Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: bertiecbx550 on 04 February 2010, 09:53:24
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I bought a 60gb ps3 off ebay last week...It came yesterday and i put it away till now as i`m off for 6days....I went to set it up and theres no picture i`ve tried the lead off the ps2 that i know works still no pic.....I`m at a loss now as what to do?? :-/ as i`ve read his advert and states its fully working...But also he states no returns!!....All i wanted to do was play CODMW2 with my stepson....Flipping great...... :(
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Like I mentioned last week Bertie, if you buy electricals from ebay allways ask for insurance,
It might have been FUNAR before sending hence buyer states no returns.
2nd class post, how do you think the post office handled it.
Was it marked "HANDLE WITH CARE" or "FRAGILE"
Best way, have you got a mate with PS3, can you take yours to thier house and test it on known cables/equipment and games.
Hope it's something simple.
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If you get it sorted mate let me know your gamertag
I am on MW2 every night for about 3 hrs........
cheers
Martyn
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Only thing I can think of Bertie is that maybe it is setup to use a different output than you are using. Are you using scart or HDMI? Try switching between them before condeming. I have to switch between them because I have no surround sound (yet)
Give me a PM if you need more help :y
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My sons says turn it on but keep holding the power button, it'll beep twice, when the system light goes red again let go of the button. This resets the video settings.
Hope it works mate :y
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I tried the reset by pressing the on/off button but no pic or sound and i rang a local console repairer and it sounds like the motherboard has a fault that will cost around £90....And now me brakes are playing up on the miggy...... :-X
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Be wary of people who diagnose over the phone unless you trust their judgement. Do you have a tv with hdmi input? if not ask your neighbours....
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Looking forward to Jamie's input ;D
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Watch the lights on the console when you switch on.If you get a flashing yellow light or lights are going from green to yelow and then blinks red you have a problem with the mother board
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My sons says turn it on but keep holding the power button, it'll beep twice, when the system light goes red again let go of the button. This resets the video settings.
Hope it works mate :y
Yep this did it for me when I bought my bro's ps3 off him
He had been using it on HDMI and it wouldnt work on my normal tv until I did the above.
Well worth a try.......!!!
:y
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I am repairing ps3 with the yellow light of death and have had a similar problem. To reset the video output hold the on/off switch and turn the power on - there wil will a double bleep. Keep holding the button until the ps3 turns off (light turns red) turn off power, turn on power and press on/off console should operate - keep repeating until you get output. Motherboard problem is yellow light of death and I fix this for £40.
By the way biggest cause of YLOD is CODMW2 so be warned - every one that I fix has this disk in!!!!
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I am repairing ps3 with the yellow light of death and have had a similar problem. To reset the video output hold the on/off switch and turn the power on - there wil will a double bleep. Keep holding the button until the ps3 turns off (light turns red) turn off power, turn on power and press on/off console should operate - keep repeating until you get output. Motherboard problem is yellow light of death and I fix this for £40.
By the way biggest cause of YLOD is CODMW2 so be warned - every one that I fix has this disk in!!!!
I'll be fine then :-/ - Uncharted 2 lives in ours
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I am repairing ps3 with the yellow light of death and have had a similar problem. To reset the video output hold the on/off switch and turn the power on - there wil will a double bleep. Keep holding the button until the ps3 turns off (light turns red) turn off power, turn on power and press on/off console should operate - keep repeating until you get output. Motherboard problem is yellow light of death and I fix this for £40.
By the way biggest cause of YLOD is CODMW2 so be warned - every one that I fix has this disk in!!!!
I suspect thats because its the game of the moment lol
Do you have full surface mount re-flow repair capability or just applying the shim/heatsink bodge workaround?
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I am repairing ps3 with the yellow light of death and have had a similar problem. To reset the video output hold the on/off switch and turn the power on - there wil will a double bleep. Keep holding the button until the ps3 turns off (light turns red) turn off power, turn on power and press on/off console should operate - keep repeating until you get output. Motherboard problem is yellow light of death and I fix this for £40.
By the way biggest cause of YLOD is CODMW2 so be warned - every one that I fix has this disk in!!!!
I suspect thats because its the game of the moment lol
Do you have full surface mount re-flow repair capability or just applying the shim/heatsink bodge workaround?
Is this just a 60gb (mk1) problem or are all affected?
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From what i was told yesterday..It looks like Ps3`s are starting to become as unreliable as the xbox`s this guys seen a marked increase in the failure rate of all types of ps3..... :-X
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Just applying more heat transfer paste does not work - you have to reflow the solder on the processors.
From what I have learnt lead-free solder dries out and cracks at sustained high temperatures just below its melting point.
PS3's have been around for a little over 2 years. In that time bigger games have been written such as CODMW2 that stretch the capabilities of the processors making them run very hot - a bit like overclocking a computer - given the age and use of the machines this is leading to a growing number of consoles failing with ylod.
The same thing seems to happen with older plasma tv's - just look on e-bay at all the faulty ones.
