Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Bigron]

Broken spring, brake pipe corrosion, sills corroded and wishbone joints knackered to name but a few things! If I could display a JPEG image of the certificate, I would, but I don't know how. I've only done 5,000 miles on those ATP wishbones....waiting for TB to sneer and say "I told you so"!

Ron.

[dave the builder]

oh dear , what's the registration number so we can advise 
or PM me the reg number it and i'll copy and paste the MOT list from the MOT database 
did they give you a price ?

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Doesnt sound good Ron although the cost of repairing the devil you know needs to be compared with the devil you dont know, if you buy something else.

[Bigron]

Dave, the Reg. No. is AV51GYP.
Albs, you are probably right, but the tester said that the corrosion will only get worse for next year and  I could maybe only get another year's motoring for all that money - he never gave a fiugiure.
The emissions test that I was so wooried about it sailed through! 

Ron.

[Jimbob]

Repair immediately (major defects):

    Offside Rear Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i))
    Offside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
    Offside Front Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
    Offside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
    Offside Rear Brake hose ferrule excessively corroded (1.1.12 (f) (i))

Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):

    Offside Front Headlamp lens slightly defective (4.1.1 (b) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

    oil leak
    undertrays + sill covers fitted
    Nearside Front Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
    Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
    general corrosion underside of vehicle inc sills,springs,schocks + arms
    Rear Service brake fluctuating, but not excessively (1.2.1 (e))
    Rear Brakes imbalanced requirements only just met. It would appear that the braking system requires adjustment or repair. (1.2.1 (b) (i))

[terry paget]

My sympathy, Bigron. With that history of earlier passes with no advisories, you must be in shock. I don't like the sound of general underfloor corrosion, either. I wish you luck finding a rust free cheap Omega on e-bay these days, too.

[biggriffin]

The question to ask is. It passed last year. No advisory. So in 12mths have the fairies been underneath your car breaking bits.. go and have a chat with Serek, before you dispose of the car.

[BazaJT]

Without seeing the underside of the car to assess the general corrosion bit the most worrying part for me would be the sill corrosion as I have no facilities for welding.The rest is pretty straightforward and not overly expensive to sort.

[Alnico Blue]

Ron, sorry to hear this , but that seems a bloody long list of deteriation in a year , bearing in mind the previous almost faultless MOT's 

Is it the same garage /tester as last year  ? 

Fail issues are at only 2 main areas . O/S rear spring and brake pipe area and O/S front wishbone and brake pipe/hose area. And of course  headlight issue.
 Not a lot of work for an able bodied competent home mechanic to get another year out of the car, but without being rude to you ,health wise, probably impossible for you to carry out yourself. 

So getting a garage to do even the essential issues is going to be quite a bit. 
Then there is the list of advisories to look at in the longer term. 

As Bigriff says  a chat with serek may be the next step before you condem the car   

[amba]

The areas of failure shouldnt work out too pricey to fix and that way you have another years motoring and the time to assess if the other points are beyond economical repair then go from there.

TBH I had a similar situation,as I think we will all start having now given the youngest Omega is almost 18 so  corrosion etc will start to take their hold.

Cost of a old banger will be more than the failure repairs ,but does need a clear mind as to best course of action and all our individual car needs differ

[Nick W]

That hasn't failed on corrosion though.
The whole list is typical of a thorough, conscientious tester who puts down everything he sees, that many wouldn't. That 'general corrosion' comment is something I would expect to get on any 20 year old car. Same applies to the sill covers - he's not allowed to to remove them to inspect behind. The 'greased brake pipes' is something I would always put as an advisory(if testing cars) because it also means you can't inspect them properly. It requires another look for you to make an informed decision.


Your actual problems are: the broken spring -£50 in parts and some work;  the brake pipes -£10 of pipe and fittings, £20 for the hose  plus some work; the wishbone fault - another £15 part and an hour's work; and 10 minutes polishing the headlight lenses with your favourite coarse polish. Your low mileage is probably the cause of the handbrake advisory - adjusting it is part of the brake job.


That's an expensive list for a garage to do(and they're also going to charge you more for the parts) but one that a day's DIY should sort.

[Marks DTM Calib]

So it wants a spring, a bottom ball joint and some brake pipes.

