Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Lizzie Zoom on 28 January 2026, 17:26:49
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My Omega passed it's MOT again today - it has never failed - , but with advisories including requiring new rear shocks, and the need to clean / protect "brake pipes corroded, covered in grease or other material" . So nothing too serious. New shocks will be fitted shortly, and in the Summer I will get underneath the car to clean down / protect spray the pipes.
Happy!! :D :D :D
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:y :y :y
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Good luck finding a pair of rear shocks for an Omega Elite.
If you find a source ,please let me know where from, and how much. :y
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Nice one. :y
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Nice one, always a relief. :y
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My Omega passed it's MOT again today - it has never failed - , but with advisories including requiring new rear shocks, and the need to clean / protect "brake pipes corroded, covered in grease or other material" . So nothing too serious. New shocks will be fitted shortly, and in the Summer I will get underneath the car to clean down / protect spray the pipes.
Happy!! :D :D :D
Will you fit. ::)
Another pass is always welcome especially when you don't have to open your wallet. :)
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That's great Lizzie, always good to have a pass with nothing too serious to rectify another year of bargain motoring.
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Must be the start of the year, and quotas reset, as even mine passed easily this time. In fact the tester was unusually complimentary about the condition underneath....
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Good luck finding a pair of rear shocks for an Omega Elite.
If you find a source ,please let me know where from, and how much. :y
My VX dealer states they can do the work, and have quoted £237.60, all in, to do it. I will be accepting that next week as I cant be bothered now , too aged, to do that type of work, let alone finding the right shocks!
With them looking after my old beast as they have on and off for years, with them always treating her with great respect- they do not have another Omega on their books - and me knowing their General Manager, Service Manager and Parts Manager for a long time, why not! My MOT cost just £35 because of these contacts. ;D ;D :)
:D ;)
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Congratulation on the pass :)
I imagine a dealer or anyone fitting shocks will just fit regular shocks ,not self levelling . is this YOUR case ?
IIRC, swapping from S.L set up to standard requires springs too :-\
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Yes, LZ, check what they are fitting, and also check what yours has - the self levelling ones have an obvious air bladder on the bottom, and obviously air lines at the top (in wheel arch, not at the top in the boot).
Elites all came with them as standard, but may have been removed by a previous owner due to cost (and latterly, availability).
As DtB suggests, springs made for Omega self levelling shocks are not a good choice for non self levelling springs. I'd actually say it's dangerous under certain driving conditions.
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Good luck finding a pair of rear shocks for an Omega Elite.
If you find a source ,please let me know where from, and how much. :y
My VX dealer states they can do the work, and have quoted £237.60, all in, to do it. I will be accepting that next week as I cant be bothered now , too aged, to do that type of work, let alone finding the right shocks!
With them looking after my old beast as they have on and off for years, with them always treating her with great respect- they do not have another Omega on their books - and me knowing their General Manager, Service Manager and Parts Manager for a long time, why not! My MOT cost just £35 because of these contacts. ;D ;D :)
:D ;)
To reinforce what TB has said.
The price you have been quoted is probably a similar amount they would have to pay for each self levelling damper - if they could actually be found.
So they will not be fitting like for like but using standard (2.6 spec) dampers.
This is fine. I have done the same when one of my S/L dampers burst its bladder.
Thing is, the rear springs must also be changed at the same time. S/L spec spings are far too soft to work in conjunction with non S/L dampers.
To leave the original springs on the car will imo leave the car in a potentially dangerous condition.
You may not notice just driving around town, and may well not have a press on driving style these days, but in an emergency situation the handling will be a lot worse, and unpredictable, which is dangerous.
Doc Gollum can provide a link for Kilen springs, which arent that expensive, and will do the job nicely
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Links readily available. But it's not the first time that Betty has been turned over by her VX dealer :-X
Doing the job correctly, means either the correct shocks or new shocks, springs and a couple of hours to remove the self levelling gubbins. Pulling the fuse is to totally half arse it.
Genuine non SL shocks are circa £100 each. Springs around £60. £237 at a main dealer isn't going to buy anything worth getting. :-X
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Good luck finding a pair of rear shocks for an Omega Elite.
If you find a source ,please let me know where from, and how much. :y
My VX dealer states they can do the work, and have quoted £237.60, all in, to do it. I will be accepting that next week as I cant be bothered now , too aged, to do that type of work, let alone finding the right shocks!
With them looking after my old beast as they have on and off for years, with them always treating her with great respect- they do not have another Omega on their books - and me knowing their General Manager, Service Manager and Parts Manager for a long time, why not! My MOT cost just £35 because of these contacts. ;D ;D :)
:D ;)
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Sounds like you've got a good deal Lizzie well done 👍
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Personally, Im not convinced.
Anyone who knew the ins and outs of Omegas at Vauxhall dealers, back in the day, is probably retired by now.
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I had a Monroe set of air shocks on my camaro.
Did a check - few options out there.
Google this - air ride shock absorber replacement for 2003 vauxhall omega elite
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Book time is probably an hour a side. That's got to be a minimum of £120 a side plus VAT
There's no way this side of the moon that that job is being done correctly.
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Book time is probably an hour a side. That's got to be a minimum of £120 a side plus VAT
There's no way this side of the moon that that job is being done correctly.
I’m using a main Vauxhall dealer who knows my car, and I know their management team. Therefore. I know I have redress if they get things wrong, and anyway on a car that is 23 years old and hardly does 3,000 miles in a year, I just want what is easy to do; that is a professionally outfit doing the work whilst I keep in the warm and dry that now I must do for age and health reasons :)
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Links readily available. But it's not the first time that Betty has been turned over by her VX dealer :-X
Doing the job correctly, means either the correct shocks or new shocks, springs and a couple of hours to remove the self levelling gubbins. Pulling the fuse is to totally half arse it.
Genuine non SL shocks are circa £100 each. Springs around £60. £237 at a main dealer isn't going to buy anything worth getting. :-X
Really?? !! :o :o
The only time I have had a problem with them because of a new genuine GM A/C compressor failing within two years of being fitted, the General Manager of the dealership arranged for a full reimbursement of all costs of fitting a replacement that is still working without issue.
Recently they also assisted me in sourcing an alternator that was exactly right for the Omega, after others were found not being suitable, even they they were rated as being correct for my car.
So I have NEVER been “turned over” by this Vx dealership, and in fact have received great, well priced, service by them. I am not one to be easily “turned over”, having taken others through the legal process to successfully obtain what I am due when things have gone wrong. I also have always spread my business across other suppliers and dealers to get the best deals.
In any case, please read my immediately previous post. When you get to my age and health levels, you have to go for the best options, which for me and my car I need to keep on a straightforward, sensible, standard. :D ;)
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I had a Monroe set of air shocks on my camaro.
Did a check - few options out there.
Google this - air ride shock absorber replacement for 2003 vauxhall omega elite
Yes Skruntie, Monroe shocks from Autodoc range from £29 to £64 for standard shocks for my 3.2 Omega, and there is a version priced at £112, of a type which isn’t fitted to mine.
So for me, the £238 for fitting two is more than acceptable for me these days! ;D ;D ;)
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I had a Monroe set of air shocks on my camaro.
Did a check - few options out there.
Google this - air ride shock absorber replacement for 2003 vauxhall omega elite
Yes Skruntie, Monroe shocks from Autodoc range from £29 to £64 for standard shocks for my 3.2 Omega, and there is a version priced at £112, of a type which isn’t fitted to mine.
So for me, the £238 for fitting two is more than acceptable for me these days! ;D ;D ;)
.
As I said earlier you've found a great deal with a dealer that knows you, peace of mind for another year, keep on top of the repairs & it will motor on forever 👍
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Book time is probably an hour a side. That's got to be a minimum of £120 a side plus VAT
There's no way this side of the moon that that job is being done correctly.
I’m using a main Vauxhall dealer who knows my car, and I know their management team. Therefore. I know I have redress if they get things wrong, and anyway on a car that is 23 years old and hardly does 3,000 miles in a year, I just want what is easy to do; that is a professionally outfit doing the work whilst I keep in the warm and dry that now I must do for age and health reasons :)
Nobody is saying paying somebody to do the work is a bad idea. None of us are getting any younger, and I'm still sporting an injury from changing a wheel last year ;D
But there is an old adage, if something is too good to be true, it probably is. The price sounds massively low *IF* yours still has self levelling.
