Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: feeutfo on 06 September 2012, 11:50:42
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Any collateral damage south if Booersville ?
2woody very kindly came down to help swap steering boxes and fit the good one to my car.
"We" managed in total;
Remove steering box from mv6
Dif seal, suspension check and stop brake squeal on smd's car
Remove my steering box
Fit good steering box to my car
Remove mv6 engine.
Split gear box off
Load engine into disco.
Well, when I say "we". I spent most of the time wandering round like rain man without the maths looking for my tools. Only to find HE had em. You Gota watch these farmer boys ya know. ;) ;D
Thanks again Stuart. Amazing stuff. (he doesn't mess about ya know :o )
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He's a good egg that fella :y :y
Has the new box sorted it or still not tried?
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Was just about to create a new topic about this...
Thanks to Stuart and Chris for yesterday. Stuart for changing my diff pinion seal in a jiffy and for a great sense of humour and Chris for looking/advising on my suspension, for the hospitality and trying to sort out my squealy brakes. I said trying because its returned :-[ although pedal feels more positive after removing rust from pistons. Squeal stopping from reverse has gone but now squeals (bad) while stopping in slow moving traffic i.e. gentle stopping. I wonder if its the hot weather or my driving style because the disc and pads looked ok.
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You want some copperslip on the backs of the pads :-X ::) :D
<Grabs popcorn and awaits Gixer's comment> :D :D
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You want some copperslip on the backs of the pads :-X ::) :D
<Grabs popcorn and awaits AndyB's comment> :D :D
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Ah yes, the old factory fit copper slip. Is it on trade club? ;D
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He's a good egg that fella :y :y
Has the new box sorted it or still not tried?
Yep. Sorted. :y
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Ah yes, the old factory fit copper slip. Is it on trade club? ;D
I know it's early days at the moment, but I've just changed my discs and pads for TC items and no squeal with them :y But I do believe in using copperslop on them and always have ::)
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He's a good egg that fella :y :y
Has the new box sorted it or still not tried?
Yep. Sorted. :y
So it was the box then ??? Time for a dissection methinks ::) ;D
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Ah yes, the old factory fit copper slip. Is it on trade club? ;D
I know it's early days at the moment, but I've just changed my discs and pads for TC items and no squeal with them :y But I do believe in using copperslop on them and always have ::)
Sigh...
in that case every new car ever made should squeal from the factory. ::)
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He's a good egg that fella :y :y
Has the new box sorted it or still not tried?
Yep. Sorted. :y
So it was the box then ??? Time for a dissection methinks ::) ;D
Will cirtainly have the servo valve off for a looksy, then go from there.
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Ah yes, the old factory fit copper slip. Is it on trade club? ;D
I know it's early days at the moment, but I've just changed my discs and pads for TC items and no squeal with them :y But I do believe in using copperslop on them and always have ::)
Sigh...
in that case every new car ever made should squeal from the factory. ::)
Except when new from the factory there is no wear or rust on the calliper, carrier or piston :-\ :-\
Not saying I'm right, just looking for a reason ;)
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Was just about to create a new topic about this...
Thanks to Stuart and Chris for yesterday. Stuart for changing my diff pinion seal in a jiffy and for a great sense of humour and Chris for looking/advising on my suspension, for the hospitality and trying to sort out my squealy brakes. I said trying because its returned :-[ although pedal feels more positive after removing rust from pistons. Squeal stopping from reverse has gone but now squeals (bad) while stopping in slow moving traffic i.e. gentle stopping. I wonder if its the hot weather or my driving style because the disc and pads looked ok.
might be worth a couple of hard stops away from traffic...?
Next time your out this way give us a shout. We'll have a bit more time hopefully. :)
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Ah yes, the old factory fit copper slip. Is it on trade club? ;D
I know it's early days at the moment, but I've just changed my discs and pads for TC items and no squeal with them :y But I do believe in using copperslop on them and always have ::)
Sigh...
in that case every new car ever made should squeal from the factory. ::)
Except when new from the factory there is no wear or rust on the calliper, carrier or piston :-\ :-\
Not saying I'm right, just looking for a reason ;)
smd's car is in mint condition, very low miles, do it has stood a fair while. Rust/corrosion prevention is another matter. IMO. ;)
There was alot of rust on the piston end, causing a raised area and the pad to rock. Genuine oe pads and discs. So it's not the pad material.
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It doesnt squeal from hard(ish) stopping Chris but I'm still taking it easy on them as they are fairly new. It would be good to take another look at them, maybe when we're doing the wishbones. Pads would have bedded in by then too.
Did you check the rear wheels for play on the bearings? On the drive home the rumble (that we thought to be related to the diff) was still present, which happens past 70mph upwards but I think that could also be the wheels/balancing.
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Ah yes, the old factory fit copper slip. Is it on trade club? ;D
I know it's early days at the moment, but I've just changed my discs and pads for TC items and no squeal with them :y But I do believe in using copperslop on them and always have ::)
I used to use copaslip but now use Wurth AL110 aluminium based grease,much more heat resistant and seems to stay there longer :y
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great work peeps, any chance of a brief how too on removing the steering box as i think mine is on its last legs :(
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Yep easy one that. Remove EVERYTHING on the left side of the engine.
Remove box.
Job done. :y
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Pics in a bit. Poor quality iPhone camera in bright sunlight though.
