Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: MV6Danny on 04 May 2013, 22:03:43
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Hi guys i am used to driving a 3.0 v6 but just bought a 2.5td. Now i know its not going to be anywhere near as fast but the diesel doesnt seem to have any power until about 2500 revs. :'( is this normal? i know there is the problem of turbo lag but it seems rather extreme. Also when i take my foot off the accelerator pedal the eml flashes on the off any ideas what that could be or do i need to get the fault codes read ??? Is there anything i can do to try and give it a bit more power in the low revs? dont really want to be driving around at over 2500 rpm all the time. :y
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Detuned in the Omega, to around 125bhp. If a manual, can be chipped back to full BMW spec
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I would start with waste gate blocked, meaning its taking more revs before it starts boosting
;)
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First do paper clip test and tell us all faults that could you read..
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Detuned in the Omega, to around 125bhp. If a manual, can be chipped back to full BMW spec
How or where do i get that done?
I would start with waste gate blocked, meaning its taking more revs before it starts boosting
;)
How would i check that?
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First do paper clip test and tell us all faults that could you read..
I will do that in the morning :y
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2.5TD Manuals arnt that bad tbh even thougth detuned. Depending how old it is not all of them can be papercliped (from experience). I would do the Diesel Magic trick and or suspect the MAF.
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2.5TD Manuals arnt that bad tbh even thougth detuned. Depending how old it is not all of them can be papercliped (from experience). I would do the Diesel Magic trick and or suspect the MAF.
Whats the diesel magic trick ???
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2.5TD Manuals arnt that bad tbh even thougth detuned. Depending how old it is not all of them can be papercliped (from experience). I would do the Diesel Magic trick and or suspect the MAF.
Its a 97
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2.5TD Manuals arnt that bad tbh even thougth detuned. Depending how old it is not all of them can be papercliped (from experience). I would do the Diesel Magic trick and or suspect the MAF.
Whats the diesel magic trick ???
Fuel addictive :y
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Detuned in the Omega, to around 125bhp. If a manual, can be chipped back to full BMW spec
How or where do i get that done?
Drop a PM to Omegatoy or TheBoy
As there are various types of chips available, some plug and play some need soldering in.
But only chip if its a manual, if an auto you need to drop in the stronger AR35 from 3.0/3.2 :y
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I've had my TD 14 years, and, yes it was sluggish compared to the 3.2, however, now it is chipped and with an AR35 box, it has put a smile on my face.
Simple things first:
1. PROVIDED that your coolant system is in good shape, clean, flushed, and filled with GM red antifreeze 50/50, remove the viscous fan, if fitted.
2. Check the rubber (possibly braided) pipe from the centre bottom of the air intake manifold to the electrical gizmo (an expert will remind me what this does ::)) next to the power steering reservoir. This pipe needs to be clear and have no splits anywhere.
3. If service history not known, or in any case, give it a thorough service, oil change, GM 10W-40, oil filter, air filter, and fuel filter. Before connecting the latter, fill the housing with Diesel Magic (about £6.50).
Experience by OOF TD owners has demonstrated that oil changes should be done every 3000 miles on this engine.
Report back if it is still down on power.
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I've had my TD 14 years, and, yes it was sluggish compared to the 3.2, however, now it is chipped and with an AR35 box, it has put a smile on my face.
Simple things first:
1. PROVIDED that your coolant system is in good shape, clean, flushed, and filled with GM red antifreeze 50/50, remove the viscous fan, if fitted.
2. Check the rubber (possibly braided) pipe from the centre bottom of the air intake manifold to the electrical gizmo (an expert will remind me what this does ::)) next to the power steering reservoir. This pipe needs to be clear and have no splits anywhere.
3. If service history not known, or in any case, give it a thorough service, oil change, GM 10W-40, oil filter, air filter, and fuel filter. Before connecting the latter, fill the housing with Diesel Magic (about £6.50).
Experience by OOF TD owners has demonstrated that oil changes should be done every 3000 miles on this engine.
Report back if it is still down on power.
Boost sensor ... IIRC ... :-[
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The lump's de-rated to 128 BHP in the Omega.
'Plus 5' chip sends it back to BMW design spec of 143 BHP plus 5%; so then around 150-ish horses.
Turbo also kicks in earlier at around 1250 RPM :y
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I've had my TD 14 years, and, yes it was sluggish compared to the 3.2, however, now it is chipped and with an AR35 box, it has put a smile on my face.
Simple things first:
1. PROVIDED that your coolant system is in good shape, clean, flushed, and filled with GM red antifreeze 50/50, remove the viscous fan, if fitted.
