Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: pernix on 10 March 2015, 18:51:44
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Bought a new idler less than 2500 miles ago (fitted in june ) today failed mot on play in idler anything else that could cause it to fail so quickly or is it just down to a poor quality part
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Have to say, it would seem to be a poor part. Quite a few seem to be rubbish from new. Where did you get it?, who fitted it?
I mean, any chance of taking it back? :-\
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Noooo you don't want "a new" idler. You want a GM idler. Genuine only. Which means from a dealer. Only. Or good used one if possible.
Sadly they are proven to be the ONLY reliable part. Why "sadly"? Because they are £110 retail :'( (£90 odd trade)
Even the Lemforder ones don't last. Oe supplier. :(
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came from vauhallparts uk and fitted by local garage......seller says if I send it back they will examine it to see if its faulty (not much good to me as the car will be unusable in the time it takes) easier to get another and mot pass
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came from vauhallparts uk and fitted by local garage......seller says if I send it back they will examine it to see if its faulty (not much good to me as the car will be unusable in the time it takes) easier to get another and mot pass
Yep, get a gm one, wack that on get yourself sorted, send the pattern shite one back for a refund. You won't want another one of those. Noooooooo
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Seconded. GM new, or known good second hand the only way to go. A known good second hand is what's going on my lady either as preventative maintenance or when the current one goes wobbly :)
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I fitted a Lemforder a few months ago and it appeared to be back to the original quality which makes me wonder if there was some dodgy copies in the system for a while. It even had the same casting marks as the original Gm part (and as we know Lemforder, make these for Gm)
So the Lemforder part number is 14927 01 (Vx part number 9195731) and interestingly, they now supply the insert bush against part number 11602 03 (and show a Vx part number of 920361.....which may or may not exist)
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Interesting. Both the lemorders I saw had no markings what so ever. Iirc
Swapping the insert out would be the way to go on cost.
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Do you know if the part is still good?
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Absolutely fine, still as tight as a Nuns chuff :y
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Won't ask how you know that.. :)
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Won't ask how you know that.. :)
I grabbed it and gave it a good wiggle
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Presumably nothing fell off... :o
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Bought a new idler less than 2500 miles ago (fitted in june ) today failed mot on play in idler anything else that could cause it to fail so quickly or is it just down to a poor quality part
I had the same thing happen to me a couple of years ago, It turned out that the pin it is mounted on had also worn so a new idler on it's own wasn't enough, I first went & got a quote from VX dealers for the idler & pin, Then after picking myself off the floor I decided to hunt the scrap yards, Luckily I found an assembly that looked virtually new & genuine VX so I grabbed that & stuck it on, Problem solved :y, If you do go the used route I would suggest leaving the idler arm on the pin & just unbolt it as complete assembly (2 bolts in the inner wing) as some things are best left undisturbed. :y
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It would be good just to replace the inner rubber bushing, especially if we could avoid undoing that ball joint to idler arm pita.
Although removing the inner takes a good swing with hammer and drift. Or maybe a bearing puller might work? :-\
Items pictured here.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=121732.15
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It's a simple press job. Especially fitting the new bush, as you don't want to damage it with a hammer. Although once again, there's no way I'd be grovelling about under the car fitting a bush just to avoid splitting a balljoint.
Do we have a price just for the bush, as the cost of the complete arm is quite high, unlike for a BMW. The Lemforder idler arm I fitted to my 525 was about £20, which made just buying the bush for £12 or a pattern arm for £15 pointless.
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It's a simple press job. Especially fitting the new bush, as you don't want to damage it with a hammer. Although once again, there's no way I'd be grovelling about under the car fitting a bush just to avoid splitting a balljoint.
Do we have a price just for the bush, as the cost of the complete arm is quite high, unlike for a BMW. The Lemforder idler arm I fitted to my 525 was about £20, which made just buying the bush for £12 or a pattern arm for £15 pointless.
The room between the boot is very tight to the centre drag link. There's very little room to get a splitter in there, and hence a danger of tearing the boot, if conventional shocking techniques don't work. No room to swing a bat.
No,press required to remove, although I doubt anyone has fitted a sleave replacememt on here or we would know about it already. But I'd bet a vice would do it.
Obviously it's not splitting the ball joint that's the issue, its doing so without ripping the "no longer available on its own sir, you have to buy the £200 odd centre drag link to get that boot" boot itself.
"IF" it could be replaced simply, without breaking that ball joint open then that can only be a good thing. Most mullered idlers I see round here are so far gone, because nobody so far can split that ball joint. They can be a real shit.
But if the sleave can be swapped with the part in the car, it's not an issue. Sleave fails far more often than the ball joint on centre drag link.
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In order:
Having replaced both the idler and the draglink, I think you're making mountains out of molehills. The draglink to idler was certainly tight and took a few blows to separate, but it was far easier than a suspension joint that has carried a car's weight for 40 years.
I'd prefer to replace the sleeve considering the cost of the idler, but so far, no-one has suggested a supplier or price. And mine is good, having replaced it 2 years ago. I'm starting to wish I'd kept the old idler so I could play about with it, but scrap goes straight in the bin. Vices aren't made for pressing operations, and you can bend the leadscrew or even break the casting if too much pressure is required. But we all do it unless a press is available. Mine has easily paid for itself both in money for this sort of job, and in making the this would be done by now if only I had a press jobs easy.
Ball joint boots are readily available, but you have to break free from your dealer. And you have to know what size you want, but that's hardly rocket science. I didn't pay £200 for the draglink either.
You're probably right about the order in which the parts fail, but mine was the draglink joint; it was rattling about in its housing.
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I note that the insert is available from Europe, might be worth asking the question of our tame GSF man?
I would expect these to be easy enough to fit, smack the old insert out, get the new insert in the freezer then bung the old arm in the over at circa 200 degC.
Bring the two together and they should fit with little persuasion. :y
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In order:
Having replaced both the idler and the draglink, I think you're making mountains out of molehills. The draglink to idler was certainly tight and took a few blows to separate, but it was far easier than a suspension joint that has carried a car's weight for 40 years.
I'd prefer to replace the sleeve considering the cost of the idler, but so far, no-one has suggested a supplier or price. And mine is good, having replaced it 2 years ago. I'm starting to wish I'd kept the old idler so I could play about with it, but scrap goes straight in the bin. Vices aren't made for pressing operations, and you can bend the leadscrew or even break the casting if too much pressure is required. But we all do it unless a press is available. Mine has easily paid for itself both in money for this sort of job, and in making the this would be done by now if only I had a press jobs easy.
Ball joint boots are readily available, but you have to break free from your dealer. And you have to know what size you want, but that's hardly rocket science. I didn't pay £200 for the draglink either.
You're probably right about the order in which the parts fail, but mine was the draglink joint; it was rattling about in its housing.
Trust me that boot is not available anywhere. And is Not a normal size. Far more shallow. ;)
Also bear in mind imo we need to allow for all levels of experience on here when it comes to guides and recommended procedures. Obviously you won't need a guide and an easiest possible course of action. Simply there no point risking further damage, IF a simpler but yet to be found way exists.
My vice easily coped. No press required for Joe Bloggs to dismantle. So it might be safe to assume it would cope with reassembley. Not everyone has a press. (Although I do ;) )
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But let's not get too far ahead of ourselves we don't know we can get the part yet. :)