Hence, I urge you to just check (nothing strenuous, just getting down on hands and knees to check (or photo, if unsure) the base of the shock). It's possible in a former life, its have the SL removed, in which case that price doesn't sound low at all.
Given that I believe SL springs coupled with a non SL shock will dramatically impact handling in an unpredictable way, I really do urge you to do this simple check, and if you have got SL shocks, contact your dealer and check they know this.
Obviously, your car, your choice, so I will say no more on the matter. But I think we'd all be sorry to hear you'd reversed it into a hedge, or worse, because somebody who doesn't know Omegas put the wrong combination of parts on.
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Exactly. :y
Also just listen for the S/L compressor kicking in for a few seconds when ignition is switched.
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I will just quickly add, if your has got SL springs, and they can only fit non SL, its worth asking them how much extra to fit non Elite springs at the same time :y - likely to be just parts cost at that point, as it's already stripped down....
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i have to agree with some of the above comments yes .
if the car has been modified over the years to non self levelling then yes fitting a pair of normal standard shocks and cleaning /greasing the brake pipes would be doable at that quoted price (if not a little expensive ?)
BUT as said if your still on the factory self levelling system then id be asking what they are actually going to do ??
but aside all that -what and why are the shocks an advisory anyway .had they thought they seemed a little soft whilst maybee dropping into the brake test rollers ? or what .they dont do the corner bounce check anymore and you wouldnt spot a leaking shaft seal because of the air boot ???
marking brake pipes as "covered in grease or other material " is pretty standard anyway unless obviously rusty !
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Book time is probably an hour a side. That's got to be a minimum of £120 a side plus VAT
There's no way this side of the moon that that job is being done correctly.
I’m using a main Vauxhall dealer who knows my car, and I know their management team. Therefore. I know I have redress if they get things wrong, and anyway on a car that is 23 years old and hardly does 3,000 miles in a year, I just want what is easy to do; that is a professionally outfit doing the work whilst I keep in the warm and dry that now I must do for age and health reasons :)
Nobody is saying paying somebody to do the work is a bad idea. None of us are getting any younger, and I'm still sporting an injury from changing a wheel last year ;D
But there is an old adage, if something is too good to be true, it probably is. The price sounds massively low *IF* yours still has self levelling.
Hence, I urge you to just check (nothing strenuous, just getting down on hands and knees to check (or photo, if unsure) the base of the shock). It's possible in a former life, its have the SL removed, in which case that price doesn't sound low at all.
Given that I believe SL springs coupled with a non SL shock will dramatically impact handling in an unpredictable way, I really do urge you to do this simple check, and if you have got SL shocks, contact your dealer and check they know this.
Obviously, your car, your choice, so I will say no more on the matter. But I think we'd all be sorry to hear you'd reversed it into a hedge, or worse, because somebody who doesn't know Omegas put the wrong combination of parts on.
Thanks TB, I note your comments. :y However I know already that my Omega has not got S/L shocks fitted, being just plain, everyday ones. I don't know if it ever did have them, but there is no sign of them now. :D ;)
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i have to agree with some of the above comments yes .
if the car has been modified over the years to non self levelling then yes fitting a pair of normal standard shocks and cleaning /greasing the brake pipes would be doable at that quoted price (if not a little expensive ?)
BUT as said if your still on the factory self levelling system then id be asking what they are actually going to do ??
but aside all that -what and why are the shocks an advisory anyway .had they thought they seemed a little soft whilst maybee dropping into the brake test rollers ? or what .they dont do the corner bounce check anymore and you wouldnt spot a leaking shaft seal because of the air boot ???
marking brake pipes as "covered in grease or other material " is pretty standard anyway unless obviously rusty !
Thanks for your comments. :y The shocks are slightly leaking, which the MOT inspector noted as "light misting of oil" on each shock. So they could last another year or two, but I always rectify any advisories as quickly as possible to keep the car up to standard.
The brake pipe cleaning I (think) I will do when it is dry and warm, with the right tool and coatings for the job identified for purchase. The £300+ cost being quoted by the dealer is too steep for a job I can, just, still do, as I have done before.
I am also going to clean up the callipers, so need to identify whast is the right paint to use. Any ideas anyone please? ??? ??? :D :)
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Nice rare colour for the Omega owned by Lizzie, although obviously not as rare as the almost unique star silver. :y
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I had a Monroe set of air shocks on my camaro.
Did a check - few options out there.
Google this - air ride shock absorber replacement for 2003 vauxhall omega elite
Yes Skruntie, Monroe shocks from Autodoc range from £29 to £64 for standard shocks for my 3.2 Omega, and there is a version priced at £112, of a type which isn’t fitted to mine.
So for me, the £238 for fitting two is more than acceptable for me these days! ;D ;D ;)
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As I said earlier you've found a great deal with a dealer that knows you, peace of mind for another year, keep on top of the repairs & it will motor on forever 👍
Exactly Rangie :y :y After my last near death experience in October 2023, nothing matters so much now when it comes to everyday simple challenges that just are not worth the hassle and worry that when I was younger could cope with. Keeping it as simple as possible is now my daily aim! >:D >:D ;)
It is funny that yesterday a male friend of mine was under the front of a car, owned by a female friend, laying on the damp and cold road. He is 40 years of age, and I joked that when I was 17 I could do that, but not now, and he will soon suffer from doing what he still does!! >:D >:D >:D
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Nice rare colour for the Omega owned by Lizzie, although obviously not as rare as the almost unique star silver. :y
Thanks Opti ;D ;D :y
Funnily enough, yet again, I was approached by a young chap whilst sitting in my car who was praising such a rare beast. He went on to ask if he could video it whilst revving the engine. He explained his father used to own Omega's and loved them, so he wanted to show him one of the few still around! :D ;)
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I had a Monroe set of air shocks on my camaro.
Did a check - few options out there.
Google this - air ride shock absorber replacement for 2003 vauxhall omega elite
Yes Skruntie, Monroe shocks from Autodoc range from £29 to £64 for standard shocks for my 3.2 Omega, and there is a version priced at £112, of a type which isn’t fitted to mine.
So for me, the £238 for fitting two is more than acceptable for me these days! ;D ;D ;)
.
As I said earlier you've found a great deal with a dealer that knows you, peace of mind for another year, keep on top of the repairs & it will motor on forever 👍
Exactly Rangie :y :y After my last near death experience in October 2023, nothing matters so much now when it comes to everyday simple challenges that just are not worth the hassle and worry that when I was younger could cope with. Keeping it as simple as possible is now my daily aim! >:D >:D ;)
It is funny that yesterday a male friend of mine was under the front of a car, owned by a female friend, laying on the damp and cold road. He is 40 years of age, and I joked that when I was 17 I could do that, but not now, and he will soon suffer from doing what he still does!! >:D >:D >:D
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I know exactly what you mean Lizzie , I always used to service my cars myself & thought nothing of it, the more modern they became the less I did, the last oil change I did was on our old Subaru Forester about 4 years ago, after getting up from underneath it I swore that would be my last time under a vehicle, I actually struggled to get to my feet. Both our cars go to garages now servicing & I like you have no complaints , certainly with my wife's Toyota I wouldn't know where to start under the bonnet is a complete mystery to me but it returns 72mpg as an average & has shown 136 mpg on a long run ,in my eyes that is sheer magic ✨
Having said that if I could have my Omega back in the same condition I sold it in I'd snatch the owners hand off, it will always be the car I regretted selling the most.
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Book time is probably an hour a side. That's got to be a minimum of £120 a side plus VAT
There's no way this side of the moon that that job is being done correctly.
I’m using a main Vauxhall dealer who knows my car, and I know their management team. Therefore. I know I have redress if they get things wrong, and anyway on a car that is 23 years old and hardly does 3,000 miles in a year, I just want what is easy to do; that is a professionally outfit doing the work whilst I keep in the warm and dry that now I must do for age and health reasons :)
Nobody is saying paying somebody to do the work is a bad idea. None of us are getting any younger, and I'm still sporting an injury from changing a wheel last year ;D
But there is an old adage, if something is too good to be true, it probably is. The price sounds massively low *IF* yours still has self levelling.
