Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: TheBoy on 27 October 2013, 11:21:10
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How much water does it hold (not measured yet, approx 1.4m, not sure on height, upstairs so slightly taller, single rad)?
Can I get away with closing the valves either end (one is only a thermo one), rather than drain down, as I lack a hose to drain.
Are the nuts a std size, if so what, as I'll need to buy a spanner.
Guess what my task is today :(
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How much water does it hold (not measured yet, approx 1.4m, not sure on height, upstairs so slightly taller, single rad)?
Can I get away with closing the valves either end (one is only a thermo one), rather than drain down, as I lack a hose to drain.
Are the nuts a std size, if so what, as I'll need to buy a spanner.
Guess what my task is today :(
Certainly you can get away with valve closure, borrow Mrs TB's small baking pan and place under one of the valves, and after ensuring both valves closed, (you may have to remove the thermo top unit to ensure that is shut,) crack one connection slowly and gradually drain it into pan (do not open bleed valve until necessary to get all the water out). When removing rad, remember there will still be a few ml of, usually horribly black, water/sediment still remaining. Nuts are about 21mm, not always the same.
After fitting new rad with a pressurised system, recharge to required, 1 bar, pressure, and bleed system as necessary, non-pressurised will top up from your header tank, but bleeding is still required. HTH:y
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Ah, how do I remove thermo unit... ...I was just gonna turn it to its lowest setting :-[
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Also, just ptfe tape on the new threads, nothing more?
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I can't see Shackeng's reply until I quote ???
It's there now :-\
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Sorry kept adding bits. I use ptfe tape and Jet-blue, as there is nothing worse than a slight weep. The thermo top should be removable depending on make, if not, it should close at coldest setting. :y
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Ah, how do I remove thermo unit... ...I was just gonna turn it to its lowest setting :-[
Is your system pressurised or header tank?
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Ah, how do I remove thermo unit... ...I was just gonna turn it to its lowest setting :-[
Is your system pressurised or header tank?
Its a proper system :P
So header tank :y
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valves close off the system not the rad you will have to drain it
OR
put some old towels under each end,
close valves (TRV must be past * to be off),
place something under bottom of rad (i use my dewalt drill box)
loosen the nuts off the rad,
lift rad off hooks and tilt until top of rad is on floor
remove valve connections and lift rad so upside down (make sure bleed is shut)
You can then empty contents outside
Ta Daaa :y
Practice before doing you have to be quick
Make sure pipes have some movement so that you can lift offf hooks
HTH
Phil
WARNING - just seen - removing the thermo valve top OPENS it not shuts it
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Also, no option to undo bleed valve - thats the reason it needs replacing, its all swollen in that area, looks like rusted under the paintwork, and already showing the signs of a gentle weep.
Noticed, as I thought I should just test the heating before I allow her control back to the thermostat ::)
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Also, no option to undo bleed valve - thats the reason it needs replacing, its all swollen in that area, looks like rusted under the paintwork, and already showing the signs of a gentle weep.
Noticed, as I thought I should just test the heating before I allow her control back to the thermostat ::)
Sounds like it's been weeping for a while, that's why it's rusty.
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shitty microbore pipework, so should be some flexibility in pipes.
Screwfix rad OK, seeing as they are open Sundays? Persumably Rad doesn't need painting etc?
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Ah, how do I remove thermo unit... ...I was just gonna turn it to its lowest setting :-[
Is your system pressurised or header tank?
Its a proper system :P
So header tank :y
You will know if the valves are closed, if you start draining with Mrs TB sat in the loft next the header tank, she will shout stop, when the fill valve opens if you haven't switched both rad valves off correctly. ;D ;D ;D
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Also, no option to undo bleed valve - thats the reason it needs replacing, its all swollen in that area, looks like rusted under the paintwork, and already showing the signs of a gentle weep.
Noticed, as I thought I should just test the heating before I allow her control back to the thermostat ::)
Sounds like it's been weeping for a while, that's why it's rusty.
I reckon its rusted from inside, as its swollen along top, (presumably) rusted under the paint. Dried rust marks at bottom, with is what makes me think its weeped. No stains/marks on carpet.
May have bee like this for a while, as there was a desk hiding it, which has only been moved to allow those useless retards at Evander 6 trips to fit 3 windows.
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shitty microbore pipework, so should be some flexibility in pipes.
Screwfix rad OK, seeing as they are open Sundays? Persumably Rad doesn't need painting etc?
