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[bbacon]

I think I would agree with Lizzy.  You are an electrician do you have a welder/machinist friend and or a plumber friend?  The welder should have penetrating oil you could borrow a squirt or two from and if not the plumber may have it as well as a small portable flame.  
I would use the penetrating oil give it its time and then get an extracter and drill bit as mentioned above.  Drill it out set up the extcracor then heat the block with the flame.  Once it is nice and toasty start to back it out.  If it wont give you really have no choice but to progressively drill the sucker out as Lizzy describes.  It takes some patience and a steady hand but you can move past the problem with confidence knowing you can rethread if you make  small error.  Your machinist friend could even help you with that or a helicoil to repair the threads if you really bugger it up.

Good luck Double O F!!!

[Lizzie_Zoom]

I think we're all at crossed purposes here.
What I believe kingplym has sheared is something similar to this .....

ie the hollow bolt that bolts down the 'banjo' end of the coolant hose. i could of course be wrong  .... again.

If that is the case, drilling out would be even easier to do than on a solid bolt.

I totally agree with you Lizzie, if it is hollow then it could not be easier to drill out. The only thing I would add is drill slightly under size and the knock out the remaing bit with drift, and have a vacuum cleaner held very close to the bit when drilling to collect as much swark as possible.

HTH

Mike

Thanks Mike, I thought I was going to be ignored due to maybe my stupid suggestion!


Yes I did state that a smaller diameter bit should be used, with pilot holes in sequence before, and this way the bolt is destroyed from within.  As you say you can knock the remains out, but I have found in the past that the final bit action often takes out the remains, especially if you put the drill in reverse.


EDIT:  Thanks Bbacon as well; we are obviously both on the same wave length!

[kingplym]

unfortunately i dont know any machinists or any plumbers. so it looks like i will go with your idea lizzy, but seing as someone broke into my van and stole my drill just before i was laid off means im going to hav to wait til a friend gets home from work.

thanx everyone

[Lizzie_Zoom]

unfortunately i dont know any machinists or any plumbers. so it looks like i will go with your idea lizzy, but seing as someone broke into my van and stole my drill just before i was laid off means im going to hav to wait til a friend gets home from work.

thanx everyone

Hope all goes well finally Kingplym, and I would strongly advise using a drill with graduated speed capability so you are in full control of the drilling process. Also use quality high speed bits;)

[kingplym]

sorry liz but mark dtm won.  

i finished the second cut i had already started and with a lot of blasphamy and tears it finally came out

im so happy

thank you everyone for advice etc

[Lizzie_Zoom]

sorry liz but mark dtm won.  

i finished the second cut i had already started and with a lot of blasphamy and tears it finally came out

im so happy

thank you everyone for advice etc

Oh well can't win them all, and I came in late!!

Just glad you have succeeded Kingplym!

[Marks DTM Calib]

sorry liz but mark dtm won.  

i finished the second cut i had already started and with a lot of blasphamy and tears it finally came out

im so happy

thank you everyone for advice etc

Lol.....yes it does work.

Easy enough on a hollow bolt.

Been there to many times, particularly on shite ford pushrod engines where teh ploody spark plugs rust into the head (I have even had to replace the head on occasion!)

[big-o-bob]

as i was undoing the coolant bridge unioin bolts the left one snapped/twisted of, the head span off with the threaded part of the bolt still in the block

Did exactly the same thing, but with the oil pipe to oil cooler bolt.  Luckily, for me, the rest of the bolt came out ok.

How you getting on with the cooler change kingplym?  What did you use to undo the oil cooler pipes above the oil filter - i'm having problems.  Starting to get a bit cheesed of myself now, specially when I can see the oil cooler staring at me beneath only the oil pipes....

[Marks DTM Calib]

19mm crows foot spanner....

[kingplym]

yes like mark dtm  said 19mm crowfoot. it is hard but stick with it im waiting ti start my engine at 4pm

i might post if it actually works or not

[sassanach]

why are you waiting untill 4 pm for?

[kingplym]

i was waiting til 4pm for the sealant to cure over 24 hours.

for everyone who is interested the engine started and no water leaked out, but.............

      oil ws leaking out the bottom of the engine!

i stripped the engine back down again and my worst fear was confirmed :-/ :-/ :-/

i had snapped another union bolt :-/

this time one of the union bolts that went in the top of the new cooler, happily it just came right out no unneccessary sawing or taping this time.

im so happy

[sassanach]

when i did my oil cooler approx 2 years ago i used "instant gasket" i fitted it, filled it with coolant and drove away.still going, perhaps i got lucky

[kingplym]

i was told to use speciffical vauxhall sealant and wait 24 hours. if id done it like yours i proberely have and fitted a replacement unoin by now

any one wanna drive all the way down to me and lend me a union???

ok i suppose i just have to wait til mon

 

[big-o-bob]

i was told to use speciffical vauxhall sealant and wait 24 hours. if id done it like yours i proberely have and fitted a replacement unoin by now

any one wanna drive all the way down to me and lend me a union???

ok i suppose i just have to wait til mon

 

Bad luck...It's so frustrating when you have to keep running about and waiting for parts and tools to come, when the actual job seems so straight forward - with the helpful advice from this forum, that is.  Hope you get sorted mate.