Omega Owners Forum

Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Debs. on 10 November 2011, 16:33:38

Title: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 10 November 2011, 16:33:38
Further to the pup-mobile`s ongoing idle-stalling issues; I`ve sourced a replacement (known good) ECU thermo-sender and plan on swapping it this weekend.
I know it`s located on the aft-side of the coolant-bridge, so here`s the question:

What has to come off the engine to do the job?......I`m thinking: bagpipes and the IAV, plenum w/o EGR and breather hoses, throttle plate and cable brkts......but, can I get away without removing the intake risers?


Whilst I`m at it, I intend to blank off the EGR feed to the plenum with a bit of cut-to-fit copper sheet (actually, an opened-out bit of annealed 22mm C/H pipe.).

If this doesn`t work and stop the constant stalling at junctions (and the 'bobbing' idle)......I`m all out of ideas.  :'(







Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: amba on 10 November 2011, 16:43:34
Just undo the plenum and upturn it to rest on the coolant reservoir..saves removing throttle cable and cruise.

Only need to undo the top part of the "bagpipes " at the large jubilee clips and fold them around to face the grille.

Fuel rail comes off aswell but you should have sufficient access to the coolant bridge area without removing the bottom "sandwich" plate.May be  easier with the coolant bridge removed but would require the sensor undoing first as you would have only limited ability to get pressure on the spanner..in which case would need new doughty seals to coolant bridge.

Shouldn,t provide you with any nasty surprises as just unbolting bits and replacing again as is some many jobs on these V6,s. :y
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: JamesV6CDX on 10 November 2011, 16:44:16
Plenum, inlet / inlet bridge and it's there at the back :y

Sorry Debs as I don't know the history, but stalling - I'm presuming you have no code 19? :y
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 10 November 2011, 16:53:54
Plenum, inlet / inlet bridge and it's there at the back :y

Sorry Debs as I don't know the history, but stalling - I'm presuming you have no code 19? :y

Hiya James, so far:

It`s had a new (VX) crank-sensor
Replacement IAV (known good)
Replacement MAF (ditto)
New plugs/leads
Thorough clean of throttle plates/breathers and a check for any vacuum leaks.


.....and still, she stalls at most junctions and the tacho. 'bobs'. :-\
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Marks DTM Calib on 10 November 2011, 17:00:26
Think I PM'd Pete on this, we need to be absolutley certain that there are no air leaks.

As for the sensor, follow the guide for changing the cam cover gaskets......

Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Jimbob on 10 November 2011, 17:03:22
weve sprayed carb cleaner all round, no change in engine noise.....livedata snapshot follows....
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Jimbob on 10 November 2011, 17:06:44
heres the live data...Before some parts replaced (Maf & ICV)

Identifier   0D
Battery Voltage   13.8 V
Immobiliser Signal   Received
Immobiliser   Active
TPS Signal (Throttle Position Sensor)   0.51 V
Simulated Idle Position   Active
Simulated Full Load Switch   Inactive
Mass Air Flow Sensor   0.64 V
Mass Air Flow Sensor   10 kg/h
Coolant Temperature   1.40 V
Coolant Temperature   74 °C
Intake Air Temperature   3.08 V
Intake Air Temperature   31 °C
Engine Type   6 Cylinder
Transmission Coding   Automatic Transmission
Park/Neutral Switch   P - N  0V
A/C Information Switch (Air Conditioning)   Inactive 0V
A/C Compressor Switch (Air Conditioning)   Inactive 0V
Telltale (Check Light)   Off 12V
Fuel Pump Relay   Active 0V
Spark Angle before TDC (Top Dead Centre)   4 °CA
Ignition Coil Cyl. 1+4 (Cylinder)   Load
Ignition Coil Cyl. 2+5   Load
Ignition Coil Cyl. 3+6 (Cylinder)   Load
Knock Signal   Inactive
Knock Retard   0 °CA
Secondary Air Pump Relay   Inactive 12V
EGR Valve (Exhaust-Gas Recirculation)   Inactive
EGR Position Feedback (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)   0.68 V
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve   0%
O2 Sensor 1   702 mV
O2 Sensor 2   537 mV
O2 Sensor Loop 1   Closed
O2 Sensor Loop 2   Closed
Air/Fuel Ratio 1   Lean
Air/Fuel Ratio 2   Rich
O2-Loop 1 Integrator   140 Steps
O2-Loop 2 Integrator   123
O2-Loop 1 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map)   198 Steps
O2-Loop 2 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map)   0 Steps
O2-Loop 1 BLM Partial Load (Block Learn Map)   116 Steps
O2-Loop 2 BLM Partial Load(Block Learn Map)   122 Steps
Hall Sensor   Active
Engine Speed Pulse   Active
Engine Speed   612 RPM
Idle Air Control   155 Steps
IAC Integrator (Idle Air Control)   126 Steps
IAC Adaptation Slope (Idle Air Control)   148 Steps
IAC Block Learn (Idle Air Control)   124 Steps
Desired Idle Air   8 kg/h
Actual Value Idle Air   8 kg/h
Desired Engine Idle Speed   600 RPM
Injection Pulse   2.9 ms
Engine Load Signal   0.9 ms
TPS Load Signal (Throttle Position Sensor)   0%
Vehicle Speed Pulse   Not Received 12V
Vehicle Speed   0 km/h
Intake Manifold Valve 1   Inactive 12V
Intake Manifold Valve 2   Inactive 12V
Torque Control   Inactive
A/C Cutoff Relay (Air Conditioning)   Inactive 12V
Diagnostic Request   Inactive 5V
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 10 November 2011, 17:12:53
[Harry Hill]