Yep, they have different grades. :y
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shitty microbore pipework, so should be some flexibility in pipes.
Screwfix rad OK, seeing as they are open Sundays? Persumably Rad doesn't need painting etc?
Hmmmmm.....are you sure you wanna do this? House and garage ruined in the same year......... :-\
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shitty microbore pipework, so should be some flexibility in pipes.
Screwfix rad OK, seeing as they are open Sundays? Persumably Rad doesn't need painting etc?
Yep, they have different grades. :y
Could only see one type, just different sizes (ignoring the designer and column types)
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Also, no option to undo bleed valve - thats the reason it needs replacing, its all swollen in that area, looks like rusted under the paintwork, and already showing the signs of a gentle weep.
Noticed, as I thought I should just test the heating before I allow her control back to the thermostat ::)
Sounds like it's been weeping for a while, that's why it's rusty.
I reckon its rusted from inside, as its swollen along top, (presumably) rusted under the paint. Dried rust marks at bottom, with is what makes me think its weeped. No stains/marks on carpet.
May have bee like this for a while, as there was a desk hiding it, which has only been moved to allow those useless retards at Evander 6 trips to fit 3 windows.
Only problem with header tank systems is that small weeps don't show up as with a pressure drop in pressurised systems.
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shitty microbore pipework, so should be some flexibility in pipes.
Screwfix rad OK, seeing as they are open Sundays? Persumably Rad doesn't need painting etc?
Yep, they have different grades. :y
Could only see one type, just different sizes (ignoring the designer and column types)
My Sept catalogue shows at least 3 makes. :y
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An adjustable spanner would be a suggested purchase, and when you go to Screwfix, take a note of the fittings sizes with you just in case :y
If you get stuck, if there's a decent sized B&Q or Home base nearby then you should be able to rustle up every thing you need :y
The big orange box tends to hold a decent stock of plumbing bits and bobs :y
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Silly Q time, how do you measure a rad? Mine measures 520mm high, 1060mm length.
Screwfix range seems to go in 100mm increments?
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An adjustable spanner would be a suggested purchase, and when you go to Screwfix, take a note of the fittings sizes with you just in case :y
If you get stuck, if there's a decent sized B&Q or Home base nearby then you should be able to rustle up every thing you need :y
The big orange box tends to hold a decent stock of plumbing bits and bobs :y
Round these parts, everything is a trip, nought on doorstep (as Brackley DIY closes at 1pm on Saturday).
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One of theses...
http://www.diy.com/nav/rooms/radiators/steel-panel-radiators/-widthmm%3E1100/Barlo-Round-Top-Type-11-Single-Radiator-13088735?skuId=13579410&_requestid=75280 (http://www.diy.com/nav/rooms/radiators/steel-panel-radiators/-widthmm%3E1100/Barlo-Round-Top-Type-11-Single-Radiator-13088735?skuId=13579410&_requestid=75280)
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Silly Q time, how do you measure a rad? Mine measures 520mm high, 1060mm length.
Screwfix range seems to go in 100mm increments?
You may be unlucky if the old one is imperial, as you may then have to consider connection problems, possibly requiring rad valve tails ( item 39763 page 424 in Sept cat), BUT, I don't like using these, and have never fitted one satisfactorily. Plumbers merchants do solid extensions which are much better. :y
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If you've got that much corrosion going on, might be prudent to flush the system and refill with some fresh inhibitor. :-\
Does the boiler "kettle" at all?
You should be able to get a cap to go on the thermostatic valve to close it off properly. Winding them down to the minimum setting won't seal it if the house is cool.
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One of theses...
http://www.diy.com/nav/rooms/radiators/steel-panel-radiators/-widthmm%3E1100/Barlo-Round-Top-Type-11-Single-Radiator-13088735?skuId=13579410&_requestid=75280 (http://www.diy.com/nav/rooms/radiators/steel-panel-radiators/-widthmm%3E1100/Barlo-Round-Top-Type-11-Single-Radiator-13088735?skuId=13579410&_requestid=75280)
600 is too tall, would be desperately close to windowsill?
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Silly Q time, how do you measure a rad? Mine measures 520mm high, 1060mm length.
Screwfix range seems to go in 100mm increments?
You may be unlucky if the old one is imperial, as you may then have to consider connection problems, possibly requiring rad valve tails ( item 39763 page 424 in Sept cat), BUT, I don't like using these, and have never fitted one satisfactorily. Plumbers merchants do solid extensions which are much better. :y
House built in 2001. Presume that would mean metric?
