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Messages - omega2018

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1111
Omega General Help / Re: painting brake discs
« on: 08 September 2014, 14:53:52 »
I'm using Hycote very high temperature paint: "superb adhesion to bare steel"  "temperature resistant up to 650C".  £5 for a 400ml can inc delivery.

I don't care much about the innards, discs rust from the edges to the contact surface in my experience and it is the contact surface rust that is the problem.

1112
Omega General Help / Re: painting brake discs
« on: 04 September 2014, 02:32:56 »
thanks my rears are fine it is just the insides of the front. seems to be a common problem and defo not cosmetic.  being inboard cosmetic appearance would not be an issue but anyway im not sure you can see anything on a front disc except the contact area. 

1113
Omega General Help / Re: rear brakes hot to touch
« on: 04 September 2014, 02:27:56 »
just had similar problem on my rear disc, one pad was worn almost to the metal and the piston wouldn't retract . some force to the piston face and new pads seems to have fixed it touch wood.  the discs do get warm but shouldn't be too hot to hold a finger on assuming you havent stood on the brakes before checking. easy to check if the discs are binding jack up a wheel and spin it having chocked the others.  or even just try rolling your car with the brakes off.

1114
Omega General Help / painting brake discs
« on: 04 September 2014, 02:12:41 »
ive got 2 new front discs to fit.  dont want them to rust like the insides of the old ones so im thinking of spray painting them with hycote very temp paint. 

question is do I spray the whole disk or am i supposed to mask off the contact area?  masking will be a chore plus i suspect it is the areas just on the edge of the contact zone that start the rust so they need the paint most.  the v high temp paint is not oil based so should just scrape off the contact area in first use and not contaminate the pads shouldn't it? assuming i spray it lightly?

i see the few pre painted discs like the black high gloss mtecs come painted all over

doubtless that is some fancy special coating.

if the advice is absolutely not to spray the contact area i suppose  i could spray it and then remove it with some temporary fine sandpaper between the pads and disc for a few spins.

1115
General Discussion Area / Re: Plasma cutter recommendation
« on: 02 July 2014, 11:51:53 »
ive got a ct520 plasma cutter, welder and tig all in one.  very pleased with it slices through 15mm steel no problem which is what i bought it for. i paid £325 new  i see they are now £299 on ebay inc free angle grinder, search for ct520.  had to reconnect the internal earth lead when it arrived  - it is made in china but no probs since £299 to cut up to 18mm steel bargain

1116
Omega General Help / Re: rear brake discs
« on: 19 June 2014, 13:49:58 »
thanks yes youre right they are £53 for a pair of delphi vented disks. still it all adds up and there are plenty of things on my mig I could replace but don't need it, my feeling is rear disks should last the life of the car if not corroded. also its a bit more work.  if i find the old disks are shiny both sides and i have a pair of new ones next to me the temptation will be to replace then but on the other hand the oem disks are not rusting but the news ones might. my mig doesn't get much use so rust is the big problem, my frontdisks are already shot with rust, inside only.

anyway i'lll take the chance on one wheel, if i find the insides rusted i'll order new ones for both before i  do the second

1117
Omega General Help / Re: rear brake discs
« on: 18 June 2014, 20:45:23 »
Not that I've noticed. Its worth a quick check though.

thanks is there some easy way to do a quick check?  it seems the entire inside is covered.  i was assuming i will have to take off the wheel and take out the old pads to know.  im doing that anyway just it will be a pain to do it, put it back together, order the discs and do it all again.

1118
Omega General Help / rear brake discs
« on: 18 June 2014, 17:37:44 »
do these rust on the inside like the front ones do?  i plan to replace the pads just wondered if i need to order new discs as well. im loath to do that as i suspect oe disks rust less than new ones.   i can't see the inside face.

1119
General Discussion Area / Re: Malaysian Airlines Crash...
« on: 12 March 2014, 19:00:50 »
OK new theory.

Oxygen in plane ran out(puncture/malfunction) and pilots didn't realise and so :

Didn't manually help themselves to oxygen and
didn't press button to release masks for passengers
Went into a coma
Plane continued flying itself until it ran out of fuel
No one watching on radar thought it unusual because "it wasn't their plane" and not their job
It crashed a thousand miles from where they are "looking"  :(

Gosh, I can't believe I favoured alien abduction for a time.  :o

Sorry ... can't happen on a modern airliner, both audio and visual warnings of pressurisation failure at a relatively low differential pressure, also the "drop down" masks are activated automatically by the same system, deliberately set to prevent exactly the scenario you postulate ... :( ... the only way it could happen would be both a failure of the pressurisation system AND a total failure of ALL the warning/safety systems ....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helios_Airways_Flight_522

1120
Omega General Help / new belt life
« on: 10 February 2014, 17:50:59 »
have just fitted a gates micro v auxiliary belt.  it seems to differ from the old belt in two ways - the material seems to be different, more plasticy than rubbery - sorry for the technical description, and the belt is thinner.  gates say this makes it last longer http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2911&location_id=3107

so i get to wondering about timing belt life.  has it increased over the years with better design and materials?  gates now specify 100,000 change interval for the 3.2 and 3.0 cadillac catera see http://www.gates.com/common/downloads/files/Gates/TimingSystemTakeOne.pdf .  they also say where no manufacturer interval is recommended use worst case of 60,000.