2. Check the rubber (possibly braided) pipe from the centre bottom of the air intake manifold to the electrical gizmo (an expert will remind me what this does ::)) next to the power steering reservoir. This pipe needs to be clear and have no splits anywhere.
3. If service history not known, or in any case, give it a thorough service, oil change, GM 10W-40, oil filter, air filter, and fuel filter. Before connecting the latter, fill the housing with Diesel Magic (about £6.50).
Experience by OOF TD owners has demonstrated that oil changes should be done every 3000 miles on this engine.
Report back if it is still down on power.
Boost sensor ... IIRC ... :-[
Thanks Seth. :y :y :y
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(http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h355/dantheman1978/20130505_140854.jpg)
Should there be a vacume pipe or something connected next to the small pipe that is connected?
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Yep, a vacuum pipe goes down the centre of the block and disappears into the bulkhead via the Pollen filter/drain housing on the nearside. I suspect it is a climate control connection, but someone will be along shortly to qualify that. :y
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43954633/20130505_140854.jpg)
Should there be a vacume pipe or something connected next to the small pipe that is connected?
Yes indeed ... a small bore rubber tube that should connect to the boost sensor! ;D
Try searching under/around the forward inlet manifold support bracket for it.
Will see if I can find a photie ... :P
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Oh right. I have a pipe connected to the boost sensor which is located next to the power steering reservoir. That pipe is connected to the underside of the inlet manifold. I thought this main pipe that connects to the brake servo is connected to a vacume motor on the other end. I am new to diesels and have no idea.
Just to make things worse I just went to the shop and got just round the corner from my house on the way back and the car just cut out. Wont start now. I dont know if it has run out of fuel but the light has only just come on and the gauge is not right on the bottom. If it is out of fuel do I need to bleed it before it will start?
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43954633/20130505_140854.jpg)
Should there be a vacume pipe or something connected next to the small pipe that is connected?
Yes indeed ... a small bore rubber tube that should connect to the boost sensor! ;D
Try searching under/around the forward inlet manifold support bracket for it.
Will see if I can find a photie ... :P
Mine goes through the bulkhead Seth, as above. :y
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The pipe that is connected goes to the back of the engine then through the bulk head on the passenger side. Is there supposed to be something else connected to the blue t aswell as the pipe going through the bulkhead?
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Oh right. I have a pipe connected to the boost sensor which is located next to the power steering reservoir. That pipe is connected to the underside of the inlet manifold. I thought this main pipe that connects to the brake servo is connected to a vacume motor on the other end. I am new to diesels and have no idea.
^^^ Correct ^^^
BUT ... there's also a second pipe that connects the sensor to that 'open' connection in da photie! ;)
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43954633/20130505_140854.jpg)
Mine goes through the bulkhead Seth, as above. :y
Aye, we knows that ... but da 'missing' pipe doesn't ... Ya needs te read ma reply, man ... ::)
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43954633/20130505_140854.jpg)
Mine goes through the bulkhead Seth, as above. :y
Aye, we knows that ... but da 'missing' pipe doesn't ... Ya needs te read ma reply, man ... ::)
I did look for a loose pipe but couldnt see one. If its missing where is it supposed to connect to? If I knew that then I could try tracing it from the other end. Will take a pic tomorrow of some other parts and post them to see if I am looking in the right place for the boost sensor.
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Oh right. I have a pipe connected to the boost sensor which is located next to the power steering reservoir. That pipe is connected to the underside of the inlet manifold. I thought this main pipe that connects to the brake servo is connected to a vacume motor on the other end. I am new to diesels and have no idea.
^^^ Correct ^^^
BUT ... there's also a second pipe that connects the sensor to that 'open' connection in da photie! ;)
Strange, as my second pipe, as well as the other already connected, goes through the bulkhead????? :o :o :o
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Oh right. I have a pipe connected to the boost sensor which is located next to the power steering reservoir. That pipe is connected to the underside of the inlet manifold. I thought this main pipe that connects to the brake servo is connected to a vacume motor on the other end. I am new to diesels and have no idea.
^^^ Correct ^^^
Do you have climate control on yours as I dont have it on mine. Will get and take some pics in a min and get them on here
BUT ... there's also a second pipe that connects the sensor to that 'open' connection in da photie! ;)
Strange, as my second pipe, as well as the other already connected, goes through the bulkhead????? :o :o :o
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Found the pipe. Reconnected it and it doesnt make any difference. I will be servicing it next weekend. Hopefully that might make it better.
