Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 03 May 2012, 19:15:53
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Hey dudes and dudettes,
As you can see this is toast....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG103.jpg)
1. Firstly can I get away with not using this or does it need replacing? If so anyone got a part number?
2. Secondly, retarded question but which way on does it go on the caliper.... I'm thinking as you look at it on the picture is how it sits when looking at the caliper but that's the reason i broke it... it just bound up the pads and allowed no movement :-\
3. Finally, after i put it all back together (minus the shims) I got me old dear to pump the pedal a few times as i had backed off the caliper piston (no real need.. i just like using the brake spreader tool ::))... when the calliper piston had finally come out to meet the pads (took quite a few pumps of the pedal) there was only the tiniest amount of play with the brake pedal released... are they meant to be that close to the disc when pedal not pressed
Cheers all as ever ;)
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well if you dont have it on you get a rattle all the time, i could not get some for mine new so tuck some off a scrap car for a £1, so could try a scrap yard.
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They're springs to stop the pads rattling and you do need them ;)
The pads should be very close to the disc so they are "ready for action" as soon as you touch the brakes ;)
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PERFECT.
Thanks dudes.
I'll try fitting them different ways as bit unsure.
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About £10 for a replacement set inc new pins iirc :)
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About £10 for a replacement set inc new pins iirc :)
Cheers Steve. i'll nip to vx tomorrow :y
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About £10 for a replacement set inc new pins iirc :)
Cheers Steve. i'll nip to vx tomorrow :y
Got mine from local parts shop , they had them on the shelf :y
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About £10 for a replacement set inc new pins iirc :)
Cheers Steve. i'll nip to vx tomorrow :y
Got mine from local parts shop , they had them on the shelf :y
oh ok mate, thanks :y
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Try a breaker here, they should have some, will charge you pennies. Maybe try RobG? :y
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Cheers Tunster.
I am tempted to buy the new ones though as it would be good to get a ''springyness'' and fit comparison.
And before you ask, yes I am that sad ::) ;D
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Mine were in quite bad state, but most should be fine with a bit of wire brush, sand the pins down too with a bit if paper, smear some copper slip on pins as well. Make replacing the rear pads next time so much easier :y
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Mine were in quite bad state, but most should be fine with a bit of wire brush, sand the pins down too with a bit if paper, smear some copper slip on pins as well. Make replacing the rear pads next time so much easier :y
Same as. i got the wire wool drill adaption on it and i thought ''hmmm, come up really well'' then it fell apart in my hand ;D
just unbelievably brittle. hoping the new ones are much more springy allowing more room for the pads to move instead of binding them up
:y
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Mine were in quite bad state, but most should be fine with a bit of wire brush, sand the pins down too with a bit if paper, smear some copper slip on pins as well. Make replacing the rear pads next time so much easier :y
Same as. i got the wire wool drill adaption on it and i thought ''hmmm, come up really well'' then it fell apart in my hand ;D
just unbelievably brittle. hoping the new ones are much more springy allowing more room for the pads to move instead of binding them up
:y
;D Mine fell to bits as well :-X thought i was dragging some baked bean tins along the road , they had snapped in half and were dragging on the disc :o
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PERFECT.
Thanks dudes.
I'll try fitting them different ways as bit unsure.
Don't you'll only break them ;)
They fit in as your pic with the uprights behind the pins - usually easiest to slip behind pins as pins tapped in. :y
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Thanks guys, mighty helpful :y
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One quick thing re brake shoes....
If I didn't slacken the handbrake cable prior to removing the shoes what would happen? is that ok to do?
Reason I ask is cos i can't move ralf as he's half dead (not long til he's good again) and i'd want to get him up on my sturdy ramps cos i really dont want to get under the car with it on my cheap axel stands :y
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One quick thing re brake shoes....
If I didn't slacken the handbrake cable prior to removing the shoes what would happen? is that ok to do?
Reason I ask is cos i can't move ralf as he's half dead (not long til he's good again) and i'd want to get him up on my sturdy ramps cos i really dont want to get under the car with it on my cheap axel stands :y
i had a strange moment last week, elite up on stands, went under to drop the front pipes off the manifolds & went into panic mode. really odd. never affected me before. :o
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One quick thing re brake shoes....
If I didn't slacken the handbrake cable prior to removing the shoes what would happen? is that ok to do?
