Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: darrenfos on 18 February 2014, 13:31:55
-
On Fitting f/park sensors can i use a fuse jumper cable, and do i use in cig lighter fuse many thanks darren
-
which wire would be best to tap in to for the front park sensors. any help would be good
-
I'd give it its own fused feed.
But front sensors ???, is it needed on an Omega ???
-
Where to take from, straight from battery with inline fuse
-
What sort of power do they need? Presumably the activation switch will need to be convenient?
I wouldn't pull it from ciggy lighter feed, as that takes enough abuse, but there may be other options depending on power requirements.
-
Its 12v kit
-
Its 12v kit
;D
Current, dear fellow, current :y
-
Is it the black wire behind ashtray, and just put a inline fuse between. Also what amp fuse would be ok. Thanks
-
Fuse size will depend entirely on the current they draw, in Amps :y
Any instructions/clues on or in the box...
-
This is it, its in the corner A<30mA typ. does that help
-
This is it, its in the corner A<30mA typ. does that help
And max current?
-
Does this help nominal voltage 12vdc, voltage range 8-16, max consumption <20m.
-
Does this help nominal voltage 12vdc, voltage range 8-16, max consumption <20m.
Nope, unless that last bit is <20mA
But then, if its cheap chinese shite with a poorly translated manual, you're probably on a hiding to nothing.
If there is no max current rating, need the cross section side of the power cables they supplied.
-
There cobra ones £85
-
There cobra ones £85
Even modern Cobra I'd expect decent instructions.
Got a link for the manual/install guide?
-
I'm surprised Cobra sell front sensors, as most vehicles that need them come with them
-
Cobra fo194
-
*sigh* another company that has let itself go. Every bit of info says Max Consumption < 20m
WTF, that doesn't even make sense. What crap, grrrrr >:(
I wouldn't let such a product near my car, if they can't be bothered to understand what they are providing.
I'd have to assume they mean 20mA which seems low if it has a decent buzzer or a visual unit. Thus, back to cross section of the power leads.
-
What is your advice as i have drilled the holes.
-
What is your advice as i have drilled the holes.
Fibreglass and Bodyfiller ;)
-
If you feel you need them, then you need them.
Its frustrating when the morons won't supply the basic info. Its no point me suggesting a 500mA fuse if the wiring is only good for 100mA - thats how fires start. Do they not supply a fuse, as that may give a small clue?
Does it say how to pick up the speed signal, as that could be your next problem. And suspect you'll still get annoying beeps every time you slow down.
Grrrrrr >:(, chinese tat ;D
-
Buy a smaller car :D
-
.... as most vehicles that need them come with them
Factory fit on the front of my R Class (one of very little factory fit stuff)
-
.... as most vehicles that need them come with them
Factory fit on the front of my R Class (one of very little factory fit stuff)
Mercs are a special case. Their drivers need all the help they can get :P
-
.... as most vehicles that need them come with them
Factory fit on the front of my R Class (one of very little factory fit stuff)
Mercs are a special case. Their drivers need all the help they can get :P
Thanks Jamie ..... you're so kind! ;D ;D
-
.... as most vehicles that need them come with them
Factory fit on the front of my R Class (one of very little factory fit stuff)
Mercs are a special case. Their drivers need all the help they can get :P
That's what I should have had on mine, then I would have known I was about to bounce off a wall and been able to take avoiding action... :D
-
*sigh* another company that has let itself go. Every bit of info says Max Consumption < 20m
WTF, that doesn't even make sense. What crap, grrrrr >:(
I would interpret their figures to mean that whatever happens, the worst case scenario is that the unit will never draw more than 20mA when in use.
PS
I'm with you on a warning buzzer needing more than 20mA (hell, it takes more than that to trigger most relays), but until we have a proper spec list/schematic it's all going to be guess work IMHO.
Without a spec list/schematic the only real way to find out what it draws is to connect it to a 12v bench PSU with an ammeter in series and see what it draws when in a trigger state.