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Hi guys i am used to driving a 3.0 v6 but just bought a 2.5td. Now i know its not going to be anywhere near as fast but the diesel doesnt seem to have any power until about 2500 revs. :'( is this normal? i know there is the problem of turbo lag but it seems rather extreme. Also when i take my foot off the accelerator pedal the eml flashes on the off any ideas what that could be or do i need to get the fault codes read ??? Is there anything i can do to try and give it a bit more power in the low revs? dont really want to be driving around at over 2500 rpm all the time. :y
The eml light flashing is a bit worrying this could be the injector pump failing if it is the next thing that will start happening is it will stall when your slowing down at a junction or traffic lights.
As for the vac pipe the end that goes to the bulkhead is a open to atmoshpere. It should have a small filter on the end of it if not fit one.I used a small inline fuel filter.
Last bit of advice try and keep the fuel tank above 1/4 :y
Do a paperclip test and post results
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Hi guys i am used to driving a 3.0 v6 but just bought a 2.5td. Now i know its not going to be anywhere near as fast but the diesel doesnt seem to have any power until about 2500 revs. :'( is this normal? i know there is the problem of turbo lag but it seems rather extreme. Also when i take my foot off the accelerator pedal the eml flashes on the off any ideas what that could be or do i need to get the fault codes read ??? Is there anything i can do to try and give it a bit more power in the low revs? dont really want to be driving around at over 2500 rpm all the time. :y
The eml light flashing is a bit worrying this could be the injector pump failing if it is the next thing that will start happening is it will stall when your slowing down at a junction or traffic lights.
As for the vac pipe the end that goes to the bulkhead is a open to atmoshpere. It should have a small filter on the end of it if not fit one.I used a small inline fuel filter.
Last bit of advice try and keep the fuel tank above 1/4 :y
Do a paperclip test and post results
Thanks. That sounds expensive if it the injector pump. I will try and do a paperclip test in the morning when I get up failing that I will ask my mate at work to bring his code reader in. I will post results when known.
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Done paperclip test. Fault codes are:
31 no engine rpm
64 fuel quantity control out of range
92 cruise control device circuit open or high voltage
96 egr valve out of range
Well cruise control stalk not fitted so does this mean cruise control is enabled?
As for 64 and 96 what do they mean? Replace egr valve for 96? How do I sort out code 64?
Thanks hope someone can advise. :y
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Could any of these faults be caused by a tuning box? Should I remove it and read the faults again :y
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does your rev counter work if it does ignore code 31
92 ignore if you dont have cruise control
96 best to blank off egr you might find its already blanked off.
64 try putting forte diesel treatment direct into a new fuel filter (pour the whole bottle into filter) start the engine and hold the revs around 1800 rpm for a couple of mins. You might need to repeat this a couple of times (you only need to empty out the diesel out of the filter by this stage then repeat the process).But bottom line to get rid of 64 if this fails its a new injector pump ive been there done that.
When it starts stalling then at junctions/traffic lights I personaly would drive it to the nearest breakers a new pump costs £1400+vat I managed to get a re-con for £860
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It does seem like its trying to stall when I change gear. Got a flat spot then picks up again. I will see if I can source a second hand pump from somewhere if the diesel treatment doesnt work. The guy I bought it off was running it on used cooking oil so thats probably whats done it. Never mind. I will drive it til it dies if I cant get another pump. :y
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Have you completed the service items suggested above, inc. Diesel Magic or similar?
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Have you completed the service items suggested above, inc. Diesel Magic or similar?
No not yet. I plan to do it saturday provided that all my filters turn up. If they dont then I will go to motor factors andbuy a fuel filter and try giving the fuel system a clean first. Diesel magic has been ordered aswell. Will get some forte diesel treatment aswell to put directly into filter as suggested by hoofing it. :y
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Have you completed the service items suggested above, inc. Diesel Magic or similar?
No not yet. I plan to do it saturday provided that all my filters turn up. If they dont then I will go to motor factors andbuy a fuel filter and try giving the fuel system a clean first. Diesel magic has been ordered aswell. Will get some forte diesel treatment aswell to put directly into filter as suggested by hoofing it. :y
You only need either one of these.
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Have you completed the service items suggested above, inc. Diesel Magic or similar?
No not yet. I plan to do it saturday provided that all my filters turn up. If they dont then I will go to motor factors andbuy a fuel filter and try giving the fuel system a clean first. Diesel magic has been ordered aswell. Will get some forte diesel treatment aswell to put directly into filter as suggested by hoofing it. :y
You only need either one of these.
Ok cheers. I have the diesel magic now. Should I just fill the fuel filter straight up with it or put it in the tank when I fit a new fuel filter? :y
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It does seem like its trying to stall when I change gear. Got a flat spot then picks up again. I will see if I can source a second hand pump from somewhere if the diesel treatment doesnt work. The guy I bought it off was running it on used cooking oil so thats probably whats done it. Never mind. I will drive it til it dies if I cant get another pump. :y
Theres the answer to your problem (cooking oil) these engines hate it. the fuel pump will be knackered because diesel lubricates the guts of the pump where as cooking oil doesn't.
