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[theolodian]

Actually I'm pretty happy with the quality of sound I get using my iPod with a tape adapter.  It would be nice to have a little more bass, but 150 quid nice?  I'll have to think about it.

I definitely don't want to get into replacing the radio, cd changer, phone, and sat-nav.  

cheers!  

[Jay w]

I had this dilemma when i put my amps into my miggy....

I like the look of the standard fit unit, plus on face value the car looks like it has a normal stereo installed so doesnt attract the attention of the local chav's

With some creative thinking i managed to get to a point where i am happy with the sound and still have the ability to add an ipod, and still end up better off than had i put a different head unit in

ATEOTD it is down to personal choice

[Hillper]

I probably would have kept the original head unit, but due to the lack of pre-outs, decided to whip it out.

It was only after I appreciated the convenience of MP3 capability that I was convinced.  (I find MP3 quality acceptable at high sampling rates).

However, I didn't have the phone and satnav to lose.

There's no doubt that fitting a sub and nothing else is the biggest and best improvenment you can make to a car's system.

There's no need to spend £150 either.  They're always on Ebay.

[sounds2k]

if you're just after mp3 capability, don't forget one of the ipod interfaces out there, like this one - can he had off fleabay for about £80 now ... plus the cost of the ipod of course, if you don't already have one

[Martin_1962]

Portable music - hmm - I just eject MD and place in HU

[Admin]

I probably would have kept the original head unit, but due to the lack of pre-outs, decided to whip it out.

It was only after I appreciated the convenience of MP3 capability that I was convinced.  (I find MP3 quality acceptable at high sampling rates).

However, I didn't have the phone and satnav to lose.

There's no doubt that fitting a sub and nothing else is the biggest and best improvenment you can make to a car's system.

There's no need to spend £150 either.  They're always on Ebay.

Mmmm sub goodness!

Just seperately bought a Pioneer GM-X952 (300w RMS @12v 2 channel bridged@ 4ohm) amp and a 12" Rockford Fosgate Punch Sub (200w RMS) in sealed enclosure.

Total cost.... £42.52p

So, yes, keep your eyes open and bargains can be had.

Oh it will be so good to have bass again. The difference a properly set up sub makes to a system cannot be overstated!

[MV6 Lee]

Im curious reading this, i have the standard head unit and im about to fit the Nokia CARK91 phone kit to my car, i also have a new sub and a 4 channel amp also new which ive had for some time and not even used (Mutant Amp, Pile 12" sub).

Could i actually keep the standard head unit, the 6disc CD changer that comes witht he headunit and still have the phone working AND a sub and amp?

If so, could someone explain how i could do this as i have to rip apart the car to hardwire the phone kit in (might need to point out im using an Autoleads adapter NOT hardwiring it with the universal wiring).

Any advice on how i could get it working would be appreciated.... Its about time i used the sub and amp as theyve not even been fitted or used ever since i saw a demo in a car audio shop and purchased them! haha.

[Hillper]

With regard to fitting sub and amp and keeping standard head unit.....erm...that's the title of this thread!

Suggest you re-read from the top!

The phone should work with the correct adaptor.

[MV6 Lee]

With regard to fitting sub and amp and keeping standard head unit.....erm...that's the title of this thread!

Suggest you re-read from the top!

The phone should work with the correct adaptor.

nof offence mate, but I readx every single post in this thread and the question I was asking was more about whether it woukd still work given the fact I planned on using the phone adapter connected into the headunit.

I was just explaining what I intended to do inj more detail.

my phone kit is more important than fitting my sub and amp, but I don't want to hack my electrical wiring to pieces before realising it won't work! lol.

[Hillper]

My advice to you is just fit a sub driven from two channels bridged.  Pick up speaker level feeds from the rear speaker wires under the plastic sill cover.  
High pass the door speakers and your headunit will instantly be able to drive them much harder.

If you really want to keep the original headunit, it's the easiest thing to do and you can concentrate on fitting the phone up front and the amp at the back, without getting in a muddle.

Unless you upgrade the headunit, it's just not worth the hassle of a proper install!  In addition, if you fit a phone adaptor behind the head unit, you won't have room for much else behind there!

Keep us posted.

[MV6 Lee]

My advice to you is just fit a sub driven from two channels bridged.  Pick up speaker level feeds from the rear speaker wires under the plastic sill cover.  
High pass the door speakers and your headunit will instantly be able to drive them much harder.

If you really want to keep the original headunit, it's the easiest thing to do and you can concentrate on fitting the phone up front and the amp at the back, without getting in a muddle.

Unless you upgrade the headunit, it's just not worth the hassle of a proper install!  In addition, if you fit a phone adaptor behind the head unit, you won't have room for much else behind there!

Keep us posted.

So i would in effect by joining the speaker feeds from the amp to the rear speakers meaning id have 2 sets connected to the rear speakers? One being the original stereo speakers and the others being the amp stereo feeds?

So the brand new 4 channel amp ive had for a little while now is absolutely no use at all?

[Hillper]

If you go the sub only route, you'll use two of the four amp channels bridged to drive the sub.  (See amp manual on brdiging).  So half the amp is wasted I'm afraid!

The headunit will continue to drive all four (highpassed) standard door speakers.

To connect the amp, find the rear speaker wires under the sill cover, just before they go into the rear door.
Strip back 10mm of insulation from both wires of the pair and crimp or solder extension wires to reach the amp in the boot.  Repeat on the other side of the car.  Use the same colours each side to keep the polarity the same.

The original wires are driving the speakers, you just tee into them under the sill.

You should high pass the speakers, as you can drive them harder.  Remember, if you have to turn the bass down to avoid distortion because of un-high passed speakers, you'll also be turning the sub bass down too.

Also, you must make sure the fader is set to provide enough output to the amp.  (Fade to the front and the sub will fade out).

All this is of course assumes your amp has decent quality high level inputs!  What model amp and sub are you using?

[MV6 Lee]

Will the amp run ok only using 2 of its 4 channels then? Or do i risk destroying it as the power balance wont be right or something?

My amp is a Mutant NW480SP 4 channel, 4 x 80watt RMS with 2Ohm stable bridgeable, whatever that means. lol.

Looking online this is it here http://www.mutant.uk.com/nw480sp.html

And my sub is a Pile 1000w 12" one, which i purchased in a sub enclosure new as well.

Nothing mental, just wanted to add a bit of punch to the music really.

Would my amp be suitable?

[MV6 Lee]

Im considering keeping this sub and just getting a twin 12" set, then i could bridge both channels and make them 2 could i not?

I wanna keep this amp as it cost a fair bit, and speaking with my bro he reckons i risk ruining the amp as it wont be running properly on 2 channels.... So, am i best just getting 2 12" subs in a twin (or 2 single) enclosures and wiring the amp to both them?

Also, what is recommended that is cheap, but will supply the extra punch i need? Im not one of these SPL types, or someone who listens to music at a million dB, but id like to life to my music!

[Hillper]

You can run sub inputs to both halves of the amp if you like, but it'll be quite happy using two of the four.  It will not harm it.

But really, just the one sub bridged across one amp set will be plenty loud, especially if you're keeping standard door speakers.

Try the setup you have and see what you think.  The sub is rated at 1000W.  Is that max. or rms?  If it's rms (which I doubt), the amp may be a bit underpowered.