-
Shall i just connect the red wire from kit to a inline fuse holder than solder to cig lighter, also what fuse would you recomend. Cheers
-
Just had a look online and found max consumption is <14 m, operating voltage range 9-16 vdc, nominal voltage 12 vdc. Is that info any good.
-
Shall i just connect the red wire from kit to a inline fuse holder than solder to cig lighter, also what fuse would you recomend. Cheers
We cannot recommend a fuse without knowing the specs! As they are not forthcoming, we'd need to go on the wiring size, hence the question about wiring cross section size. The fuse is purely there to stop the wiring catching fire, not to protect anything else.
I know Cobra aren't the company they were 20yrs ago, but I'm absolutely shocked and stunned they have not included an inline fuse.
"m" is not a meaningful unit of current, its a measure of distance - "metres". It could be they mean mA, but in multiple places they have just used "m", and I'm yet to see mA on any of the docs. This says all I need to know about this product.
So, given that you feel you need them, we need that wiring cross section before I can help further.
-
before i go any further can someone explain (cross section) as im a bit confused then i may be more helpfull.
-
Diameter of conductor (copper wire)
(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR_5CR-zFzwmBNJlRufOWYuR4oytHvOD1U_zS0-sfK1_rRrhZEn6w)
-
right the copper wire is no more than 1mm thick, including the rubber its prob about 1.5mm, and the whole length of wire is just under a meter
-
before i go any further can someone explain (cross section) as im a bit confused then i may be more helpfull.
thin wires can only carry small currents, thick ones carry more, so the cross section (thickness) of the wiring "may" give an indication of the sort of current it is expected to draw ....
-
right the copper wire is no more than 1mm thick, including the rubber its prob about 1.5mm, and the whole length of wire is just under a meter
Is it multistrands in each wire, or a single solid piece of copper. If former, is that 1mm for all the strands combined together?
-
its multi strands.
-
its multi strands.
OK, and that 1mm cross section is all strands combined together, rather than each strand being 1mm?
-
1 red + wire of multistrands and a earth of the size
-
Given your location, pop along to these people...
http://www.ultimateincar.co.uk/
Phone ahead, but I'm sure they will be able to help :-\
-
im thinking of just soldering it on to the cig lighter it does say 12v. so sod it
-
Worst case, the wiring melts and your car catches fire, then the insurers won't pay out because it's an unnapproved modification to the original design...
Still, not my car ::)
-
im just going on there basic instructions it say connect to 12v all i want to know is what amp fuse to put in between to be safe.
-
1 amp then :y
-
do you think putting a 20 amp fuse in the middle of the connections is ok
-
do you think putting a 20 amp fuse in the middle of the connections is ok
Er... no :o
Hence my previous two answers :-X
-
Yet another
three four pages of internet space wasted :-\
Must be summat in the air...
-
Nominal voltage: 12 VDC
Operating voltage range: 9-16 VDC
Working temperature: -40c - +85c
Dimensions: 63 x 29 x 75 mm
Max consumption: <14 m
does this help,
-
when you said 1 amp a thought you were taking the mick, so 1 amp that's ok i just need a bit of help i dont know the ins and out's of electrics that's why i am a bit confused
-
That is the maximum I can recommend given the total lack of meaningful information supplied with the unit :-\
-
will it work with a 1 amp fuse.
-
I think i may have cracked it. On the instruction pics, its got a solder iron pic with rear light, then says switch button on, then it has a pic of stick in reverse sounds odd for front sensors but maybe its for street parking, so i should wire into reverse wire maybe.
-
With the greatest respect .... you obviously haven't got a clue what you are doing ... may I suggest you get someone who actually KNOWS how to do car wiring to do it for you ???
The way you are going I see a big red vehicle full of water arriving at your car with blue lights flashing and men with fancy coats on ... and its NOT a mobile disco ......
