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1

Omega General Help / Re: Valve Job Info

« on: 14 March 2010, 03:04:40 »

Cheers, you are the man.   I have recently, within 2500 miles changed the stat and r/r the oil cooler.  Do you think I still need to reseal as the parts are so recently replaced?
Thnx, BB

2

Omega General Help / Valve Job Info

« on: 03 March 2010, 01:01:31 »

Found out today the timing belt has skipped a beat and now I get to fix some bent valves.  Anyone have any sage advice, parts info, things to be done while its apart, links to proper info etc.  Seeds to a money tree .  Seems pretty straight forward do the vx valves take a special tool to remove them?  Any words for the machine shop?

Cheers,

BB

3

Omega General Help / Re: Where does this tube attach? MV6

« on: 09 October 2009, 02:38:01 »

Very nice, guess the jobs done.
Cheers and many thanks.

4

Omega General Help / Where does this tube attach? MV6

« on: 08 October 2009, 02:46:37 »

Alright Lads, I have done the oil cooler fix and upon completion I have an extra hose/tube without a place.  It is in the location of the rear plenum 4 where the "y" hose and the other two breather hoses attach.  It is rather hard black plastic like tubing as opposed to rubber hose. It runs down the back of the engine and along the top of the transmission.  Where the @#$() does it attach so I can put this job to bed.
Thanks in advance,

BB

5

Omega General Help / Stripped &@$%@#% Bolt Solution

« on: 29 July 2009, 03:43:00 »

Have been battling this for a while now.  Previous owners mechanic stripped the dickens out of the dreaded bastard bolt.  It cost just a few pounds $6.85 usd to do this fix and a weekend. 
I took pictures and will send in but it wa amazingly simple. 
Mate of mine kept telling me to weld on a new bolt.  Didn't like the idea of putting so much heat around power steering fluid plastic valve covers gaskets, etc.  So I went to the local home improvement store and bought a two part metal epoxy called "JB weld", a 10 mm nut that fit a 19 mm socket and some of this "freezing" penetrating oil. 
Put the oil on for a couple of days till I was able to find time to do the job.  It took all of 10 min to mix the epoxy and set the new nut over the bolt head.  Supported the nut while it cured with a chunk of packing material. 
Next morning put the 19 mm socket on a breaker bar and vou la! jobs finally done. 
Went down to the nut and bolt house and got a new bolt and some appropriate anti-seize.  Unfortunately, going to the Cadillac dealership for parts is like going to an aids colony the bolt will cost you body parts and leave you feeling abused in the backside for weeks. 
I was amazed out how simple this was to solve a miserable solution. 
I did have to release the engine mounts and jack the motor on the passenger side then pull the power steering reservoir  to have enough room to see, work and get tools in but at least I can finally cure my cooling problems by putting in the new thermostat.

Do have a question though, while doing the mounts I have noticed a green fluid coming out around the power steering pump.  This is odd as DEX coolant is orange.  I did have to get by using some standard green coolant (about a liter) to limp home one afternoon. It seems odd that it is exiting on the opposite side (passanger side) of the fill tank (drivers side) right hand drive car.  Aside from "being alien ooze" any idea what this might be?
Cheers,

BB

6

Omega General Help / Re: Steering Problems

« on: 29 July 2009, 03:52:06 »

I have just had to replace my steering arm as the bushing was shot.  was pretty simple and straight forward but ruined a pair of front tires figuring it out.  It makes an awful clank like a motor or tranny mount is broken as it lets the passenger side wheel go "willy nilly" over bumps and wears the tread from the inside so you do not notice it until you get under the car.  Jack up the car on the passenger side.  You should be able to rattle the tie rod arm and the center control arm up and down like doing a bench press if the bushing is worn out.  May want to replace the tie rods and get an alignment all at the same time.  If your comfortable splitting the tie rods its an easy fix once you have the parts.  No more than a weekend morning to do the entire job then run it to a shop to get it aligned properly.

Good Luck

7

Omega General Help / Re: VX Crank sensor longevity.

« on: 13 July 2009, 02:40:38 »

Likewise I had one that lasted four months.  Boys said to make sure I use the genuine vs a third party this time.  Seemed vary illogical that the part would fail so fast.

Good Luck

8

Omega General Help / Re: Alternator removal V6

« on: 13 July 2009, 02:30:18 »

Cheers,
Did you find a source for your problems since your Alt checked out OK?

9

Omega General Help / Alternator removal V6

« on: 03 July 2009, 05:54:29 »

Is there a maintenance guide to removing the alternator to check it out and/or repair?  I found DTM's brilliant guide on the repair but ot looks like two days work to r/r the thing.

Cheers,

BB

10

Omega General Help / Re: HELP!!! snapped 22mm union bolt

« on: 23 April 2009, 13:15:23 »

I think I would agree with Lizzy.  You are an electrician do you have a welder/machinist friend and or a plumber friend?  The welder should have penetrating oil you could borrow a squirt or two from and if not the plumber may have it as well as a small portable flame.  
I would use the penetrating oil give it its time and then get an extracter and drill bit as mentioned above.  Drill it out set up the extcracor then heat the block with the flame.  Once it is nice and toasty start to back it out.  If it wont give you really have no choice but to progressively drill the sucker out as Lizzy describes.  It takes some patience and a steady hand but you can move past the problem with confidence knowing you can rethread if you make  small error.  Your machinist friend could even help you with that or a helicoil to repair the threads if you really bugger it up.

Good luck Double O F!!!

11

Omega General Help / Re: 3 litre V6 will crank but won't start

« on: 23 April 2009, 13:05:34 »

That seems logical but why has it not given me a code?  Also, any ideas on the remedy for the other codes?

Cheers

12

Omega General Help / Re: 3 litre V6 will crank but won't start

« on: 23 April 2009, 00:52:53 »

Crank sensor is only a couple of months old.  Was rerouted as per the maintenance guide on oof and zip locked well out of the way of heat. Old heat shield material was reworked over the cable.  It is a third party brand.   battery is new and a very good brand

13

Omega General Help / Re: 3 litre V6 will crank but won't start

« on: 19 April 2009, 23:14:22 »

Good call,  when I first heard the noise my heart sank as I thought I would be bending valves and denting pistons, however the cam belts appear to be taught and in working order.  The serpentine belt could probably use a R/R but is also taught and functioning.

Thank you,

14

Omega General Help / 3 litre V6 will crank but won't start

« on: 19 April 2009, 22:32:30 »

Car ran like a champ all day yesterday. 8-)  Today when I attempted to start it it made a terrible sound and would barely crank.  Rolled it forward and wicked sound stopped however it just cranks.  Has a full tank of petrol.  I noticed some coolant leaking in the area of the starter and what looks to be power steering fluid leaking on the starter as well.
I am getting these three codes;
PO411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow
PO455 Evaporative Emissions System Leak.
PO115 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Unit.
A quick history I have recently replaced the crank sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel cap at the last go of troubles.  A bit confusing as to why I would still be seeing the 455.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers

15

Omega General Help / Re: auto box problem

« on: 11 April 2009, 03:28:09 »

I am very interested to hear your results as I have had the same problem with my 3.0 V6.  I have been given the advise that it may be a solenoid as well as the band adjustment.  
We can both keep our fingers crossed it is not the bearing.

Cheers,

BB