Hence, I urge you to just check (nothing strenuous, just getting down on hands and knees to check (or photo, if unsure) the base of the shock). It's possible in a former life, its have the SL removed, in which case that price doesn't sound low at all.
Given that I believe SL springs coupled with a non SL shock will dramatically impact handling in an unpredictable way, I really do urge you to do this simple check, and if you have got SL shocks, contact your dealer and check they know this.
Obviously, your car, your choice, so I will say no more on the matter. But I think we'd all be sorry to hear you'd reversed it into a hedge, or worse, because somebody who doesn't know Omegas put the wrong combination of parts on.
Thanks TB, I note your comments. :y However I know already that my Omega has not got S/L shocks fitted, being just plain, everyday ones. I don't know if it ever did have them, but there is no sign of them now. :D ;)
How do you know it hasnt got S/L shocks fitted ?
It will 100% definitely have had them fitted from new, so if it hasnt got them now someone has removed them for some reason.
If it hasnt got them fitted now I hope whoever removed them fitted appropriate springs when they changed the shocks.
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Links readily available. But it's not the first time that Betty has been turned over by her VX dealer :-X
Doing the job correctly, means either the correct shocks or new shocks, springs and a couple of hours to remove the self levelling gubbins. Pulling the fuse is to totally half arse it.
Genuine non SL shocks are circa £100 each. Springs around £60. £237 at a main dealer isn't going to buy anything worth getting. :-X
Really?? !! :o :o
The only time I have had a problem with them because of a new genuine GM A/C compressor failing within two years of being fitted, the General Manager blah blah blah
I presume this is the same place that tried to charge £320 to change a ball joint at the last MoT ???
I have two questions:
As your car left the factory with self levelling suspension:
1. When was it removed?
2. Was it removed correctly or did they simply pull the fuse and fit standard shocks?
Any VX dealer would know from the VIN that it should have self levelling rear suspension even if they don't know or understand why or how it works. Actually any garage would be able to find that information easily enough :-X
That they apparently are prepared to throw on whatever is currently fitted raises more than an eyebrow.
I get that you may no longer be able to get under the car to do things, especially suspension work, (it's a bear to do even 15 years ago), but you are being led up the garden path by people that are only interested in depriving you of your money whilst smiling and making you think they've done you a favour. They haven't and they're not..
I'm not going to waste my time digging up links because you'll only ignore them and the advice given.
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Links readily available. But it's not the first time that Betty has been turned over by her VX dealer :-X
Doing the job correctly, means either the correct shocks or new shocks, springs and a couple of hours to remove the self levelling gubbins. Pulling the fuse is to totally half arse it.
Genuine non SL shocks are circa £100 each. Springs around £60. £237 at a main dealer isn't going to buy anything worth getting. :-X
Really?? !! :o :o
The only time I have had a problem with them because of a new genuine GM A/C compressor failing within two years of being fitted, the General Manager blah blah blah
I presume this is the same place that tried to charge £320 to change a ball joint at the last MoT ???
I have two questions:
As your car left the factory with self levelling suspension:
1. When was it removed?
2. Was it removed correctly or did they simply pull the fuse and fit standard shocks?
Any VX dealer would know from the VIN that it should have self levelling rear suspension even if they don't know or understand why or how it works. Actually any garage would be able to find that information easily enough :-X
That they apparently are prepared to throw on whatever is currently fitted raises more than an eyebrow.
I get that you may no longer be able to get under the car to do things, especially suspension work, (it's a bear to do even 15 years ago), but you are being led up the garden path by people that are only interested in depriving you of your money whilst smiling and making you think they've done you a favour. They haven't and they're not..
I'm not going to waste my time digging up links because you'll only ignore them and the advice given.
No DG, I have not had any issue with ball joints, or any other item, following an MOT or anything else. The only issue was the A/C co0mpressor which the dealer sorted quickly. ;)
As for your last comment, I do note your comments and advice but I cannot always act on them due to not being abloe to work on cars like you do, and once I could many years ago! ::) ::)
However, I have also noted your questions, and those of TB, Migv6, cam in the head, etc, about S/L shocks on my car. I was convinced that I did not have that system as the rear of the cars height does not change between the engine being on, or off, and there is no sound of a system working as there was with previous Vauxhalls I have possessed.
BUT, I am an honest, straightforward women who does not bullshit like many men so (sorry men!! >:D >:D) and I will now state that I believe I WAS WRONG IN MY ASSESSMENT that I did not have a S/L system!!! ::) ::) :-[ :-[ :P
Because you all cast much doubt in my mind over this, I went outside, down to my garage, and jacked up the offside rear of my car, taking the wheel off. What I found was, I now believe, signs that there is a S/L system, but I don't think it is working due to what I have stated previously. I have taken photos of the shock and diff which show signs of a S/L system, and I am trying to remember how now we can transfer photos from a current host site onto the OOF so you can judge yourselves and advise please. :D :)
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basically if the shocks have a large rubber bellow covering the centre section rather than a simple tube over tube look then they are indeed SL shocks but it cannot see how SL shocks could have a light misting of oil (ie a leak ?)all over them as where would the oil come from unless the rubber is perished or the actual body has a pinhole .
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(https://hosting.photobucket.com/e4f2eebf-881c-4e80-b0f8-548f0c2f396b/5fa0d240-b735-4f3d-8d60-e62ba080ac75.jpg?width=590&height=590&fit=bounds)
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/e4f2eebf-881c-4e80-b0f8-548f0c2f396b/f89d0946-75ba-4f17-89e5-68691ef91681.jpg?width=320&height=320&fit=bounds)
YES!! Managed it finally!!
Sorry for the Photobucket banner! But can you see enough to advise please?? ??? ???
;D :y
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yep self levelling indeed so if thd vx garage can keep ti their price you will indeed get a bargain but they wont !
so its as suggested ealier
2options
find the correct shocks and make sure the system is working or
convert springs and shocks to normal style (dont know if this would be classed as a modification to the vehicle thou ??
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yep self levelling indeed so if thd vx garage can keep ti their price you will indeed get a bargain but they wont !
so its as suggested ealier
2options
find the correct shocks and make sure the system is working or
convert springs and shocks to normal style (dont know if this would be classed as a modification to the vehicle thou ??
Thanks :y :y
I will now give that problem to my Vx dealer, and hold them to their quote!! >:D >:D
They are meant to be the experts and have not let me down before ;)
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Links readily available. But it's not the first time that Betty has been turned over by her VX dealer :-X
Doing the job correctly, means either the correct shocks or new shocks, springs and a couple of hours to remove the self levelling gubbins. Pulling the fuse is to totally half arse it.
Genuine non SL shocks are circa £100 each. Springs around £60. £237 at a main dealer isn't going to buy anything worth getting. :-X
Really?? !! :o :o
The only time I have had a problem with them because of a new genuine GM A/C compressor failing within two years of being fitted, the General Manager blah blah blah
I presume this is the same place that tried to charge £320 to change a ball joint at the last MoT ???
I have two questions:
As your car left the factory with self levelling suspension:
1. When was it removed?
2. Was it removed correctly or did they simply pull the fuse and fit standard shocks?
Any VX dealer would know from the VIN that it should have self levelling rear suspension even if they don't know or understand why or how it works. Actually any garage would be able to find that information easily enough :-X
That they apparently are prepared to throw on whatever is currently fitted raises more than an eyebrow.
I get that you may no longer be able to get under the car to do things, especially suspension work, (it's a bear to do even 15 years ago), but you are being led up the garden path by people that are only interested in depriving you of your money whilst smiling and making you think they've done you a favour. They haven't and they're not..
I'm not going to waste my time digging up links because you'll only ignore them and the advice given.
