16
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Wanted please radiator for 3.0 a/c auto
« on: 17 August 2014, 19:27:31 »
Mini facelift (1998) if it makes any difference.
Cheers
Ian
Cheers
Ian
- 04 June 2024, 22:46:56
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17
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Fuse 12 / Rear reading lamps
« on: 08 June 2010, 22:47:07 »
These may or may not be connected..
When I got in the car this evening, it started fine, but no life from the instrument panel, climate panel, drivers seat, main interior light, boot light.. Turns out fuse 12 was blown. Being an optimist I replaced it (ignition off, everything switched off apart from the drivers door was open) - there was a decent flash and it blew again.
As I was scratching my head, I noticed that the rear passenger reading light (the one near the grab handle) was glowing - as if on half power. On checking, both rear doors' lights are behaving strangely. With the switch in the centre position, they should be off permanently according to the handbook. What actually happens is with the rear door shut, both the reading light and the kerb light 'glow'. When the door is opened, the reading light goes out and the kerb light goes to full brilliance. Both doors behave the same way. With the switch either to the front (should be door controlled) or rear (should be on permanently), they never come on.
I think there must be a short/open somewhere, but whether this is related to the fuse 12 issue (which is the biggy - the car runs fine, but with no instruments its undrivable) I don't know.
I have a limited supply of 20A fuses but will try removing all the rear bulbs - I don't use them, so if that is a quick fix, that's fine. Somehow I doubt it though.
Any other thoughts appreciated
(The car has not been worked on recently or significantly at all. Its a 98 Elite saloon)
When I got in the car this evening, it started fine, but no life from the instrument panel, climate panel, drivers seat, main interior light, boot light.. Turns out fuse 12 was blown. Being an optimist I replaced it (ignition off, everything switched off apart from the drivers door was open) - there was a decent flash and it blew again.
As I was scratching my head, I noticed that the rear passenger reading light (the one near the grab handle) was glowing - as if on half power. On checking, both rear doors' lights are behaving strangely. With the switch in the centre position, they should be off permanently according to the handbook. What actually happens is with the rear door shut, both the reading light and the kerb light 'glow'. When the door is opened, the reading light goes out and the kerb light goes to full brilliance. Both doors behave the same way. With the switch either to the front (should be door controlled) or rear (should be on permanently), they never come on.
I think there must be a short/open somewhere, but whether this is related to the fuse 12 issue (which is the biggy - the car runs fine, but with no instruments its undrivable) I don't know.
I have a limited supply of 20A fuses but will try removing all the rear bulbs - I don't use them, so if that is a quick fix, that's fine. Somehow I doubt it though.
Any other thoughts appreciated
(The car has not been worked on recently or significantly at all. Its a 98 Elite saloon)
18
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Aerial
« on: 22 December 2008, 17:14:56 »
The aerial on my 3.2 is the type that points up vertically from the roof in order to avoid fouling the tail gate spoiler.
Does anyone know if it is possible to replace this with a stubby type? (reason being the currrent one fouls on my garage door.)
Cheers,
Ian
Does anyone know if it is possible to replace this with a stubby type? (reason being the currrent one fouls on my garage door.)
Cheers,
Ian
19
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Sat Nav drops out
« on: 12 October 2008, 22:51:46 »
I set up my Sat Nav (NCDC 2013) with an address, it works out the route and starts directing. All ok.
Then 30 seconds later the radio unit appears to momentarily lose all power (the lights go out for a fraction of a second) and the navigation becomes inactive.
I have not noticed the radio lose power (or reset?) like that other than when I have just programmed the satnav.
Any ideas what's going on?
Then 30 seconds later the radio unit appears to momentarily lose all power (the lights go out for a fraction of a second) and the navigation becomes inactive.
I have not noticed the radio lose power (or reset?) like that other than when I have just programmed the satnav.
Any ideas what's going on?
20
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Panel message
« on: 09 June 2008, 12:28:41 »
I got a 'Panel' message on the MID that I haven't seen before when the radio is switched on.
It turns out that Mrs ian was driving the car, go annoyed with the radio so tried to switch it off without looking at it - so probably hit a few buttons at random.
I reenterred the security code which seems to have fixed it, but wondered if anyone knows what actually happened, or indeed if I have a radio on the way out.
Cheers
Ian
It turns out that Mrs ian was driving the car, go annoyed with the radio so tried to switch it off without looking at it - so probably hit a few buttons at random.
I reenterred the security code which seems to have fixed it, but wondered if anyone knows what actually happened, or indeed if I have a radio on the way out.
Cheers
Ian
21
Omega General Help / Brake pedal switch
« on: 03 March 2010, 15:45:32 »
Can someone tell me the part number for the brake pedal switch - the one that switches the brake lights and autobox interlock please?
Also if anyone has a pic/guide to replacement that would be much appreciated as from looking at various posts it appears access is difficult and there may be some disassembly needed.
