I've been using my glove box as a... glove box  :P

PS. TheBoy, what did Eurotunnel do to you?


23
Maybe I will be able to do something using my arduino. What signal needs to go to mute to enable 'phone' in? Is it 5V or 12V?
Arduino? For what? Can't see that being of any use here  :-\

You've confuddled me now.


Aux in will take the input directly from any bluetooth car kit...  ...just not along with the Telematics without extra messing around

I want to use arduino instead of Nokia box and use it as it was built in. I'm currently looking into this.

I already use Line-in from my CD changer without any programming.

24
Omega General Help / Re: Alternators
« on: 22 January 2014, 09:51:33 »
I found the packaging:



BOSCH Voltage Regulator for 120AMP Alternator F00M144167 - 395
BOSCH Diodes/Rectifier F00M133259 - 850

25
Maybe I will be able to do something using my arduino. What signal needs to go to mute to enable 'phone' in? Is it 5V or 12V?

26
Omega General Help / Re: Alternators
« on: 19 January 2014, 22:47:44 »
I'm sure it'll be fine. 12 month warranty should cover you.

27
Omega General Help / Re: Alternators
« on: 19 January 2014, 17:53:42 »
Beware because a lot of people are using cheap Chinese components to refurbish them. I know I've got genuine Bosch parts.
Even that £60 could be a waste on money.

28
Omega General Help / Re: Alternators
« on: 19 January 2014, 15:54:57 »
Reckon that's enough. Got part numbers for diode and reg? :)

I should have the packaging somewhere. If I find it I'll post it.

29
Omega General Help / Re: Alternators
« on: 19 January 2014, 13:49:31 »
I found some pics:






30
Omega General Help / Re: Alternators
« on: 19 January 2014, 13:22:18 »
I fixed my alternator last year. I replaced everything, diodes and the voltage regulator and it works brilliantly.

I didn't have to replace diodes, but I did. It cost me £90, but I remember the voltage regulator was around £45.

They quoted me £250 for a new (read: refurbed) alternator).

Which, on exchange of the old one, you would of had a refund, no?

Making total cost of a new alternator about £110 odd. Iirc. Although there may have been a price increase since.

Just make sure they give you the right one. As the 3.0 doesn't fit. Spades are too wide and there not enough slack in the loom to the terminals.

I heard of it, but I don't remember anybody telling me about the refund there and then. Still £20 cheaper and now I know how to fix'em :P :D

You forgot to do the guide for other members then? ;)

Yes and I regret it. I think I might have some pics somewhere.

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