1121
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: OOF mystery problem
« on: 10 February 2014, 17:31:22 »
nope its a pretty standard car.  as a few people have reported the same prob with the same fuse i am working on the assumption it is something standard on the car. the drain is 1/4 amp or 3 watt approx.

1122
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: OOF mystery problem
« on: 10 February 2014, 13:00:32 »
the manual with my car a 2001 facelift elite says only

"No.  Circuit                Rating
7 Courtesy lamp             30A". 

the manual is "TS 1433-1" edition September 2000. page 191

when i pull fuse 7 the electric seat motors and rear cigar lighter don't work hence the 30A rating.  also the courtesy light boot light and glove light fail.

according to the same manual fuse 5 is "adjustable front seats 30A".  if i pull 5 the seat motors are dead if i put it back in and pull 7 they click but do not move with 5 and 7 both in they work fine. so it looks like 7 is something to do with consumer control.

the consumer delay was working, switches off around 5 minutes.  can it work and still drain after switching off?

1123
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / OOF mystery problem
« on: 09 February 2014, 23:20:36 »
http://youtu.be/-b5aW08ivHU

ive found this same problem a few places in the archives.  unless im missing the answer it doesnt seem to have ever been solved!!!!!

it is a 250ma drain on the battery overnight going through fuse no 7.   if i pull no 7 i get under 5ma.

my mig handbook describes no 7  as "courtesy lamp 30a".   ive checked a few things and removal of fuse knocks out the electric seat motors, courtesy lights, boot light and rear cigar lighter.

the forum faq here http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90451.0 if im reading it right says the fuse is for electrically operated windows in 98-2003 cars.  it isn't.

any ideas what may be causing this mystery drain?  ive checked courtesy light, glove box light and boot light.

annoyingly the test is not very repeatable even allowing for the timer delay.  sometimes i get a 450ma draw even with no 7 pulled and i have to pull both fv5 and fv6 to stop that.



1124
Omega General Help / fuse no 7 courtesy light 250ma drain
« on: 04 February 2014, 18:09:35 »
ive pinned down a 250ma leak to fuse no 7.  well sometimes if i pull no 7 i get under 5ma so thats my best guess. 

my mig handbook describes no 7  as courtesy lamp 30a.  30a seems a lot for a courtesy light.  i see here theboy  describing it as 7--30A Electrically operated windows in 98-2003 cars http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90451.0 which i havent yet checked but i know the courtesy light goes out when i pull it.

any ideas what the culprit may be?  ive checked courtesy light, glove box light and boot light.

annoyingly the test is not very repeatable even allowing for the timer delay.  sometimes i get a 450ma draw even with no 7 pulled and i have to pull both fv5 and fv6 to stop that.

1125
General Discussion Area / Re: Deactivated ordnance legality?
« on: 29 January 2014, 22:51:35 »
hope its not a zero zero grenade:

"The Zero-Zero Handgrenade incident took place at approximately midnight on 15/26 June 1985. It was the culmination of an operation carried out by members of the Security Branch of the South African Police, including members of the C10 Unit (Vlakplaas) and members of the East Rand Division. The operation was the idea of and formulated by Johannes Velde van der Merwe (the 7th Applicant) who was then second in charge of the Security Branch. Approval for the execution of the operation was given by Louis Le Grange, the Minister of Police.

The operation entailed the infiltration of the Congress of South African Students (COSAS) members on the East Rand, providing them with handgrenades and a limpet mine of which the timing devices had been reduced to zero seconds and enticing them to use such explosive devices simultaneously. The operation resulted in the death of eight people and seven people being seriously injured....

They decided that their targets would be symbolic in nature. They decided on the deserted burnt out houses of Stephen and David Nomani, two persons who were suspected of being collaborators and who had been driven out of the area. The next night he and the other members of his group who were still prepared to participate each received a handgrenade from Mamasela and the 2nd Applicant. He was surprised to learn that Congress Mtsweni was going to target an electrical substation with a limpet mine. The witness then proceeded with his group to the house of Steve Nomani. His group consisted of himself, Samuel Lekatsa, Humphrey Tshabalala and Osborne Dlamini. At the house they performed the drill that they had been trained by "Mike" and "James". The witness counted one and they all held the lever of their handgrenade, he counted two and they all pulled the pin and as he counted three, the count on which they were all to throw their grenades at the house, the grenades exploded while in their hands."
http://www.justice.gov.za/Trc/decisions/2001/ac21058.htm

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