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[terry paget]

Vauxhall Dealership has said they will test the Crankshaft sensor at my expense of £98+vat. If the part is faulty - they will fit another at no cost. If they believe that it could be some other factor - they will charge me the £98+VAT.

Again - the car always starts. It becomes lumpy and difficult to idle. Then stalls. There is never any problem starting the car.

I doubt very much that the sensor is the issue.

Does unplugging the multi-pin from the ECU cause any problems? Erase anything? Obviously, I would not do so with the ignition on.

Thanks for all your kind efforts so far - each is greatly appreciated - thank you

I do not understand how people make sensors that do not work reliably. A sensor consists of a coil, with lead and connector attached, potted in a plastic case. They must make millions of them. All modern carss depend upon them.
I suppose if the garage fitted the sensor, they can claim you are complaining under warranty, so they want to check that the sensor is faulty on your car. Trouble is the fault can be intermittent, occuring when hot.
In my case, described above, I had fitted the sensor myself to replace a good but cheap sensor. When the Vx sensor failed I could put back the cheap sensor and restore the car to good health. When I demanded a replacement from Vx dealer Bellinger Grove, they refused, saying they must refit the faulty sensor and test it on my car to make a  warranty claim. I live 70 miles away from Grove, but pass their door every Friday. I did not want to hang around, so refused this offer, instead quoting the Sale of Goods Act. They grumpily exchanged my sensor for another.
I conclude that is financially to their advantage to behave this way. Can anyone explain how?

[05omegav6]

They get to charge you summat for the time involved as part warranties only cover the part...

With crank sensors, that's money for old rope

[viper]

The Bosch Crankshaft Sensor is Part No. 90540743 form the dealership.

I have been trying to narrow down things to the following:

1. The car always starts without any problem.
2. When cold the car idles fine - the ICV is recent and has been tested with another I have.
3. Car warms up and runs fine. No idle problems.
4. Once up to temperature I stop the car and re-start. No problem with idle. Fine many times.
5. Drive car over a longer distance and then stop for short while - 10 mins.
6. Car starts but idle is terrible. Car wants to stall.
7. No power to throttle. Foot hard to floor. Nothing - then suddenly kicks in. Struggles hold revs.
8. Full throttle application - which is difficult -appears to clear it.
9. Engine then runs and idles fine.
10. Turn engine off. Leave for a short while. Starts fine - Terrible idle as per 6 above.
11. Engine allowed to cool completely. Starts and idles fine.

Are these the symptoms of a crankshaft sensor?

I was not convinced that the Independent Garage that undertook the live data was fully competent.

Are we back to looking at the temperature sensor? The garage stated not.

Do I buy another ICV? This is getting expensive!

Help!!!!

[chrisgixer]

If you need confirmation, do the paper clip test. Expect code 19, crank sensor. Ignore all other codes while a 19 is present. As 19 causes other erroneous codes.

[chrisgixer]

Although, sometimes code 19 is not present, yet the cs is still at fault. Like I said, sneaky little bastards these crank sensors.

[chrisgixer]

Further... DO NOT replace any other parts until cs replaced.


...IMO of course.

[viper]

Have let the car cool right down and it is worse than ever!

The car starts and then dies after a few seconds.

Full throttle will not save it.

I will not be able to change Crankshaft Sensor with not being able to get it on the ramps.

Paperclip Test reveals Fault Code 19 & 13. 13 being O2 sensor - but the car has just had new down pipes and new NGK Lamba Sensors in the last month!

This car is costing me a fortune. I will have to hire a car now too!

[terry paget]

What a nightmare!

It couldn't be the ECU, could it? I know they are very reliable on Omegas.

I had one fail on a Senator. Then I had two identical 3 litre 24 valvers, I swopped the ECUs, and cured the fault. You can't do that on Omegas without serious Tech2 input, I understand.

Has anyone heard of Omega ECU failure?

[viper]

Found a not too dis-similar saga on here and the problem was the rubber 0-rings sealing the breather box on the top of the engine. Two small o-rings.

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=54962.60

So I am going to have to go through all the breather system to ensure everything is spot-on.

The car will now only idle (very, very badly) for a few seconds before stalling.

My previous post which suggested it was fine when cold - but not when hot - has been proven wrong.

If I find the answer - and I prey that I do -  I will post it.

[Shackeng]

It is a great pity that you are unable to get to an OOF Tech2 reader, who would point you in the correct direction, and save you lots.

[chrisgixer]

Well, I don't know how much more evidence you need. Tbh.

Codes cleared, 19 returned, and is still showing on paper clip test.

Fault code 19 = faulty crank sensor.

That's not to say there aren't any other faults as well but you need to clear 19 by fixing the fault it signifies, before you can look at things like ICV or maf. You have a confirmed fault. Fix that fault. Then go from there.