No DG, I have not had any issue with ball joints, or any other item, following an MOT or anything else. The only issue was the A/C co0mpressor which the dealer sorted quickly. ;)
As for your last comment, I do note your comments and advice but I cannot always act on them due to not being abloe to work on cars like you do, and once I could many years ago! ::) ::)
However, I have also noted your questions, and those of TB, Migv6, cam in the head, etc, about S/L shocks on my car. I was convinced that I did not have that system as the rear of the cars height does not change between the engine being on, or off, and there is no sound of a system working as there was with previous Vauxhalls I have possessed.
BUT, I am an honest, straightforward women who does not bullshit like many men so (sorry men!! >:D >:D) and I will now state that I believe I WAS WRONG IN MY ASSESSMENT that I did not have a S/L system!!! ::) ::) :-[ :-[ :P
Because you all cast much doubt in my mind over this, I went outside, down to my garage, and jacked up the offside rear of my car, taking the wheel off. What I found was, I now believe, signs that there is a S/L system, but I don't think it is working due to what I have stated previously. I have taken photos of the shock and diff which show signs of a S/L system, and I am trying to remember how now we can transfer photos from a current host site onto the OOF so you can judge yourselves and advise please. :D :)
This garage. Last year.
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=151422.0
:-X
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yep self levelling indeed so if thd vx garage can keep ti their price you will indeed get a bargain but they wont !
so its as suggested ealier
2options
find the correct shocks and make sure the system is working or
convert springs and shocks to normal style (dont know if this would be classed as a modification to the vehicle thou ??
Thanks :y :y
I will now give that problem to my Vx dealer, and hold them to their quote!! >:D >:D
They are meant to be the experts and have not let me down before ;)
That's the funniest thing I have heard all year. ;D
Expect a bill for about a grand to do that job properly. Even bodged you're looking at about £500 for the parts and fitting. The brake lines will be in addition to that.
If they just fit the shocks, they've no business being in business. It's really that simple.
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yep self levelling indeed so if thd vx garage can keep ti their price you will indeed get a bargain but they wont !
so its as suggested ealier
2options
find the correct shocks and make sure the system is working or
convert springs and shocks to normal style (dont know if this would be classed as a modification to the vehicle thou ??
It's technically a modification but it fits within the description of a reasonable repair as long as the springs and shocks are equivalent of/or factory fitted parts for an Omega B of the same age.
Just replacing the shocks for standard ones will take it outside type approval, notwithstanding that the handling will become unpredictable and potentially dangerous.
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Links readily available. But it's not the first time that Betty has been turned over by her VX dealer :-X
Doing the job correctly, means either the correct shocks or new shocks, springs and a couple of hours to remove the self levelling gubbins. Pulling the fuse is to totally half arse it.
Genuine non SL shocks are circa £100 each. Springs around £60. £237 at a main dealer isn't going to buy anything worth getting. :-X
Really?? !! :o :o
The only time I have had a problem with them because of a new genuine GM A/C compressor failing within two years of being fitted, the General Manager blah blah blah
I presume this is the same place that tried to charge £320 to change a ball joint at the last MoT ???
I have two questions:
As your car left the factory with self levelling suspension:
1. When was it removed?
2. Was it removed correctly or did they simply pull the fuse and fit standard shocks?
Any VX dealer would know from the VIN that it should have self levelling rear suspension even if they don't know or understand why or how it works. Actually any garage would be able to find that information easily enough :-X
That they apparently are prepared to throw on whatever is currently fitted raises more than an eyebrow.
I get that you may no longer be able to get under the car to do things, especially suspension work, (it's a bear to do even 15 years ago), but you are being led up the garden path by people that are only interested in depriving you of your money whilst smiling and making you think they've done you a favour. They haven't and they're not..
I'm not going to waste my time digging up links because you'll only ignore them and the advice given.
No DG, I have not had any issue with ball joints, or any other item, following an MOT or anything else. The only issue was the A/C co0mpressor which the dealer sorted quickly. ;)
As for your last comment, I do note your comments and advice but I cannot always act on them due to not being abloe to work on cars like you do, and once I could many years ago! ::) ::)
However, I have also noted your questions, and those of TB, Migv6, cam in the head, etc, about S/L shocks on my car. I was convinced that I did not have that system as the rear of the cars height does not change between the engine being on, or off, and there is no sound of a system working as there was with previous Vauxhalls I have possessed.
BUT, I am an honest, straightforward women who does not bullshit like many men so (sorry men!! >:D >:D) and I will now state that I believe I WAS WRONG IN MY ASSESSMENT that I did not have a S/L system!!! ::) ::) :-[ :-[ :P
Because you all cast much doubt in my mind over this, I went outside, down to my garage, and jacked up the offside rear of my car, taking the wheel off. What I found was, I now believe, signs that there is a S/L system, but I don't think it is working due to what I have stated previously. I have taken photos of the shock and diff which show signs of a S/L system, and I am trying to remember how now we can transfer photos from a current host site onto the OOF so you can judge yourselves and advise please. :D :)
This garage. Last year.
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=151422.0
:-X
Ah, now I understand your confusion. I actually had the TRACK ROD ends replaced all in for £188 using my other favoured garage, including the parts sourced from Autodoc. I knew I hadn’t had “ball joints” done by Vx or anyone else. ::) ::) >:D
You certainly don’t give up in trying to catch me out ::) Why the interest? ??? ??? >:D >:D
And why do you always look on the worst senerio? Do you want to scare me silly? ::) ::)
Whatever the Vx dealer has quoted I will just go along with - to start with. But there really is far worse to fear in life than challenges to do with cars, especially one that is now 23 years old that does not owe me a penny. It has given me a great means of transport for a total of £17,557. Over 13 years this July I reckon that is great value for such a car, that I could now sell for at least £4,000, but even without that it is still good value at £1,350 per year. The finance, depreciation, let alone servicing costs on a brand new car would well exceed that.
I was looking at a deal on a brand new Vx EV, with £13,000 off the list price, so costing £18,000 before even going out on the road. Not only would their be the significant cost of finance and depreciation per year, but a new battery every, say, 10 years can cost £10,000.
So give me my Omega “deal” anyday ;D ;D ;)
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Links readily available. But it's not the first time that Betty has been turned over by her VX dealer :-X
Doing the job correctly, means either the correct shocks or new shocks, springs and a couple of hours to remove the self levelling gubbins. Pulling the fuse is to totally half arse it.
Genuine non SL shocks are circa £100 each. Springs around £60. £237 at a main dealer isn't going to buy anything worth getting. :-X
Really?? !! :o :o
The only time I have had a problem with them because of a new genuine GM A/C compressor failing within two years of being fitted, the General Manager blah blah blah
I presume this is the same place that tried to charge £320 to change a ball joint at the last MoT ???
I have two questions:
As your car left the factory with self levelling suspension:
1. When was it removed?
2. Was it removed correctly or did they simply pull the fuse and fit standard shocks?
Any VX dealer would know from the VIN that it should have self levelling rear suspension even if they don't know or understand why or how it works. Actually any garage would be able to find that information easily enough :-X
That they apparently are prepared to throw on whatever is currently fitted raises more than an eyebrow.
I get that you may no longer be able to get under the car to do things, especially suspension work, (it's a bear to do even 15 years ago), but you are being led up the garden path by people that are only interested in depriving you of your money whilst smiling and making you think they've done you a favour. They haven't and they're not..
I'm not going to waste my time digging up links because you'll only ignore them and the advice given.
No DG, I have not had any issue with ball joints, or any other item, following an MOT or anything else. The only issue was the A/C co0mpressor which the dealer sorted quickly. ;)
As for your last comment, I do note your comments and advice but I cannot always act on them due to not being abloe to work on cars like you do, and once I could many years ago! ::) ::)
However, I have also noted your questions, and those of TB, Migv6, cam in the head, etc, about S/L shocks on my car. I was convinced that I did not have that system as the rear of the cars height does not change between the engine being on, or off, and there is no sound of a system working as there was with previous Vauxhalls I have possessed.
BUT, I am an honest, straightforward women who does not bullshit like many men so (sorry men!! >:D >:D) and I will now state that I believe I WAS WRONG IN MY ASSESSMENT that I did not have a S/L system!!! ::) ::) :-[ :-[ :P
Because you all cast much doubt in my mind over this, I went outside, down to my garage, and jacked up the offside rear of my car, taking the wheel off. What I found was, I now believe, signs that there is a S/L system, but I don't think it is working due to what I have stated previously. I have taken photos of the shock and diff which show signs of a S/L system, and I am trying to remember how now we can transfer photos from a current host site onto the OOF so you can judge yourselves and advise please. :D :)
This garage. Last year.
