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[TheBoy]

I need a brickwall to give myself a headache.


The fact that the tensioner moves throughout the cycle shows that it moves thoughtout the cycle. Obviously.

The tensioner is ONLY correct at that ONE specific point, and ONLY if the crank and cams are in that very SPECIFIC position.

[Andy B]

I need a brickwall to give myself a headache.. ....

I'll share your wall ......... cos I'm feeling the same.  :-?

[Elite Pete]

Hope you have not got more than 2 teeth out else good night 24 valves  :-?

I dont think it would be running if it had 24 bent valves

I have driven an Omega with bent valves for about 60 miles. .

I still have a chuckle about that

[Bent valve]

I need a brickwall to give myself a headache.. ....

I'll share your wall ......... cos I'm feeling the same.  :-?

Just agree to disagree then For what its worth,  I once watched a mobile mechanic replace a belt kit on a 2.5 vectra, he set it at tdc , put 2pairs of finger grips on the cam pulleys set the tensioner to whatever, and the car ran perfectly. just lucky I guess

[Elite Pete]

I need a brickwall to give myself a headache.. ....

I'll share your wall ......... cos I'm feeling the same.  :-?

Just agree to disagree then For what its worth,  I once watched a mobile mechanic replace a belt kit on a 2.5 vectra, he set it at tdc , put 2pairs of finger grips on the cam pulleys set the tensioner to whatever, and the car ran perfectly. just lucky I guess

Cowboy on a horse

[hotel21]

Thread pruned of un-needed posts.

Please keep on topic.

ta...   

[Kevin Wood]

We have strayed off topic and are no longer helping the OP.

He needs to refit the cam belt using the proper locking kit and following the correct procedure then determine if the engine has suffered any damage.

Locking

[Jimbob]

Unlocked as really not helping OP who needs this thread..

Ok, NO MORE DISCUSSIONS ON YES / NO TO TIMING KIT IN THIS THREAD. (they WILL be deleted)

The car does need its timing checked definately.

BUT youve also stripped / replaced a lot more than that.

You say you had a flashing and solid EML.  Do the pedal trick and post the codes, this could yet be something unrelated to the belt.

[DTC]

Thanks for the advice guys, I have purchased the locking kit this morning and will start again tonight after work.
I don't think there is any damage - it just runs lumpy.

Do I need to physically move the cams before I lock them out if one is slightly out of line?

Are there any specific markings on the crank so I can make sure it is at TDC?

[Dishevelled Den]

Unlocked as really not helping OP who needs this thread..

Well done Jb 8-) - this thread is the essence of the OOF, it's been fascinating and an object lesson in how things can go radically wrong if shortcuts are taken when working on this engine in particular.

It will also be interesting to see if DTC gets a resolution to his problem.

[Jimbob]

Thanks for the advice guys, I have purchased the locking kit this morning and will start again tonight after work.
I don't think there is any damage - it just runs lumpy.

Do I need to physically move the cams before I lock them out if one is slightly out of line?

Are there any specific markings on the crank so I can make sure it is at TDC?

PLEASE before you undo as much as another bolt, please do a pedal test for fault codes,  car doesnt need to be running, so will get you a known point snapshot before you strip down again and add more unknowns.  (link in my sig if you dont know how  )

could really be as simple as one coil pack not connected properly.

(but yes, adjust the timing properly when you get the kit)

[Lazydocker]

To the OP, I'm sure you said in another thread that you've bought the DVD? That explains it very well

The crank locking tool will ensure you position the crank correctly. If the timing is out to a point where you can't get the cam locks in, you may have to adjust them individually but wait until you've checked.

If you do have to move the cams independently you must turn the crank back to 60 degrees(?) (someone will confirm that) before TDC to avoid damage.

[Jimbob]

[split] [link=http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1304930089/0#0][splithere][/link][splithere_end]

[feeutfo]

DTC needs to check his DTC's if you ask me... (Detected trouble codes) the orange light tells you there's a problem.

The pedal trick will tell you what that problem is without even opening the bonnet!!!

It's true to say "some" engines don't need a locking kit although it's wise to acquire one if available. The omega v engine however is differamt as the cam position needs adjusting to the nearest fraction of a millimeter to get it right. While it's possible to get the belt kit fitted without a locking kit as I did exactly that in my pre forum days, I have since learned from members here that it simply is not possible to do it accurately without a locking kit.

Later 2.6 and 3.2 engines have a fixed pilluy that sets cams 3+4 automatically, so unless the teeth are miles out there then 1+2 might be your issue.
But as JB says, do the pedal trick first, could just be a dodgy plug connection or sumat daft.... Hopefully.

Post is an opinion for the OP.

[feeutfo]

Thanks for the advice guys, I have purchased the locking kit this morning and will start again tonight after work.
I don't think there is any damage - it just runs lumpy.

Do I need to physically move the cams before I lock them out if one is slightly out of line?

Are there any specific markings on the crank so I can make sure it is at TDC?

that's what the crank lock in the locking kit is for. You'll see.