I may be measuring wrong, I've just measured the extremes, not where it bulges for the water etc??
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If you've got that much corrosion going on, might be prudent to flush the system and refill with some fresh inhibitor. :-\
Does the boiler "kettle" at all?
You should be able to get a cap to go on the thermostatic valve to close it off properly. Winding them down to the minimum setting won't seal it if the house is cool.
Cleaned and flushed 2 or 3 years back when changing 3 way valve. 2 bottles of screwfix inhibitor put in.
No idea how long this has been like this, get a feeling last time I could get to bleed valve, I decided against it due to being concerned then... ...that was probably 2 or 3 yrs ago :-[
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::) http://www.diy.com/nav/rooms/radiators/steel-panel-radiators/-heightmm%3E500/Type-11-Single-Panel-Radiator-11598254 :y
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Silly Q time, how do you measure a rad? Mine measures 520mm high, 1060mm length.
Screwfix range seems to go in 100mm increments?
You may be unlucky if the old one is imperial, as you may then have to consider connection problems, possibly requiring rad valve tails ( item 39763 page 424 in Sept cat), BUT, I don't like using these, and have never fitted one satisfactorily. Plumbers merchants do solid extensions which are much better. :y
House built in 2001. Presume that would mean metric?
I may be measuring wrong, I've just measured the extremes, not where it bulges for the water etc??
Yep, metric, measure from the rad sides, top and bottom, ie. the main body. :y
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Measurements:
(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/odds/rad_width.JPG)
I make this 1053mm to extreme edge
(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/odds/rad_height.JPG)
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You want that one then...
http://www.diy.com/nav/rooms/radiators/steel-panel-radiators/-heightmm%3E500/Type-11-Single-Panel-Radiator-11598254?skuId=12108815&_requestid=123306
Best get a wriggle on though, shops shut at 4 :-\
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You want that one then...
http://www.diy.com/nav/rooms/radiators/steel-panel-radiators/-heightmm%3E500/Type-11-Single-Panel-Radiator-11598254?skuId=12108815&_requestid=123306
Best get a wriggle on though, shops shut at 4 :-\
That was the size I was looking at - not from B&Q, as they dont stock any usable sizes, but their more expensive sister company, ShitFix.
However, is that too much to ask of the existing pipework. You have to bear in mind that I have virtually no tools, so cannot get into a position where I am having to modify pipework.
Hence all my queries about me measuring it right, as all the info I can find is that I have, and I just have non std rads throughout the entire house, which seems odd, given the house is 12yrs old.
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Hmmm, I don't recognise that as a size, and would be reluctant to advise you to buy the closest size with any confidence that it would connect easily. It is obviously the width that is critical, and if the new one is 53mm less, you will defo need an extension, and I am not sure whether these are available in small bore size. :-\ :-\ :-\
Incidentally, I can see from your pic that the thermo top comes off, unscrew the threaded ring underneath it. This may then reveal a plunger type, in which case replace it and set cold to close it, if it is a rotary type beneath, just wind closed. :y
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Myson do 530 x 1556 which looks like exactly the size you want. Does it have to be today?
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Measurements:
(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/odds/rad_width.JPG) .....
What girly hands you have! ::) ::) ::)
Seriously, if you have microbore pipework to/from your rads, isn't there a couple of inches of pipework you can pull through :-\ :-\ :-\
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Myson do 530 x 1556 which looks like exactly the size you want. Does it have to be today?
Ideally, and width is 1053, not 1556
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B&Q don't appear to do that size at all.
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What girly hands you have! ::) ::) ::)
No real work possible since 11th July ;D. And, besides, it is the weekend :P
Seriously, if you have microbore pipework to/from your rads, isn't there a couple of inches of pipework you can pull through :-\ :-\ :-\
It has 90 degree fittings where it comes out of wall, so no scope for gaining an inch or so. If I went smaller, I could put some bends in to lose some pipe, but I though microbore kinks if bent?
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Myson do 530 x 1556 which looks like exactly the size you want. Does it have to be today?
Ideally, and width is 1053, not 1556
Look at the picture again Jaime. ::)
530 x 1556 is a standard size.