:-\ :-\
-
I only ask for advice. As this website is for help after reading the instructions the only conclution is to wire the + in to reverse. I think it sounds odd but if your paralel parking it makes sence they would be on at front. Please excuse any spelling mistakes, and those who have helped me i thank you.
-
I only ask for advice. As this website is for help after reading the instructions the only conclution is to wire the + in to reverse. I think it sounds odd but if your paralel parking it makes sence they would be on at front. Please excuse any spelling mistakes, and those who have helped me i thank you.
If you feed the sensors with a connection to the reverse lights, then the sensors are just going to be reverse sensors ....... no way on earth will they turn on when going forwards. As to whether 1 amp fuse will work .... who knows? What Jamie and others are saying is that the info you've given ie what's in the instructions doesn't give enough/correct information. Current is measured in Amps and small current in milliAmps (thousandths of Amps) Best guess is that <14m should actually read <14mA in which case, the 1 amp fuse would be sufficient. But you'll still need to look out the front window when you're parallel parking .... unless you just use a separate on/off switch to switch BOTH sensors.
-
So with a 1 amp fuse in line to cig lighter will be fine thats all i was asking all along. the switch is all built in there is only 2 wires a red and black. Thankyou
-
Does any of this make sence to you +15/54, and also A<30mA typ
-
So with a 1 amp fuse in line to cig lighter will be fine .......
Probably. But as said, the info you've been given isn't enough to tell you definitely one way or t'other. ;)
-
Does any of this make sence to you +15/54, and also A<30mA typ
None ??? As above, the instructions supplied just don't give enough info
-
That +15/54 has got parkmaster next to it coming off a meter on the leaflet
-
That +15/54 has got parkmaster next to it coming off a meter on the leaflet
Is it a model number? :-\
-
No model is cobra F0194s
-
Also that <14mA is correct i found on another website
-
(http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee386/dbugit/guidedogsm_zpse2f2a29d.png) ;)
-
darrenfos, accept what you have bought is a heap of shite, and won't ever work right.
BUT if you must fit the useless bloody things, based on the half answers you have given to the queries we've asked in order to help you, here are some thoughts:
When I looked it up on the internet, that device needs a speed signal from somewhere, so there must be more that "just 2 wires" (beyond the 4 ultrasonic sensors). Just connecting up the 2 wires will not work properly, unless you like driving along listening to beep beep beep all the time - that would get on my tits, and I'm sure yours.
These, you say, are Front sensors. You are reading instructions for Rear sensors (hence the instruction to wire up to reverse lights). If that is the only instructions, ask the supplier for the proper instructions - may as well ask for the correct current draw at the same time.
It absolutely, categorically, completely, 100% MUST BE FUSED. You never answered the queries about the wiring cross section, so we cannot tell you fuse size. Given what you have said, I would not go above 1A, though I'd be more cautious, and go with 500mA Quick Blow fuse.
I wouldn't wire into ciggy lighter - that takes enough abuse dealing with other shite plugged in, I'd look for another suitable switched 12v feed with enough capacity to spare 1A (which rules out seat feeds). The ign feed to radio may be sufficient, depending on radio fitted.
If there is no speed signal to wire in, and no dash switch, send it back with a note along the lines of "This is a heap of chinese junk, please refund in full". Certainly the blurb on the net implies it uses a speed signal. Either it must detect speed, so it only works at less than 2mph etc, or there must be a switch to enable and disable it for when you want to park. If not, the thing will be constantly beeping when cruising down the motorway.
If you provide answers to questions asked, you are likely to get some help. As it stands, from what little snippets you have given us, we cannot tell you how/where to fit. Although by the sounds of it, it doesn't sound like its worth fitting.
-
I put parking sensors on front - wired in with a fuse ( can't remember what rating) via a switch -- as with no speed sensor input it gave sqeaks when moving at anything above 5 mph - so was only switched on when nudging close to garage door(sensor was cheaper than garage door as I can barely see over the bonnet).
but as has been said previously the fuse is to protect the wiring and prevent fires , IF you DON'T KNOW what you are doing get some who does to sort it for you.