"Ljay or Debs. live data......

Which is better?....Hmmmmm? ::)

......Fight!"
;D

[/Harry Hill]

Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: albitz on 10 November 2011, 17:15:21
Not sure if the sensor can be removed with the coolant bridge in place.access is prettyn tight for a 199mm open end spanner.
Anyone else know ? Might be best to get a set of dwty washers for the bridge before starting the job. :-\
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: amba on 10 November 2011, 17:25:29
Thats 1 rather big spanner you need then Albs ;D ;D ;D.

From my last ventures down the back of the engine  :o I seem to recall space is a tad tight :( ...my choice would be to remove the entire bridge and disconnect the 2 water pipes.

Place bridge in a vice or suitable "holding implement"and then undo the sensor away from the car.Clean up and replace ,naturally replacing the 4 doughty washers.Sure that would be the best solution. :y
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: RobG on 10 November 2011, 17:28:54
Not sure if the sensor can be removed with the coolant bridge in place.access is prettyn tight for a 199mm open end spanner.
Anyone else know ? Might be best to get a set of dwty washers for the bridge before starting the job. :-\
Even with a "modify" button, you still can`t get it right :P :P ;D
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Jimbob on 10 November 2011, 17:31:21
[Harry Hill]

"Ljay or Debs. live data......

Which is better?....Hmmmmm? ::)

......Fight!"
;D

[/Harry Hill]



lol I changed it to yours only for clarity...heres the one with both


LJAY 3.0     DEBS 2.5

Identifier   1D   0D
Battery Voltage   14.3 V   13.8 V
Immobiliser Signal   Received   Received
Immobiliser   Active   Active
TPS Signal (Throttle Position Sensor)   0.45 V   0.51 V
Simulated Idle Position   Active   Active
Simulated Full Load Switch   Inactive   Inactive
Mass Air Flow Sensor   1.31 V   0.64 V
Mass Air Flow Sensor   40 kg/h   10 kg/h
Coolant Temperature   3.41 V   1.40 V
Coolant Temperature   23 °C   74 °C
Intake Air Temperature   3.82 V   3.08 V
Intake Air Temperature   13 °C   31 °C
Engine Type   6 Cylinder   6 Cylinder
Transmission Coding   Manual Transmission   Automatic Transmission
Park/Neutral Switch   P - N  0V   P - N  0V
A/C Information Switch (Air Conditioning)   Active 12V   Inactive 0V
A/C Compressor Switch (Air Conditioning)   Inactive 0V   Inactive 0V
Telltale (Check Light)   Off 12V   Off 12V
Fuel Pump Relay   Active 0V   Active 0V
Spark Angle before TDC (Top Dead Centre)   -2 °CA   4 °CA
Ignition Coil Cyl. 1+4 (Cylinder)   Spark   Load
Ignition Coil Cyl. 2+5   Load   Load
Ignition Coil Cyl. 3+6 (Cylinder)   Load   Load
Knock Signal   Inactive   Inactive
Knock Retard   0 °CA   0 °CA
Secondary Air Pump Relay   Inactive 12V   Inactive 12V
EGR Valve (Exhaust-Gas Recirculation)   Inactive   Inactive
EGR Position Feedback (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)   0.76 V   0.68 V
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve   0%   0%
O2 Sensor 1   556 mV   702 mV
O2 Sensor 2   702 mV   537 mV
O2 Sensor Loop 1   Open   Closed
O2 Sensor Loop 2   Open   Closed
Air/Fuel Ratio 1   Rich   Lean
Air/Fuel Ratio 2   Rich   Rich
O2-Loop 1 Integrator   128 Steps   140 Steps
O2-Loop 2 Integrator   128   123
O2-Loop 1 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map)   255 Steps   198 Steps
O2-Loop 2 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map)   21 Steps   0 Steps
O2-Loop 1 BLM Partial Load (Block Learn Map)   129 Steps   116 Steps
O2-Loop 2 BLM Partial Load(Block Learn Map)   129 Steps   122 Steps
Hall Sensor   Inactive   Active
Engine Speed Pulse   Active   Active
Engine Speed   1.346 RPM   612 RPM
Idle Air Control   134 Steps   155 Steps
IAC Integrator (Idle Air Control)   120 Steps   126 Steps
IAC Adaptation Slope (Idle Air Control)   122 Steps   148 Steps
IAC Block Learn (Idle Air Control)   124 Steps   124 Steps
Desired Idle Air   34 kg/h   8 kg/h
Actual Value Idle Air   33 kg/h   8 kg/h
Desired Engine Idle Speed   1.300 RPM   600 RPM
Injection Pulse   4.7 ms   2.9 ms
Engine Load Signal   1.7 ms   0.9 ms
TPS Load Signal (Throttle Position Sensor)   0%   0%
Vehicle Speed Pulse   Not Received 12V   Not Received 12V
Vehicle Speed   0 km/h   0 km/h
Intake Manifold Valve 1   Inactive 12V   Inactive 12V
Intake Manifold Valve 2   Inactive 12V   Inactive 12V
Torque Control   Inactive   Inactive
A/C Cutoff Relay (Air Conditioning)   Active 0V   Inactive 12V
Diagnostic Request   Inactive 5V   Inactive 5V
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: albitz on 10 November 2011, 17:36:49
Not sure if the sensor can be removed with the coolant bridge in place.access is pretty tight for a 19mm open end spanner.
Anyone else know ? Might be best to get a set of dowty washers for the bridge before starting the job. :-\

