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1876

Omega General Help / Re: Catalytic converters

« on: 12 January 2016, 21:00:16 »

There's actually no problem with the cats themselves on my 3.2 estate, its just that the ends were cut off and the stainless exhaust sections welded to them. I want to replace the stainless and go back to steel. I have thought about cutting the pipes, and then using a jointing piece similar to those seen on Audi's, but would mean cutting the ends off the new steel centre pipes to use the clamped jointing piece. It's basically a clamped sleeve to join two sections of exhaust that butt up to each other. The only issue I can see is whether there would be a need to have a degree of flexibity in a joint to allow for a slight amount of engine movement? Audi's have a braided flexible joint at the bottom of the front pipe for this purpose. As it is at the moment, being totally rigid, I am getting a blow on the manifold which maybe down to there not being the correct  amount of flexibility in the front/centre pipes? Keeping the original down pipes and cats with new steel centres pipes is the cheaper option, but new cats and centre pipes would hopefully prevent future problems. Decisions, decisions - any thoughts out there?

1877

Omega General Help / Re: Catalytic converters

« on: 12 January 2016, 19:04:10 »

One problem I can see with the info you have posted - the centre pipes are originally flared at the end with an oval loose flange that bolts to the end of the front pipe. If your stainless section has been welded to the front pipe, you will probably have lost this flared joint and flange. Post how you get on Andy - I, for one, would be interested to know.

1878

Omega General Help / Re: Saloon or Estate

« on: 12 January 2016, 16:00:16 »

As far as saloon or estate, only you can answer that one! Looks, preferences, personal uses for the car come into it. I would go for the best example you can find irrespective of body style, and if you subsequently decide you prefer the other then at least you will have got a good one until you find a replacement. I think estates will hold their value better. Ultimately, good ones are getting few and far between. You need to make decision and go for it - you won't regret it!

1879

Omega General Help / Re: Saloon or Estate

« on: 12 January 2016, 15:28:04 »

Having had a 2.2, 2.6 and a 3.2, I wouldn't have another 2.2 (personally) as they are ok on the motorway once on the move, but generally under powered. They are noisy in my opinion. I like the note of the V6, and they are more pleasurable to drive and sound better, but the 3.2 is a beautiful car - more responsive than the 2.6. The 2.6 is slightly better on fuel, but there's not much in it in reality. I would definitely recommend the 3.2, but they seem to command more money and are more difficult to find. The trim level is higher in the 3.2 as they were all Elites (except Police Spec). All depends what you want out of it at the end of the day - a workhorse, a tow car or a bit of luxury with the toys!

1880

Omega General Help / Re: Catalytic converters

« on: 12 January 2016, 01:11:51 »

I've got the same question about replacement cats for a 3.2 (and before anyone asks why, the joker who fitted the stainless steel exhaust before I bought the car cut the flange off the end of the cats and welded the stainless pipes onto the remaining pipe, effectively making the cats and centre pipes one piece). I could cut the end off a knackered exhaust and weld it back onto the original cat, but it would be getting the angle and length bob on that would concern me. I've been told by two motor factors that BM Cats are good.
Incidentally, Vauxhall parts lists show a different part number for genuine 2.6 and 3.2 cats. No doubt aftermarket cats will show the same item for both models.
Anyone any experience of BM cats, or knows the difference between GM 2.6 and 3.2 cats, and the possible effects fitting aftermarket (ie that may trigger the EML?)

1881

Omega General Help / Re: Which Water pump? OEM or Pattern: not as easy as first thought..

« on: 07 January 2016, 21:15:27 »

If it can spin freely by hand, it's generally on its way out. As said, you should be able to turn it by hand, but with some effort.

1882

Omega General Help / Re: Battery Change out - radio work around

« on: 06 January 2016, 23:36:29 »

Why not buy a memory saver gismo, such as the Draper EOBD 22231, that simply plugs into the OBD port, and to a separate 12v power source, so everything is out of the way of the leads on the car battery. If you accidentally knock one of the leads off using jump leads when doing the swap (which is easily done), you will have lost the code and that will cost a few quid to retrieve. I use an old 12v household alarm battery which is small and lightweight to handle with the memory saver. It doesn't need to have much charge to do the job. Works every time. Not so much a problem with Elites with the NCDC 2013/5 as they retain the code when the battery is disconnected, but the others need it. Less than £20 incl postage on EBay. There are other cheaper versions that probably work as effectively. Incidentally, some people say you can leave the engine running whilst you quickly swap batteries over, but I personally wouldn't recommend it.