It's the same as running the engine with no oil.
Theres no point wasting money on diesel magic it won't work
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Have you completed the service items suggested above, inc. Diesel Magic or similar?
No not yet. I plan to do it saturday provided that all my filters turn up. If they dont then I will go to motor factors andbuy a fuel filter and try giving the fuel system a clean first. Diesel magic has been ordered aswell. Will get some forte diesel treatment aswell to put directly into filter as suggested by hoofing it. :y
You only need either one of these.
Ok cheers. I have the diesel magic now. Should I just fill the fuel filter straight up with it or put it in the tank when I fit a new fuel filter? :y
See Posts #11 and #31. :-X
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I believe ive still got the diesel pump that TB gave me ages ago sitting in my garage somewhere, If you need it then let me know ASAP & i'll search it out, I'm going down to Brize Norton in a couple of days if you could meet me somewhere near there & pick it up. :y, i was given it for gratis so my price is the same!!.
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I believe ive still got the diesel pump that TB gave me ages ago sitting in my garage somewhere, If you need it then let me know ASAP & i'll search it out, I'm going down to Brize Norton in a couple of days if you could meet me somewhere near there & pick it up. :y, i was given it for gratis so my price is the same!!.
Sorry, Ive just remembered that when it was given to me by TB there was mention of a donation to the club coffers to whoever found a use for it so that'll have to be negotiated with TB himself, flaming beers gave me a memory lapse last night & forgot that bit of info. ;)
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64 - empty the fuel filter, fill it with diesel magic, refit and start it (it will run like a bag of spanners for a minute of so.
64 and 96 are common codes if not running quite right - so I'd give it a proper service.
Cruise - add the (TD specific) stalk, and it will work.
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I believe ive still got the diesel pump that TB gave me ages ago sitting in my garage somewhere, If you need it then let me know ASAP & i'll search it out, I'm going down to Brize Norton in a couple of days if you could meet me somewhere near there & pick it up. :y, i was given it for gratis so my price is the same!!.
Sorry, Ive just remembered that when it was given to me by TB there was mention of a donation to the club coffers to whoever found a use for it so that'll have to be negotiated with TB himself, flaming beers gave me a memory lapse last night & forgot that bit of info. ;)
I have pm'd you :y
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64 - empty the fuel filter, fill it with diesel magic, refit and start it (it will run like a bag of spanners for a minute of so.
64 and 96 are common codes if not running quite right - so I'd give it a proper service.
Cruise - add the (TD specific) stalk, and it will work.
I half filled a new filter with it and half diesel. Didnt make much difference still have eml flashing when I take my foot off accelerator pedal. Not doing as much but still doing it. Will buy another bottle and try the whole lot in the fuel filter this weekend and see what happens. I did go to the breakers at the weekend to see if I could get hold of a new injector pump, but they only had a 51 plate petrol think it was a 2.2. But on the plus side a did manage to get 2 complete front doors with wing mirrors no rust on them anywhere also found a cargo net in the boot still in the original bag from the factory unopened and a good set of floor mats got the lot for £63 so not a total waste of time. The doors are gonna be sprayed and put on my mv6. Need to get the rear arches cut out and replaced aswell. Just need to get a drivers rear door now. Couldnt get the pins out of that one. Might go back this weekendand get the 2 front wings if they are in good nick.
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Confirm that you have completed the rest of the service, air filter, oil & filter, AND checked the boost pipe from the inlet manifold to the boost sensor is clear and has no leaks? :y
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Mine never had any problems pickining up from low revs. Although it was a 99S on a manual, the engine pulled well. Saying that its currently dead due to a wiring fault so let me know if you need any parts and i'll see if I can help.
Kam
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I've had my 2.5 td (manual) for a few months now and I'd agree I was utterly disappointed with the sluggishness of the car. It wasn't inspiring at all, In fact I was g to move it on because it felt I couldn't hack how hard work it was to drive.
After a full service and some addition of diesel treatment I noticed very little difference.
And thought the only way I can remedy this is with a chip tune. Now I phoned a few local tuning centres and they couldn't get hold of the chip set needed to tune this car.
but I was given a number for a lad who does the chips for these.
I got a chip off him and my car is a world away from what I started with.
It boosts and pulls from around 1500 rpm. Rather than 2500 and i would recommend this route without hesitation. How ever you need to find someone who is willing to unsolder your chip and resolder a dill socket in to your ecu. Once this is done I'm sure you'll be a lot happier.