Whether it is directly attributable to the manufacturers, the games writers or just lead-free solder.....but addictive games mean more people play them for longer sessions generating more heat and drying out the solder!!
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ps it's affecting 40, 60 and 80gig machines - all the older ones that are getting constant use - newer ones are still under warranty so if there is a problem it goes unnoticed as Sony replace them.
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How old is the PS3? If you have the original bill of sale (big if i know) and it was bought at currys or dixons and it was less than 3 years ago, go in with the receipt and details and the console, kick up a massive stink, say you're not budging until they sort it out and they should give you another one free of charge.
done this myself a few times and it works. just don't accept no for an answer. or if it's under 3 years old and want a foc repair, call 0844 561 4000, option 1 will stick u a repair warranty for about 4 quid a month.
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From what I have learnt lead-free solder dries out and cracks at sustained high temperatures just below its melting point.
Nah, nothing of the sort, lead free solder has actualy been in use in some applications for years. t is no worse than leaded solder in fact the only major difference is that it requires around an extra 10-15degC on the re-flow cycle to get the solder to fully wet.
The biggest problem these units have is poor design, compromised PCB lands, poor mechancial support etc. The solder is not to blame (having been very invovled in Rohs6 investigations), there may even be some process issues, again due to poor design....or even PCB contruction/design.
PS3's have been around for a little over 2 years. In that time bigger games have been written such as CODMW2 that stretch the capabilities of the processors making them run very hot - a bit like overclocking a computer - given the age and use of the machines this is leading to a growing number of consoles failing with ylod.
Processors dont increase in temperature the more you do with them in these applications, the internal clock speed is fixed and does not vary and the external bus speeds are the same. Modern RAM requires constant re-fresh cycles even if you do nothing so the micros run at pretty much top temperature no matter what the application during use.
In fact, due to the process size used, the archiecture and clock speeds used, many of these devices operate at 90% of the max power doing nothing but processing idles or wait states (I problem we find in the comms industry with nework processors!)
The only thing that I can think is that this particular game is being played for extended periods with the consoles in compromised installs which restricts the airflow.....so maybe a full saleable solution is to look at improving the cooling and ventilation (not easy without good baselined sim packages such as flowtherm)
Its certainly not related to the specifics of the games processing requirements though.
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I am repairing ps3 with the yellow light of death and have had a similar problem. To reset the video output hold the on/off switch and turn the power on - there wil will a double bleep. Keep holding the button until the ps3 turns off (light turns red) turn off power, turn on power and press on/off console should operate - keep repeating until you get output. Motherboard problem is yellow light of death and I fix this for £40.
By the way biggest cause of YLOD is CODMW2 so be warned - every one that I fix has this disk in!!!!
I'll be fine then :-/ - Uncharted 2 lives in ours
best game on the ps3 by a mile...finished it 3 weeks ago.
:y
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From what I have learnt lead-free solder dries out and cracks at sustained high temperatures just below its melting point.
Nah, nothing of the sort, lead free solder has actualy been in use in some applications for years. t is no worse than leaded solder in fact the only major difference is that it requires around an extra 10-15degC on the re-flow cycle to get the solder to fully wet.
The biggest problem these units have is poor design, compromised PCB lands, poor mechancial support etc. The solder is not to blame (having been very invovled in Rohs6 investigations), there may even be some process issues, again due to poor design....or even PCB contruction/design.
PS3's have been around for a little over 2 years. In that time bigger games have been written such as CODMW2 that stretch the capabilities of the processors making them run very hot - a bit like overclocking a computer - given the age and use of the machines this is leading to a growing number of consoles failing with ylod.
Processors dont increase in temperature the more you do with them in these applications, the internal clock speed is fixed and does not vary and the external bus speeds are the same. Modern RAM requires constant re-fresh cycles even if you do nothing so the micros run at pretty much top temperature no matter what the application during use.
In fact, due to the process size used, the archiecture and clock speeds used, many of these devices operate at 90% of the max power doing nothing but processing idles or wait states (I problem we find in the comms industry with nework processors!)
The only thing that I can think is that this particular game is being played for extended periods with the consoles in compromised installs which restricts the airflow.....so maybe a full saleable solution is to look at improving the cooling and ventilation (not easy without good baselined sim packages such as flowtherm)
Its certainly not related to the specifics of the games processing requirements though.
My fiancee's son was playing COD4 for hours and hours, day after day and did not have a problem, he started playing MW2 and got ylod very quickly. I reflowed the machine and he started playing MW2 again and within a month got ylod again. I reflowed it again and told him to go back down to COD4 and six weeks on there isn't a problem.
I was on a gaming repair blog site and asked a major repairer in the US about causes of ylod and rrod(x-box) and his response was "Greenpeace made us adopt lead-free solder and that gets more dry joints than leaded" I do agree though that the design of PS3's is not good when you look at air-flow, I tend to modify the casings with a drill and fit an external clip-on fan to push more air in.