Not that big a failure by any means

[Bigron]

Some encouraging comments, gents, for which I  thank you. However, as has been noted, my health/mobility issues won't allow me to do much more than polish the headlamp lens, and just recently I have gained an additional problem – my eyes have blurred vision and floaters, making it unsafe for me to drive (I'm waiting for my GP to refer me to hospital) and most certainly wouldn't be able to drive to Serek's. I only justt made the 12 mile journey to the tesst station – same garage as last year.

Ron.

[Lizzie Zoom]

After reading the list I gulped for you and shook my head Bigron.

However, after reading the comments from those who know I think it is worth the expense (if the funds are available) and effort to put everything right.  Your Omega is worth saving, as what are the costs for buying anything equal to it?

Mine had "advisories" with the MOT of two years ago faulting corroded front brake pipes.  After gaining advice on here I got underneath the car, cleaned ALL the pipes for their entire lengths, sprayed with a protective coat of Supertrol everywhere, and I even attended to some small areas of rust on the underside (not faulted though).

With the last MOT, at the Vx dealership I use not the one that had given me the previous advisories, it sailed through with no advisories!

So I reckon Ron get the wire brush and Supertrol, or similar, out get underneath the whole car and go from front to back cleaning and protecting.  Take up the advise of other to get the other jobs done (Serek is certainly my highly recommended choice after he d id my front wishbones, plus a lot more) and get the car MOT'd at a different garage that preferably know you and your car

SORRY RON, JUST SEEN YOUR LAST POST!!!   NO, YOU CANNOT DRIVE WITH THOSE EYES CONDITIONS.

Have you got any friends or family who can drive the car to a local garage?

[dave the builder]

NOT as bad as I was expecting 
 I expect that's about £500 worth to sort the brake pipes,spring ,suspension and polish the lights including VAT at garage prices to get a pass (not including the advisories )
probably well worth doing for another years motoring in a decent car you are comfortable in 
if you get rid and try and find something else the spending goes right up ,you have to get used to driving another car,
insuring another car costs more, then you will probably find niggles with the replacement car ,more expense ,unless you buy something retail ££

i'd ask what the MOT station want money wise to get a pass, also worth shopping round a bit ,phone Serek etc as others have said

Some encouraging comments, gents, for which I  thank you. However, as has been noted, my health/mobility issues won't allow me to do much more than polish the headlamp lens, and just recently I have gained an additional problem – my eyes have blurred vision and floaters, making it unsafe for me to drive (I'm waiting for my GP to refer me to hospital) and most certainly wouldn't be able to drive to Serek's. I only justt made the 12 mile journey to the tesst station – same garage as last year.

Ron.

sorry to hear that Ron 
sounds like its time for you to stop driving then .
that being the case ,you could offer it for sale ,people can look at the fail sheet,

[VXL V6]

Sorry but in my eyes, if the brake pipes are corroded you get them replaced, cleaning them and painting them when they will clearly be pitted from the corrosion isn't the answer.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Depends on what you call corrosion. They can have a little surface corrosion which will rub off with wire wool which is fine imo.
If its really eating into the pipe then deffo replacement is the only way to go. A matter of experience and judgement I suppose.

[johnnydog]

The brake pipes are coated - it is an olive green coating from memory. Several years ago, the coating on some areas of brake pipes on an Omega were a little flaky in parts, so I went over the affected area with a small brass wire brush. With the section of flaky coating removed, there was nothing wrong with the actual pipes, so I coated them with Bilt Hamber Dynax 50. It has sailed through subsequent MOTs with no mention of issues with the brake pipes.
When the coating is flaking, they look worse than they actually are, and odds are that they may be noted as ''corroded' when, as Lizzies says, a simple clean up maybe all that is needed.
If they are severely corroded, then that is a different matter entirely.

[dave the builder]

Yep, mine where the same when i first got it
i treated similarly ,along with much of the underside and check it all pre MOT , corrosion has never been mentioned since by the NT (MOT tester) 
thing is ,an MOT tester has a set amount of time to check lots of things
if he follows the rules ,he can only use his hands and the official corrosion assessment tool 

any corrosion should be still strong enough for up to 3 months post test or the tester can be sanctioned/slap on the wrist
which is why many testers put " condition of components rusty ,under trays fitted, sill covers fitted etc to cover themselves

[Lizzie Zoom]

The brake pipes are coated - it is an olive green coating from memory. Several years ago, the coating on some areas of brake pipes on an Omega were a little flaky in parts, so I went over the affected area with a small brass wire brush. With the section of flaky coating removed, there was nothing wrong with the actual pipes, so I coated them with Bilt Hamber Dynax 50. It has sailed through subsequent MOTs with no mention of issues with the brake pipes.
When the coating is flaking, they look worse than they actually are, and odds are that they may be noted as ''corroded' when, as Lizzies says, a simple clean up maybe all that is needed .
If they are severely corroded, then that is a different matter entirely.

