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Messages - ricardo1500

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31
Omega General Help / Re: Torque setting??
« on: 05 April 2008, 09:07:22 »
Many thanks Amigo

32
Omega General Help / Torque setting??
« on: 05 April 2008, 08:42:46 »
Hi all
Yes I know its early but I want to finish this before it  snows...
can anyone tell me the torque setting for water pump bolts 2001 2.2 petrol??

33
Omega General Help / Re: 7 seat conversion
« on: 13 March 2008, 17:00:46 »
Ah well never mind dont blame the EU....if they hadn't done it then Captain Darling would have out lawed them (retrospectvly of course) in the next budget ;D

34
Omega General Help / Re: 7 seat conversion
« on: 13 March 2008, 16:10:51 »
I have just received the following reply from a lady at luxury7.co.uk

"sorry new regs from the EU  !!! no longer allow this conversion" :'(

Quite what this means regarding existing conversions or the fitting of

2nd hand ones I dont know but a set for my estate would mean I

could get rid of the wifes pesky Zafira and replace it with the XK8 I,ve

always wanted !!


35
Omega General Help / Re: 7 seat conversion
« on: 13 March 2008, 10:43:49 »

Have emailed these people....will let you know their response

http://www.luxury7.co.uk/

36
Omega General Help / Re: 7 seat conversion
« on: 12 March 2008, 19:32:17 »
Phil
Do you have the ebay link as I cant find it and may be intereted in bidding for it??


37
Omega General Help / Re: Self levelling HID headlamp warning
« on: 12 March 2008, 18:52:00 »
I had a similar problem last week......here is the link to the help and advice I got and the solution i found

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1205005309

good luck!!

38
Omega General Help / Re: Omega Haynes Manuals
« on: 19 February 2008, 18:44:31 »
When I last checked with Haynes, the Manual for the facelift was in the "under consideration" phase.

39
Omega General Help / Re: Power Sounder Alarm - can it be disabled?
« on: 27 September 2007, 08:50:09 »
Removing the power sounder may not be the answer....I did that when its internal batteries went low and now my horn doesnt sound either when the alarm goea off...only the hazards flash...so stick with the warranty idea and make them fix it...its down to them not you.

40
Omega General Help / Re: 4 cyl 2.2 nsy exhaust on start up ???
« on: 23 September 2007, 09:57:28 »
To be honest I wouldn't have taken the head off just to do this unless the leak had got really bad. Mine went away once the engine got warm but thse little things really get underyour skin and start to annoy you after a while!!

41
Omega General Help / Re: 4 cyl 2.2 nsy exhaust on start up ???
« on: 23 September 2007, 08:55:59 »
Quote
Quote
I have just done this job yesterday on my 2.2 petrol ;D...it was the very front lower stud that had been sheared off prior to me owning the car.  I was able to drill it (1/8th) and remove it with my mates Snap On stud extractors once I had removed the manifold, oil dipstick and thermostat housing.  I used new studs, gasket and nuts but put the studs into the head dry.....what its the "anti seize compound" that JamesV6 refers to??? the new studs were bright silver as aposed to the old ones which were black....i thought this was a plating (possibly zinc?) to stop internal corrosion.

Id be interested to hear how you did this in detail as ive got both the top and bottom studs snapped on no1 cylinder......was the stud snapped off inside the cylinder head? (mine are)


Sorry for the delay in replying TD.....We use a 1/8 cobalt drill bit in the end...others were just being blunted.  My stud was sheard off about 1.5mm inside the head.  Access to get a drill in is tight so i used a small air driven grinder with a small chuck inserted similar to this one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-4-NEW-PRO-AIR-ANGLE-DIE-GRINDER-AIRCRAFT-TOOLS-F49_W0QQitemZ290163008273QQihZ019QQcategoryZ22664QQcmdZViewItem

I used a new stud to guage how much thread was left in the head  and just kept checking the depth....drill too far = knackered head!!!

There really isnt that much stud in the head so i doubt if a normal easy out would have sufficient to grip on to to work.
The stud extractors we used were a set of these
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SNAP-ON-BLUE-POINT-SCREW-EXTRACTORS-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ170150717599QQihZ007QQcategoryZ30917QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
which again I was lucky enough to borrow.They really are the muts nuts.

The important thing is to get the hole drilled in the middle of the sheard stud....the extractors come with a sleeve that slides over the drill bit and is just the right size to nestle in that hole in your head  ;D that your stud is broken off in.  So in this case I was lucky that my stud had not broken off flush but was slightly sunk in
The other important thing to get right is to keep the hole running at 90 degrees to the head. The extractor is then hammered in (they are a straight rod with straight splines that grip the stud when hammered in) and the  stud is screwed out useing a special nut adaptor that slides over the extractor splines.  
I had soaked the stud with copious amounts of plus gas overnight which may have helped and I was lucky...my stud came out.
Why the studs shear I dont know...none of them were really tight, eight of the remaining nine came out with the nuts when I removed the manifold and as I said the sheared off one was not as tight in as  I thought it would be....I get he feeling that maybe it had just fractured and fallen out possibly due to a warped manifold.  There must be an explanation as its always the front studs that go.

The alternative is to get the head off and do it on the bench which would be easier but a lot more time consuming and expensive and there is always the possibility of something else going wrong during the head removal/replacement.
I did this at the start of a week off work so I would have had time to go down that route if it had all gone wrong.

Hope this helps TD and if you want any more details just ask :y

42
Omega General Help / Re: 4 cyl 2.2 nsy exhaust on start up ???
« on: 22 September 2007, 08:10:34 »
I have just done this job yesterday on my 2.2 petrol ;D...it was the very front lower stud that had been sheared off prior to me owning the car.  I was able to drill it (1/8th) and remove it with my mates Snap On stud extractors once I had removed the manifold, oil dipstick and thermostat housing.  I used new studs, gasket and nuts but put the studs into the head dry.....what its the "anti seize compound" that JamesV6 refers to??? the new studs were bright silver as aposed to the old ones which were black....i thought this was a plating (possibly zinc?) to stop internal corrosion.

43
Omega General Help / Re: TC light & loss of auto box
« on: 11 July 2007, 21:02:16 »
I thought that P1700 was a fault code from the gearbox ecu....does real tech2 enable futher interrogation??

44
Omega General Help / Re: TC light & loss of auto box
« on: 11 July 2007, 20:54:45 »
according to code list I have access to...P1700 is
"transmission control module (TCM) service request signal"
If that is the onlty code that came up then it doesnt give you  much to work on

45
Omega General Help / Re: Code reader that really works
« on: 14 June 2007, 10:19:03 »
It was this code reader that I used to read my gearbox ecu fault codes from this thread

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1181421274

My cheapo through the laptop cable will find engine ECU codes but would not read the gearbox codes as this Geniscan did, and it allowed me to clear them as well.  As for other reading other vehicles, it communicated with his Toyota Yaris but failed to link with his Mitsubishi.  I dont have access to another Omega but will see if it will link to the wifes Zafira when I can.

He bought it off Ebay from Japan and it was delivered within a week

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