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What girly hands you have! ::) ::) ::)
No real work possible since 11th July ;D. And, besides, it is the weekend :P
Seriously, if you have microbore pipework to/from your rads, isn't there a couple of inches of pipework you can pull through :-\ :-\ :-\
It has 90 degree fittings where it comes out of wall, so no scope for gaining an inch or so. If I went smaller, I could put some bends in to lose some pipe, but I though microbore kinks if bent?
Correct, without proper tool, http://www.4pipetools.com/ENGLISH/product/__2611S__/A005002/4PIPEtools%C2%AE%20FRANCAIS/Pipe%20Bending%20Tools/Microbore%20Pipe%20Bending/MONUMENT%206mm,%208mm%20%26%2010mm%20MINI%20PIPE%20BENDER%20MON2611 and only before fitting. :y
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Nope, it's his gay tape measure ::) had to look twice, but definitely 1m + 53mm :y
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FFS. He doesn't have to move anything, just buy the correct rad. There ust be one somewhere in the world ;D
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Myson do 530 x 1556 which looks like exactly the size you want. Does it have to be today?
Ideally, and width is 1053, not 1556
Look at the picture again Jaime. ::)
530 x 1556 is a standard size.
He's using a stupid tape, look closer at the 1.0m mark. :y
Too late Al beat me. :(
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I stand corrected. It is a gay tape measure.
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FFS. He doesn't have to move anything, just buy the correct rad. There ust be one somewhere in the world ;D
But possibly not avlbl on Sunday. :y
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If he doesn't hurry up, we won't be able to buy anything ::)
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FFS. He doesn't have to move anything, just buy the correct rad. There ust be one somewhere in the world ;D
But possibly not avlbl on Sunday. :y
Sorry to sound frustrated but...wait until Monday and buy the correct size, or rush out now and buy near enough and start moving pipework? No brainer.
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Myson do a 530x1047mm, presumably this is an old imperial size.
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Myson do a 530x1047mm, presumably this is an old imperial size.
That's the one, I reckon. Have a bacon butty and do it tomorrow/whenever.
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And yeah, its the only tape measure that wasn't in the garage. Branded MFI :P
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Myson do 530 x 1556 which looks like exactly the size you want. Does it have to be today?
Ideally, and width is 1053, not 1556
Look at the picture again Jaime. ::)
530 x 1556 is a standard size.
He's using a stupid tape, look closer at the 1.0m mark. :y
Too late Al beat me. :(
That's really confused me .... since when does 1 metre equate to 43" ??? ??? ???
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Myson do 530 x 1556 which looks like exactly the size you want. Does it have to be today?
Ideally, and width is 1053, not 1556
Look at the picture again Jaime. ::)
530 x 1556 is a standard size.
He's using a stupid tape, look closer at the 1.0m mark. :y
Too late Al beat me. :(
That's really confused me .... since when does 1 metre equate to 43" ??? ??? ???
;D You're only fickin right mate. What is he using? I still reckon it's 1553. ;D ;D
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He's gone quiet now, his brain hurts. ;D
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45+3/8" equates to 1153mm.
Bin it now before it makes someone do something stupid. ;D
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So, are we now saying 530 x 1149?
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So, are we now saying 530 x 1149?
Yes :y
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So, are we now saying 530 x 1149?
Have you not got another tape measure?
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So, are we now saying 530 x 1149?
Have you not got another tape measure?
Not that hasn't deformed badly in heat...
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So, are we now saying 530 x 1149?
Have you not got another tape measure?
Not that hasn't deformed badly in heat...
Surely it's too late to do anything today :-\
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Metric 1100mm rad, and 2 x http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Heating/Radiator+Valves/Rad+Valve+Extension+25mm/d230/sd2762/p65625
?
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Where are the OOF plumbers?
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Metric 1100mm rad, and 2 x http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Heating/Radiator+Valves/Rad+Valve+Extension+25mm/d230/sd2762/p65625
?
That should do it.
Chances are that the original air vent didn't have enough PTFE tape wrapped around it to seal the thread. Surprising how much tape it takes to get a good seal.
Don't forget that you need an enormous Allen key to screw the radiator tail into the radiator. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Plumbers+Tools/Radiator+Hex+Key/d10/sd210/p26053 (http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Plumbers+Tools/Radiator+Hex+Key/d10/sd210/p26053)
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Wouldnt it be easier to shove the desk back up against it and forget about it ::) ;D
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Myson do 530 x 1556 which looks like exactly the size you want. Does it have to be today?