Exactly right.  Mine were no more than dirty but the MOT guy, who had not done my car before and was new, deemed them to be “corroded”. As there was actually nothing more than surface rust, if that, a simple rub down and coating was all that was needed.  As proved with the last clear pass MOT

[VXL V6]

While I have done the same to preserve the brake pipes on these cars, they are now nearing 20 years old for even the youngest, the pipes under the car have cleaned up fine in the past but the joints on the rear arms and the pipes in the front wheel arch were beyond that on the project car and I suspect if I looked at the daily and the other one they are getting to the same point in those two places.

I opted to get them replaced and new flexi's (Meyle) as well, it didn't cost a lot to get SOS to do the work - I supplied the flexi's 

[Raeturbo]

If you intend to keep driving Ron, I would get it fixed, or at least a couple of quotes, finding and buying another car and then getting used to it won’t be easier or cheaper I guess, Stick with what you trust👍

[amba]

That would also be my best advise given the costs to get it fixed for MOT at DIY prices are sub £150 plus abit of labour ...maybe double that at a garage....but you couldnt buy a reliable car for sub £500 without spending more.

Looking at your past MOT history Ron,I think most of the issues beyond the failure advis eare just lack of use as you havent covered 1000miles since last MOT and a standing car isnt a good thing...get some miles on it assuming your health allows

[dave the builder]

you can't generalise with corrosion on cars ,even of the same make ,age and model, because some have a harder life than others.
mine had been garage stored before i got it and only done 76k,  others do 30k a year including going out in the wet rain stuff some even drive on salted roads    
unless it's a Fraud KA ,they are ALL rusty sh!t boxes 

[ronnyd]

Sorry to hear this Ron. Depending on the prognosis regarding your eyesight, it may be , sadly time to consider whether you wish to continue to drive. I can understand that this decision could be quite an emotional thing, as it will be a loss of independence for you. Wish you well in whatever you do mate. 

[Nick W]

Sorry but in my eyes, if the brake pipes are corroded you get them replaced, cleaning them and painting them when they will clearly be pitted from the corrosion isn't the answer.

Agreed.
I think greased brake pipes should be an instant failure.

[TheBoy]

I've only done 5,000 miles on those ATP wishbones....waiting for TB to sneer and say "I told you so"!

I am not one to sneer, as that's not helpful.  But serves as a reminder that ATP wishbones are monumentally crap, and should be avoided. But that doesn't help you now.

The failure list seems not that bad, and given your current visual issues, sometimes its best to keep with the car you know its proportions when manovering around to avoid little knocks.  Not that you would be driving if you had a bad bout, I'm sure.

[Bigron]

I hope you weren't offended, TB - you know I was only teasibg. Thanks for your comments; understood and appreciated. 

Ron.

[TheBoy]

I hope you weren't offended, TB - you know I was only teasibg. Thanks for your comments; understood and appreciated. 

Ron.

No offence taken in any way Bigron. And it should be me teasing you with a "told you so", but that clearly isn't very helpful at this stage. Funny, but not helpful

[New POD]

Repair immediately (major defects):

    Offside Rear Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i))
    Offside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
    Offside Front Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
    Offside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
    Offside Rear Brake hose ferrule excessively corroded (1.1.12 (f) (i))

Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):

    Offside Front Headlamp lens slightly defective (4.1.1 (b) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

    oil leak
    undertrays + sill covers fitted
    Nearside Front Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
    Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
    general corrosion underside of vehicle inc sills,springs,schocks + arms
    Rear Service brake fluctuating, but not excessively (1.2.1 (e))
    Rear Brakes imbalanced requirements only just met. It would appear that the braking system requires adjustment or repair. (1.2.1 (b) (i))

That looks like "service" items to me.

Nothing I would scrap any car for.

If I were to replace my Omega, I'd want to spend £LOTS on it's replacement so I spend £less on getting it through the MOT.  Whether the cost is more than the value is not important. It's whether the cost is less than it's replacement.

And in my head I have some sort of 4 seat V8 coupe from Germany or Australia.

[Raeturbo]

Yes always keep your...  four wheeled Friend 👍