Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: horsecow on 26 November 2015, 08:42:04
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Hi guys, not been on here for a while now but looking some advice. I've been offered a 3.2 auto elite at little money. The problem is that it's not running due to the fan belt breaking and snagging the timing belt, or so I'm told! The bodywork is in excellent condition as is the jnterior. I currently have a 2.6 cd, the bodywork is getting a little rough but the engine is going perfect.
2 questions then
What are my chances of resurrecting the 3.2 engine, what kind of engine damage will have been done?
If I can't resurrect the 3.2 engine is it a massive job to drop my 2.6 in?
Thanks in advance guys
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Never done it myself, but many an OOFer has dropped an engine in with very little fuss. There'll be plenty on here who would be able to help.
What may in fact be a possible is for you to use the 3.2 bottom end, and basically replace the heads and so on (whatever/if anything is damaged) from the 2.6 and make a 'mongrel' with your 2.6 and 3.2
Not 100% where you stand fitting 2.6 heads on a 3.2, I think you can, though, it's the block which is the major difference. I'm a 2.5 man, as you see, so no expert on the later engines. :)
Certainly if you've a possibly scrap 3.2 and a whole spare 2.6, you're 'sitting pretty' and could have one complete running car very soon.
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Damage is normally limited to bent valves and cracked guides - requiring replacement heads.
You would need a pair of heads from a breakers, head gaskets, stem seals (silly not to change them when it is already in bits) head bolts, manifold gaskets (at least the drivers side one) various O rings etc. cambelt kit, water pump aux belt.
The 2.6 should be a straight swap but is it due for cambelt, water pump etc? this could tip you decision towards refurbing the 3.2.
Dont think you can use 2.6 heads on a 3.2.
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2.6 heads will fit onto a 3.2, they require a little bit of porting on the inlet manifold side and will raise the compression a bit (not an issue as the 2.6 and 3.2 are lower compression than the 2.5/3.0 to reduce NOx without EGR). Needs the use of 3.2 head gaskets.
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So it's not out of the question then, that's good! I'd ideally like to fix the 3.2 and flog my own as the money for my own should more than cover the costs for buying and repairing the 3.2, that's all depending on the damage caused obviously but I'm seriously thinking about going for it. Not too sure about the automatic though, I've only driven an auto omega once!
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Personally I fail to see how a broken fan belt can snag a timing belt. You may have a nice cheap motor that is easy to resolve (ie no need to change/repair engine)
Maybe it overheated and cooked the HG in which case the repair is fairly straight-forward.
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Ahhh, you could open a whole new thread regarding auto v manual
For me, I personally love them, and feel along with manual chokes, manual advancing and retarding of the ignition, non-servo brakes, etc am surprised that autos aren't consigned to history for the most part; or at least that the vast majority of cars aren't auto, especially given the abilities now with dual clutch and dsg, tiptronic, paddleshift etc... that 75%+ of new car's dont feature some kind of 'power assisted/automatic' gearchanging element. In fact, 75% of new cars sold are still manual. Making autos feel still a little 'special' - for me.
However, of course the purist element (and rightly so) still wants it, also car makers and buyers do, because it's cheaper.
I'm voting manual - in an Omega, because that's what the car's designed for - going in a straight line, with as little fuss and aggro for the driver as possible. That means, for me, sitting at a constant speed, my feet off the pedals, heated backside, climate controlled air. I see a roundabout ahead, I click the cruise off with the smallest move of my finger, and only gently apply the nicely weighted brake when required. Nice and relaxed, no fuss, Margarita Taylor on Classic FM, thank you very much. Ahhh.... :y
If you feel you can't be doing with the loss of the left pedal, then a conversion is very, very possible, and (apparently) easy enough. Again, you've got the bits, and the choice :y
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Also Mr Guffer makes a fine point - theres a great big panel covering the timing gear for exactly the reason - to avoid damage. SO your timing in theory should be fine. No idea what could be lurking in that engine, but whatever repair should be straighforward enough :y
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Sounds like it could be worth a punt! :y
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Personally I fail to see how a broken fan belt can snag a timing belt. You may have a nice cheap motor that is easy to resolve (ie no need to change/repair engine)
Maybe it overheated and cooked the HG in which case the repair is fairly straight-forward.