-
as I can barely see over the bonnet
I'll buy you a kiddie's booster cushion :P ;D
-
the kit that was supplied all connects together and you have 3 wires 2 of which are ground 1 of them runs along with the red 12v wire and the other earth come's of the on/off switch everything else is wired straight into the main control unit, there is no info to say it is speed controlled and i wired it today to cig lighter and it all worked. Tomorrow i will go and get a inline fuse and fit it, also would like to add i dont use the cig lighter at all so doesn't get used.
-
Might be a good idea to leave the power sounder connected :-X
-
(http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae199/darrenfos/20140220_200208_zps524c2523.jpg) (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/darrenfos/media/20140220_200208_zps524c2523.jpg.html)(http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae199/darrenfos/20140220_200159_zpsdaa70b65.jpg) (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/darrenfos/media/20140220_200159_zpsdaa70b65.jpg.html)
-
(http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae199/darrenfos/20140220_201654_zps1e6d267d.jpg)[/URL ] the w going in the number 4 is the switch (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/darrenfos/media/20140220_201654_zps1e6d267d.jpg.html)
-
(http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae199/darrenfos/20140220_1307181_zps2a5381b8.jpg) (http://s971.photobucket.com/user/darrenfos/media/20140220_1307181_zps2a5381b8.jpg.html)
-
So the red wire connects to the reverse lights and the white wire connects to the switched ignition live. The second red wire connects to the buzzer and it's anyones guess what colour the earth is ::)
-
the buzzer and switch are connector plugs that just click onto the loom there are only 3 wires that have to be wired, 1 red and two black earths of which one of them is the wire that comes of the on/off button
-
the buzzer and switch are connector plugs that just click onto the loom there are only 3 wires that have to be wired, 1 red and two black earths of which one of them is the wire that comes of the on/off button
That counters the instructions. "The w in number 4 goes to the switch..." is also wrong...
Step 10 clearly shows it going to the ignition switched live ::)
The switch requires two wires to work.
I wouldn't be connecting any of that to the cars wiring :-X
-
sorry (the w is the switch) it has two wires a red of which plugs into the multi connector position 4, then into the main unit and a black earth wire, the buzzer has a connector that just connects to the loom then you just have two wires left a red for the live and a black earth.
-
Switch still requires two wires to work...
-
it does have to wires a red and a black, red goes into control box and black is earth
-
also the whole things works perfectly, as a front sensor's should but i wanted to make it safe with a fuse.
-
i cant remember who mentioned it but would a glass milli amp fuse holder be better and safer
-
Those outside sensors need to be closer to the corner of the bumper if you want true corner protection.
-
if i put a 2 amp fuse between the positive and the cig lighter will it work or is that to low
-
if i put a 2 amp fuse between the positive and the cig lighter will it work or is that to low
As it only draws 30mA, a 1amp fuse is too big really.
-
what about the small glass radio type ones
-
500mA Quickblow Glass 20mm Fuse from maplin that sounds better
-
500mA Quickblow Glass 20mm Fuse from maplin that sounds better
Thats what I would use, going by the wire sizes you hinted at earlier (but never confirmed).
I'd also stay away from ciggy lighter, probably take it from the switched 12v going to radio instead :)
-
I reckon the unit will draw no more than 3 or 4 Watts, so I would go along with the 500mA Quick Blow as suggested already many a times.
If you want an in line glass fuse holder (minus the fuse) pm me your Addy and I'll post one, got loads kicking around.
-
All sorted now with glass fuse. Thanks for the offer zirk, and to all that helped me, just better to be safe.
-
One thing i can be proud of is that bumper full respray with cans
-
One thing i can be proud of is that bumper full respray with cans
The respray does look good from the pics, but you still have those corner sensors too far in towards the middle of the bumper (they need to be pretty much on the corner if you want them to work as intended).
-
Well that kept me entertained for a while, must pop in here more often......... :D :D :D