Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: 05omegav6 on 20 January 2016, 17:30:30
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As above, 1.4, requires head gasket etc, Motd until July, 62k...
Not sure a) what to offer, and b) what cost/effort involved... I know Terry has recently done one... Would consider it with a view to selling it on, or if anyone is interested I can ask questions etc :y
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easy job to do just depends on condition and year I suppose :y
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Nobody want's 'em. If the later ones (about 2003 onwards), the interior drops off with a remarkable frequency, as bad as Astra-H's.
If used for any distance with failed HG, might be head damage. Otherwise, straightforward to fix, but replace waterpump and stat as well. Sadly, I melted all my K series specific tools.
Doubt there is money in it, TBH. And the MG Rover forum is full of chavs wanting to fit bodykits and stereos, even if the car is crying for a service.
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It's a silver '04 ::)
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Only really worth bothering with if the car is free(being paid to take it away would be better) in otherwise reasonable condition and you have a use for it when it's fixed.
Otherwise, it's just not worth the time, effort and money.
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It's a silver '04 ::)
Yeah, right. Send it to Andy B for food containers.
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It's a silver '04 ::)
Yeah, right. Send it to Andy B for food containers.
I'll give him the good news tomorrow :D
The only reason I would take it on would be as a commuter car... But only if I got shot of one of the Omegas, and as that isn't going to happen :-X
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As above, 1.4, requires head gasket etc, Motd until July, 62k...
Not sure a) what to offer, and b) what cost/effort involved... I know Terry has recently done one... Would consider it with a view to selling it on, or if anyone is interested I can ask questions etc :y
A 14 year old rover 25 with HG failure? Wow, you're coming up in the world ;D
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Just a word of advice if you do...make sure you get the proper updated H/G with metal locating dowels, as these are the major contributing for failure because many head sets still use plastic dowels that go brittle with the expansion and cause the head to dislodge in effect.
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TuBy will have it... He loved his little Rover :-X ;D
In all seriousness... I picked up a 25 free and barely covered my costs when I put it all back together and sold it ::)
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I did love my little Rover, and the 3 before that. But 1.4 is better on paper than reality. And with the MG bodykit, everyone is going to want to play, but its only a 9s car.
Plus the 2nd generation 25 is built like, well, and Astra-H ;D
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TuBy will have it... He loved his little Rover :-X ;D
In all seriousness... I picked up a 25 free and barely covered my costs when I put it all back together and sold it ::)
That's not good at all, definitely only worth it as a keeper then.
How much for parts, assuming no cambelt (to minimise cost)?
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Incidentally, not using coolant, and not overheating... primary issue is no cabin heat.
Car is mostly used for short journeys.
For clarity, I haven't seen the car, and it belongs to a colleaguey who could really do without a)spending a fortune to fix it or b) replacing it.
Wonder if it's worth a pumt changing the thermostat :-\
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Only symptom on mine was black oily cheese in the expansion tank. It was fubar, though.
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Incidentally, not using coolant, and not overheating... primary issue is no cabin heat.
Car is mostly used for short journeys.
For clarity, I haven't seen the car, and it belongs to a colleaguey who could really do without a)spending a fortune to fix it or b) replacing it.
Wonder if it's worth a pumt changing the thermostat :-\
Late "k" engines have a remote thermostat fitted under the rad,its not unknown for the original position behind the water pump to have one fitted as well with fairly dire consequences,worth checking as it would be a cheap and easy fix(there should be a dummy stat in there with no guts in it).If its not pressurizing or overheating then it could even be the heater tap down on the bulkhead in the engine bay(if the latest ones still have it and I think they do) :y
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Incidentally, not using coolant, and not overheating... primary issue is no cabin heat.
Car is mostly used for short journeys.
For clarity, I haven't seen the car, and it belongs to a colleaguey who could really do without a)spending a fortune to fix it or b) replacing it.
Wonder if it's worth a pumt changing the thermostat :-\
Late "k" engines have a remote thermostat fitted under the rad,its not unknown for the original position behind the water pump to have one fitted as well with fairly dire consequences,worth checking as it would be a cheap and easy fix(there should be a dummy stat in there with no guts in it).If its not pressurizing or overheating then it could even be the heater tap down on the bulkhead in the engine bay(if the latest ones still have it and I think they do) :y
Heater was working following a decent run, 40+ miles, but has now given up again... There is also mention of rad weld type stuff being used ::)
What is this heater tap, and what does it do?
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Incidentally, not using coolant, and not overheating... primary issue is no cabin heat.
Car is mostly used for short journeys.
For clarity, I haven't seen the car, and it belongs to a colleaguey who could really do without a)spending a fortune to fix it or b) replacing it.