If the tensioner fails, it can seize, the resulting friction doesn't take long to melt the pulley and soften the aux belt... When, not if, the aux belt lets go, all bets are off... As the tail whips round, if the debris fractures the timing cover, it doesn't take much to snag in the timing gear causing the cambelt to either jump or snap... Suspect all the damage will be between the cambelt tensioner and cam 3 :-\
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So worst case scenario then is that I end up with one good car and one scrapper. It doesn't seem like I'm going to be out a fortune in parts but I guess I'll know better once I get it opened up and ill still get scrap value for my own so it's not going to cost me a lot either way. Will keep u posted once I go have a proper look
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Personally I fail to see how a broken fan belt can snag a timing belt. You may have a nice cheap motor that is easy to resolve (ie no need to change/repair engine)
Maybe it overheated and cooked the HG in which case the repair is fairly straight-forward.
Seen it happen a few times :y
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Personally I fail to see how a broken fan belt can snag a timing belt. You may have a nice cheap motor that is easy to resolve (ie no need to change/repair engine)
Maybe it overheated and cooked the HG in which case the repair is fairly straight-forward.
Seen it happen a few times :y
Fair one :y
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The belt gets shredded into lengths, these drop behind the crank aux pulley and onto the cam belt crank sprocket..........belt jumps and engine stops. :y
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anybody made a guard to prevent this happening?
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I'd say there'd be 'no point'... that's no point in inverted commas, as in theory, this shouldn't happen within the 40k/4 years service interval for the belt/kit. Logically, if anyone cares enough about their car to fabricate a guard to prevent such a failure, they probably care enough to actually change the belt/pulleys when they're due. If you do this, then (in theory) no such failure will ever occur. There have of course been cases of failures before the 40k limit (not sure if same can be said for <4 years, too, though?) A guard is a fair idea, though. :)
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anybody made a guard to prevent this happening?
Pretty much impossible as the cam cover already gets pretty close to the pulley
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Is there a specified time to change an auxillary belt or should it always be done with a cam belt change.
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Is there a specified time to change an auxiliary belt or should it always be done with a cam belt change.
Not really, as it's easily examined for damage/wear, and losing it rarely causes further problems. Plus most serpentine belts problems are caused by the tensioner bearings failing, rather than the belt.
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£27 ish main dealer, and a bit cheaper if you shop around for equally good quality. Plenty of choices. As said, easy enough to check, and easy to pop off and flex to examine for signs of cracking.
Small 'beware' tip - mine was getting changed as a matter of course anyway, given its age, but I examined the old one as you do and there was some very small cracking / crazing on close inspection, plus one single very fine, but clearly split right along its width, going about half way through :y. So I'd advise anyone to have good look along the entire length of the aux belt, as mind looked 'fine' apart from one very thin, easily missed split which could have been a bit catastrophic, had it failed. :)
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I had a look in that area today and it is difficult to see how any bits of the auxilary belt can get to the cam belt unless the cover was penetrated.
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Okay guys bit if an update. Just had a good look at the motor. Interior is spotless. Exterior is in v.g.c 95% rust free and you have to look very hard to find the few spots. Engine wise the fan belt is shredded and there is a small scrape on the top drivers side of the timing belt cover. Doesn't look very deep but it has gone through the cover. Is it possible it may have just jumped the timing and if so what is the likely damage?? Engine bay and engine itself looks in v.g.c also so I went ahead and bought it. Haven't got it home yet bug can't wait to get it in the shed and start stripping!
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sounds good .A nice project for the winter :y
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Okay guys bit if an update. Just had a good look at the motor. Interior is spotless. Exterior is in v.g.c 95% rust free and you have to look very hard to find the few spots. Engine wise the fan belt is shredded and there is a small scrape on the top drivers side of the timing belt cover. Doesn't look very deep but it has gone through the cover. Is it possible it may have just jumped the timing and if so what is the likely damage?? Engine bay and engine itself looks in v.g.c also so I went ahead and bought it. Haven't got it home yet bug can't wait to get it in the shed and start stripping!
There is a chance that the timing has slipped enough to stop it running but not enough to get piston valve contact,worth a careful check before you start ripping heads of.
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That's what I'm hoping HenryD. Will get a decent look once I get it home but I won't get time to collect it until the 12th. At £350 though I think it's a steal. I am aware of the saying "if it seems too good to be true it generally is". Fingers crossed anyway!!!!
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Aux belt changed at correct intervals should eliminate the problem.
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Got the motor home before Xmas but with work and moving house have not yet had a chance to operate on it ye. Went down this evening to the pedal trick and all I'm getting is continuous flashing light. This means no fault codes but am I right in thinking this is a good sign as to the condition of the engine?? Surely if the timing is off or any damage from the broken aux belt there would be a fault code coming up?