 :-[ ::)..............better ?  :P
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: RobG on 10 November 2011, 17:43:14
Not sure if the sensor can be removed with the coolant bridge in place.access is pretty tight for a 19mm open end spanner.
Anyone else know ? Might be best to get a set of dowty washers for the bridge before starting the job. :-\

 :-[ ::)..............better ?  :P
Capital after a "full stop" ;D
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 10 November 2011, 17:43:48
From my last ventures down the back of the engine  :o I seem to recall space is a tad tight :( ...my choice would be to remove the entire bridge and disconnect the 2 water pipes.

Yikes! :o

.......confidence in my ability to tackle this, is ebbing-away rapidly! :-[
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: tigers_gonads on 10 November 2011, 17:46:30
I would use a bit of steel plate for blanking the egr valve off Debs.

Copper might be a little weak and get a bit hot on a long run  :-\
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: amba on 10 November 2011, 17:57:57
Debs.

I am sure you will be fine with it :y
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Marks DTM Calib on 11 November 2011, 12:20:39
weve sprayed carb cleaner all round, no change in engine noise.....livedata snapshot follows....

Not actualy that great a test due to the various 'drafts' around the engine, would be interesting to see an idel vac reading

Its the base of the large breatehr that fails adn the brake servo pipe wear fault you know about.
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Marks DTM Calib on 11 November 2011, 12:24:38
Right, no obvious issue with the CTS on those data results and MAF looks fine

Also, has anybody cleaned the throttle body and ensured that the throttle butterflies are closing fully?
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 11 November 2011, 12:36:45
has anybody cleaned the throttle body and ensured that the throttle butterflies are closing fully?

Yes Sir.....Me, Sir! ;)

They were EXTREMELY dirty and took much carb-cleaner and toothbrushing to get through the sooty/sticky-black goo......which is why I thought that I should now blank the EGR feed too. :-\
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Marks DTM Calib on 11 November 2011, 12:44:45
The goo comes from the breathers, the EGR vents onto the inlet side of the throttles and hence to a vac so wont have a major impact on the butterflies.

Key thing is, do the throttle valves fully close (as they should) without sticking (let them close to hard an they bind on the throttle barrel).

My concern is that we may have a scenario where the butterflies are not fully closing (possibly due to a past bodge by a former owner), this causes the idle valve to work at one end of its operating capability and hence massively increases its potential to 'stick'.

Hence a 'known good' valve is now operting at a different range on this engine setup.

