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1

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Installing AMP, but keeping standard head unit

« on: 05 December 2006, 17:39:41 »

Im considering keeping this sub and just getting a twin 12" set, then i could bridge both channels and make them 2 could i not?

I wanna keep this amp as it cost a fair bit, and speaking with my bro he reckons i risk ruining the amp as it wont be running properly on 2 channels.... So, am i best just getting 2 12" subs in a twin (or 2 single) enclosures and wiring the amp to both them?

Also, what is recommended that is cheap, but will supply the extra punch i need? Im not one of these SPL types, or someone who listens to music at a million dB, but id like to life to my music!

2

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Installing AMP, but keeping standard head unit

« on: 03 December 2006, 19:18:38 »

Will the amp run ok only using 2 of its 4 channels then? Or do i risk destroying it as the power balance wont be right or something?

My amp is a Mutant NW480SP 4 channel, 4 x 80watt RMS with 2Ohm stable bridgeable, whatever that means. lol.

Looking online this is it here http://www.mutant.uk.com/nw480sp.html

And my sub is a Pile 1000w 12" one, which i purchased in a sub enclosure new as well.

Nothing mental, just wanted to add a bit of punch to the music really.

Would my amp be suitable?

3

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Installing AMP, but keeping standard head unit

« on: 02 December 2006, 22:26:55 »

My advice to you is just fit a sub driven from two channels bridged.  Pick up speaker level feeds from the rear speaker wires under the plastic sill cover.  
High pass the door speakers and your headunit will instantly be able to drive them much harder.

If you really want to keep the original headunit, it's the easiest thing to do and you can concentrate on fitting the phone up front and the amp at the back, without getting in a muddle.

Unless you upgrade the headunit, it's just not worth the hassle of a proper install!  In addition, if you fit a phone adaptor behind the head unit, you won't have room for much else behind there!

Keep us posted.

So i would in effect by joining the speaker feeds from the amp to the rear speakers meaning id have 2 sets connected to the rear speakers? One being the original stereo speakers and the others being the amp stereo feeds?

So the brand new 4 channel amp ive had for a little while now is absolutely no use at all?

4

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Installing AMP, but keeping standard head unit

« on: 02 December 2006, 12:03:54 »

With regard to fitting sub and amp and keeping standard head unit.....erm...that's the title of this thread!

Suggest you re-read from the top!

The phone should work with the correct adaptor.

nof offence mate, but I readx every single post in this thread and the question I was asking was more about whether it woukd still work given the fact I planned on using the phone adapter connected into the headunit.

I was just explaining what I intended to do inj more detail.

my phone kit is more important than fitting my sub and amp, but I don't want to hack my electrical wiring to pieces before realising it won't work! lol.

5

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Installing AMP, but keeping standard head unit

« on: 01 December 2006, 03:56:39 »

Im curious reading this, i have the standard head unit and im about to fit the Nokia CARK91 phone kit to my car, i also have a new sub and a 4 channel amp also new which ive had for some time and not even used (Mutant Amp, Pile 12" sub).

Could i actually keep the standard head unit, the 6disc CD changer that comes witht he headunit and still have the phone working AND a sub and amp?

If so, could someone explain how i could do this as i have to rip apart the car to hardwire the phone kit in (might need to point out im using an Autoleads adapter NOT hardwiring it with the universal wiring).

Any advice on how i could get it working would be appreciated.... Its about time i used the sub and amp as theyve not even been fitted or used ever since i saw a demo in a car audio shop and purchased them! haha.

6

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Changing engine loom

« on: 06 December 2006, 15:28:50 »

Ive not seen the omega one up close, but my guess is the loom would be connected via a multi pin connector, or several, and the loom for the engine connects to there and then the rest of the engines stuff.... Well its like that on Peugeots i seem to be forever working on for friends...

Its just time consuming, but worth it if your having as many problems as you seem to be...Least it eliminates that as the issue.

7

Omega General Help / Re: Fitting a cat 1 alarm on my MV6

« on: 08 December 2006, 10:45:30 »

Well thats something i didnt know!!

Saves me a job then!  

8

Omega General Help / Fitting a cat 1 alarm on my MV6

« on: 06 December 2006, 14:43:28 »

In short, is it going to interfere with the existing Vauxhall alarm system?