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I thought leaded solder was more ductile, because of the lead, so would stretch a bit when the thermal stresses set in, eg the video BGA is getting hot and expanding but the PCB below isn't. The commonly used replacement, SAC, is a much more brittle substance and so joints fracture with the repeated expansion/contraction. I have started using SN100C which has germanium added, and is much more like SN/PB in its characteristics.
Ken
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I am repairing ps3 with the yellow light of death and have had a similar problem. To reset the video output hold the on/off switch and turn the power on - there wil will a double bleep. Keep holding the button until the ps3 turns off (light turns red) turn off power, turn on power and press on/off console should operate - keep repeating until you get output. Motherboard problem is yellow light of death and I fix this for £40.
By the way biggest cause of YLOD is CODMW2 so be warned - every one that I fix has this disk in!!!!
I'll be fine then :-/ - Uncharted 2 lives in ours
best game on the ps3 by a mile...finished it 3 weeks ago.
:y
Finished it last year on normal, half way through on hard, and online multiplayer a lot, why don't you have a go?
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From what I have learnt lead-free solder dries out and cracks at sustained high temperatures just below its melting point.
Nah, nothing of the sort, lead free solder has actualy been in use in some applications for years. t is no worse than leaded solder in fact the only major difference is that it requires around an extra 10-15degC on the re-flow cycle to get the solder to fully wet.
The biggest problem these units have is poor design, compromised PCB lands, poor mechancial support etc. The solder is not to blame (having been very invovled in Rohs6 investigations), there may even be some process issues, again due to poor design....or even PCB contruction/design.
PS3's have been around for a little over 2 years. In that time bigger games have been written such as CODMW2 that stretch the capabilities of the processors making them run very hot - a bit like overclocking a computer - given the age and use of the machines this is leading to a growing number of consoles failing with ylod.
Processors dont increase in temperature the more you do with them in these applications, the internal clock speed is fixed and does not vary and the external bus speeds are the same. Modern RAM requires constant re-fresh cycles even if you do nothing so the micros run at pretty much top temperature no matter what the application during use.
In fact, due to the process size used, the archiecture and clock speeds used, many of these devices operate at 90% of the max power doing nothing but processing idles or wait states (I problem we find in the comms industry with nework processors!)
The only thing that I can think is that this particular game is being played for extended periods with the consoles in compromised installs which restricts the airflow.....so maybe a full saleable solution is to look at improving the cooling and ventilation (not easy without good baselined sim packages such as flowtherm)
Its certainly not related to the specifics of the games processing requirements though.
The game does vary what temperature the console runs at. Uncharted 2 does get the fan going unlike any other game we have
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Ok its all good and working again..... :)
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I am repairing ps3 with the yellow light of death and have had a similar problem. To reset the video output hold the on/off switch and turn the power on - there wil will a double bleep. Keep holding the button until the ps3 turns off (light turns red) turn off power, turn on power and press on/off console should operate - keep repeating until you get output. Motherboard problem is yellow light of death and I fix this for £40.
By the way biggest cause of YLOD is CODMW2 so be warned - every one that I fix has this disk in!!!!
I suspect thats because its the game of the moment lol
Do you have full surface mount re-flow repair capability or just applying the shim/heatsink bodge workaround?
What do you mean by this mark..
Are you talking about the heating up of the solder joints back to liquid.
Sorry to drag old threads up :-[ :-[
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Don't know anything about PS3's but I know that lead free solder does dry out and peal away from the pcb's with persistent heat soak cycles.
I've got the same problem on my Cyrus 2 amplifier >:(
Turning all solder joints to liquid and letting them cool do the trick ;)
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As above, the issue with lead free solder is not the solder, its the process, we proved this through years of trials and tests in order to get a process which met the required 15 year life requirements.
A way of getting a repair is to reflow the solder
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Cough :D,bit dusty this one ::) ;D ;D
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ok cheers mark :y
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As above, the issue with lead free solder is not the solder, its the process, we proved this through years of trials and tests in order to get a process which met the required 15 year life requirements.
A way of getting a repair is to reflow the solder
Just gotto have ago at doing one of these plastic sony junky things (got 1 here) YLOD that makes it scrap
Option (1 pic) i guess thats the proper way :-\
Option (2 pic) Sounds best option to me :-\
Option (3 pic) Too random heat guessing,and random heat spots on a PCB :-\
Insulate vulnerable components...mount it flat.....reflux with (no clean flux and go for the bake)
If all fails. bin it ;D ;D ;D ;D nothing lost ;
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/70807181/heat1.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/70807181/heat2.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/70807181/heat3.jpg)
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Try this way
(http://microtorches.ayay.com/Soldering%20Iron%20solder.jpg)
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Try this way
(http://microtorches.ayay.com/Soldering%20Iron%20solder.jpg)
;D ;D ;D ;D i wish
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Why did Bigtimecube dig up a 3year old thread ??? Dont understand ??? ???