As a tip, you can leave those idle valves full of carb cleaner and work the flap back and forth a load of times and you get stacks of rubbish and muck out of them still
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: ngrainqey on 12 November 2011, 09:21:22
i've got one or two sets of throttle butterflies knocking about in my garage if anybody needs one?
..or should i horde them for myself when i get another omega   :D ;D
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 19 November 2011, 16:11:03
Update on the pup-mobile`s low/no idle issues:
My nephew and I managed to swap-out the ECU coolant sensor today (low-profile ratchet ring-spanner loosened/tightened the sensor)......we also replaced the upper-plenum and breather O-rings (just in case of a contributory vacuum issue).

The idle now seems steady and predictable and after several miles on a test drive in stop/go traffic, the engine didn`t stall once (having stopped at every junction during a previous journey a few days ago)

The real test will be a cold start and a 'stop-go' drive from a fully-cold engine (tomorrow morning)....if all`s well on that, then the pup-mobile is fixed!
Keep your finger`s crossed! :)

Many thanks to OOF members for your advice, help and support with these problems. :y....(You know whom you are!) ;)
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: TheBoy on 19 November 2011, 16:23:43
heres the live data...Before some parts replaced (Maf & ICV)

Identifier   0D
Battery Voltage   13.8 V
Immobiliser Signal   Received
Immobiliser   Active
TPS Signal (Throttle Position Sensor)   0.51 V
Simulated Idle Position   Active
Simulated Full Load Switch   Inactive
Mass Air Flow Sensor   0.64 V
Mass Air Flow Sensor   10 kg/h
Coolant Temperature   1.40 V
Coolant Temperature   74 °C
Intake Air Temperature   3.08 V
Intake Air Temperature   31 °C
Engine Type   6 Cylinder
Transmission Coding   Automatic Transmission
Park/Neutral Switch   P - N  0V
A/C Information Switch (Air Conditioning)   Inactive 0V
A/C Compressor Switch (Air Conditioning)   Inactive 0V
Telltale (Check Light)   Off 12V
Fuel Pump Relay   Active 0V
Spark Angle before TDC (Top Dead Centre)   4 °CA
Ignition Coil Cyl. 1+4 (Cylinder)   Load
Ignition Coil Cyl. 2+5   Load
Ignition Coil Cyl. 3+6 (Cylinder)   Load
Knock Signal   Inactive
Knock Retard   0 °CA
Secondary Air Pump Relay   Inactive 12V
EGR Valve (Exhaust-Gas Recirculation)   Inactive
EGR Position Feedback (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)   0.68 V
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve   0%
O2 Sensor 1   702 mV
O2 Sensor 2   537 mV
O2 Sensor Loop 1   Closed
O2 Sensor Loop 2   Closed
Air/Fuel Ratio 1   Lean
Air/Fuel Ratio 2   Rich
O2-Loop 1 Integrator   140 Steps
O2-Loop 2 Integrator   123
O2-Loop 1 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map)   198 Steps
O2-Loop 2 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map)   0 Steps

O2-Loop 1 BLM Partial Load (Block Learn Map)   116 Steps
O2-Loop 2 BLM Partial Load(Block Learn Map)   122 Steps
Hall Sensor   Active
Engine Speed Pulse   Active
Engine Speed   612 RPM
Idle Air Control   155 Steps
IAC Integrator (Idle Air Control)   126 Steps
IAC Adaptation Slope (Idle Air Control)   148 Steps
IAC Block Learn (Idle Air Control)   124 Steps
Desired Idle Air   8 kg/h
Actual Value Idle Air   8 kg/h
Desired Engine Idle Speed   600 RPM
Injection Pulse   2.9 ms
Engine Load Signal   0.9 ms
TPS Load Signal (Throttle Position Sensor)   0%
Vehicle Speed Pulse   Not Received 12V
Vehicle Speed   0 km/h
Intake Manifold Valve 1   Inactive 12V
Intake Manifold Valve 2   Inactive 12V
Torque Control   Inactive
A/C Cutoff Relay (Air Conditioning)   Inactive 12V
Diagnostic Request   Inactive 5V

Assuming your device isn't lying (Ljays showing similar - so immediately suspicious of reader), you need to ask why drivers back is naturally lean and passenger bank is naturally too rich (and seeing as hit the end stop, probably still is).

I am suspicious of the reader though
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: TheBoy on 19 November 2011, 16:24:41
What happens if you reset trims? In my experience, Motronnic 2.8.x doesn't recover itself if a trim hits the end stop.
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Jimbob on 19 November 2011, 16:40:21
Ill reset em at the meet next week :y

Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Jimbob on 19 November 2011, 16:40:52
forgot to say well done on the fix, and hopefully sorted now :y
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 19 November 2011, 16:47:01
Ill reset em at the meet next week :y

 8) Thankyou! :y
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 20 November 2011, 14:51:17
O2-Loop 1 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map)   198 Steps
O2-Loop 2 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map)   0 Steps


What happens if you reset trims? In my experience, Motronnic 2.8.x doesn't recover itself if a trim hits the end stop.