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=151422.0
:-X
Ah, now I understand your confusion. I actually had the TRACK ROD ends replaced all in for £188 using my other favoured garage, including the parts sourced from Autodoc. I knew I hadn’t had “ball joints” done by Vx or anyone else. ::) ::) >:D
You certainly don’t give up in trying to catch me out ::) Why the interest? ??? ??? >:D >:D
And why do you always look on the worst senerio? Do you want to scare me silly? ::) ::)
Whatever the Vx dealer has quoted I will just go along with - to start with. But there really is far worse to fear in life than challenges to do with cars, especially one that is now 23 years old that does not owe me a penny. It has given me a great means of transport for a total of £17,557 over13 years this July. I reckon that is great value for such a car, that I could now sell for at least £4,000, but even without that it is still good value at £1,350 per year. The finance, depreciation, let alone servicing costs on a brand new car would well exceed that.
I was looking at a deal on a brand new Vx EV, with £13,000 off the list price, so costing £18,000 before even going out on the road. Not only would their be the significant cost of finance and depreciation per year, but a new battery every, say, 10 years can cost £10,000.
So give me my Omega “deal” anyday ;D ;D ;)
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……..and one more point regarding S/L shocks, apart from your estimate of costs DG, is that they are not available. I note even as early as 2019 comments on the web mention that.
So standard shocks it is ::) ::) ;)
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putting all the above to one side for the moment
i cannot underdtand how 2 rubber booted shocks can have a light misting of oil anyway ? i would have thought the only way oil could leak out of those would be a holed body in ehich case they surrly should be a definate fail so i suspect theres nothing actually wtong with your shocks at all ???
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The ride height doesnt really change when the engine is switched on or off, but its kept constant by the little compressor when driving. Its more use when towing than anything else, and gives a smooth ride generally.
If the system wasnt working Im sure it would have been obvious by now while driving. You should though hear a faint noise from the compressor down by the o/s/f wheelarch when you switch the ignition on, if you listen for it.
Again, they wont be fitting S/L shocks, so that system needs disabling, but critically, the rear springs need to be changed from S/L springs to something like 2.6 spec springs.
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putting all the above to one side for the moment
i cannot underdtand how 2 rubber booted shocks can have a light misting of oil anyway ? i would have thought the only way oil could leak out of those would be a holed body in ehich case they surrly should be a definate fail so i suspect theres nothing actually wtong with your shocks at all ???
Very good point. :y
Imo, it isnt possible to get a misting of oil on S/L shocks like you would with normal shocks.
If the bladder bursts there is oil everywhere. I know this because it happened to one of mine.
LZ - if they remove them, please keep them and I may be interested in buying them from you . :y
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Its been a long time since we had an Omega thread which produces four pages of posts in the space of a few days. ;D
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putting all the above to one side for the moment
i cannot underdtand how 2 rubber booted shocks can have a light misting of oil anyway ? i would have thought the only way oil could leak out of those would be a holed body in ehich case they surrly should be a definate fail so i suspect theres nothing actually wtong with your shocks at all ???
I was going to mention, earlier, that I would just leave it until it's an MOT failure. Other, more serious, faults could develop before that, and the car won't live forever. If it's only doing 3000 miles a year, driven at a gentle pace, you're hardly going to knacker the existing shocks.
Just my opinion.
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wipe them clean ,examine them and look again in a couple of months !
(unless the dealer will honour their quote !!)
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……..and one more point regarding S/L shocks, apart from your estimate of costs DG, is that they are not available. I note even as early as 2019 comments on the web mention that.
So standard shocks it is ::) ::) ;)
My estimated costs IS for standard/non SL parts and labour. Springs and shocks are approximately £100 each side, £200 for both sides. That only leaves £30 for labour, plus VAT. QED they either aren't doing it right, have no idea what they're doing or are looking to take your money without actually doing anything.
The last pair of SL shocks I bought for the Omega was about 14 years ago and they were north of £200 each.
You're correct that they are no longer available, the point is rather that it's not as straightforward as simply fitting standard shocks.
They should know better but either don't care or don't understand what they're doing.
Self leveling shocks are air assisted oil filled. The compressor supplies air pressure to assist the springs by pressurising the outside of the strut body into the rubber boot in order to maintain ride height and is controlled by a level sensor/ECU unit on the right rear trailing arm.
As suggested they look 'wet/shiny' because the metal shock body is constantly being polished by the rubber boot, although they do potentially wear through over time as the boots trap detritus and moisture between the shock body and boot.
After the £320 quote to replace an advisory ball joint, I wouldn't take anything else they say seriously.
And FYI, the Omega front track rods each contain two ends. Each end is a ball joint. So play in a track rod end means play in the ball joint. Ergo you HAVE had them replaced.
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wipe them clean ,examine them and look again in a couple of months !
(unless the dealer will honour their quote !!)
Not even Dumbledore could pull that off :-X
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putting all the above to one side for the moment
i cannot underdtand how 2 rubber booted shocks can have a light misting of oil anyway ? i would have thought the only way oil could leak out of those would be a holed body in ehich case they surrly should be a definate fail so i suspect theres nothing actually wtong with your shocks at all ???
I was going to mention, earlier, that I would just leave it until it's an MOT failure. Other, more serious, faults could develop before that, and the car won't live forever. If it's only doing 3000 miles a year, driven at a gentle pace, you're hardly going to knacker the existing shocks.
Just my opinion.
Spot on. A lot can happen in twelve months.
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LZ - as others have confirmed, they ARE indeed SL.
Looking at the one you've pictured, I can see nothing wrong with it, sounds like MOTer arse covering - mine has had an advisory on rear pads for 2 years running, but they are only half worn, but its due to an element of previous disc damage giving a like scratch look to it, following a wheel bearing issue.
Personally, I would seriously consider leaving as-is, or if you're really keen, just cleaning the shocks. I honestly can't see any issue with them.
If you are convinced you must have new shocks, you will need springs to match, as previously stated. I would speak to your dealer before dropping it off, because they will do one of 2 things - either just slap on non SL shocks due to ignorance/incompetence or present you with a large bill. Neither are desirable.
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putting all the above to one side for the moment
i cannot underdtand how 2 rubber booted shocks can have a light misting of oil anyway ? i would have thought the only way oil could leak out of those would be a holed body in ehich case they surrly should be a definate fail so i suspect theres nothing actually wtong with your shocks at all ???
Maybe Cam in Head, but the visible condition of the shocks is not very good anyway. Regardless of the "oil misting", they look as though, after 23 years, they need replacing. So with my practice of having work done before it becomes critical, to keep my Omega up to the highest standards, I will just go along with it.
The comments by DG, TB and others about the quote I have had from my usually very reliable Vx dealer, has worried me greatly. All I can do is question them, and seek another quote / reaction from the tyre, exhaust, running gear and suspension specialist I use to balance with the Vx dealer. I have not got the time, or more importantly energy, to do anything else. In the now distant past I would have done all the work myself, but not now, a women of 72, who has no suitable men in my life to "take over"! Even jacking the car up yesterday, and removing the wheel, took it out of me! I had to have a good rest afterwards before I collapsed! :P :P
This may be giving the impression to some, like DG, that I am taking no notice of their advice. But I always do, and are grateful for it. The challenge for me is that I haven't always got the stamina to follow it up, apart from using my past professional skills to manage the situation in the easiest way possible and communicate with the potential dealers who may have the answers. :D ;)
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putting all the above to one side for the moment
i cannot underdtand how 2 rubber booted shocks can have a light misting of oil anyway ? i would have thought the only way oil could leak out of those would be a holed body in ehich case they surrly should be a definate fail so i suspect theres nothing actually wtong with your shocks at all ???
Very good point. :y
Imo, it isnt possible to get a misting of oil on S/L shocks like you would with normal shocks.
If the bladder bursts there is oil everywhere. I know this because it happened to one of mine.
