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[dbdb]

Today I converted my alloy cansiter and paper element oil filter to the cheaper and easier spin on one, following the excellent guide http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90579.msg1155460#msg1155460 thanks for that .

Some things that may help  - my cannister didn't have the 27mm nut inside so I had to use the 12mm allen key (actually almost 12.5mm).  Luckily I had both the key and the 27mm socket but they are quite obscure tools to me.

The lid came off easily.  This is despite National Disgrace Tyres clearly overtightening it last time.  I wonder if the common problem is  them being tightened while hot but trying to undo them while cold?  Mine was hot for both.

The inside retaining bolt came off surprisingly easily too.  I had a club hammer ready but it wasn't needed.

Getting the double threaded adapter in tightly is a bit tricky, it must be tempting to put a pipe wrench on it but that would damage the filter thread. If I had 2 M18 nuts to hand I would have used the old trick of tightening one against the other and undoing when the thread lock had set.  What I did instead was to put a small expanding bolt inside the adapter, expand it, screw the adapter in using it,  then contract the bolt and remove it.  Worked well.

So now I have an alloy canister in good nick with seal, bolt and lid.  Is it worth putting it in the for sale section now I finally have enough posts?  I suspect people only need them immediately so there is no demand.  Plus anyone with a broken cannister would be better off fitting the adapter. 

Having run some 5W30 through for 300 miles to clean out the crap I now have oil so clean you can only tell it is not above the top mark by pressing a tissue against the dipstick

[jonny2112]

Good result 
You seem happy which is the main thing, but your tips will no doubt help others (me included) who may decide to go down the conversion route 

[feeutfo]

Once its been removed and re fitted correctly, to the correct torque/not over tightened/or even just done up sensibly, I have no problem at all with canister cap. So I don't see the advantage of converting from paper filters to traditional type.

Suspect that vx specifying ridiculously long service intervals sees the oil on the thread dry out and glue the lid on. Chrystalised oil lumps being evident on the threads....Along with work shop monkeys swinging off the wrench to re fit.

[jonny2112]

Can't argue with that Chris. When I first got my FL I didn't really like the paper element type filter, and thought the canister (as on my MFL) was much handier. The fact that there was a guide to converting put it in my head, but tbh I haven't bothered, and although I consider it at every oil change, I don't have any problems with the existing set up.

[TheBoy]

I actually prefer the paper element type to spin on filters, much less messy. Probably kinder to the crank sensor as well, but who knows.

I wonder if conversion the other way is possible 

[Jimbob]

I didnt like the paper type that needed a 32mm socket or whatever it is, that one a 1/2 drive ratchet I always found awkward in the space.

The 'earlier' type that takes a 3/8's square drive (providing not overtightened) I find much easier.

all in all, probably prefer the spin on's though.

[TheBoy]

I didnt like the paper type that needed a 32mm socket or whatever it is, that one a 1/2 drive ratchet I always found awkward in the space.

The 'earlier' type that takes a 3/8's square drive (providing not overtightened) I find much easier.

all in all, probably prefer the spin on's though.

Mines the 24mm socket one.Only 24mm sockets I have are 1/2", though I only use the rachet to break the seal, after that I use an airwrench.

[dbdb]

I wonder if conversion the other way is possible 

I have the cannister if anyone wants it, I'd be surprised!

I can see the spin on might be messy if it is simply removed, the oil would drip down the engine block.  But if you whack a hole in the old one before removal with a screwdriver the oil should neatly drain into your recepticle. 

The main benefit of a spin on is not having to remove the paper element and having it drip oil down your sleeve.  There are other benefits eg National Disgrace Tyres screwed up my paper one (probably by not fitting a new seal) and it dripped a litre in day.  Even they would find it hard to screw up with a spin on.

[TheBoy]

The main benefit of a spin on is not having to remove the paper element and having it drip oil down your sleeve.

No, thats a primary advantage of the paper element one on Omega V6s IME.

There are other benefits eg National Disgrace Tyres screwed up my paper one (probably by not fitting a new seal) and it dripped a litre in day.  Even they would find it hard to screw up with a spin on.

Oh, I don't know, I've seen them put on so tight, that it all seperates on removal. Fortuantely not on an Omega, so I had room to work around it, as it would be a sod on an Omega with the limit access.

I've also had a spin-on come loose on my van, 3 miles after having it serviced by the company monkeys.

If you're at the mercy of mongrels who don't give a shit, you're knackered whatever you have.

[Nick W]

I find that by the time you've removed the cap and extracted the filter, all the oil in the housing has now run out the end, down your arm, onto the crossmember and to the ground.

With a spin-on, you loosen it with a strap wrench(if it doesn't by hand) which you then drop. Spin the filter off in one go and tilt it so that it's upright. If you're unlucky, there might be a small drip from the adapter. This is true of any spin-on fliter that's screwed on horizontally. Which is most of them.

[Andy H]

Loosen the cap and undo it far enough that it starts to drain, put a drip tray underneath.

Wait a minute for the oil to run out then undo the cap completely & remove.

Job done.

[TheBoy]

I find that by the time you've removed the cap and extracted the filter, all the oil in the housing has now run out the end, down your arm, onto the crossmember and to the ground.

With a spin-on, you loosen it with a strap wrench(if it doesn't by hand) which you then drop. Spin the filter off in one go and tilt it so that it's upright. If you're unlucky, there might be a small drip from the adapter. This is true of any spin-on fliter that's screwed on horizontally. Which is most of them.

Well, the method I use is:
tie a kitchen towel sheet around centre tie rod, about halfway along (to stop oil going any further along it, as thats the size of my drain tray)
unscrew cap about 3 turns, so the oil starts to drain along the special flat in the thread for draining - it mostly missing everything as it drains, except the centre tie rod.
After a minute, remove cap - filter *should* be clipped in cap, and come out with it.
Clean cap, replace seal, replace filter and clip it in cap.
Refit.

Now, with spin on:
Tie rag to tie rod
Start to undo
oil goes everywhere - down block, across all the webbing, through that hole, all over crank sensor, subframe - the lot

[05omegav6]

Easier to spin off quickly, minimizing leakage

Got the bits to do both of mine, just need the oil and a nice warm day, in Florida perhaps, to get stuck in

[dbug]

Had both types on Omegas - both are messy removing but IME the spin on cartridge wins hands down for the greatest uncontrollable oil spillage on removal.
I also understand the paper element has a larger surface area compared to the cartridge, and is therefore a more efficient filter.

Guess it maybe a personal preference though

[feeutfo]

Just seems to me there's no real gain, extra expense and another job to do.

But whatever blows, as they say.