Ideally, and width is 1053, not 1556
Look at the picture again Jaime. ::)
530 x 1556 is a standard size.
He's using a stupid tape, look closer at the 1.0m mark. :y
Too late Al beat me. :(
That's really confused me .... since when does 1 metre equate to 43" ??? ??? ???
Ouch, quite right, I never looked at the Imperial, just what 'purports' to be the 1.0m mark. That is one really useful tape measure. >:( :-X :y
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Myson do 530 x 1556 which looks like exactly the size you want. Does it have to be today?
Ideally, and width is 1053, not 1556
Look at the picture again Jaime. ::)
530 x 1556 is a standard size.
He's using a stupid tape, look closer at the 1.0m mark. :y
Too late Al beat me. :(
That's really confused me .... since when does 1 metre equate to 43" ??? ??? ???
Ouch, quite right, I never looked at the Imperial, just what 'purports' to be the 1.0m mark. That is one really useful tape measure. >:( :-X :y
How do we know the inches on that tape measure are marked correctly :-\ , they could be wrong and the mm correct :-\
I would bin that tape measure and buy another..... :y
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Better still take the old rad to the shops with you ;D
So, are we now saying 530 x 1149?
Have you not got another tape measure?
Not that hasn't deformed badly in heat...
Surely it's too late to do anything today :-\
You just want him to give up so he can pop round a make you that bacon butty ;D
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Well.....what's the latest?
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Replacement rad all fitted yesterday.
Had to drain down (using Mrs TB's craft trays, as no hose), so now need to get some inhibitor.
3 bottles of ShitFix inhibitor enough for my gaff?
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Replacement rad all fitted yesterday.
Had to drain down (using Mrs TB's craft trays, as no hose), so now need to get some inhibitor.
3 bottles of ShitFix inhibitor enough for my gaff?
Well done that man. :y
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Replacement rad all fitted yesterday.
Had to drain down (using Mrs TB's craft trays, as no hose), so now need to get some inhibitor.
3 bottles of ShitFix inhibitor enough for my gaff?
Not sure on quantity you need, but erm, you should have put that in the header tank before you refilled the system, coz guess what.....you've got to drain it again now ::) ;D
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Replacement rad all fitted yesterday.
Had to drain down (using Mrs TB's craft trays, as no hose), so now need to get some inhibitor.
3 bottles of ShitFix inhibitor enough for my gaff?
Not sure on quantity you need, but erm, you should have put that in the header tank before you refilled the system, coz guess what.....you've got to drain it again now ::) ;D
Yeah, was planning on not draining down, but my hand was forced, by which time too late to get some.
On the upside, I've been able to test my work for leaks (did have a weep, which I had to redo), and it counts as a mini flush of the system ;D
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Replacement rad all fitted yesterday.
Had to drain down (using Mrs TB's craft trays, as no hose), so now need to get some inhibitor.
3 bottles of ShitFix inhibitor enough for my gaff?
Not sure on quantity you need, but erm, you should have put that in the header tank before you refilled the system, coz guess what.....you've got to drain it again now ::) ;D
Yeah, was planning on not draining down, but my hand was forced, by which time too late to get some.
On the upside, I've been able to test my work for leaks (did have a weep, which I had to redo), and it counts as a mini flush of the system ;D
Might be worth descaling the system first, if it hasnt ever been done in 12yrs. I did mine nearly two years ago with Fernox50 iirc, good stuff, boiler works less hard after i did it, but dont use it if your boiler has an ally heat exchanger, mine is cast iron so ok to use and it got loads of limescale out of the system :y
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I used a ShitFix cleaner in it last time I drained down, 3 or 4 years ago.
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If you have a ladder style towel radiator in the bathroom, you can add inhibitor by closing both valves, removing one of the plugs at the top of the radiator, syphoning out some water, then pouring the inhibitor in. Replace cap, open valves, bleed radiator. :y
Failing that, if you dump it into the expansion tank, it will eventually work its' way into the system through expansion and contraction of the liquid. It'll just take longer.
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If you have a ladder style towel radiator in the bathroom, you can add inhibitor by closing both valves, removing one of the plugs at the top of the radiator, syphoning out some water, then pouring the inhibitor in. Replace cap, open valves, bleed radiator. :y
Failing that, if you dump it into the expansion tank, it will eventually work its' way into the system through expansion and contraction of the liquid. It'll just take longer.