Cheers,
Ian
Also if anyone has a pic/guide to replacement that would be much appreciated as from looking at various posts it appears access is difficult and there may be some disassembly needed.
Cheers,
Ian
22
Omega General Help / Auto box interlock
« on: 25 February 2010, 11:17:17 »
Seems to be playing up. (I'm talking about the function that requires pressure on the brake pedal in order to shift out of Park)
There is usually a click from the selector when the brake pedal is pressed - presumably the locking solenoid firing. This click doesn't always happen on mine. When it does I can move the selector as normal.
So is this likely to be a switch at the brake pedal end (where is it?) or a problem with the solenoid (again - how do you access that?)
Cheers,
Ian
There is usually a click from the selector when the brake pedal is pressed - presumably the locking solenoid firing. This click doesn't always happen on mine. When it does I can move the selector as normal.
So is this likely to be a switch at the brake pedal end (where is it?) or a problem with the solenoid (again - how do you access that?)
Cheers,
Ian
23
Omega General Help / Mig non start
« on: 10 February 2010, 11:57:21 »
No. 2 mig (3L mini f/l elite) wouldn't start this morning. Turned over fine but not a hint of firing.
It was running fine yesterday according to mrs ians.
I will do the paperclip test later, but anyone care to place a bet...?
I have never had a crankshaft sensor go on any of the 4 migs I've owned - maybe I'm overdue
It was running fine yesterday according to mrs ians.
I will do the paperclip test later, but anyone care to place a bet...?
I have never had a crankshaft sensor go on any of the 4 migs I've owned - maybe I'm overdue
24
Omega General Help / Rear shocks
« on: 12 January 2010, 13:58:46 »
I likely need to change the rear shocks on my old Elite to get it through the MOT. This car is just used as my mrs' runaround so we really have no need for self levelling.
If I install regular shocks (I'm looking at the Bilstein ones), I assume I need to disable the SL pump. Is there a convenient fuse to pull or connector to undo?
Cheers,
Ian
If I install regular shocks (I'm looking at the Bilstein ones), I assume I need to disable the SL pump. Is there a convenient fuse to pull or connector to undo?
Cheers,
Ian
25
Omega General Help / Wing Removal
« on: 14 November 2009, 17:09:14 »
Why I pick today to do my first car work in a while, god knows..
As far as I can see, I need to
-loosen sill cover to access the two bolts at the bottom
- remove single bolt at the top rear of the cill at wing mirror height
- remove bolts along the top and the bonnet strut and other gubbins
- remove trim below head lamp and remove bolts underneath
that all looks straightforward so far..
However there is a bolt at knee height on the rear of the wing. It looks like it is bolted from the inside of the wing -all I can see is a threaded end and a square flat bolt/washer type of affair (which I doubt I can get anything on to undo). How do I release that?
Then it looks like the inner wing liner has one plastic stud into the wing near the front. Do I just lever this out (will I break it?) or is there a knack?
Cheers
Ian
As far as I can see, I need to
-loosen sill cover to access the two bolts at the bottom
- remove single bolt at the top rear of the cill at wing mirror height
- remove bolts along the top and the bonnet strut and other gubbins
- remove trim below head lamp and remove bolts underneath
that all looks straightforward so far..
However there is a bolt at knee height on the rear of the wing. It looks like it is bolted from the inside of the wing -all I can see is a threaded end and a square flat bolt/washer type of affair (which I doubt I can get anything on to undo). How do I release that?
Then it looks like the inner wing liner has one plastic stud into the wing near the front. Do I just lever this out (will I break it?) or is there a knack?
Cheers
Ian
26
Omega General Help / Should I cut it?
« on: 31 January 2009, 12:56:20 »
I am on my second weekend trying to fit an Eternal exhaust to my estate. 
I think the rear pipe out of the centre o/side silencer is either too long, or not bent properly. If I mount the o/s centre section and back box, the back box is almost falling off the rubbers, and when I come to offer up the n/s section , it doesn't reach.
I'm tempted to cut 4cm or so off the os rear pipe, but obviously when I've done it, I can't stick it back later.
Its a shame as I know others have had good experience with these systems.
Any suggestions before I unearth the hacksaw..?
I think the rear pipe out of the centre o/side silencer is either too long, or not bent properly. If I mount the o/s centre section and back box, the back box is almost falling off the rubbers, and when I come to offer up the n/s section , it doesn't reach.
I'm tempted to cut 4cm or so off the os rear pipe, but obviously when I've done it, I can't stick it back later.
Its a shame as I know others have had good experience with these systems.
Any suggestions before I unearth the hacksaw..?
27
Omega General Help / Radiator flush
« on: 18 December 2008, 13:05:53 »
What is the most thorough means to flush the rad?
I have flushed with water with the rad in situ - ie drain through red tap, top up expansion tank, run a bit and repeat. The water runs clear - no crap whatsoever.
