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[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

The ride height doesnt really change when the engine is switched on or off, but its kept constant by the little compressor when driving. Its more use when towing than anything else, and gives a smooth ride generally.
If the system wasnt working Im sure it would have been obvious by now while driving. You should though hear a faint noise from the compressor down by the o/s/f wheelarch when you switch the ignition on,  if you listen for it.
Again, they wont be fitting S/L shocks, so that system needs disabling, but critically, the rear springs need to be changed from S/L springs to something like 2.6 spec springs.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

putting all the above to one side for the moment
i cannot underdtand how 2 rubber booted shocks can have a light misting of oil anyway ?  i would have thought the only way oil could leak out of those would be a holed body in ehich case they surrly should be a definate fail so i suspect theres nothing actually wtong with your shocks at all

Very good point. 
Imo, it isnt possible to get a misting of oil on S/L shocks like you would with normal shocks.
If the bladder bursts there is oil everywhere. I know this because it happened to one of mine.
LZ - if they remove them, please keep them and I may be interested in buying them from you . 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Its been a long time since we had an Omega thread which produces four pages of posts in the space of a few days. 

[STEMO]

putting all the above to one side for the moment
i cannot underdtand how 2 rubber booted shocks can have a light misting of oil anyway ?  i would have thought the only way oil could leak out of those would be a holed body in ehich case they surrly should be a definate fail so i suspect theres nothing actually wtong with your shocks at all

I was going to mention, earlier, that I would just leave it until it's an MOT failure. Other, more serious, faults could develop before that, and the car won't live forever. If it's only doing 3000 miles a year, driven at a gentle pace, you're hardly going to knacker the existing shocks.
Just my opinion.

[cam.in.head]

wipe them clean ,examine them and look again in a couple of months !
(unless the dealer will honour their quote !!)

[Doctor Gollum]

……..and one more point regarding S/L shocks, apart from your estimate of costs DG, is that they are not available. I note even as early as 2019 comments on the web mention that.

So standard shocks it is

My estimated costs IS for standard/non SL parts and labour. Springs and shocks are approximately £100 each side, £200 for both sides. That only leaves £30 for labour, plus VAT. QED they either aren't doing it right, have no idea what they're doing or are looking to take your money without actually doing anything.

The last pair of SL shocks I bought for the Omega was about 14 years ago and they were north of £200 each.

You're correct that they are no longer available, the point is rather that it's not as straightforward as simply fitting standard shocks.

They should know better but either don't care or don't understand what they're doing.

Self leveling shocks are air assisted oil filled. The compressor supplies air pressure to assist the springs by pressurising the outside of the strut body into the rubber boot in order to maintain ride height and is controlled by a level sensor/ECU unit on the right rear trailing arm.

As suggested they look 'wet/shiny' because the metal shock body is constantly being polished by the rubber boot, although they do potentially wear through over time as the boots trap detritus and moisture between the shock body and boot.

After the £320 quote to replace an advisory ball joint, I wouldn't take anything else they say seriously.

And FYI, the Omega front track rods each contain two ends. Each end is a ball joint. So play in a track rod end means play in the ball joint. Ergo you HAVE had them replaced.

[Doctor Gollum]

wipe them clean ,examine them and look again in a couple of months !
(unless the dealer will honour their quote !!)

Not even Dumbledore could pull that off

[Varche]

putting all the above to one side for the moment
i cannot underdtand how 2 rubber booted shocks can have a light misting of oil anyway ?  i would have thought the only way oil could leak out of those would be a holed body in ehich case they surrly should be a definate fail so i suspect theres nothing actually wtong with your shocks at all

I was going to mention, earlier, that I would just leave it until it's an MOT failure. Other, more serious, faults could develop before that, and the car won't live forever. If it's only doing 3000 miles a year, driven at a gentle pace, you're hardly going to knacker the existing shocks.
Just my opinion.

Spot on. A lot can happen in twelve months.

[TheBoy]

LZ - as others have confirmed, they ARE indeed SL.

Looking at the one you've pictured, I can see nothing wrong with it, sounds like MOTer arse covering - mine has had an advisory on rear pads for 2 years running, but they are only half worn, but its due to an element of previous disc damage giving a like scratch look to it, following a wheel bearing issue.


Personally, I would seriously consider leaving as-is, or if you're really keen, just cleaning the shocks. I honestly can't see any issue with them.

If you are convinced you must have new shocks, you will need springs to match, as previously stated.  I would speak to your dealer before dropping it off, because they will do one of 2 things - either just slap on non SL shocks due to ignorance/incompetence or present you with a large bill.  Neither are desirable.