Theres an easier 'lazy' way ;)
You can buy inhibitor in an aerosol can.....any rad will do....turn off both valves either side of rad....take out bleed screw.....screw pipe attached to aerosol into bleed valve....open valves either side of rad and hit the 'go' button on the aerosol.....when can is empty....turn off valves again, remove pipe and refit bleed screw.....turn on both valvess again....job jobbed :y but it isnt cheap...
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Ffs only just seen this,was at a loose end yesterday and could have popped over with err all the correct tools that i have in my garage :-X
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One bottle should be enough in a normal domestic system
(http://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image/ae235/?$p$&wid=281&hei=281&op_sharpen=1&layer=0&size=281,281&layer=1&size=281,281&src=ae235/79683_P)
I used this kit from Screwfix to get the contents into the towel radiator (as described by KW). It is easy with the towel rad because the air vent is sealed with an O ring but it is not much more difficult with a bog standard rad where the air vent is sealed with PTFE tape.
(http://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image/ae235/?$p$&wid=281&hei=281&op_sharpen=1&layer=0&size=281,281&layer=1&size=281,281&src=ae235/98940_P)
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Academic now I know, but why exactly did you have to drain down?
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Academic now I know, but why exactly did you have to drain down?
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=118874.msg1508281#msg1508281
reply number 9
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Do not ever rely on a thermostatic valve to be closed permanently while doing a rad change or removing a rad for decorating ,depending on the type installed you should have been left the decorators cap which replaces the head,reason being some are designed to open up if it gets cold and you could be in for a flood, :y
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I'm confused. How does closing the rad valve enable removal without bleeding either the rad, or the system...?
One or the other will leak. What have I missed? :-\
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Close both valves ,stops water,in theory,then crack open nuts nearest to radiator and place a container underneath to catch water,and drain that way,unless you have the know how and rad is small enough ,undo both nuts completely at the same time and then press thumbs over the tails on rad lift up and flip over and then take outside to drain,dont do it after heating has been on tho :y
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Academic now I know, but why exactly did you have to drain down?
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=118874.msg1508281#msg1508281
reply number 9
Bleed valve is still closed, so what is easier, drain one rad with it closed or whole system? Still, as I said, academic now. :y
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Academic now I know, but why exactly did you have to drain down?
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=118874.msg1508281#msg1508281
reply number 9
Bleed valve is still closed, so what is easier, drain one rad with it closed or whole system? Still, as I said, academic now. :y
Ahh, I should have paid more attention to the question ::)
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Close both valves ,stops water,in theory,then crack open nuts nearest to radiator and place a container underneath to catch water,and drain that way,unless you have the know how and rad is small enough ,undo both nuts completely at the same time and then press thumbs over the tails on rad lift up and flip over and then take outside to drain,dont do it after heating has been on tho :y
^^^
What he said, piece of p**s :y
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Academic now I know, but why exactly did you have to drain down?
TRV screws straight into rad. So either the valve has to unscrew (thus disconnecting the feed pipe), or the rad has to unscrew (not practical).
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(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/odds/rad_width.JPG)
I was originally suggesting that you should be able to crack that nut behind the 46" mark, and drain from there, or the other end, with both valves off, thus avoiding a full drain down. The stuck bleed valve just makes drainage, either single rad, or system, marginally more annoying. :y
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I know it's all done now but, if anyone has the same problem with the bleed valve, and the rad is to be sacrificed, drill a small hole somewhere near the top to let air in.
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I know it's all done now but, if anyone has the same problem with the bleed valve, and the rad is to be sacrificed, and their electric drill and bits haven't been recently barbecued, drill a small hole somewhere near the top to let air in.
Fixed that for you. :y
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I know it's all done now but, if anyone has the same problem with the bleed valve, and the rad is to be sacrificed, and their electric drill and bits haven't been recently barbecued, drill a small hole somewhere near the top to let air in.
Fixed that for you. :y
:D :D ;)
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I know it's all done now but, if anyone has the same problem with the bleed valve, and the rad is to be sacrificed, and their electric drill and bits haven't been recently barbecued, drill a small hole somewhere near the top to let air in.
Fixed that for you. :y
:D :D ;)
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
-
I know it's all done now but, if anyone has the same problem with the bleed valve, and the rad is to be sacrificed, and their electric drill and bits haven't been recently barbecued, drill a small hole somewhere near the top to let air in.
Fixed that for you. :y
>:(
Revenge shall be sweet...