Is it worth removing the rad when I do my cambelt/waterpump and are there any potions worth using?
I have flushed with water with the rad in situ - ie drain through red tap, top up expansion tank, run a bit and repeat. The water runs clear - no crap whatsoever.
Is it worth removing the rad when I do my cambelt/waterpump and are there any potions worth using?
28
Omega General Help / Overheating
« on: 05 November 2008, 17:56:09 »
Right. I’m going to make a determined effort to sort out the overheating issue on my 3.0.
Thanks to TB and RichardA, what I know so far is that the instrument panel is configured correctly and that the fan system, switches, relays etc all come on when they should.
The symptoms show up in hot weather, especially in slow traffic, but it also runs hotter than it should at speed on the motorway. In traffic I have had the red light come on. On these 2 occassions I have stopped straight away and get the impression that the temp then drops quite quickly – on one occassion I stopped at traffic lights, turned ignition off, on again when lights went green and temp had dropped back to 97 or so from 100+
The stat appears to be closed from cold and temp rapidly climbs to 92 degree level just as it should. It stays there for a bit and then starts to rise again. Noticable most of the time, but only a real issue in very warm weather when it will start to push 100. Although I know for sure the fans come on, they don’t have the effect of rapidly reducing temp as they should.
My suspects:
- Radiator lost efficiency – this is my biggest suspect, backed up by the fans not having the effect they should.
- Stat opening but not fully
- Water pump failing
I am due to change cambelt (and water pump) soon and am considering removing the rad and reverse flushing while I’m at it (or should I bite the bullet and replace it?). I’m considering replacing the stat too to illiminate that but really would rather not – I don’t honestly think that’s the problem, and I know its a pain to do. I can’t see how the coolant pump could fail as its a relatively simple thing, but that will get changed with the belt.
Any thoughts, suggestions appreciated
Is it worth doing a flush with Forte or the like first? (I have flushed umteen times with water and it was running crystal clear)
Cheers,
Ian
Thanks to TB and RichardA, what I know so far is that the instrument panel is configured correctly and that the fan system, switches, relays etc all come on when they should.
The symptoms show up in hot weather, especially in slow traffic, but it also runs hotter than it should at speed on the motorway. In traffic I have had the red light come on. On these 2 occassions I have stopped straight away and get the impression that the temp then drops quite quickly – on one occassion I stopped at traffic lights, turned ignition off, on again when lights went green and temp had dropped back to 97 or so from 100+
The stat appears to be closed from cold and temp rapidly climbs to 92 degree level just as it should. It stays there for a bit and then starts to rise again. Noticable most of the time, but only a real issue in very warm weather when it will start to push 100. Although I know for sure the fans come on, they don’t have the effect of rapidly reducing temp as they should.
My suspects:
- Radiator lost efficiency – this is my biggest suspect, backed up by the fans not having the effect they should.
- Stat opening but not fully
- Water pump failing
I am due to change cambelt (and water pump) soon and am considering removing the rad and reverse flushing while I’m at it (or should I bite the bullet and replace it?). I’m considering replacing the stat too to illiminate that but really would rather not – I don’t honestly think that’s the problem, and I know its a pain to do. I can’t see how the coolant pump could fail as its a relatively simple thing, but that will get changed with the belt.
Any thoughts, suggestions appreciated
Is it worth doing a flush with Forte or the like first? (I have flushed umteen times with water and it was running crystal clear)
Cheers,
Ian
29
Omega General Help / Re: arsey question?
« on: 16 October 2008, 17:32:33 »
Sorry mate - don't know.
But why don't you put a title that gives some clue to the question? If everyone used cryptic titles like that the forum would be a nightmare, plus you might get more answers from people who have been there before..
But good luck - if it was nicked that is a right pain. I remember when it was all the rage amongst the hoody community to nick car badges.
But why don't you put a title that gives some clue to the question? If everyone used cryptic titles like that the forum would be a nightmare, plus you might get more answers from people who have been there before..
But good luck - if it was nicked that is a right pain. I remember when it was all the rage amongst the hoody community to nick car badges.
30
Omega General Help / Code 43 (0430)
« on: 12 October 2008, 22:39:06 »
My EML came on yesterday on my newly acquired 3.2 . Code is 0430.
I think this is the common (?) precat problem?
If so, I believe it is not to worry about, although I'm not really happy having a light on permanently (not to mention that if something else fails I won't be aware of it).
Can the code be reset (and how soon will it reappear?)
Short of a new precat or two, are there any solutions that have been proven?
Cheers,
Ian
. Code is 0430.I think this is the common (?) precat problem?
If so, I believe it is not to worry about, although I'm not really happy having a light on permanently (not to mention that if something else fails I won't be aware of it).
Can the code be reset (and how soon will it reappear?)
Short of a new precat or two, are there any solutions that have been proven?
Cheers,
Ian