[Lizzie Zoom]

putting all the above to one side for the moment
i cannot underdtand how 2 rubber booted shocks can have a light misting of oil anyway ?  i would have thought the only way oil could leak out of those would be a holed body in ehich case they surrly should be a definate fail so i suspect theres nothing actually wtong with your shocks at all

Maybe Cam in Head, but the visible condition of the shocks is not very good anyway.  Regardless of the "oil misting", they look as though, after 23 years, they need replacing.  So with my practice of having work done before it becomes critical, to keep my Omega up to the highest standards, I will just go along with it.

The comments by DG, TB and others about the quote I have had from my usually very reliable Vx dealer, has worried me greatly.  All I can do is question them, and seek another quote / reaction from the tyre, exhaust, running gear and suspension specialist I use to balance with the Vx dealer.  I have not got the time, or more importantly energy, to do anything else.  In the now distant past I would have done all the work myself, but not now, a women of 72, who has no suitable men in my life to "take over"!   Even jacking the car up yesterday, and removing the wheel, took it out of me!  I had to have a good rest afterwards before I collapsed!

This may be giving the impression to some, like DG,  that I am taking no notice of their advice.  But I always do, and are grateful for it.  The challenge for me is that I haven't always got the stamina to follow it up, apart from using my past professional skills to manage the situation in the easiest way possible and communicate with the potential dealers who may have the answers.

[Lizzie Zoom]

putting all the above to one side for the moment
i cannot underdtand how 2 rubber booted shocks can have a light misting of oil anyway ?  i would have thought the only way oil could leak out of those would be a holed body in ehich case they surrly should be a definate fail so i suspect theres nothing actually wtong with your shocks at all

Very good point. 
Imo, it isnt possible to get a misting of oil on S/L shocks like you would with normal shocks.
If the bladder bursts there is oil everywhere. I know this because it happened to one of mine.
LZ - if they remove them, please keep them and I may be interested in buying them from you . 

Thanks for your great observations and advice Migv6, much appreciated.  It is obvious, as I say in my last post prior to this one, that all I can do is question my Vx dealer with the new information I am getting.  The shocks certainly look very old, and are the original I am sure with me having the car now for 13 years, and it being 23 years old, with no work ever being done on them.  As a novice on this subject, I am in the dark about what is true or not when it comes to these parts, as I have NEVER had to replace shocks before on any of my numerous cars, even when their milage zoomed to 100,000 in just over a year with driving all over the UK.

So any further advice is welcome, PLEASE  

[Lizzie Zoom]

Its been a long time since we had an Omega thread which produces four pages of posts in the space of a few days. 

That is because it is me posting, and I am female!!

[Lizzie Zoom]

wipe them clean ,examine them and look again in a couple of months !
(unless the dealer will honour their quote !!)

Now that is something I can do Cam in head!!  Thanks

Is there anything special I should use to clean them please?  I have plenty of anti rust spray, so is that any good.

I certainly will go along with this advice from you and others asap as it is POSSIBLE that there is nothing wrong with the shocks apart from being covered in dirt and grease.  Certainly I have not noticed any handling problems when driving.

[Lizzie Zoom]

LZ - as others have confirmed, they ARE indeed SL.

Looking at the one you've pictured, I can see nothing wrong with it, sounds like MOTer arse covering - mine has had an advisory on rear pads for 2 years running, but they are only half worn, but its due to an element of previous disc damage giving a like scratch look to it, following a wheel bearing issue.


Personally, I would seriously consider leaving as-is, or if you're really keen, just cleaning the shocks. I honestly can't see any issue with them.

If you are convinced you must have new shocks, you will need springs to match, as previously stated.  I would speak to your dealer before dropping it off, because they will do one of 2 things - either just slap on non SL shocks due to ignorance/incompetence or present you with a large bill.  Neither are desirable.

Thanks TB   You have just added more doubt in my mind about the true state of the shocks, which as I state, is a part I know nothing about   You have just added to me making the decision to do nothing, but clean them,, when I am doing the brake pipes and callipers, in the Spring / Summer when it is warm and dry!

Apart from all that, DG's comments and advice (thanks DG, I DO NOTE AND APPRECIATE THEM) about possible costs has scared me witless!  I have got the money to pay the £1,000 he is suggesting IF it is necessary to keep my Omega in the best condition possible, given it's age.  But I am not one to spend before I really have to, which in this case I am now doubting, a lot!!   But as a retired professional senior manager, I deal in facts and always try to establish them before making decisions and taking action.   I also have used the police practice of adhering to ABC in any decision making.  That is Assume nothing, believe no-one, and challenge everything.  I caught many thieves and pure criminals in my time in the retail trade by that practice, and it can still apply for me in these days!!

[Lizzie Zoom]

With all the above, my first action will be to challenge my Vx dealer and try and get them to explain what their quote really covers.

Regardless of what they say, and taking into account what has been stated, where can they, or any other dealer, obtain S/L shocks which even in 2019 comments were being made on line that they were "unavailable" with GM ceasing production?  Even my favoured Autodoc do not have these in stock!!