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[Migalot]

And get them to set the geometry to WIM settings rather than standard Vauxhall settings.

Used to get Tony at WIM to do the settings. Is he still there?

[Doctor Gollum]

Money no object, replace the lot, including the springs.

But what I said was... Who on earth replaced a single wishbone 

That's just retarded. And a garage should know better

But if the alignment was last done poorly/incompletely due to seized components then yes, replace the tie rods. I would suggest actually replacing BOTH wishbones as pattern ones have a working life of about 20k miles.

When it comes to front suspension on the Omega either do it right once or get a different car.

[Migalot]

Money no object, replace the lot, including the springs.

But what I said was... Who on earth replaced a single wishbone 

That's just retarded. And a garage should know better

But if the alignment was last done poorly/incompletely due to seized components then yes, replace the tie rods. I would suggest actually replacing BOTH wishbones as pattern ones have a working life of about 20k miles.

When it comes to front suspension on the Omega either do it right once or get a different car.

Mea culpa. It's a long story...

Yes, I know.    

[Doctor Gollum]

If the ball joints and rear bushes are serviceable then you'll get away with just the poly bushes both sides.

If the tie rods need doing, then just do them. Likewise the drop links... These may even be considered a service item with the state of the roads.

Unless you're replacing the shocks, the camber bolts only need to be loosened a hair and retorqued after adjustment. (Replacing them is a waste of money unless you're replacing the shocks, in which case simply cut them off and use new hardware to save time/effort).

Sachs shocks are factory fit and reasonably priced,. Likewise springs and I would strongly suggest Kilen HD ones along with Febi or Sachs top mount kit.

Also worth considering is the rear tie rods. The thrust angle MUST be ZERO.  Nothing more, nothing less. This is set by the rear tie rods and if they've seized, they can easily be bent trying to undo them which will render the rest of the alignment void.

[Doctor Gollum]

Incidentally, for those that aren't aware...

The wishbones aren't sided. Position is dictated by which way up the ball joint is fitted.

On a table with the horizontal bush pointing away from you and the vertical bush nearest you and to the right, balljoint up is left and down is right. Three rivets to drill/cut/grind and the ball joint can simply be slid out, turned over and refitted.  Replacement ball joints come with three appropriate bolts. Easier than Lego.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Pretty sure Tony at WIM died not too long ago.

Rear tie rods are often badly seized unless they have been adjusted in the recent past. I had to replace both mine before I could get the geometry set.
WIM figures should be on here somewhere. If not, I have them written down somewhere and could hopefully dig them out.

[Nick W]

Going to show my ignorance here (as per usual).

IF it is the wishbone bushes that are gone (agree with TB's post, but my money is on this) are you saying that the existing bushes should be replaced with poly bushes, i.e. keep the old wishbones? Do they just hammer in, or is a special tool required? Is it worth getting the anti-roll bar bushes done too at the same time?

TIA

The easiest way to remove the bushes is with a tool. It's not the only way, as most people who have done this job don't have one.


The usual method is to butcher the outer edge of the rubber so the central sleeve falls out - this can be done with hacksaw blades, multitools, drilling around the edge(by far the least frustrating way) or whatever else you can think of. Having burnt a couple of suspension bushes out, I really wouldn't recommend it - they're not easy to set alight(a common propane burner won't do it), smell awful for ages, and the ashes are filthy. Once most of the rubber is out of the way, you need to cut a slit in the outer metal sleeve that is still in the wishbone. This is a simple hacksaw job. Then you collapse the sleeve with a hammer and drift so that the remains fall out.


The poly bushes are a different design, and are fitted by hand.


I do have a tool for both wishbone bushes, and will happily do it for you if you bring the bits(or the car!) to me in Chatham. There's no way I'd do this on the car.


Like this:




I would suggest that anyone who needs camber bolts to adjust the camber can't be trusted to do the job properly. They work well when pivoting around a fixed point, which isn't the case on the Omega.

[Migalot]

Incidentally, for those that aren't aware...

The wishbones aren't sided. Position is dictated by which way up the ball joint is fitted.

On a table with the horizontal bush pointing away from you and the vertical bush nearest you and to the right, balljoint up is left and down is right. Three rivets to drill/cut/grind and the ball joint can simply be slid out, turned over and refitted.  Replacement ball joints come with three appropriate bolts. Easier than Lego.

Cheers, Doc.

I've ordered a new OSF wishbone so, along with my mint NSF in the shed, they will both get done. Pretty sure my droplinks were done November 22. May leave the camber for now, but the right bolts are Monroe MC212 — a bit pricey...and out of stock!