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Got the motor home before Xmas but with work and moving house have not yet had a chance to operate on it ye. Went down this evening to the pedal trick and all I'm getting is continuous flashing light. This means no fault codes but am I right in thinking this is a good sign as to the condition of the engine?? Surely if the timing is off or any damage from the broken aux belt there would be a fault code coming up?
Is that not an imobiliser issue ? . . . has key been messed with, taken apart or dropped ?
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Got the motor home before Xmas but with work and moving house have not yet had a chance to operate on it ye. Went down this evening to the pedal trick and all I'm getting is continuous flashing light. This means no fault codes but am I right in thinking this is a good sign as to the condition of the engine?? Surely if the timing is off or any damage from the broken aux belt there would be a fault code coming up?
Is that not an imobiliser issue ? . . . has key been messed with, taken apart or dropped ?
Just checked the maintenance guide again and it says constant flashing indicates no fault codes
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Surely if the timing is off or any damage from the broken aux belt there would be a fault code coming up?
Nope, not necessarily.
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Surely if the timing is off or any damage from the broken aux belt there would be a fault code coming up?
Nope, not necessarily.
Bugger that then, well fingers crossed anyway!
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Surely if the timing is off or any damage from the broken aux belt there would be a fault code coming up?
Nope, not necessarily.
Bugger that then, well fingers crossed anyway!
Only one way to find out if timing belt has slipped... ...go on, get stuck in and take the cover off :D
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Got the motor home before Xmas but with work and moving house have not yet had a chance to operate on it ye. Went down this evening to the pedal trick and all I'm getting is continuous flashing light. This means no fault codes but am I right in thinking this is a good sign as to the condition of the engine?? Surely if the timing is off or any damage from the broken aux belt there would be a fault code coming up?
Is that not an imobiliser issue ? . . . has key been messed with, taken apart or dropped ?
Just checked the maintenance guide again and it says constant flashing indicates no fault codes
Seemed to remember we had a constant flashing spanner light problem recently, with Swordfish I think it was & that WAS an imobiliser issue. Maybe I have got the wrong light ::) ::)
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Needs a new timing belt kit fitted anyway, just can't get tome to get at it! Hope to get started this weekend if all goes to plan.
Just out of curiosity are there any recommended upgrades/mods that I should be looking into once I do get in there. I intend to give everything a good going over once I do start as I'm in no panic to get it on the road at present but all suggestions/ideas are welcome
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Mysterious. Only a small scrape upper cam cover driver's side - I've had worse than that, quite a long gash - but my engine still ran. Does it turn over on the starter? All will become clear when you get that cam cover off. Good luck!
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I haven't tried to turn it over yet Terry, I didn't want to risk further damage, thought it best to do some investigating 1st, hopefully I'll get a look after it this weekend.
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Remove the top two cam cover bolts and urn the engine by hand (well ratchet and socket on crank pulley) to see if you get any serious resistance. Ease the cam cover top back and you will be able to see the timing marks.
No need to actually remove anything so pretty quick to do.
But if the timing belt has jumped there will be bent valves, usually at least 18 of them
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Hi sent you a pm might have a few v6 bits to help sort out you new purchase. Give us a shout anytime mobile in pm. Eric seskinore
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Finally got to work on the motor today. Looks like the aux belt tensioner gave up (was in many pieces on top of the splash guard). The aux belt went to ribbons and managed to snag itself around the crank pulley. Crank pulley was still able to turn but if it had went much longer it would have gotten severely snagged up, there is evidence on the timing belt that it was starting to slip but i dobt think it slipped too much. Cleared all debris away freed up the aux belt from around the crank pulley and turned it by hand. Thankfully it turns freely with no horrible noises so I'm pretty certain there is no major damage done.
On another note when I removed the coil packs all 6 spark plugs were completely flooded in oil, checked the cam cover gaskets and they seemed to be in pretty good shape if not perfect. Does this mean that the head gasket is gone then? Haven't gotten around to taking the heads off yet but I think I may as well now when I'm in this far and replace the gasket anyway
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Head gasket failure cannot fill the plug wells with oil! Lifting the heads is such a pain that I would need to be certain that it's necessary. And leaking cam covers are only a little extra work while you have the plenum moved to do the cam belt.