LZ - if they remove them, please keep them and I may be interested in buying them from you . :y
Thanks for your great observations and advice Migv6, much appreciated. It is obvious, as I say in my last post prior to this one, that all I can do is question my Vx dealer with the new information I am getting. The shocks certainly look very old, and are the original I am sure with me having the car now for 13 years, and it being 23 years old, with no work ever being done on them. As a novice on this subject, I am in the dark about what is true or not when it comes to these parts, as I have NEVER had to replace shocks before on any of my numerous cars, even when their milage zoomed to 100,000 in just over a year with driving all over the UK.
So any further advice is welcome, PLEASE :D :)
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Its been a long time since we had an Omega thread which produces four pages of posts in the space of a few days. ;D
That is because it is me posting, and I am female!! ::) ::) >:D >:D >:D >:D
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wipe them clean ,examine them and look again in a couple of months !
(unless the dealer will honour their quote !!)
Now that is something I can do Cam in head!! Thanks :y :y :y :y
Is there anything special I should use to clean them please? I have plenty of anti rust spray, so is that any good.
I certainly will go along with this advice from you and others asap as it is POSSIBLE that there is nothing wrong with the shocks apart from being covered in dirt and grease. Certainly I have not noticed any handling problems when driving. ;)
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LZ - as others have confirmed, they ARE indeed SL.
Looking at the one you've pictured, I can see nothing wrong with it, sounds like MOTer arse covering - mine has had an advisory on rear pads for 2 years running, but they are only half worn, but its due to an element of previous disc damage giving a like scratch look to it, following a wheel bearing issue.
Personally, I would seriously consider leaving as-is, or if you're really keen, just cleaning the shocks. I honestly can't see any issue with them.
If you are convinced you must have new shocks, you will need springs to match, as previously stated. I would speak to your dealer before dropping it off, because they will do one of 2 things - either just slap on non SL shocks due to ignorance/incompetence or present you with a large bill. Neither are desirable.
Thanks TB :y :y You have just added more doubt in my mind about the true state of the shocks, which as I state, is a part I know nothing about ::) ::) You have just added to me making the decision to do nothing, but clean them,, when I am doing the brake pipes and callipers, in the Spring / Summer when it is warm and dry! :D :D ;)
Apart from all that, DG's comments and advice (thanks DG, I DO NOTE AND APPRECIATE THEM) about possible costs has scared me witless! I have got the money to pay the £1,000 he is suggesting IF it is necessary to keep my Omega in the best condition possible, given it's age. But I am not one to spend before I really have to, which in this case I am now doubting, a lot!! ::) ::) But as a retired professional senior manager, I deal in facts and always try to establish them before making decisions and taking action. I also have used the police practice of adhering to ABC in any decision making. That is Assume nothing, believe no-one, and challenge everything. I caught many thieves and pure criminals in my time in the retail trade by that practice, and it can still apply for me in these days!! >:D >:D
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With all the above, my first action will be to challenge my Vx dealer and try and get them to explain what their quote really covers.
Regardless of what they say, and taking into account what has been stated, where can they, or any other dealer, obtain S/L shocks which even in 2019 comments were being made on line that they were "unavailable" with GM ceasing production? Even my favoured Autodoc do not have these in stock!! ::) ::) :P
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When a final decision is reached, if you do have the shocks (and springs remember) changed, please keep the old ones and I may well be interested in buying them from you. :y
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A damp rag will suffice. ;)
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When a final decision is reached, if you do have the shocks (and springs remember) changed, please keep the old ones and I may well be interested in buying them from you. :y
;D ;D ;D Now I think I will be keeping them! ;D ;D ;D
On a serious note, how long do these shocks last on average? My Omega is 23 years old this June, and has done 88k miles ??? ??? ;)
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A damp rag will suffice. ;)
Thanks DG :y :y
But what is safe to soak the rag in to remove the grime please?
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A damp rag will suffice. ;)
Thanks DG :y :y
But what is safe to soak the rag in to remove the grime please?
Water. It gets wet under there every time you drive in the rain. ;)
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A damp rag will suffice. ;)
Thanks DG :y :y
But what is safe to soak the rag in to remove the grime please?
Water. It gets wet under there every time you drive in the rain. ;)
Yes, but water usually requires something to eat into grime and crud, which my shocks are covered in, let alone the signs of rust. So maybe washing up liquid added can help and not do any damage? ??? ??? I was also thinking this morning of white spirit which could be safe and not damage anything?? ??? ???
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Wipe it off with a rag and forget about it. Anymore involved and you may regret it.
The alternative is to replace everything... Because that's the only outcome from scrubbing.
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Wipe it off with a rag and forget about it. Anymore involved and you may regret it.
The alternative is to replace everything... Because that's the only outcome from scrubbing.
Right, thanks DG. :y :y I will take your advice :D ;)
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With all the valued advice I have been given, I have decided on a programme of works that I WILL DO myself come warmer and dryer weather.
I am not even going to speak to any garage, just clean the shocks and brake pipes, wire brush the light rust on the callipers, and do the cam cover gaskets that will need doing by then.
The MOT mentions that the steering idler bearing/bush is “worn allowing slight movement”. This I will get quotes for from my two local garages, and even make a trip up to Serek’ later in the year.
That will then ready the car for the next MOT in Jan 2027, without any rush and letting any garage to get one over on me, as DG would say! :D ;)
I just need my health to hold up and have the energy for all this ;D ;) ;)
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You're experienced enough to know how much play, if any, is in the steering. Words like 'slight' are known as 'arse covering' words. Your car passed with a few advisories, leave it at that.
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Wouldnt worry about steering idler unless you can feel the steering wandering while your driving.
Why will the " camcover gaskets need doing by then" ?
If you keep the breathers clean, camcover gaskets shouldnt present problems.
I did mine years ago when I first got the car but havent needed to touch them since, because I clean the breathers regularly.
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To clean the shocks, you just need an old rag. In many cases, you might not even need to wet it. Most of the crud will just fall off... ...and you're now trying to making it look good like bodywork ;)
Don't clean the air bladders at the bottom.
As for shock age, well, my XJ is on original shocks all round, is 16 years old, and over 170k... (and no, it doesn't drive like one of tunnie's old cars ;D)
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To clean the shocks, you just need an old rag. In many cases, you might not even need to wet it. Most of the crud will just fall off... ...and you're now trying to making it look good like bodywork ;)
Don't clean the air bladders at the bottom.
As for shock age, well, my XJ is on original shocks all round, is 16 years old, and over 170k... (and no, it doesn't drive like one of tunnie's old cars ;D)
The Proper Car is almost 20 years old and the same... Ok it has an overnight leak from a valve block, but not putting the air bladders at the bottom of the strut probably helps their longevity somewhat :-X
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To clean the shocks, you just need an old rag. In many cases, you might not even need to wet it. Most of the crud will just fall off... ...and you're now trying to making it look good like bodywork ;)
Don't clean the air bladders at the bottom.
As for shock age, well, my XJ is on original shocks all round, is 16 years old, and over 170k... (and no, it doesn't drive like one of tunnie's old cars ;D)
Thanks TB. All noted :y :y
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You're experienced enough to know how much play, if any, is in the steering. Words like 'slight' are known as 'arse covering' words. Your car passed with a few advisories, leave it at that.
Thanks Steve. :y :y I have now decided Steve to leave well alone as I have not noticed any steering issues. I MAY just ask the other garage I use, which specialises in the "running gear" for their opinion, without any commitment from me on doing anything. I just want a second opinion so I am prepared for 2027! :D ;)
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Wouldnt worry about steering idler unless you can feel the steering wandering while your driving.
Why will the " camcover gaskets need doing by then" ?
If you keep the breathers clean, camcover gaskets shouldnt present problems.
I did mine years ago when I first got the car but havent needed to touch them since, because I clean the breathers regularly.
It is just that I haven't done them for some time as my mileage is now so low. In the past I have found the usual oil in the plug wells, which has prompted me to do them. I must be honest in saying I do not regularly clean the breathing system fully, just the easy top end! If I remember correctly, Serek fully cleaned the breather system about 3 years and just 5k miles ago. That is why I am now thinking that it is the right time, and the easy option, later this year, to get that job done by Serek. BUT, I still may just wait and include these works in MY work plan later in the year.