Ok....from a cold start this a.m: at the first roundabout, the RPM started to 'flick' (rapidly, well above, then back down to idle) and the engine surged noticeably, but adding any amount of accelerator and the surging went away and 'driveability' seemed 100% .....mercifully, there`s been no actual stalling approaching/during idle today.
When the engine became fully warm (a couple of miles into the journey), the 'bouncing' idling RPM went away!?!? ???

Please pardon my complete lack of understanding of 'fuel trim'; is the unbalanced nature of the live-data figures (highlighted) likely to cause idle surging (when cold)? :-\

Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: TheBoy on 20 November 2011, 18:26:16
O2-Loop 1 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map)   198 Steps
O2-Loop 2 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map)   0 Steps


What happens if you reset trims? In my experience, Motronnic 2.8.x doesn't recover itself if a trim hits the end stop.

Ok....from a cold start this a.m: at the first roundabout, the RPM started to 'flick' (rapidly, well above, then back down to idle) and the engine surged noticeably, but adding any amount of accelerator and the surging went away and 'driveability' seemed 100% .....mercifully, there`s been no actual stalling approaching/during idle today.
When the engine became fully warm (a couple of miles into the journey), the 'bouncing' idling RPM went away!?!? ???

Please pardon my complete lack of understanding of 'fuel trim'; is the unbalanced nature of the live-data figures (highlighted) likely to cause idle surging (when cold)? :-\
Trim is the amount of variation from 'normal' that the ECU applies based on feedback from precat lamdas.  Being a twin bank engine, 2 seperate trim settings.

On the Motronic, trim settings are 0 to 255, with 'normal' being 127.

If a trim is higher than 127, its detected that bank is lean, and is richening up. Lower, its rich, so leaning off.


The Motronic 2.8.x has a pair of trim settings per bank, one of these is purely for idle, and its these that are screwy on yours.


Hope that helps with your fault finding.  Probably first thing is to reset them, and watch how they go.  Up to 15 either side of normal is OKish, if no symptoms.
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Jimbob on 20 November 2011, 20:12:00
Debs, have you a laptop with a 'real' serial port?
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 20 November 2011, 20:44:56
Debs, have you a laptop with a 'real' serial port?

Sadly not.......it`s just VGA and USB. :-[

'Idle' wondering: would a long period of battery disconnection, reset the trims?.......Don`t worry if not, I can easily wait `till the meet for your 'OOFicial' analysis! ;)
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Jimbob on 21 November 2011, 08:32:09
Some bits reset, not sure if its those....still only a few days off.

Ill see if I can get you a way of keeping an eye on them :y
May have an old device I can make work.....never been easy without serial though.
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Marks DTM Calib on 21 November 2011, 09:00:47
Have the throttle butterflies been checked and the idle valve been given a real good soak and clean yet?
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 21 November 2011, 09:51:02
Have the throttle butterflies been checked and the idle valve been given a real good soak and clean yet?

 :y Yes, thoroughly soaked the idle valve..... and used a can of carb-cleaner (w/tooth-brush) to clean the butterflies/throttle-body; they were secure on the cross shaft, closed in synchrony and tightly held carb-cleaning fluid in the vestibule fluid when closed.

.....on a cold/cool engine; when the idle is 'flicking' (sorry, can`t think of another way of describing it; other than by what the tacho-needle is registering): RPM is first, well-above, then back down to the expected idle {for that engine temperature}, I`m surprised at how fast the engine revs are changing at that time, in fact, I`d struggle to replicate such rapidity of an RPM change using the pedal. :-\

Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: TheBoy on 21 November 2011, 09:52:33
'flicking'
Hunting?
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 21 November 2011, 09:56:40
'flicking'
Hunting?

 :-\ I`d have thought that hunting would be a more leisurely change of RPM around a fixed point....this is a very rapid variation. ;)
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Marks DTM Calib on 21 November 2011, 10:37:31
When you soaked the idle valve, did you also use a screwdriver (carefuly) to actuate the butterfly plenty of times?

A small artists paint brush is also very good for tickling the dirty bits with.  ;D
Title: Re: Changing 2.5 V6 ECU temp-sender?
Post by: Debs. on 21 November 2011, 10:52:31
When you soaked the idle valve, did you also use a screwdriver (carefuly) to actuate the butterfly plenty of times?

A small artists paint brush is also very good for tickling the dirty bits with.  ;D

 :o Ooooh, matron! ;D