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Yes why pull the heads off if the crank turns easily without any nasties? :-\
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Wooo boy hold up here a minute ;)
This is what I would do , but is only my opinion
Ok so aux belt has been untangled & removed :y
You say engine turns by hand (well spanner/socket ) without any horrible noises etc. :y
So . . . you have removed coil packs . . mop up all the oil in the wells the best you can
then , if you have not done so, remove the plugs & rotate the engine gently the correct way . . . if there is any firm
resistance stop . . but chances are it will be ok
If engine has turned over twice (720 degrees ) it should be ok . Cannot see you have to remove the heads at this stage :-\
Compression test on each pot should tell if there has been any damage at all ;)
I would get a new cambelt kit & water pump, new Aux belt & tensioner & new cam cover gaskets. Not forgetting a breather clean . Get it all fitted & double checked by one of the Oof mechanics ( unless you can do it yourself of course)
Of course other more experienced oof members may have better suggestions :-\
HTH :y
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That's exactly what I was planning to do Essex Big Al but I thought that the oil in the plugs had to be coming from the head gasket as the cam cover gaskets looked fine. Is it only the cam cover gaskets that leak oil into the plugs?
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That's exactly what I was planning to do Essex Big Al but I thought that the oil in the plugs had to be coming from the head gasket as the cam cover gaskets looked fine. Is it only the cam cover gaskets that leak oil into the plugs?
Yep ! :y whats the mileage on the ol' girl by the way ?
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Cam cover gaskets can look fine ,but like like a sieve. Personally, I would mop up the oil from the plug wells, rotate the engine by hand a couple of times to check there is no serious issue, and then see if the car starts and runs ok.
If it does, then clean breathers, renew camcover gaskets, cambelt kit, aux. belt and tensioner, oil and filters - and your good to go.
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That's exactly what I was planning to do Essex Big Al but I thought that the oil in the plugs had to be coming from the head gasket as the cam cover gaskets looked fine. Is it only the cam cover gaskets that leak oil into the plugs?
Yep ! :y whats the mileage on the ol' girl by the way ?
116000 give or take a few
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That's exactly what I was planning to do Essex Big Al but I thought that the oil in the plugs had to be coming from the head gasket as the cam cover gaskets looked fine. Is it only the cam cover gaskets that leak oil into the plugs?
Yep ! :y whats the mileage on the ol' girl by the way ?
116000 give or take a few
Cam cover gaskets life is around the 100k mark as I understand it . . . less of course if breather maintenance is ignored
so at the end of their life anyway I would say :-\
Also on the point of running up the engine . . I would advise both timing check & compression test first before doing so . .
but again only my opinion ;)
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The cam covers might be out of shape, which if that's the case even new gaskets won't make any difference. ;)
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The cam covers might be out of shape, which if that's the case even new gaskets won't make any difference. ;)
If they were out of shape wouldn't there be oil around the outsides as well? I had a good look at them as I took them off and once they were off. They were fitting pretty snugly and as I said the gaskets looked to be in good shape but I'm going to get a new set anyway, hopefully that will cure that problem
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Rare for the covers to be that out of shape and yes, it would most likely leak outwards too.
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It sounds like you have a bargain there. We all wonder whether the cam belt is intact. As Mark suggested, remove the top cam belt cover bolts so that you can see the belt, then turn the engine with a spanner on the bottom pulley; if the belt moves, all should be well.
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It sounds like you have a bargain there. We all wonder whether the cam belt is intact. As Mark suggested, remove the top cam belt cover bolts so that you can see the belt, then turn the engine with a spanner on the bottom pulley; if the belt moves, all should be well.
Cam belt is intact and all is moving freely when turned with a socket. Doesn't seem to have done any major damage. Was very lucky though the fan belt managed to snag on the crank pulley and had built up a layer on it over the teeth. Can see on the cambelt where it started slipping so timing may be off a fraction but I'm putting a new cambelt on anyway so can rectify the timing there and as I say doesn't t seem to be any major damage thankfully
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The cam covers might be out of shape, which if that's the case even new gaskets won't make any difference. ;)
If they were out of shape wouldn't there be oil around the outsides as well? I had a good look at them as I took them off and once they were off. They were fitting pretty snugly and as I said the gaskets looked to be in good shape but I'm going to get a new set anyway, hopefully that will cure that problem
Yes that's a fair point. :y
You can check the covers with a straight edge down the long side as they tend to go slightly oval shaped or spread/bow outwards, either because they've been over tightened or possibly just with time/use. ;) People here describe them as 'warped' which I don't think is a good description really, as it brings to mind a twisted plank of wood. ::)
Bear in mind though just because they seem to fit OK dosn't mean they won't leak like a bastard even with new gaskets. :)
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Thanks Sir Tigger after your previous post I had it in mind to check them with straight edge anyway.