Wonder if it's worth a pumt changing the thermostat :-\
Late "k" engines have a remote thermostat fitted under the rad,its not unknown for the original position behind the water pump to have one fitted as well with fairly dire consequences,worth checking as it would be a cheap and easy fix(there should be a dummy stat in there with no guts in it).If its not pressurizing or overheating then it could even be the heater tap down on the bulkhead in the engine bay(if the latest ones still have it and I think they do) :y
Heater was working following a decent run, 40+ miles, but has now given up again... There is also mention of rad weld type stuff being used ::)
What is this heater tap, and what does it do?
Most modern cars have heat flowing through the matrix all the time,from memory the 25 has a heater tap similar to what was fitted to a mini years ago whereby it stops the flow of water through the matrix,if Radweld has been added at any time the matrix will probaly be clogged up,a back flush will help that a lot(my 75 had many cans of fix added to it before I got involved and some still flushes out even now almost 2 years later)
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Ok, that makes sense... So as a course of action, check that valve and a compression test... Ifboth ok, then coolant flush and go from there...
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Might be of help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UXvQA-wOTM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UXvQA-wOTM)
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Ok, that makes sense... So as a course of action, check that valve and a compression test... Ifboth ok, then coolant flush and go from there...
If the coolant is clean with no oil deposits and no pressure when run up its unlikely to be the HG,K series motors normally let you know in short order if they are Fubar ::)
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K symptoms are fairly classic - fluids mixing and/or cylinder pressure issues.
Be aware that *any* cooling glitch on this engine normally kills the gasket, as there is little tolerance to rapidly changing coolant temps, and the coolant capacity is tiny (to meet the criteria of reaching temp in 90s).
*IF* you have to change it, you need:
HG
Bolts (Can't reuse, despite the measurements in the official docs)
Inlet gasket
Exhaust gasket and I think there is a manifold to cat gasket from memory.
You *may* get away with reusing the cam cover "sheet"/gasket
Note, if buying bits, will be later K series.
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Another helpful video to help make up your mind.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-i-op1aceUg
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Another helpful video to help make up your mind.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-i-op1aceUg
Fanks :D
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What's the labour time likely to be :-\ is two days diy realistic?
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What's the labour time likely to be :-\ is two days diy realistic?
Easily doable in a day but if you take the head off you really should have it checked, pressure tested and skimmed if needed.
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What's the labour time likely to be :-\ is two days diy realistic?
I can have the head off a front wheel drive K series in less than an hour,going back together takes longer as liner heights etc need careful checking,the multi layer steel gasket isn't the life saver everyone thought it was and the latest payen BW750 blue elastomer gasket is much more tolerant of low liner height, if the head has got hot its also worth using a head saver shim which is glued to the head with weldseal to stop the gasket wearing rings in the now softer head material.
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Al, if your doing this as as earner forget it,if you need a cheap nippy shitter for work it makes more sense as they aren't a bad drive :y
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Al, if your doing this as as earner forget it,if you need a cheap nippy shitter for work it makes more sense as they aren't a bad drive :y
Considering it as a paid repair job for current owner rather that trying to turn the car round for a profit... Been quoted £650 which sounds like alot :-\
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Al, if your doing this as as earner forget it,if you need a cheap nippy shitter for work it makes more sense as they aren't a bad drive :y
Considering it as a paid repair job for current owner rather that trying to turn the car round for a profit... Been quoted £650 which sounds like alot :-\
Sounds about right for a garage to me :-\ As long as that includes head testing etc
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No mention of that... Typical cost :-\
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What's the labour time likely to be :-\ is two days diy realistic?
I can have the head off a front wheel drive K series in less than an hour,going back together takes longer as liner heights etc need careful checking,the multi layer steel gasket isn't the life saver everyone thought it was and the latest payen BW750 blue elastomer gasket is much more tolerant of low liner height, if the head has got hot its also worth using a head saver shim which is glued to the head with weldseal to stop the gasket wearing rings in the now softer head material.
Its pretty good if done properly, but many garages just use it as is, not with the ladder and different bolts.
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So should the oil rail be replaced automatically too :-\
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What's the labour time likely to be :-\ is two days diy realistic?
I can have the head off a front wheel drive K series in less than an hour,going back together takes longer as liner heights etc need careful checking,the multi layer steel gasket isn't the life saver everyone thought it was and the latest payen BW750 blue elastomer gasket is much more tolerant of low liner height, if the head has got hot its also worth using a head saver shim which is glued to the head with weldseal to stop the gasket wearing rings in the now softer head material.