Once more though I do not have any factual reason for having that job done, apart from previous experience and the knowledge that on the Omega you cannot leave it too long due to the nature / weakness of the breather system, and I have always done it. The expression "peace of mind" also comes into it. I did note once though that a OOF member stated that oil in the plug wells actually does nothing as electricity does not conduct through oil (??) I have yet to prove that :D :D :P
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clean oil doesnt but carboned up old oil can plus it wrecks the rubber boots ! add that to the water that can get in there and you end up with a mayo mess !
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All very true, but still no need to replace camcover gaskets as a matter of course.
Cleaning the breathers should be done that way though.
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clean oil doesnt but carboned up old oil can plus it wrecks the rubber boots ! add that to the water that can get in there and you end up with a mayo mess !
That is exactly how I understand it. I change my oil regularly, usually within 3k miles, and indeed currently I last changed it 2k ago. In fact that is another job on my list for the Summer months. ;)
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All very true, but still no need to replace camcover gaskets as a matter of course.
Cleaning the breathers should be done that way though.
Yes, if they're not leaking, leave them well alone. :y
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All very true, but still no need to replace camcover gaskets as a matter of course.
Cleaning the breathers should be done that way though.
Yes, if they're not leaking, leave them well alone. :y
Yes, thanks :y :y
I think i have rather got into the habit of changing them! ::) ::) :D ;)
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Congratulation on the pass :)
I imagine a dealer or anyone fitting shocks will just fit regular shocks ,not self levelling . is this YOUR case ?
IIRC, swapping from S.L set up to standard requires springs too :-\
Oops
Maybe I need to cut down on posting so much.
I only posted about once this year and caused 5 pages of arguing ;D
New aftermarket steering idlers are rubbish and will probably result in more play than the originals 'slight play'
rocker cover gaskets , "if it aint broke ...."
just stick to the IMPORTANT JOBS , like a new 'magic tree' air freshener for the windscreen ;)
PM Jamie ,he can talk you through it :P
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Congratulation on the pass :)
I imagine a dealer or anyone fitting shocks will just fit regular shocks ,not self levelling . is this YOUR case ?
IIRC, swapping from S.L set up to standard requires springs too :-\
Oops
Maybe I need to cut down on posting so much.
I only posted about once this year and caused 5 pages of arguing ;D
New aftermarket steering idlers are rubbish and will probably result in more play than the originals 'slight play'
rocker cover gaskets , "if it aint broke ...."
just stick to the IMPORTANT JOBS , like a new 'magic tree' air freshener for the windscreen ;)
PM Jamie ,he can talk you through it :P
Thanks Dave, and sorry for not answering your first post ::) ::) :y :y
Yes, as you can see I have taken full note of all the sound advice which I have received on this great Forum. It probably will save me a lot of £'s, time, and anguish.
The trouble is that the older I get the less I a) want to carryout myself b) can carryout c) have the confidence to do work that, as a 17 year old girl I would have done, in all weathers, without thinking!! ::) ::) :D So I am rather pleased that the wise on here have dissuaded me from doing anything for now, until a good cleaning underneath session when it is much warmer and dry!! ;D ;)
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Genuine steering idlers are difficult ( maybe impossible ?) to get hold of now.
Several years ago I fitted an aftermarket steering idler to an Omega and then took it for MOT test.
It failed on excessive play in the idler, which had covered about 10 miles from new.
In the end I managed to buy a new old stock Senator idler, which is identical apart from being longer, then pressed the bush out of it and fitted it to my old idler.
Not sure what the answer is these days for worn idlers. :-\
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Genuine steering idlers are difficult ( maybe impossible ?) to get hold of now.
Several years ago I fitted an aftermarket steering idler to an Omega and then took it for MOT test.
It failed on excessive play in the idler, which had covered about 10 miles from new.
In the end I managed to buy a new old stock Senator idler, which is identical apart from being longer, then pressed the bush out of it and fitted it to my old idler.
Not sure what the answer is these days for worn idlers. :-\
I used to just nip up the nut now and again. :-X ;D
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Genuine steering idlers are difficult ( maybe impossible ?) to get hold of now.
Several years ago I fitted an aftermarket steering idler to an Omega and then took it for MOT test.
It failed on excessive play in the idler, which had covered about 10 miles from new.
In the end I managed to buy a new old stock Senator idler, which is identical apart from being longer, then pressed the bush out of it and fitted it to my old idler.
Not sure what the answer is these days for worn idlers. :-\
I used to just nip up the nut now and again. :-X ;D
That’s interesting Sir Tigger. Is there a nut I can tighten when I eventually get under the car? ??? :)
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Congratulation on the pass :)
I imagine a dealer or anyone fitting shocks will just fit regular shocks ,not self levelling . is this YOUR case ?
IIRC, swapping from S.L set up to standard requires springs too :-\
Oops
Maybe I need to cut down on posting so much.
I only posted about once this year and caused 5 pages of arguing ;D
New aftermarket steering idlers are rubbish and will probably result in more play than the originals 'slight play'
rocker cover gaskets , "if it aint broke ...."
just stick to the IMPORTANT JOBS , like a new 'magic tree' air freshener for the windscreen ;)
PM Jamie ,he can talk you through it :P
Howdo Dave. Niceto see you come out of your bomb shelter for some fresh air. See you next February. ;D
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Howdo Dave. Niceto see you come out of your bomb shelter for some fresh air. See you next February. ;D
:y
I've got to MOT the "INSIGNI-cAn't", and re-stock baked beans ,so it may be a couple of weeks before returning to the bunker :P
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No probs, hope you have improved the ventilation system. Have you got a stage four charcoal odour filter?
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No probs, hope you have improved the ventilation system. Have you got a stage four charcoal odour filter?
stage 4 :-\
that wouldn't cope with the stink of my feet ,let alone my diet :D
High Density Ionization Air Purification etc ;)
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;D keep filling sandbags.
See you in twelve months to compare notes
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just stick to the IMPORTANT JOBS , like a new 'magic tree' air freshener for the windscreen ;)
Oi! >:(
;D
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just stick to the IMPORTANT JOBS , like a new 'magic tree' air freshener for the windscreen ;)
Oi! >:(
;D
New magic tree? Wouldn't you just reinstate the one you took off on the way to the test? :-X
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just stick to the IMPORTANT JOBS , like a new 'magic tree' air freshener for the windscreen ;)
Oi! >:(
;D
New magic tree? Wouldn't you just reinstate the one you took off on the way to the test? :-X
That's what any sensible person would do, surely?
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Sorry to be a pain, but please excuse me as an older women asking this: I have purchased a can of Holts professional brake cleaner, which I will use as instructed on the callipers and pipes. But can this be used to get the grime and any rust off of the shocks? ::) ::)
I note all your comments about using a "damp cloth", but wouldn't a cleaning agent assist the process as I use cleaning products to remove grime and grease from items like the cooker around the home? ??? ???
Why are the shocks apparently so vulnerable to heavier type cleaning? I do recognise though that the "bellows" / rubber parts must not come into contact with any cleaning products, so would mask them off.
Thanks for any replies and assistance with my work plan building for later in the year :D ;)
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I think brake cleaner would be overkill. Just a bit of soapy water would be fine, then see if any misting returns.
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just stick to the IMPORTANT JOBS , like a new 'magic tree' air freshener for the windscreen ;)
Oi! >:(
;D
New magic tree? Wouldn't you just reinstate the one you took off on the way to the test? :-X
My wife has an Angel dangling from her rear view mirror. If we forget to remove it before the MOT, it’s always on the passenger seat when we collect her car. This is decent of them really, as I suppose they could be petty and fail it. ::)
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Sorry to be a pain, but please excuse me as an older women asking this: I have purchased a can of Holts professional brake cleaner, which I will use as instructed on the callipers and pipes. But can this be used to get the grime and any rust off of the shocks? ::) ::)
Brake cleaner’s main attraction is that it dries/evaporates in seconds, which is handy when you want to clean and paint brake calipers. It’s not really necessary for shocks and other parts to be dry in an instant so soapy water is fine. :y
In my view, brake calipers are either painted and shiny, and with decals, like mine ::) ;D , or grubby and ordinary. To answer your question that you asked somewhere regarding painting them, I’ve used Foliatec Brems and E-Tech caliper paint with good results. I have only ever needed to paint them once, and my Omega calipers painted with Foliatec, and with decals, were still nice and shiny fifteen years later when I sold it. :y
If you choose Foliatec, do not follow the instructions to mix enough to paint all four calipers. Mix enough paint and lacquer to do one caliper and then repeat for each caliper. If you follow their instructions, the paint will be bullet hard in the pot before you’ve finished caliper number two. ::)
E-Tech is more forgiving as there is no mixing involved.