If so, what is my options as i would like to sort a cat 1 alarm for it, whether it be an upgrade or whatever.

9

Omega General Help / Re: Weird central locking fault

« on: 08 December 2006, 10:48:34 »

True, but it will bloody annoy me thats for certain!!!

Gonna rip both doors apart on sat or sun, as i need to fit the phone kit and wire it in anyway.

Thank you to everyone for your advice and comments and ill reply in due course once ive had a look at it.

gpb: Thanks for the workaround, works a treat for now, which is better than opening the rear drivers door and pressing the button! haha!  

10

Omega General Help / Re: Weird central locking fault

« on: 06 December 2006, 15:23:55 »

Oh right, cool, so just unlock as normal, then unlock again with the key and it will do the same thing as actioning the lock button inside the car?

11

Omega General Help / Re: Weird central locking fault

« on: 06 December 2006, 14:41:45 »

Doesnt that leave the alarm armed though? Both my previous Vectra's always set the alarm off if i used the key instead of the remote control fob.

I havent tried it i must admit, ill have a go in a bit so i know for future reference, but being as im working nights i think ill leave it until the weekend and take both fronts off and do it to both doors...Hopefully my central locking will work properly on all doors then.

12

Omega General Help / Re: Weird central locking fault

« on: 05 December 2006, 21:29:52 »

My driver's door lock got a bit lazy, giving erratic unlocking.

What happens is: rain is allowed inside the door and drains out the bottom but if the car isn't perfectly level a small pond will form in the corner of the door. The moisture gradually seizes up the door lock mechanism.

The solenoid only has so much pushing force and eventually the unlocking becomes marginal (because the mechanism is stiff). The button on the door also gets stiffer.

The fix is to pop the door card off (see the how to). I used a large bolster to pop the top edge off (protecting the paint with a very thick rag). Worked a treat, no damage to any clips or brackets.

Then WD40 the mechanism and lock. Wipe all the crud off and thoroughly grease it all up.

My remote locking works like a dream now.

You posted as i did, thanks for the information though, ill sort it out tomorrow mate, thanks.

13

Omega General Help / Re: Weird central locking fault

« on: 05 December 2006, 21:23:05 »

Yeah, i suppose that door being used the most doesnt help really.

Ok, so basically as i said above... out of interest how much am i looking at for a new solenoid? And do the Vectra central locking solenoids fit and work as well as i have a Vectra sat here i could rob them from.

Also, how does one get the door card off?

14

Omega General Help / Re: Weird central locking fault

« on: 05 December 2006, 17:46:22 »

So basically rip the door card off, move the membrane out the way and check everything really?

Grr, i was hoping that wouldnt be the case to be honest, it just seems bloody stupid when the remote will unlock it, but not actually open it, yet the door lock pin once locked and unlocked will open the car fine! Its bloody weird!

15

Omega General Help / Weird central locking fault

« on: 05 December 2006, 17:35:30 »

I cant get my head around this one. Basically last night i went to fill up the tank and i locked it when i went into the petrol station to hand over the cash, and when i returned i pressed the unlock button on the remote and it unlocked, yet the drivers door handle felt very stiff and wouldnt open the door....

I stood there like a class idiot while i tried to figure it out, to no avail.... However, ive looked closer today and everytime i unlock with the remote all but the passenger door unlocks (pass front door doesnt work, i guess its a solenoid), i cant open the drivers door, but if i open the rear drivers side door, lock the car with the lock button on the door and then unlock it, the drivers side door will open.

It locks fine with the central locking, and according to the door pin is unlocking, but just wont open unless i lock and unlock it from inside first...

Surely it cant be a faulty solenoid as repeating the steps from inside the car will make no odds as its doing the same thing as using the remote....

Im stumped, and need some advice as to what it could be to be honest.... Besides the passenger side front door that doesnt work on the central locking, they all unlock and can be opened except the drivers door now...

Any ideas?

Ive gotta do a parts run to Vauxhall to get the rear heater bypass valve, plus a oil sensor for the trip computer, the central locking solenoid for the pass front door and i could get something else, im just worrying as this is turning out expensive! lol.

TIA.