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Author Topic: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody  (Read 5745 times)

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henryd

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #15 on: 06 September 2012, 19:01:11 »

Ah yes, the old factory fit copper slip. Is it on trade club? ;D

I know it's early days at the moment, but I've just changed my discs and pads for TC items and no squeal with them :y But I do believe in using copperslop on them and always have ::)

I used to use copaslip but now use Wurth AL110 aluminium based grease,much more heat resistant and seems to stay there longer :y
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razzo

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #16 on: 06 September 2012, 19:11:16 »

great work peeps, any chance of a brief how too on removing the steering box as i think mine is on its last legs   :(
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feeutfo

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #17 on: 06 September 2012, 20:52:03 »

Yep easy one that. Remove EVERYTHING on the left side of the engine.

Remove box.

Job done. :y
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feeutfo

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #18 on: 06 September 2012, 21:00:57 »

Pics in a bit. Poor quality iPhone camera in bright sunlight though.

But we discovered the coolant transfer pipe can stay fitted. Just squeezes past if the bolt to towing eye is removed. Saves a lot of agro that. :y
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Andy B

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #19 on: 06 September 2012, 22:07:39 »

You want some copperslip on the backs of the pads :-X ::) :D

<Grabs popcorn and awaits AndyB's comment> :D :D

 ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)  ;D
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feeutfo

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #20 on: 06 September 2012, 22:15:18 »

Pics

Roughly from memory, 2woody can correct or add if needed. (probably will be )


Remove.
Wipers
Scuttle
Coolant and bottle, hose to coolant transfer pipe
Air box
Carbon cannister pipe connection
Fuel lines from manifold
(LPG gubbins)
Brake servo pipe
Master cylinder to servo nuts, pull Mc aside carefully
Servo nuts to bulk head bracket

Stuff 2woody did in footwell
Remove brake pedal stuff, bracket etc (as Haynes)
(acquire spare brake light switch before starting)
Loosen flexi joint column to box

Remove drivers front wheel
Remove drivers centre tie rod to pitman arm
Remove box heat shield
Unplug servo valve electrical connector
Remove flexi pas pipes to box and move forward out the way
Undo box bolts to chassis
Recover Y shaped shims from box top box mount

Withdraw box input shaft from flexi joint to column, while prying apart through master cylinder hole in bulk head
Remove coolant transfer pipe torx bolt to lifting eye
Lift box out past coolant transfer pipe being carefull not to damage servo plug connector

Refit is revers of removal.
But insure marks on box input shaft are dead upright with pitman arm straight, and flat sides of column verticle, this is important.
Adjust box damper by feel, while wiggling steering wheel in dead ahead position.




Final removal past coolant transfer pipe shows torx to lifting eye to remove. Pipe will then flex just enough to pull box past.
 

Input shaft, dead ahead marks


Flexi joint in correct position as it should be in the car I believe? Shows the flat sides, at least, in the hole where the column locates to insure steering wheel is straight to box and hence box damper.
« Last Edit: 06 September 2012, 22:23:23 by chrisgixer »
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feeutfo

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #21 on: 06 September 2012, 22:18:28 »

Just add, there is no way on gods green earth that the box will come out from under neith. It must come out the top. :y


Hth
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Lazydocker

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #22 on: 06 September 2012, 22:58:05 »

 Do you need a new brake switch?
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Whatever it is... I didn't do it

feeutfo

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #23 on: 06 September 2012, 23:00:52 »

Nah we had a spare from the mv6. :y

They are very brittle, and easy to, er .... brake. :-\ ;D

The car has been driven, all ok. :y
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Lazydocker

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #24 on: 06 September 2012, 23:08:28 »

Nah we had a spare from the mv6. :y

They are very brittle, and easy to, er .... brake. :-\ ;D

The car has been driven, all ok. :y
Yep... You managed to get that one out ok then ::)
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Whatever it is... I didn't do it

feeutfo

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #25 on: 06 September 2012, 23:14:26 »

Nah we had a spare from the mv6. :y

They are very brittle, and easy to, er .... brake. :-\ ;D

The car has been driven, all ok. :y
Yep... You managed to get that one out ok then ::)
as you know from experience, it's a team effort. ;)


...Well "somebody" had to make the tea. ;D
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2woody

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #26 on: 06 September 2012, 23:29:07 »

Thanks to both - you're too kind.......

I finally got home at 19.00 this evening. So that's 2 and a half hours to Mum's last night, plus nearly eight hours in the Disco today.

On the instructions, I'd add the following...

remove aux cooling pump and hoses from inner wing
remove bonnet alarm switch

try not to muller the brake lamp switch whilst in the footwell

next time, try to picka job with a bit more to go at  8)





be sure to visit filchedtools.com soon for a great selection of hardly-used equipment
« Last Edit: 06 September 2012, 23:33:50 by 2woody »
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feeutfo

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #27 on: 06 September 2012, 23:34:25 »

:y


That's a long way in a Tractor. :-\
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omega3000

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #28 on: 07 September 2012, 07:38:35 »

How long did that take to do  ::) "thoughts of vx doing it" + vat  ::)  ;D
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feeutfo

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Re: Thanks to 2(the whirlwind)woody
« Reply #29 on: 07 September 2012, 07:51:10 »

The box? Or everything?

Total bill for everything from a vx dealer.... Probably about 5k. ;D
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