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It's only mud and crud from the road covering your shocks Lizzie, as said by others warm soapy water will be more than adequate. :y
Whenever I wash the car with a jet wash, I always give everything under the wheel arch a blast to get rid of the crud. If you do that though, be a little careful around the airpipe. :)
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Thanks Sir Tigger, YZ250 and Kevin for that reassurance and advice :y :y
In regards to paint for the callipers YZ250, I have purchased a can of Jenolite “Original Brake Caliper Paint” which is “high gloss durable finish” in silver :D
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Sorry to be a pain, but please excuse me as an older women asking this: I have purchased a can of Holts professional brake cleaner, which I will use as instructed on the callipers and pipes. But can this be used to get the grime and any rust off of the shocks? ::) ::)
I note all your comments about using a "damp cloth", but wouldn't a cleaning agent assist the process as I use cleaning products to remove grime and grease from items like the cooker around the home? ??? ???
Why are the shocks apparently so vulnerable to heavier type cleaning? I do recognise though that the "bellows" / rubber parts must not come into contact with any cleaning products, so would mask them off.
Thanks for any replies and assistance with my work plan building for later in the year :D ;)
Are you a Virgo?
I ask because you're overthinking this to a whole new level :o
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100 replies and counting on how to ignore MOT advisories and wipe down a pair of shocks.
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100 replies and counting on how to ignore MOT advisories and wipe down a pair of shocks.
;D ;D
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Sorry to be a pain, but please excuse me as an older women asking this: I have purchased a can of Holts professional brake cleaner, which I will use as instructed on the callipers and pipes. But can this be used to get the grime and any rust off of the shocks? ::) ::)
I note all your comments about using a "damp cloth", but wouldn't a cleaning agent assist the process as I use cleaning products to remove grime and grease from items like the cooker around the home? ??? ???
Why are the shocks apparently so vulnerable to heavier type cleaning? I do recognise though that the "bellows" / rubber parts must not come into contact with any cleaning products, so would mask them off.
Thanks for any replies and assistance with my work plan building for later in the year :D ;)
Are you a Virgo?
I ask because you're overthinking this to a whole new level :o
It is because I need to know what is required before I start any work. Others have raised many valid points on this thread, which is great as I could have just cleaned down the shocks with a cleaning agent as I would in my home! :D :D ;)
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100 replies and counting on how to ignore MOT advisories and wipe down a pair of shocks.
Yeah, isn't still good on the OOF Steve!! >:D >:D ;)
Like the "Word Association" thread..................................................!!!!! >:D >:D >:D :P
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100 replies and counting on how to ignore MOT advisories and wipe down a pair of shocks.
Yeah, isn't still good on the OOF Steve!! >:D >:D ;)
Like the "Word Association" thread..................................................!!!!! >:D >:D >:D :P
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That's a great thread ( word association) I started that under my first psydeonum ( Tilbo 2 Boxer dogs ) at the time I was following one on the MB forum surprised me how well it's done.😂😂😂
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To experienced people, some questions may sound daft. But that's the point of groups like this, to help out those who don't know, or lack the confidence, or simply seek clarification.
Obviously, piss taking is par for the course, unless it's about MOTs and Air Fresheners!
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Obviously, piss taking is par for the course, unless it's about MOTs and Air Fresheners!
:-[
OK, couple more posts and I'll get back in me bunker ;D
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To experienced people, some questions may sound daft. But that's the point of groups like this, to help out those who don't know, or lack the confidence, or simply seek clarification.
Obviously, piss taking is par for the course, unless it's about MOTs and Air Fresheners!
Absolutely right TB :y :y
In addition I would add that the older you get the less confidence you have, as by now we understand what can go horribly wrong when you do the wrong thing which costs more money that you cannot afford, and lead to the final day of our Omega, or whatever you are trying to save! ;)
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I have to agree with you Lizzie, that “the older you get the less confidence you have”. And daft questions have been my forté over the years.
Not only that, but one (that will be me) is far less flexible in the ‘under-car’ department. And I also know (to my cost !!) what can go horribly wrong when you do the wrong thing, or your ambition exceeds your ability!
Don’t start me on arthritis in the hands!!!
Good on you LZ :y
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I have to agree with you Lizzie, that “the older you get the less confidence you have”. And daft questions have been my forté over the years.
Not only that, but one (that will be me) is far less flexible in the ‘under-car’ department. And I also know (to my cost !!) what can go horribly wrong when you do the wrong thing, or your ambition exceeds your ability!
Don’t start me on arthritis in the hands!!!
Good on you LZ :y
That about sums it all up Dave :y ;)
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I have to agree with you Lizzie, that “the older you get the less confidence you have”. And daft questions have been my forté over the years.
Not only that, but one (that will be me) is far less flexible in the ‘under-car’ department. And I also know (to my cost !!) what can go horribly wrong when you do the wrong thing, or your ambition exceeds your ability!
Don’t start me on arthritis in the hands!!!
Good on you LZ :y
And with a little guidance, look what you achieved on your engine Dave G :y. Thats what forums are about.
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I have to agree with you Lizzie, that “the older you get the less confidence you have”. And daft questions have been my forté over the years.
Not only that, but one (that will be me) is far less flexible in the ‘under-car’ department. And I also know (to my cost !!) what can go horribly wrong when you do the wrong thing, or your ambition exceeds your ability!
Don’t start me on arthritis in the hands!!!
Good on you LZ :y
And with a little guidance, look what you achieved on your engine Dave G :y. Thats what forums are about.
And that is what is important. I am a Machiavellian, so I believe in the ends justifies the means. That is in the case of us and our Omega's, what are "silly" questions to some, but can be asked on this great Forum, result in the right ending; a valued and loved Omega continuing to give us a lovely journey every time! 8) 8) ;)
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AND one thing we are all curious to know is ,did you ever ring the garage about their "quote" ?
just to see what they said !
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AND one thing we are all curious to know is ,did you ever ring the garage about their "quote" ?
just to see what they said !
No I didn't, as after obtaining the great valued advice on here, I realised I would be wasting my time in doing so. How could they explain the fact that they quoted for standard shocks, not self levelling ones without coming out with a daft quote for the correct ones that now seem unobtainable! ::) ::) :-X
I will just clean everything down when the warmer, dryer, weather comes later in the year :)
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not that its entirely relevant but a few years back i managed to find a pair of brand new genuine air shocks for my carlton 2.2 from 'vauxhall green parts'.these were presumably quite rare then for that car and i think i paid around £30 each for them .i looked a few days later and they still had some but had tripled the price (or more !)
there will be some omega ones stashed away somewhere !!
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Probably, but finding where they are stashed is another matter. :)
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ive always found that everything you want EVENTUALLY pops up on ebay !
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not that its entirely relevant but a few years back i managed to find a pair of brand new genuine air shocks for my carlton 2.2 from 'vauxhall green parts'.these were presumably quite rare then for that car and i think i paid around £30 each for them .i looked a few days later and they still had some but had tripled the price (or more !)
there will be some omega ones stashed away somewhere !!
I've got three sets of nos saloon s/l shocks that I bought off that excellent website 'Car Parts Connection' for little money at the time. Dealers listed their 'out of date' stock; you had to know the part numbers to search for items, but there were great bargains to be had! Unfortunately PSA (I think) shut it down a good few years ago.
Before anyone asks, sorry no, they aren't for sale as I have several Elites.....but when I'm on my death bed, I'll try to remember to put a post on here, but you'll have to form an orderly queue... ;D