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Been getting prices for the parts I need this week. Are contitech timing belts any good? Is it possible to get a fan belt tensioner with a steel pulley or are they all plastic? It was the plastic pulley that gave up on the last one! Water pump and rocker gaskets been offered genuine gm or FAI, has anyone used FAI??
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Been getting prices for the parts I need this week. Are contitech timing belts any good? Is it possible to get a fan belt tensioner with a steel pulley or are they all plastic? It was the plastic pulley that gave up on the last one! Water pump and rocker gaskets been offered genuine gm or FAI, has anyone used FAI??
Contitech kits are good
Not that I know of... Wasn't the pulley, it was the bearing anyway
Water pump... Not sure on latest advice
Rocker (or cam) cover... Best advice is genuine only
In that order ;) :y
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Been getting prices for the parts I need this week. Are contitech timing belts any good? Is it possible to get a fan belt tensioner with a steel pulley or are they all plastic? It was the plastic pulley that gave up on the last one! Water pump and rocker gaskets been offered genuine gm or FAI, has anyone used FAI??
Contitech kits are good
Not that I know of... Wasn't the pulley, it was the bearing anyway
Water pump... Not sure on latest advice
Rocker (or cam) cover... Best advice is genuine only
In that order ;) :y
What LD Said :y
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Been getting prices for the parts I need this week. Are contitech timing belts any good? Is it possible to get a fan belt tensioner with a steel pulley or are they all plastic? It was the plastic pulley that gave up on the last one! Water pump and rocker gaskets been offered genuine gm or FAI, has anyone used FAI??
Contitech kits are good
Not that I know of... Wasn't the pulley, it was the bearing anyway
Water pump... Not sure on latest advice
Rocker (or cam) cover... Best advice is genuine only
In that order ;) :y
What LD Said :y
I run 6 Omegas, and am mean with the pennies. I bought an Omega 2.6 in May on e-bay. I found a cam belt kit on Amazon (Dacrow?) for £48, took a chance; it fitted all right, bearings were marked SKF France, it's still running OK.
In the car boot I found a cam cover gasket set from Leader LSC with an invoice for £15.75; gasket on LHS was leaking, oil in plug holes, and the small breather hole was completely blocked. I cleared the breather hole, and fitted the supplied cam cover gasket on the RHS. I argue that if the breathers are clear the cam cover gaskets stop air leaking in, not oil blowing out. No leaks so far.
I appreciate that Vx parts are the best but they can be very dear. Some have got cheaper over the years, brake pad wear sensors and heater bypass valves for example.
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I appreciate that Vx parts are the best but they can be very dear. Some have got cheaper over the years, brake pad wear sensors and heater bypass valves for example.
I believe dbug has been quite successful with a particular pattern gasket, although possibly still too early to tell.
Due to the high costs of genuine cam cover gaskets, many have tried all sorts of makes, and almost universally, the pattern ones fail prematurely, and the genuine ones, when correctly fitted, are good for several years.
Crankcase pressures are all over the place, esp once the engine has a little wear on it, so keeping breathers clear is essential, and becomes moreso with age.
Hope that clarifies :y
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I think because the fitting of Vx gaskets is so universal on OOF, that there's very little evidence of anyone fitting pattern gaskets in recent times. The instant any newbie asks 'seen these gaskets for £15, these sound ok?' they are met with pleas to fit GM and only GM.
I'm not saying this is wrong or bad advice, certainly not. But Terry, if you could keep us updated as to your progress with this gasket, as it's a safe bet that at some point in the (near) future GM gaskets will be NLA, and in a few years after that the original New Old Stock stuff will be old, dry, brittle rubber. We only find out anything with experimentation, and the logic that with clear & maintained breathers you're willing to give the free gasket a go, is sound.
I myself have Vx gaskets, (done not 8k ago, breathers checked t'other week) so I'm not knocking their use, but keep us informed on your progress. :y
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Okay so I've got new cam belt kit fitted, new aux belt and tensioner, new coil packs and plugs and everything is back where it should be. On turning the key however she doesn't want to start. It's turning over fine but not catching! I've checked every thing again and I can't for the life of me see anything that's not where it should be. I swapped out the crank sensor for the one from my 2.6 which I know is good and it makes no difference. On doing the pedal trick all I'm getting is a continuous flashing spanner light. I know the fuel is getting though the only thing I haven't checked is whether there is a spark but with new coil packs and plugs I'm pretty sure they are okay.