Reason I ask is cos i can't move ralf as he's half dead (not long til he's good again) and i'd want to get him up on my sturdy ramps cos i really dont want to get under the car with it on my cheap axel stands :y
i had a strange moment last week, elite up on stands, went under to drop the front pipes off the manifolds & went into panic mode. really odd. never affected me before. :o
Yes mate, i really don't like it. Was well happy under Daz's hydraulic lifts but stands and even my ramps dont fill me with confidence. when i was changing oil filter i just had visions of what i'd look like with a car for a head :-[
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afew years back in the bad wind we had saw a man had his hand choped off as he was changing the front wheel on the car jack big gust of wind, car came off jack and chop. never liked the standard jacks they put in with spare wheel. dont know how he got on but there was alot of people round him till amblance got there.
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So does anyone know if I can get the shoes off without slacening the hand brake cable off? :)
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If the shoes are well worn, & the adjusters were not working, you will get the drum/disc off OK. The correct way, is to slacken off the adjuster on the cable first. :y
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Years ago i was fitting a capri gearbox on my back and the gearbox dropped and pinned my fingers between a support and edge of gearbox ...mucho swearing ::)
I was not happy at jacking the car up onto ramps as my jack was at full stretch with the elite and still not enough space to get the ramp under , pity the car cant be driven up the ramp but with being an auto i would never try it :)
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If the shoes are well worn, & the adjusters were not working, you will get the drum/disc off OK. The correct way, is to slacken off the adjuster on the cable first. :y
Yeah disc came off no problem but i had let the handbrake off before i jacked it up so i think thats why the disc/drum came off easy. i of course chocked front wheels and put in 'P' before i jacked up.
but i want to get the shoes off next. so with the handbrake off and disc/drum off will i be able to get the shoes off without adjusting the handbrake cable?
sorry just gettin bit confused lol
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Well called Vx this morning. £16 something for Retaining sprngs and replacement pins.
Same thing at Eurocarparts.... £6 ;)
Will fit these tonight. Hopefully they won't bind up the brakes ::)
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got the new pad retaining springs. fitted them. they work brilliantly retaining the pads whilst allowing movement for ''on/off'' application.
clearly the old ones were real toast!!! ::)
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got the new pad retaining springs. fitted them. they work brilliantly retaining the pads whilst allowing movement for ''on/off'' application.
clearly the old ones were real toast!!! ::)
Is this the replacement parts for ragbone ralf :-\
The old pins on mine were corroded as well so i replaced them too .
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got the new pad retaining springs. fitted them. they work brilliantly retaining the pads whilst allowing movement for ''on/off'' application.
clearly the old ones were real toast!!! ::)
Is this the replacement parts for ragbone ralf :-\
The old pins on mine were corroded as well so i replaced them too .
hahaa funny you ask that mate...... as soon as i put them on (to check they'd work correctly) i took them off and put them back in the bag so i got some decent ones when i do the job on Daisy (the good car) ;D ;D ;D
the pins included were quite a bit shorter and i didnt bother trying them as i was short of time :'(
HOWEVER good news has hit the bear cave..... timing belt to be started tomorrow :y :y :y :y :y
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Two lengths of pins - short for cars with solid rear discs (your 2.5 should have those) and long for cars with vented discs (late 2.6/3.2 I believe)..
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that's better...... :y
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/bprets.jpg)
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Years ago i was fitting a capri gearbox on my back and the gearbox dropped and pinned my fingers between a support and edge of gearbox ...mucho swearing ::)
I was not happy at jacking the car up onto ramps as my jack was at full stretch with the elite and still not enough space to get the ramp under , pity the car cant be driven up the ramp but with being an auto i would never try it :)
Always drive our cars up onto ramps (all autos except TR4A) - need to use short planks on bottom of ramp (~2" thick) to allow Omega front valance to clear ramp. No issues with an autobox and ramps just take it steady and remember to use brakes to stop :) :) ;)
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Years ago i was fitting a capri gearbox on my back and the gearbox dropped and pinned my fingers between a support and edge of gearbox ...mucho swearing ::)
I was not happy at jacking the car up onto ramps as my jack was at full stretch with the elite and still not enough space to get the ramp under , pity the car cant be driven up the ramp but with being an auto i would never try it :)
Always drive our cars up onto ramps (all autos except TR4A) - need to use short planks on bottom of ramp (~2" thick) to allow Omega front valance to clear ramp. No issues with an autobox and ramps just take it steady and remember to use brakes to stop :) :) ;)
:y
Think i would do a trial up a small ramp first or maybe measuring to put a chock under the back wheels so it dont over run the ramps :o
Good job done steve , i put a smear of copper ease on my pins , only a small amount to stop corrosion :)