But we discovered the coolant transfer pipe can stay fitted. Just squeezes past if the bolt to towing eye is removed. Saves a lot of agro that. :y
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You want some copperslip on the backs of the pads :-X ::) :D
<Grabs popcorn and awaits AndyB's comment> :D :D
::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ;D
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Pics
Roughly from memory, 2woody can correct or add if needed. (probably will be )
Remove.
Wipers
Scuttle
Coolant and bottle, hose to coolant transfer pipe
Air box
Carbon cannister pipe connection
Fuel lines from manifold
(LPG gubbins)
Brake servo pipe
Master cylinder to servo nuts, pull Mc aside carefully
Servo nuts to bulk head bracket
Stuff 2woody did in footwell
Remove brake pedal stuff, bracket etc (as Haynes)
(acquire spare brake light switch before starting)
Loosen flexi joint column to box
Remove drivers front wheel
Remove drivers centre tie rod to pitman arm
Remove box heat shield
Unplug servo valve electrical connector
Remove flexi pas pipes to box and move forward out the way
Undo box bolts to chassis
Recover Y shaped shims from box top box mount
Withdraw box input shaft from flexi joint to column, while prying apart through master cylinder hole in bulk head
Remove coolant transfer pipe torx bolt to lifting eye
Lift box out past coolant transfer pipe being carefull not to damage servo plug connector
Refit is revers of removal.
But insure marks on box input shaft are dead upright with pitman arm straight, and flat sides of column verticle, this is important.
Adjust box damper by feel, while wiggling steering wheel in dead ahead position.
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/F27A836B-8E24-4163-B612-E6D6EEBC021A-11643-00000BB61E642EDE.jpg)
Final removal past coolant transfer pipe shows torx to lifting eye to remove. Pipe will then flex just enough to pull box past.
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/841A68B2-9D48-4CC0-A5D9-38C3581CCC4C-11643-00000BB6C94A9A83.jpg)
Input shaft, dead ahead marks
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/7B7BDDBF-9980-4D95-858E-205C071C052C-11643-00000BB6A1D5D015.jpg)
Flexi joint in correct position as it should be in the car I believe? Shows the flat sides, at least, in the hole where the column locates to insure steering wheel is straight to box and hence box damper.
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/2A1DA8C5-0838-4C6F-A73E-6354B1C0C8DC-11643-00000BB69D6D7E7B.jpg)
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Just add, there is no way on gods green earth that the box will come out from under neith. It must come out the top. :y
Hth
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Do you need a new brake switch?
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Nah we had a spare from the mv6. :y
They are very brittle, and easy to, er .... brake. :-\ ;D
The car has been driven, all ok. :y
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Nah we had a spare from the mv6. :y
They are very brittle, and easy to, er .... brake. :-\ ;D
The car has been driven, all ok. :y
Yep... You managed to get that one out ok then ::)
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Nah we had a spare from the mv6. :y
They are very brittle, and easy to, er .... brake. :-\ ;D
The car has been driven, all ok. :y
Yep... You managed to get that one out ok then ::)
as you know from experience, it's a team effort. ;)
...Well "somebody" had to make the tea. ;D
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Thanks to both - you're too kind.......
I finally got home at 19.00 this evening. So that's 2 and a half hours to Mum's last night, plus nearly eight hours in the Disco today.
On the instructions, I'd add the following...
remove aux cooling pump and hoses from inner wing
remove bonnet alarm switch
try not to muller the brake lamp switch whilst in the footwell
next time, try to picka job with a bit more to go at 8)
be sure to visit filchedtools.com soon for a great selection of hardly-used equipment
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:y
That's a long way in a Tractor. :-\
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How long did that take to do ::) "thoughts of vx doing it" + vat ::) ;D
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The box? Or everything?
Total bill for everything from a vx dealer.... Probably about 5k. ;D
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The box? Or everything?
Total bill for everything from a vx dealer.... Probably about 5k + VAT ;D
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When I took one off the breaker, removed it from underneath....admittedly, there were no cats, or gearbox etc on at the time...
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Thanks for the how to chaps, just need to find a new box & the time to fit it
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When I took one off the breaker, removed it from underneath....admittedly, there were no cats, or gearbox etc on at the time...
..... pedaaaaaant ;D
It's easier still with the engine out. ;)
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Thanks to both - you're too kind.......
I finally got home at 19.00 this evening. So that's 2 and a half hours to Mum's last night, plus nearly eight hours in the Disco today.
On the instructions, I'd add the following...
remove aux cooling pump and hoses from inner wing
remove bonnet alarm switch
try not to muller the brake lamp switch whilst in the footwell
next time, try to picka job with a bit more to go at 8)
be sure to visit filchedtools.com soon for a great selection of hardly-used equipment
I assume only for cars with the switch on that side - some have it passenger side?
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Thanks to both - you're too kind.......
I finally got home at 19.00 this evening. So that's 2 and a half hours to Mum's last night, plus nearly eight hours in the Disco today.
On the instructions, I'd add the following...
remove aux cooling pump and hoses from inner wing
remove bonnet alarm switch
try not to muller the brake lamp switch whilst in the footwell
next time, try to picka job with a bit more to go at 8)
be sure to visit filchedtools.com soon for a great selection of hardly-used equipment
I assume only for cars with the switch on that side - some have it passenger side?
Maybe so, but that us the superior side. The CORRECT side. ;) ;D
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The box? Or everything?
Total bill for everything from a vx dealer.... Probably about 5k. ;D
Quite reasonable then ;D ::)
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remove bonnet alarm switch
I assume only for cars with the switch on that side - some have it passenger side?
that's true