Could it be an immobiliser/key problem. The key I have for the car is very worn and sticks sometimes in the ignition and the buttons don't look like they have worked for yrs. Would the enine turn over but not engage if it was the key/immobiliser and how do I rectify this?
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The continuous flashing spanner/EML light does usually mean that the immobiliser is working and stopping the engine from firing...
Take the key apart and take a look inside the horseshoe to see if the little chip is there... that would be first thing to do...
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Will do. Must add that the light only flashes continuous when I try to do the pedal trick.
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Ah now you see thats different to what you said....
If its flasshing with the pedal trick, then it could be trying to tell you whats wrong...
But it does sound like immobiliser, especially if its flashing whilst cranking the engine over...
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The chip is there alright but the buttons don't work at all even with a known good battery. Going to leave it in today to get repaired if possible and will have to price a new key :(
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When you say the button don't work.... is it the key doesn't light up....? or its not locking/unlocking the car....?
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When in press the buttons nothing happens at all even when I put in a known good battery.
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When in press the buttons nothing happens at all even when I put in a known good battery.
Ignore that for a minute as the buttons only operate the locking/alarm and have no impact on starting. If the immobiliser chip is in the key then you need to start with the basics and work through. IIRC there are 2 identical plugs that can be switched by accident... I want to sat cam sensor and something :-\
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When in press the buttons nothing happens at all even when I put in a known good battery.
Ignore that for a minute as the buttons only operate the locking/alarm and have no impact on starting. If the immobiliser chip is in the key then you need to start with the basics and work through. IIRC there are 2 identical plugs that can be switched by accident... I want to sat cam sensor and something :-\
Must look into that this evening when I get home. I've just bought 2 of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172210435796 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172210435796) they'll be needed to fix the key fob anyway and the fob on my 2.6 is on the way out as well so won't be wasted
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Ah now you see thats different to what you said....
If its flasshing with the pedal trick, then it could be trying to tell you whats wrong...
But it does sound like immobiliser, especially if its flashing whilst cranking the engine over...
Constant flashing when you do the pedal trick means there are no codes stored.
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If it's an immobiliser problem, it will fire and then stop. Also, the EML on the left hand side of the dash (NOT the emissions warning light) will flash.
The central locking function of the key is completely separate from the immobiliser so the operation or otherwise of the central locking from the key fob won't prove anything.
Canister purge valve, coolant temperature sensor and rear multiram valve are connectors than can easily be swapped accidentally.
Another popular one is pinching the 1,3,5 bank knock sensor wire under the aux. belt tensioner bracket. This can short out the 5v supply to all the engine sensors and would certainly stop it dead.
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Okay guys been out this evening and checked all connections to ensure they are connected the same as the 2.6. Everything is connected as it should be and I even got the wife to try starting the car while I moved the connections around in case there was a loose wire but still no joy. Took a careful look at the knock sensor on 135 bank and it's also fine. Engine is turning over but failing to catch. Any other ideas guys?
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Okay guys been out this evening and checked all connections to ensure they are connected the same as the 2.6. Everything is connected as it should be and I even got the wife to try starting the car while I moved the connections around in case there was a loose wire but still no joy. Took a careful look at the knock sensor on 135 bank and it's also fine. Engine is turning over but failing to catch. Any other ideas guys?
Sorry to say it... Back to basics. Fuel, spark, etc... Check and recheck everything
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Update!!
Haven't had time to look at the motor for past few weeks so left it with local mechanic today who did a pressure test and tells me there is no compression which likely means bent valves and I now need new heads. I read somewhere that 3.0 heads will work on 3.2 but which is best and what are the advantages/disadvantages. Car was bought as a project anyway so it's just turning into a bigger project than what I had hoped. Also is there anything else I need to do once I'm in that far??
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I think the advice you'll get will be for the time and money an entire engine swap will most likely be your best option - unless you actually want to start replacing bits of the engine extensively and do some 'modding' with lighter flywheels, later manifolds, remapping etc that's probably going to be the easiest option, destructive and over-the-top though it sounds. :-\
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AFAIK, the heads are the same between 3.2 and late 3.0s, meaning that there are no advantages to using a different head and potential pitfalls in that they will be older, higher mileage and may not have the mountings for the DBW coil packs.
I agree. Get a known good engine or possibly a pair of good heads and refurb them. If the latter, make sure the bottom end is OK first, as a cam belt failure can result in the edges of the pistons getting crimped, trapping the rings in their grooves.