1883

Omega General Help / Re: winscreen wipers

« on: 06 January 2016, 23:11:26 »

I've never had any problem using genuine GM ones in the past. I've also used Champion, who used to make the GM blades (they were identical; one had GM stamped on them whereas the Champion had Champion - obviously...!!) - whether they still make them for GM today, I'm not sure. The GM blades and Champion were cheap to buy and performed well, with no juddering, smearing or noise. I've always found the Bosch blades had quite a bulky mounting clip, and were more expensive, but didn't perform particularly well.

1884

Omega General Help / Re: Bad Idling in Y26SE, rpm drops and engine "shakes several times in a minute

« on: 04 January 2016, 20:17:47 »

"By all means, remove it and clean it before refitting correctly, but it shouldn't need sticking on. Ever."


HKT - I can't quite see where the 'sticking it on' comes into it. All I am suggesting is when refitting the lower seal, possibly apply a small amount of the traditional windscreen sealer to the inner lip of the lower seal where it contacts the glass. Its not sticking it, just sealing it because with age they may not fit as well as did when new. Its only my suggestion - if you choose to refit yours dry, then that's absolutely fine. As already said, I've done it with mine, and it worked for me. Then Polilara can make his own choice with the suggestions offered. 

1885

Omega General Help / Re: Which Water pump? OEM or Pattern: not as easy as first thought..

« on: 04 January 2016, 16:33:32 »

Just as a comparison, when the last Audi S4 was introduced in 2009 ish, many were recalled to have the plastic water pump replaced due to coolant leaks. The plastic water pumps were distorting, and they were replaced with metal water pumps. No further issues....

1886

Omega General Help / Re: Bad Idling in Y26SE, rpm drops and engine "shakes several times in a minute

« on: 03 January 2016, 19:59:53 »

I had a new GM screen fitted back in approx 2007/8, complete with new GM rubbers, lower seal, frame etc. I did notice that when fitted (dry) the new lower seal fitted perfectly, and tight to the screen, and I never had any water getting under the scuttle. Can only presume that older rubbers deform slightly and get mis-shapen, and when refitted dont seal as well as they originally did. Hence the need, I felt, for a small amount of grey windscreen sealant.

1887

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: boot open button on front consol not working.

« on: 03 January 2016, 19:40:36 »

This button is designed so that the boot cannot be opened by accidentally touching the switch. You have to press and hold it in for a couple of seconds and you should hear the boot lid pop open.

1888

Omega General Help / Re: Bad Idling in Y26SE, rpm drops and engine "shakes several times in a minute

« on: 03 January 2016, 11:52:18 »

Both the rubber and the frame need to be transfered to any new windscreen being fitted.
[/quote]

I can't see there would be a problem should a new windscreen be needed in the future, as you are only putting a small amount between the glass and inside edge of the lower seal, not sticking the frame with a non removable substance. The grey windscreen sealant is easily removeable. Now if you used Gripfill (as has been mentioned) or windscreen glass bonding, that would be a different story......

1889

Omega General Help / Re: rear end rattle/knock.

« on: 03 January 2016, 00:24:06 »

I would check the easy things first, like the rear shocks to make sure one hasn't failed, or that a pigtail hasn't broken off one of the rear springs.

1890

Omega General Help / Re: Bad Idling in Y26SE, rpm drops and engine "shakes several times in a minute

« on: 03 January 2016, 00:18:03 »

Even if the hard plastic trim and lower windscreen seal are in good order and positioned correctly, a small amount of the permanently flexible old style windscreen sealer applied between the glass and the inner lip of the lower rubber seal won't go amiss and prevents any water running off the bottom of the screen going between the seal and under the scuttle trim into the foam. It can be easily cleaned up, isn't visible and still allows the rubber seal being removed in the future, but in my view is a 'belt and braces' practice to prevent any water from getting into the engine bay via the foam.
I had the damp foam problem and having checked the windscreen trims / seals were in order, applied this sealant and it worked for me.