Its pretty good if done properly, but many garages just use it as is, not with the ladder and different bolts.
Its low liner heights that the MLS really doesn't like,I used one on my turbo 75 with the ladder and bolts but it wasn't having it( liners were quite low) ,Bw750 and head saver shim and two years on still good :y
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What's the labour time likely to be :-\ is two days diy realistic?
I can have the head off a front wheel drive K series in less than an hour,going back together takes longer as liner heights etc need careful checking,the multi layer steel gasket isn't the life saver everyone thought it was and the latest payen BW750 blue elastomer gasket is much more tolerant of low liner height, if the head has got hot its also worth using a head saver shim which is glued to the head with weldseal to stop the gasket wearing rings in the now softer head material.
Its pretty good if done properly, but many garages just use it as is, not with the ladder and different bolts.
Its low liner heights that the MLS really doesn't like,I used one on my turbo 75 with the ladder and bolts but it wasn't having it( liners were quite low) ,Bw750 and head saver shim and two years on still good :y
Did you bother with the oil rail?
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What's the labour time likely to be :-\ is two days diy realistic?
I can have the head off a front wheel drive K series in less than an hour,going back together takes longer as liner heights etc need careful checking,the multi layer steel gasket isn't the life saver everyone thought it was and the latest payen BW750 blue elastomer gasket is much more tolerant of low liner height, if the head has got hot its also worth using a head saver shim which is glued to the head with weldseal to stop the gasket wearing rings in the now softer head material.
Its pretty good if done properly, but many garages just use it as is, not with the ladder and different bolts.
Its low liner heights that the MLS really doesn't like,I used one on my turbo 75 with the ladder and bolts but it wasn't having it( liners were quite low) ,Bw750 and head saver shim and two years on still good :y
Did you bother with the oil rail?
you mean the ladder at the bottom that the bolts screw into,if so yes
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Ok, so presumably thats a sump off job to remove?
Will get a Haynes before doing, if I agree to do it, so apologies for all the questions... Just want to be sure that I get a definitive list of parts and therefore cost before committing ;)
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Ok, so presumably thats a sump off job to remove?
Will get a Haynes before doing, if I agree to do it, so apologies for all the questions... Just want to be sure that I get a definitive list of parts and therefore cost before committing ;)
Yep,easy though :y
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TBH, I wouldn't get involved. Too many potential pitfalls with it, especially as the symptoms don't point straight to HG IMHO.
As previously stated, the K Series normally makes it very clear that it has gone ;)
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Third party has apparently confirmed HG, but without seeing the car, I wouldn't like to say... Has had gunge in the header tank too.
Chap has been offered a Suzuki of some description for £500, and has been quoted £650 to fix the MG... If it can be fixed for £500 ish, then he can maje an informed decision :-\
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Third party has apparently confirmed HG, but without seeing the car, I wouldn't like to say... Has had gunge in the header tank too.
Chap has been offered a Suzuki of some description for £500, and has been quoted £650 to fix the MG... If it can be fixed for £500 ish, then he can maje an informed decision :-\
Your call... But beware that you could end up stripping the whole lot and finding it beyond repair.
I've never seen a k series HG that wasn't pressurising coolant or beyond starting through lack of compression :-\
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Good point, be one to do on his drive rather than mine...
Hopefully he will prefer to spend the money on another car... £500 buys alot of Omega :D
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It's a silver '04 ::)
Yeah, right. Send it to Andy B for food containers.
our cans are made from better steel than that ::) ::)
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It's a silver '04 ::)
Yeah, right. Send it to Andy B for food containers.
our cans are made from better steel than that ::) ::)
And the dents come free
Note to self....I hate that wine glass swirly thing...Get rid ;D ;D
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if and I mean if the only symptom is the heater not working then it could well be the saab valve broken (very common problem) located at the back of the engine basicley when it fails the coolant flows straight through and by passes the heater system
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Discussing options and the lottery thereof, he said he has been offered £150 for it... Told him to bite the blokes arm off ::)
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Discussing options and the lottery thereof, he said he has been offered £150 for it... Told him to bite the blokes arm off ::)
Good price,scrappers down here would give 30-40 for it at the moment :'(
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The Streetwise I changed the head gasket on last January is still running well and not losing coolant. It failed to start last week in the cold weather, I suspected battery, and cured it by replacing battery with a spare Omega battery I had on the bench. It was much too big, but had the right battery posts and just fitted on the tray using the end thread and modified clamp.
Nice car to drive, very light engine, alloy block, plastic inlet manifold. Daughter in law loves it, but it is too small to accommodate grandson's high tech baby seat, that has to go in Ben's Omega.