[urlhttps://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/camber-correction-screw-15144/vauxhall/omega/omega-b/15327-2-6-v6][/url]

[Migalot]

Going to show my ignorance here (as per usual).

IF it is the wishbone bushes that are gone (agree with TB's post, but my money is on this) are you saying that the existing bushes should be replaced with poly bushes, i.e. keep the old wishbones? Do they just hammer in, or is a special tool required? Is it worth getting the anti-roll bar bushes done too at the same time?

TIA

The easiest way to remove the bushes is with a tool. It's not the only way, as most people who have done this job don't have one.


The usual method is to butcher the outer edge of the rubber so the central sleeve falls out - this can be done with hacksaw blades, multitools, drilling around the edge(by far the least frustrating way) or whatever else you can think of. Having burnt a couple of suspension bushes out, I really wouldn't recommend it - they're not easy to set alight(a common propane burner won't do it), smell awful for ages, and the ashes are filthy. Once most of the rubber is out of the way, you need to cut a slit in the outer metal sleeve that is still in the wishbone. This is a simple hacksaw job. Then you collapse the sleeve with a hammer and drift so that the remains fall out.


The poly bushes are a different design, and are fitted by hand.


I do have a tool for both wishbone bushes, and will happily do it for you if you bring the bits(or the car!) to me in Chatham. There's no way I'd do this on the car.


Like this:




I would suggest that anyone who needs camber bolts to adjust the camber can't be trusted to do the job properly. They work well when pivoting around a fixed point, which isn't the case on the Omega.

Cheers, Nick. Useful info. 

[Migalot]

Pretty sure Tony at WIM died not too long ago.

Rear tie rods are often badly seized unless they have been adjusted in the recent past. I had to replace both mine before I could get the geometry set.
WIM figures should be on here somewhere. If not, I have them written down somewhere and could hopefully dig them out.

That would be much appreciated, Albs.

Such a shame about Tony. Great chap.

[Doctor Gollum]

Incidentally, for those that aren't aware...

The wishbones aren't sided. Position is dictated by which way up the ball joint is fitted.

On a table with the horizontal bush pointing away from you and the vertical bush nearest you and to the right, balljoint up is left and down is right. Three rivets to drill/cut/grind and the ball joint can simply be slid out, turned over and refitted.  Replacement ball joints come with three appropriate bolts. Easier than Lego.

Cheers, Doc.

I've ordered a new OSF wishbone so, along with my mint NSF in the shed, they will both get done. Pretty sure my droplinks were done November 22. May leave the camber for now, but the right bolts are Monroe MC212 — a bit pricey...and out of stock!

[urlhttps://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/camber-correction-screw-15144/vauxhall/omega/omega-b/15327-2-6-v6][/url]

Those bolts are totally, utterly and 100% completely NOT the correct bolts. And anyone who suggests otherwise has no business working on an Omega. That's the trouble with relying on idiots to provide parts.

[Doctor Gollum]

Camber bolt part numbers...

M12 bolt is 11096171 M12 x 1.5 x 55
M12 nut is 11094488

M14 bolt is 11090822 M14 x 1.75 x 56
M14 nut is 11094506

Ball joint 90512982

Genuine wishbone, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314080027493?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=m3-jiuxftwq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Ht8iHAwYSta&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY best genuine price in the world by some margin.

You'll require 3 x 11094436 and 3 x 11100041 to reverse one of the ball joints.

Rear tie rods...

90497197 https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/lemforder-1249872.html

The nuts listed above aren't standard nuts.

[Jimbob]

And get them to set the geometry to WIM settings rather than standard Vauxhall settings.

Used to get Tony at WIM to do the settings. Is he still there?

Tony passed away about 18 months ago, WIM taken over by protyre and no longer has a reputation that makes you want to visit.  I beleive one of those he trained is bookable not far away from there, can find the details easily enough if you want.

[Migalot]

Camber bolt part numbers...

M12 bolt is 11096171 M12 x 1.5 x 55
M12 nut is 11094488

M14 bolt is 11090822 M14 x 1.75 x 56
M14 nut is 11094506

Ball joint 90512982

Cheers, DG. I was able to get hold of some hen's teeth, but those bolts are proving a tad more elusive.  

I think I'll leave the camber for now.

[Migalot]

And get them to set the geometry to WIM settings rather than standard Vauxhall settings.

Used to get Tony at WIM to do the settings. Is he still there?

Tony passed away about 18 months ago, WIM taken over by protyre and no longer has a reputation that makes you want to visit.  I beleive one of those he trained is bookable not far away from there, can find the details easily enough if you want.

Thanks, Jimbob. 

I'm hoping that someone on here can get hold of Tony's settings for the Omega.